AVO Turbo Kit for Non-Turbo Subaru

[Airgne]

AVO's famous bolt-on turbo kit for the Subaru 2.5-liter naturally aspirated flat four. Included in the kit: - AVO Garrett water-cooled ball-bearing turbo - AVO high-flow bar-and plate top mount intercooler designed for high flow and almost no pressure drop - AVO Stainless steel up-pipe Stainless steel downpipe with a sport high flow catalytic converter - Pre-programmed engine management with extra injector. - Stainless braided oil lines - AVO Power air filter - AVO intake pipe - High quality hoses & Fittings - Full fitting instructions This kit will work with your oem or aftermarket headers, (as long as they still utilize the stock flange pisistion.) and cat-back exhaust, or with the stock factory exhaust system. The kit has had extensive dyno tuning to ensure driveabilty in all conditions, including hot and cold weather testing. On the dyno the kit produced 212hp at the wheels at the recommend max of 6 PSI of boost. This puts it in the 265 HP range at the engine. About 100 horsepower over stock. This makes the car very fast, faster than even a WRX as it has more horsepower and is a lighter car. This is the finest kit on the market today. Complete installation instructions, and all hardware included.


Does anyone think this would be a good invesment over a wrx drivetrain?

[Plays_with_Toys]

how much? I suspect a motor designed from the factory to be turbocharged and at that power level would always be more reliable than a bolt on kit. So if the cost difference isn't that much, I'd go with the WRX swap.

[Airgne]

$3995.00. i dont know how much a wrx swap would cost, but with parts and labor im thinking 7k

[blackgtbeauty]

S-W-A-P.

Tally the AVO up after you get a 255 fuel pump, clutch and a better exhaust versus the $6500 ECS 2.0 wrx swap.

With the AVO, the boost bug will bite and with the kit alone your going to hit the power ceiling on your stock motor.

[decke48]

$3800 for motor wiring/ecu uncut plus $2500 labor if you leave your motor prices are for eastcoastswappers in springfield, ma.
list of other swap prices
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=8383

[blackgtbeauty]

$3800 for motor wiring/ecu uncut plus $2500 labor if you leave your motor prices are for eastcoastswappers in springfield, ma.
list of other swap prices
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=8383

Not including the $200ish to make the wrx exhaust longer for the legacy and the clutch for the additional power.

[Airgne]

well im still in the middle of thinking about all of it. i will be going back to japan in little over 2 yrs, and im thinking about jsut taking my BE back and doing all the swaps there including the RHD. if you know of any swapers in the northwest region that would be great.

[blackgtbeauty]

Since your going over there wouldn't be easier to just buy a RHD BE over there and bring it back?

[Airgne]

they changed the rules for bringing cars back from other countries. right now they are not letting any RHD(or cars made outside US) into the country. that is why my Laurel is back in japan. if i take the BE back with me i can do all the swaps, and when i come back they wouldnt know the diff.

[blackgtbeauty]

Ahhh, understandable.

[Airgne]

because over there the B4 is a ej25tt. it is very quick for a awd car. this is my first awd and na car. not use to the slowness of american cars.

[blackgtbeauty]

Not use to the slowness of American cars.

:smt022

[Airgne]

here is a link to one of the most beautiful B4's i have ever seen(all but the rims).
http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m53284637

[Reason]

because over there the B4 is a ej25tt. it is very quick for a awd car. this is my first awd and na car. not use to the slowness of american cars.

What is a ej25tt? Is that something like Santa or the Easter Bunny?

[blackgtbeauty]

Zomg! hood pinz!! too much powahz! Hold down tha hood !

I bet it has headrest springs.

[auspex]

not bad, but definitely not my type of styling.

[Airgne]

i dont know the exact name of the eng, but it is a ej25 twin turbo. not offerd in the impreza's over there since they are ej20's, im still new to subies so give me a break.

[Plays_with_Toys]

Wow... JDM Rice... DUBlitzenB4

[deadlydave]

i dont know the exact name of the eng, but it is a ej25 twin turbo. not offerd in the impreza's over there since they are ej20's, im still new to subies so give me a break.

I was under the impression that all 4-cyl Subarus sold in Japan were 2.0 Liter engines or smaller.

But, to get back to your original question: What do you plan to use the car for? If it's for a daily driver with some occasional 'spirited' runs, the AVO kit might be a fine idea, since it comes with the preprogrammed EM. If you're going to the track or regularly beat on it at autocross, the swap might be a more dependable investment over the long run.

[Sarra]

i dont know the exact name of the eng, but it is a ej25 twin turbo. not offerd in the impreza's over there since they are ej20's, im still new to subies so give me a break.

I was under the impression that all 4-cyl Subarus sold in Japan were 2.0 Liter engines or smaller.

But, to get back to your original question: What do you plan to use the car for? If it's for a daily driver with some occasional 'spirited' runs, the AVO kit might be a fine idea, since it comes with the preprogrammed EM. If you're going to the track or regularly beat on it at autocross, the swap might be a more dependable investment over the long run.

The EJ25DE was offered, a DOHC pretty similar to the DOHC 2.5 in the 1996-1999 BK/BG/BD.

[Airgne]

i dont know about the impresa's in japan, but i do know that the B4 and B4 wagons come with ej25 twin turbo auto or man trranny. only the GT model, the lesser models i dont know since i have never seen one over there.

for the plans on the car will be a daily driver and some fun when i get a chance. i just dont like the fact in how slow it is. if i do the swap could someone point me in the right direction. i.e. what version eng and tranny, were a good shop in the northwest.
thank you. im still learing about subies.

[PA-Outback2000]

i was going to get the AVO when i turbo the car. the boost level is only 6psi so there won't be issues with the engine. when put on the "stock" engine, the car makes around 265HP. with intake and full exhaust it should be near 300HP. the next thing could be cams, or changing the block and pistons to lower compression ratio and turning the boost up. the final step is changing the heads. full exhaust with turbo is 300HP. changing the block and pistons and turning the boost up gets areond 400HP. cams add around 45-50HP depending where u get them from. the heads add another 40HP or so.

[deadlydave]

Those numbers are for a stock re-built engine no doubt. Before any modification, you should start with a healthy engine, body, and drivetrain.

That alone can take some serious coin.

[Reason]

i was going to get the AVO when i turbo the car. the boost level is only 6psi so there won't be issues with the engine. when put on the "stock" engine, the car makes around 265HP. with intake and full exhaust it should be near 300HP. the next thing could be cams, or changing the block and pistons to lower compression ratio and turning the boost up. the final step is changing the heads. full exhaust with turbo is 300HP. changing the block and pistons and turning the boost up gets areond 400HP. cams add around 45-50HP depending where u get them from. the heads add another 40HP or so.

Keep reaching for the sky lol :wink:

[Huffer]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

[subba]

Trust me buddy, listen to them and just do a sti swap or buy a turbo car, all your plans gonna cost way way too much and at 1 point something is gonna break the chemistry of the engine and put u deeper in the sh*t bucket.

Honestly Boosting a NA engine is no walk in the park lol but your other option would be is to go to japan find the engine & asscesories you want and crate it back to the US, bout wouldnt get owned by emissions testing?

i found out in order to run the TT engine in a usdm car you have to convert to RHD, i think you might have already known that, but just in case some of the others didnt.


Why not supercharge it? thats what i was gonna do if i had bought a NA B4 i was looking at :lol:

[PA-Outback2000]

the whole setup would cost around $12,000 if i did the whole thing, all the way to heads. i would rather keep the car, save the money not spent on a new car and turbo it. i am obviously doing it in stages though. iave seen only 1 or 2 supercharger kits out there. parts need to be fabbed to make one fit. turbos are already made for subarus and are easier.

[PA-Outback2000]

was the TT comment directed to me?

[Reason]

i found out in order to run the TT engine in a usdm car you have to convert to RHD, i think you might have already known that, but just in case some of the others didnt.



Or run a single turbo setup on that engine.

[subba]

was the TT comment directed to me?

No Sir.

[PA-Outback2000]

thanx. has anyone had any experience with the AVO kit and still is using it?

[gabsub018]

Where do you find it?

[PA-Outback2000]

xcceleration.com or rallitek.com. price is a little more at xcceleration.com

[rougeben83]

Try rs25.com There's a few guys over there that have run their AVO kits for 20k,30k, even 40k miles with no problems.

In regards to the whole swap vs. kit debate. As someone who has gone back and forth over the past couple of years between the two, a turbo kit really isn't that good of a value if you're paying someone to install it. Swap labor prices have come down over the past couple of years to the point that the labor to swap a turbo engine into your car would be very comparable to the labor to install the turbo kit (maybe within $500 of each other). The kit would only make fiscal sense if you're doing the install yourself, in which case the kit is easier to do than a swap in the first place.

That being said, there are plenty of reasons people go with one or the other, some can't do the swap due to class rules they like to race under, they want the extra safety margin/power potential of a turbo motor, etc.

What it boils down to is what YOU want to accomplish with your car and have a clear idea just what kind of power output you would like to have and can be comfortable dealing with. I know everyone would like a 400whp firebreathing GT35 monster but can you live with that in a daily driven car?...especially with gas prices approaching $4/gal in most places?

If you just want something that can get you some extra kick over a stock WRX, and you can do the labor yourself, the kit would be a very tempting option. And yes, you CAN make 260bhp from "only" 6psi because of the higher compression ratio N/A engines run.

The key to a successful kit is the ENGINE MANAGEMENT, as I have said over and over again. You absolutely need to splurge on the EM because more often that not, it's the EM that will determine whether you have a 100k mileage kit or a blown motor within months of installation.

That is where the AVO kit is really good with since it includes a LINK+ standalone EM. You can go with other standalone EM's like Autotronic (very good from what I've heard on subaru kit motors) or Motec and the like and piece the turbo kit yourself to save some of the budget for that high-priced EMS.

Anyway, I don't like to dissuade or persuade people into doing anything with their car, but you do need to do a lot of research about what options you have available if you are looking for more power.


[/b]

[gabsub018]

wow, great! thanks man :grin: ....but, just to clarify, the Kit will fit a 98 2.5 GT Sedan?

[Huffer]

Yes

[Bohemian_Funk]

I'd say when it comes to going the route of turbocharging an N/A engine like the EJ2*'s, it quickly becomes a matter of whether or not you know a good machinist that has extensive experience with engines. Specifically racing.

All I have to say is thank *insert deity here* one of my friends' uncles used to do machining for like, top fuel dragsters and crap like that or my various ideas for my Leggy wouldn't even have a dream of becoming reality xD. Good luck with the AVO kit, and post your numbers! Oh yeah, get a set of cometic head gaskets. For that matter, get a new set of the rest of your engine gaskets while you're at it. And clean your block. And get some head work done. Okay maybe you don't need to do that last one, but at least replace your gaskets and clean your block. It's a fair amount of work, but it's probably a really good idea.

[HeresMyMind]

reason gives me crap about the avo kit all the time.

i called ecs. for a wrx 2.0 swap and tranny swap is 10500. when i leave engine there IF they provide engine/tranny.

avo kit is 3500 + 500 for tuning? tops?

exhaust would need to be done to EITHER of them.

but 6000$ difference for the same hp?

yes the 2.0 can be upgraded further, but for 10500 i can buy a used wrx with half the millage of my legacy.

get whats fits ur life. ur style. and ur wallet.

-B

[rougeben83]

reason gives me crap about the avo kit all the time.

i called ecs. for a wrx 2.0 swap and tranny swap is 10500. when i leave engine there IF they provide engine/tranny.

avo kit is 3500 + 500 for tuning? tops?

exhaust would need to be done to EITHER of them.

but 6000$ difference for the same hp?

yes the 2.0 can be upgraded further, but for 10500 i can buy a used wrx with half the millage of my legacy.

get whats fits ur life. ur style. and ur wallet.

-B

You're installing the kit yourself?

I don't really see how swapping both engine and drivetrain is an equivalent comparison.

[HeresMyMind]

yes I am. If you read the instructions Its pretty straight toward

-B

[rougeben83]

I'm saying, youre comparing the cost of swapping the entire engine AND drivetrain to a turbo kit...

[Reason]

reason gives me crap about the avo kit all the time.

i called ecs. for a wrx 2.0 swap and tranny swap is 10500. when i leave engine there IF they provide engine/tranny.

avo kit is 3500 + 500 for tuning? tops?

exhaust would need to be done to EITHER of them.

but 6000$ difference for the same hp?

yes the 2.0 can be upgraded further, but for 10500 i can buy a used wrx with half the millage of my legacy.

get whats fits ur life. ur style. and ur wallet.

-B

I give you crap because you don't get it.

[blackgtbeauty]

My preference, I'd go swap, because I know if I did the AVO kit, after the boost bug bit me, that 260HP ceiling wouldn't be high enough for me.

[blackgtbeauty]

yes the 2.0 can be upgraded further, but for 10500 i can buy a used wrx with half the millage of my legacy.

That is true, then you could be just like every other WRX out there. Good luck being unique in that crowd now.

But then again you could sell the WRX after a bit and not lose out on a lot of $$$ like you could a swapped Legacy, as long as the WRX is not modded much, which seems wouldn't be the case with you.

To each their own. To me resale value isn't that important, otherwise I wouldn't be driving a salvage vehicle and have already dumped the value of the car into itself already. I'm driving it to the ground now.

[rougeben83]

FWIW, my swap cost about twice the amount of a turbo kit. But then again my swap is now a 300+whp capable Legacy with the front suspension of an STi.

People don't swap just to have the stock WRX engine.

And ECS charges a premium for their engines because they warranty the thing should you have problems with it. Source your own engine and the costs will be about $500-1000 less.

And, no AVO doesn't warranty your engine when it blows up either, so that's not a unfair comparison. :wink:

[BigLooga1]

Before getting a swapped legacy i looked also for turbo kits since it was on the cheap side. You pay for what you get, listen to these guys and go for a full swap.

I would first try to get a already swapped car if you can find one that was not abused, you will save lots o money.

If you can't find one (swapped legacy are not very popular) seriously go for a swapped imprezza, they are everywhere and cheap.

Or go to a reputable shop, get a quote but like they said engine and tranny is only 60% of the swap or else you'll probably die going to fast without proper equipment.


J-L

[xXGTBspecXx]

im buying the AVO kit for my legacy but then again my motor is filled with 800-1000hp rated parts sooooo i should be good.

[subba]

the Avo kit gets my approval, no need for tuning either because it come with a piggyback ECU, pre tuned and i beleive you can get maps over at rs25 some have them free and some you have to buy from the users.

might be limited to 6-8psi but thats on High compression.

Thats estimated 4g's. instillation is easy for anyone with mechanical sense so should be any need for labour *They have a well documented DIY included*


Later on you can get piston and rods and gaskets to lower compression and squeeze a few more pounds. it still wouldnt cost as much as a 10k STi Swap and just as much fun.

[rougeben83]

the Avo kit gets my approval, no need for tuning either because it come with a piggyback ECU, pre tuned and i beleive you can get maps over at rs25 some have them free and some you have to buy from the users.

might be limited to 6-8psi but thats on High compression.

Thats estimated 4g's. instillation is easy for anyone with mechanical sense so should be any need for labour *They have a well documented DIY included*


Later on you can get piston and rods and gaskets to lower compression and squeeze a few more pounds. it still wouldnt cost as much as a 10k STi Swap and just as much fun.

The AVO replaces your ECU with a LINK standalone management. Most of the kit's cost (around 2-3k of it) is dedicated just to the management.

Like I said, both sides have their pluses. I won't try to persuade or disuade anyone from either one, but having gone through the same path myself, I thought the swap was better in the long run for my power goals.

[GothicVash]

just to whoever said supercharge it i just had to get rid of my riviera because it sucked bits of the bearing threw the motor i would suggest against supperchargeing a daily driver for that reason car only had 100K on it and i got close to 200k on my other buicks (and not to be a lurker or anything) just my $0.02

[subba]

I just had a brain Fart.

STi Swap = 10k or more, a larg amount of boost possibilities
AVO Turbokit = 3500 with lots of limits on Boost and upgrades

AVO turbokit + EJ20 shortblock = $5500 You can buy the kit, enjoy the 6psi for a few months while you save up for a shortblock and run nuff boost.. i mean allot of boosted pressure.

[Huffer]

$5000 WRX swap with few limits on boost as long as the supporting mods are in place.
Better reliability and tuneability that relying on a piggybacked AVO kit.

[subba]

ahh and my braintfart failed....once again :p

[VIN CODE 6]

Just my .02 cents but get the AVO kit and in the mean time talk to C & G Performance. They can convert your open deck EJ25 into a closed deck. Get yourself an STI crank, rods, and pistons to lower compression and build yourself a short block. Swap in the short block and crank up the boost. The turbo in the kit is capable of more boost then 6 psi. Also check out the Raptor supercharger kit, it can run up to 10 psi (14 psi with no warranty).

$599 for closed deck mod + $200-$400 for STI internals= bulletproof bottom end.

I still like the swap idea if you can do the work yourself and have another car to drive in the mean time but it depends on your situation. Also if you live in Cali. you have no choice but to swap due to emissions.

[rougeben83]

Just my .02 cents but get the AVO kit and in the mean time talk to C & G Performance. They can convert your open deck EJ25 into a closed deck. Get yourself an STI crank, rods, and pistons to lower compression and build yourself a short block. Swap in the short block and crank up the boost. The turbo in the kit is capable of more boost then 6 psi. Also check out the Raptor supercharger kit, it can run up to 10 psi (14 psi with no warranty).

$599 for closed deck mod + $200-$400 for STI internals= bulletproof bottom end.

I still like the swap idea if you can do the work yourself and have another car to drive in the mean time but it depends on your situation. Also if you live in Cali. you have no choice but to swap due to emissions.

I'd like to know what is involved in this "closed deck mod", because close and open deck literally refer to the structural composition of the block.

Do you mean sleeving the block? That's not really a "closed deck".

open (n/a, 2.0 wrx)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/open_deck-1.jpg

semi closed (sti)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/bores2-1.jpg

closed
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/05/cdb25hr-1.jpg

[jey]

Yeah and I was under the impression you can get an assembled, new, STi block from the dealer for $1300-1600. So that might be a better option than rebuilding your EJ25.

[VIN CODE 6]

I honestly can't comment on the machine work, from what I understand it's some sort of billet material used to fill the cavities then machined down. Both C & G performance and Outfront motorsports are selling these closed deck mods for sandrails. My thought is sandrails spend most of there time at wide open throttle so I would think these have proven to be safe but I don't know It just seemed like a another good option. For less than $1000 you could have a killer shortblock. As far as the STI shortblock goes the prices I have seen are more in the $1700-$1800 dollar range and my big question with that is don't you need an equal core to exchange or do they sell them as new shortblocks?

[rougeben83]

I honestly can't comment on the machine work, from what I understand it's some sort of billet material used to fill the cavities then machined down. Both C & G performance and Outfront motorsports are selling these closed deck mods for sandrails. My thought is sandrails spend most of there time at wide open throttle so I would think these have proven to be safe but I don't know It just seemed like a another good option. For less than $1000 you could have a killer shortblock. As far as the STI shortblock goes the prices I have seen are more in the $1700-$1800 dollar range and my big question with that is don't you need an equal core to exchange or do they sell them as new shortblocks?

I know this has been done on other applications. The problem is that different alloys respond differently to heat and pressure so eventually these sorts of modifications are more prone to leaks, like in the headgasket, or even structural failure. Sandrails don't run for long periods of time, not as long as a car at least, and most are usually fully serviced far more regularly (like once every season the engine is refreshed and inspected) than a car so that application it is not that big of an issue.

$1700 is for a new block, straight from SOA. No core required. With that you're getting a completely assembled bottom-end and everything is brand new, not machined or reconditioned.

[VIN CODE 6]

Apparently it's billet aluminum so being that the block is aluminum I don't really see an issue there but I do see your point on how long a sandrail is running for, they don't get stuck in rush hour traffic in 110 degree heat with the A/C on! I'm interested to see if anyone has had this done and can comment on it.

[subba]

new block with lower compression than stock means the head will have to be modified or else it will become a bottleneck if you modify the head high chance you might need a better flowing intake mani, once you get all of that, high chance the avo would run out of puff then upgrade would be needed for efficiency.

Personally, i would only recommend the AVO kit for the Autox'er for hardcore drag + highway junkies, do your swap. (I do not support or condone illegal street racing)

[xXGTBspecXx]

i was going to get the AVO when i turbo the car. the boost level is only 6psi so there won't be issues with the engine. when put on the "stock" engine, the car makes around 265HP. with intake and full exhaust it should be near 300HP. the next thing could be cams, or changing the block and pistons to lower compression ratio and turning the boost up. the final step is changing the heads. full exhaust with turbo is 300HP. changing the block and pistons and turning the boost up gets areond 400HP. cams add around 45-50HP depending where u get them from. the heads add another 40HP or so.

Keep reaching for the sky lol :wink:
i did... and im there.. take your time a build everything.. the guy that had my legacy took it to the track and it ran a 13.89 @ 118 with no turbo... next time im in MD and at his shop il take pics of the timeslip.

yea my "eyesore" as some guy that knows nothing about my car calls it ran a high 13 with no turbo.. and im talking 1/4 mile not 1/8th.. ive already started throwing money in a shoebox to start saving for the rotated kit... :twisted: 35R anyone??

[rougeben83]

Apparently it's billet aluminum so being that the block is aluminum I don't really see an issue there but I do see your point on how long a sandrail is running for, they don't get stuck in rush hour traffic in 110 degree heat with the A/C on! I'm interested to see if anyone has had this done and can comment on it.

well what kind of aluminum? 6061? 6082? There are different composition of aluminum alloys, the mix of elements determines that alloy's properties. The problem is that the billet whatever grade aluminum is being put into a porous-cast aluminum block of unknown composition, or at most something that is going to be close to billet, but not exactly like the billet. If the billet expands faster than the block to heat, you can potentially crack a block, if the block expands faster, you got yourself a leak. Those are just two extremes but like I said, it has been tried before, but there's a reason why it's not so common place.

[VIN CODE 6]

Good point. If I get around to it I may call one of the companies and see if anyone has used it on a street car. Again just curious because I feel it's an affordable option for a build if it's reliable. I think the STI shortblock is great but $1700 isn't exactly cheap considering you will be spending an additional $500 or more on gaskets,water pump, t-belt and other misc. things since it's way easier to do with the engine out. I guess it just still comes down to what you want and what kind of budget and experience you have.

[RootedTree]

i was going to get the AVO when i turbo the car. the boost level is only 6psi so there won't be issues with the engine. when put on the "stock" engine, the car makes around 265HP. with intake and full exhaust it should be near 300HP. the next thing could be cams, or changing the block and pistons to lower compression ratio and turning the boost up. the final step is changing the heads. full exhaust with turbo is 300HP. changing the block and pistons and turning the boost up gets areond 400HP. cams add around 45-50HP depending where u get them from. the heads add another 40HP or so.

Keep reaching for the sky lol :wink:
i did... and im there.. take your time a build everything.. the guy that had my legacy took it to the track and it ran a 13.89 @ 118 with no turbo... next time im in MD and at his shop il take pics of the timeslip.

yea my "eyesore" as some guy that knows nothing about my car calls it ran a high 13 with no turbo.. and im talking 1/4 mile not 1/8th.. ive already started throwing money in a shoebox to start saving for the rotated kit... :twisted: 35R anyone??

i live in northern va and was curious as to what shop in MD you're talking about. i plan on spending some time with the people over at mach v to discuss my options with my BE and it would be nice to have another shop's advice.

with regard to my ideas, let me know what you guys think about this plan to build up to a turbo kit(whether it be AVO or custom):
i plan on getting full exhaust system within the next two weeks. mainly magnaflow parts, with custom 2.5" all around. after that i want to pull the engine and swap in a STi short block and while i'm there put in stage 2 delta cams, with the possibility of stronger valve springs/retainers. if i can find a decently priced head work i will do that as well (is it possible to find lower service costs than what TWE offers?). my question for you guys is: would i get into any problems running this set up for an extended period of time (~4 months) while i work to build up a turbo kit? any help would be great.

[xXGTBspecXx]

vivid motorsports.. they arent much into subarus. they only wanted my car to disect and learn then make it a quarter mile beast. they do more work to inline fours then anything else.. if you want to talk to a decent subaru shop id suggest andrewtech auto or agile automotive.. if no luck with them call annapolis subaru. only subie dealer i know of that installs aftermarket parts and then warrenties them.

[RootedTree]

oh wow. these two places in md seem impressive. i like how agile can help you piece together a custom turbo.

[xXGTBspecXx]

yep. good luck man.. most of my friends work at those places.. soo... yea i have a pretty hefty build to finish up when i get back to MD. im planning on running low 12s when its done. i dont want anything too powerful. :roll:

[impreza_GC8]

Your NA wagon ran a 13? Something doesn't compute.

[xXGTBspecXx]

more like something isnt being told. :lol: .i can take pics of under the hood when i get home and a vid when i get tags of her at the track....

[eekay]

I have the AVO turbo kit on my '99 Leggy and it's doing just fine. I did the install myself (With many questions answered by Sean at Rallitek over the phone) and it was really quite simple. I did it over a weekend with a friend and some beers. So far, I can't complain one bit about the performance of the EJ25 with this AVO kit. The boost is phenomenal and the turbo spools up nice and quick. The throttle position release is also extremely nice as it allows the boost to kick in nearly any time you need it at any RPM.

I would highly recommend this kit to someone that just wants that little more "unf" and will be completely happy with it. I would have gone for the engine swap (I still plan on changing the block at some point) but I really wanted to keep my EJ25 in my '99 LGT limited 5MT due to its rarity and reliability.

So, anyone that decides on this kit or is debating getting one can ask me any questions and I'll be more than happy to help with decisions and installs (As much as I can, anyhow.)

[xXGTBspecXx]

AWESOME! and it is spelled "umpf" lol

[eekay]

AWESOME! and it is spelled "umpf" lol

+1 Sorry. :)

[csweston]

I have a 97 OB, i would love to install this kit. Did you have any issues with anything fitting? On the website it says its primarly for 00-04. But will fit other years, basically im wondering if anything has to be modded to fit?

[eekay]

I have a 97 OB, i would love to install this kit. Did you have any issues with anything fitting? On the website it says its primarly for 00-04. But will fit other years, basically im wondering if anything has to be modded to fit?
No issues with fitting at all. The only adjustments I had to make were moving my cruise control (you can also remove it) and pushing a few A/C lines around (which you can also remove if you'd like.) I actually just blew my engine yesterday and I may be selling my AVO kit if I can't end up finding another BD/BG that I want. I've decided I'm going to do a complete engine swap (either an EJ22T or an EJ257) and go all the way nuts as opposed to dealing with all the limitations of a completely open deck. So, if I decide to sell it, I'll certainly let you know.

[csweston]

Sorry to hear that, what happened? Something caused from boosting it, possibly past the reccomended amount? Too much pressure? Or was it something more like a timing belt?