Third Gen Black Faced Meter (BFM) Information - 2015-01-09

[rkrenicki]

After several months of data collection, I have consolidated all of my information into a few "Final" documents covering all variations of the Black Faced Meter. I will leave the historical discussion below for those who are interested in the process, but I am putting the information I have here at the top.

The BFMs basically fall into a couple of categories. This is the list of the overall categories and the part numbers that I have confirmed for them.

A/B Type Automatic Transmission                     85015AE010
C Type   Manual Transmission                        85015AE020
C Type   Sportshift Transmission                    85015AE030
C Type   Automatic Transmission                     85015AE220
D Type   Manual Transmission                        85015AE040, 85015AE260
D Type   Automatic Transmission                     85015AE070, 85015AE210, 85015AE270
D Type   Sportshift Transmission                    85015AE050, 85015AE060
D Type   Automatic Transmission for H6              85015AE080, 85015AE090 
D Type   Automatic Transmission for H6 (UK Market)  85015AE110, 85015AE111 (counts in Miles and km/h)
D Type   Automatic Transmission for H6 (LHD Market) 85015AE100 (counts in km/h, but is shaped for LHD)
D Type   Manual Transmission STI                    ST8500066030,  85015AE240 (S401 version)
D Type   Automatic Transmission STI                 ST8500066040
D Type   Sportshift Transmission STI                ST8500066050

This is not a complete list, there are other part numbers for D-type but I have not yet confirmed them all.

Between the various categories, there are two "versions", A~C type and D type. All A~C type clusters share the same wiring, and all D type clusters share as well. Other than the wiring differences between the types, there are differences with the face as well.

The A~C type has one resettable Trip meter and is shared with the Odometer on the left side of the cluster.


The D type has two resettable Trip meters and they are separate from the Odometer on the right side of the cluster.


Both types feature a clock, however the position of it is on the Right for A~C type, and on the left for the D type. No BFM cluster has an ambient temperature display, so you will lose that function unless you have an H6 car.

These are the final pinouts for each type of BFM.

A~C Types:


D Type:


All USDM/CDM cars share the same wiring.



For those who are interested in using, or are changing from a JDM Non-Black face meter, these are the pinouts for those:

A~C Type, Non-BFM:


D Type, Non-BFM:



The connectors are available within the US and Canada from Mouser Electronics. All three sockets needed and all four plugs needed are available from them. To build an adapter, you will need the 30, 16, and 14 pin sockets for the US side, and 30, 16, and 14 or 18 pin plug for the Japanese side. A~C types need the 14 pin plug for its C connector, and the D type needs the 18 pin plug.

30 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... UwjrUHA%3d
16 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... 52bQ%3d%3d
18 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... RyHA%3d%3d
14 pin plug: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JAE ... kOMg%3d%3d

Pins for the above plugs: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G5-C1-5000


30 pin Socket: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 5-30P-D3L2
16 pin Socket: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G516PD3L2A
14 pin Socket: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... G514PD3L2A

There are also a few special versions of the black faced cluster. There are the D type STI meters (240km max speed), and a few different standard clusters modified by Tommy Kaira with a Digital Speedometer module.

This is a D-type STI meter:


This is a C-type 85015AE020 cluster modified by Tommy Kaira:


This is a D-type UK Market H6 cluster, which counts in Miles, with a secondary km/h scale:


All of these special clusters share the same pinouts as their "normal" BFM brothers, so they do not need any additional information here.

===============================================================================================================================
I have a 2004 Outback H6 Sedan without VDC that I have been slowly doing various modifications to. Over this past weekend, I planned out and installed a JDM BFM cluster. I decided to make an adapter harness, so that I can put the original cluster back in if the need ever came up.

My car came stock with the 85014AE84A cluster, which is a fairly specific cluster for this model. I bought a 85015AE030 cluster that apparently came from a 2000 Legacy GT-B E-tune. This past saturday I visited a local junkyard to grab another 14AE84A they had on a shelf, and as much of the wiring harness as I could get out of a wrecked 2002 Legacy. I would use the cluster for its connectors as well as any bulbs and as a guinea pig for odometer adjustment. The BFM itself came with a small bit of the harness attached, but the wires were too short to do anything with, so I moved the wires around on the Legacy harness to match the JDM colors. This is what I ended up with..



After carefully testing each and every pin on the BFM, I mapped out what their functions and came up with this chart:

*Removed for update above*

This was followed by mapping out the wiring for the USDM cluster, which is as such:

*Removed for update above*


On Sunday, I began constructing the harness and I implemented a speedometer converter to bring the VSS signal down to have the km/h Speedometer read in MPH instead. This would ensure that the odometer would also register miles. I did not connect anything to the Illumination control, as I figured I would just rely on the headlight dimming for brightness control, but I may go back and put that in as it seems to dim on its own after a few minutes when those inputs are left floating. After a few hours, the harness was complete:



After fitting the harness and taping it up for neatness, it seems to fit quite well.



I removed a portion of the plastic behind the cluster so that the CCFL inverter would fit properly, and attached the adapter harness. In the end, I did not use this hole in the metal support as it was pinching some of the 'B' connector wires, so they are instead just routed behind the metal brace now.



On the first try, everything looked great, the PRND321 and gauges all work fine, I found out there are some burnt out bulbs in the Halos which I will correct tomorrow. This was before I reprogrammed the EEPROM to reflect the correct mileage, the cluster only had just shy of 90,000 kms on it.



After re-programming the cluster, I decided to do some before and after shots. First, I replaced the original cluster and these is what it looks like:



This is the BFM with the car off:



And finally, the BFM fully assembled and powered on!




In the end, I am extremely happy. As you can see from the final picture, the Halo around the temp gauge is out, but I will sort that out shortly. The only other major issue I have found is that the tachometer is not accurate. This is due to the cluster coming from a 4 cylinder car, and since mine is a 6 cylinder, it shows that my RPMs are about 33% higher than they actually are. This is a minor annoyance since it is an automatic transmission car anyways.

[rkrenicki]

I was able to get my hands on an original halo bulb kit. There are 8 bulbs in total. The Subaru part number is 85091AE000.


6 of the bulbs are the larger 14V3WL made by Toshiba. These have a blue base with a yellow paint mark.


The other 2 are the smaller Type 80 bulb, also made by Toshiba. These have a black base with a blue paint mark.


Toshibas part number for the larger bare bulb is A7824. It is a 6.5mm-T2 W2.2x5.2D wedge rated for 214mA @14V, with 15 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "61 431"
Toshibas part number for the smaller bare bulb is A7429. It is a 5.0mm-T1.5 W2x4.6D wedge rated for 140mA @14V, with 8 lumens output and a 5000 hour life. Reference "80"

The type 80 bulb is physically the same as a Type 74, except that its operational life is 5 times longer. (5000hrs vs 1000hrs)

I am trying to find a US source for these bulbs, and I will update this once I find them.

[tom_ice]

pinout 85015AE100 cluster?

[rkrenicki]

@tom_ice I have never encountered a 85015AE100. What did it come out of? I would like to see a picture of this front of it as well so that I can add its details to my master list of clusters.

Since it is an 85015 series cluster, it "should" be D type.

[tom_ice]

I have 85012AE230 cluster in the car Subaru Legacy III BE / BH Wagon H4 2.5 l SOHC Air suspension ,VDC, 4EAT LHD, I want to mount cluster 85015AE100

[rkrenicki]

Can you also take a picture of the back? I think that is the LHD version of the 85015AE090, but the LHD clusters have different wiring.

[tom_ice]

pins A30,B18,C16

[rkrenicki]

Yes, that is LHD, so I will need some time to work up a pinout listing for you.

It is worth noting that since you have an H4 car and that is an H6 cluster, that the tachometer reading will be incorrect in your car. Unfortunately, there is no easy way around that, but all other functions should work correctly.

[rkrenicki]

I have the service manual here, and I am making up a pinout chart for you. I will also double check the LHD non-BFM car, and make up a chart for that model as well.

I should have it filled in tonight, and I will clean it up and post it here tomorrow.

[ecoflame]

This is a awesome thread of information! I just acquired a BFM (85015AE010) with the full harness. I have a couple questions regarding the install.

Is it worth the hassle to swap over the whole harness, or should I just repin the connectors?

Also the same person sold be the HID lights and the leveler switch so would swapping harnesses make the install of the leveler easier than with out?

I have a '03 BE MT and the BFM is from an auto, what's the best method to cover up the PRD123 since I won't be using it?

And as for the Kilometeres to miles conversion the seller had said it already had the nessacry adapter for conversion but after inspecting the harness and reading this thread I don't think it has one. But I'm not a 100% sure on what I'm looking for.

Any help you'd be willing to provide would be greatly appreciated.

[rkrenicki]

That dash harness will *NOT* be plug and play into your car, even if you rotated all of the connectors. The JDM harness is just far too different from any US car.

Since it is an 010 cluster, it has a 14 pin i12/C connector which is the same as your US car. I would recommend just repinning your US harness for it. A couple of wires will need to be extended, and you will need to split a power wire and a ground wire, but all in all it is fairly straight forward.

The UK car probably did have an adapter (Required to pass SVA there), but they are generally either on the TCU or near the ECU. Sometimes they are installed near the cluster, but not often. Without looking at your dash harness, I couldnt say for sure.

I would suggest putting black electrical tape over the PRND321. If you take the cluster apart and remove the mid-plate, put the tape over the number and reassemble, it would look pretty stock.

[Alphius]

I happened to read this thread today and I know of a fix for the H4 vs. H6 tach reading.
It's not as simple and clean as a potential programming change on the cluster, but it should still work.
I'm curious if anyone has tried something like this before? It should be possible to build your own signal interface with a microcontroller as well.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...127/prd127.htm

Again, similar to a kph/mph speedo change.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...roduct_id=126/

[rkrenicki]

Yes, that would work, but it is very expensive for what it is. You might as well buy the correct cluster to start.

I can change any cluster to 4 or 6 cylinder in the firmware for free, but reprogramming is not something everyone can do.

[Alphius]

It is pretty expensive, but it is an option I hadn't seen mentioned for somebody who doesn't have the programming equipment or expertise and mistakenly bought the wrong cluster.

[rkrenicki]

The kmh/MPH adaptation cannot be done in firmware (yet?), as the scales are different between the UK H6 cluster and all of the JDM ones... but I am still working on that.

Both Yamazaki and I personally use the SGI-5 adapter to compensate for legacy sized tires. They are great adapters.

[ecoflame]

I was looking over the harness yesterday and came to the conclusion it probably wouldn't fit. Earlier in this thread (a couple years ago) you spoke of making multiple adapter boards for the clusters. You wouldn't happen to still have one would you? Also for the odometer I don't have the necessary equipment to convert to my actual miles. Is there a way I could pull the chip and send it to you for adjustment? Or maybe pull the one from my stock cluster and install it?

If you would rather me PM you I can, so not to clutter up your thread.

[rkrenicki]

Either here or PM is fine, or even on facebook message is okay with me.

The chip is soldered to the board; if you can safely remove it, I am willing to reprogram it for you. Luckily, you have the easier of the two chips to remove. Your US cluster EEPROM will not work in a BFM.

[ecoflame]

Do you have a picture where the EEPROM is on the BFM? I don't trust my self to pull it so I'll take it to a friend's computer shop and see if he'll be willing to unsolder it from the board.

[rkrenicki]

So, while doing some more research on clusters, I stumbled across a number of Russian websites that have taken the information this thread and localized it to Russian.

I like the part on this page that "most americans" use my circuit board based adapter: https://www.drive2.ru/l/5160583/
Another Drive2 page: https://www.drive.net/l/4108954/
There is a very big thread here, with a few bits of mine peppered around: http://forums.drom.ru/subaru/t1151100253.html

[rkrenicki]

I dont, and I do not have an A~C cluster anymore to take a picture... However, it is the chip on the right side of this picture. It is the only one shaped like this one. It is about 1/4" square.

[4thgenleggy09]

I have a 09 legacy will a type c with the digital read out work in my car and how do I find one?

[rkrenicki]

The BFMs covered here are only for the 3rd gen cars (2000-2004). There have been a few people who have made them work on some 2nd gen (1995-1999) but it is not easy.

The 4th gen (2005-2009) uses CANBUS for a lot of its cluster data, so you would need another 4th gen cluster. That being said, there is a Black Faced version of those, but I do not know what is needed to make them work in your car as I do not have one to try.

[hupshall]

I took apart my D type BFM to see about getting the security light to work. Although the circuit actually exists on the circuit board, none of the components are present.



I populated these components and tested the board:



The other problem is that the gauge silkscreen doesn't expose the security LED, so I carefully cut out the underlying shape (which was a key)



I put in translucent red acrylic behind that hole and once installed behind the smoked plastic lens of the BFM, it disappears.

Here it is all complete



Seems to work just fine.

[Romy]

I took apart my D type BFM to see about getting the security light to work. Although the circuit actually exists on the circuit board, none of the components are present.



I populated these components and tested the board:



The other problem is that the gauge silkscreen doesn't expose the security LED, so I carefully cut out the underlying shape (which was a key)



I put in translucent red acrylic behind that hole and once installed behind the smoked plastic lens of the BFM, it disappears.

Here it is all complete



Seems to work just fine.

When you populated the board, what resistors, diodes, caps, etc did you use? Soldering in some LEDs is pretty straightforward but I'm not sure what to use to populate the other components which are in the circuit. For example, the Security circuit connects to what's labelled as:

R409
D401 (which goes to pin 7 on the 30 pin connector)
C415 & R410 (which I'd assume sets the time constant for the flashing?)
the sport shift light bulb socket (easy to source)
D171
TR172 (perhaps a A1674?)
CR512
R174 (SMD?)
R175 (SMD?)

Any idea on these? Can you share where you found a diagram or what you did? It would be very much appreciated. I tried taking apart the USDM cluster I took out of my car and it's a different circuit... I have an Impreza cluster I can rob parts off of but this JDM board is a lot more complex than the USDM boards I've messed with before.

[rkrenicki]

Ah yes, the security light. It was available on the european market cars. The exceedingly hard to find 85015AE110/85015AE111 BFM that has the MPH scale has a functioning security/immobilizer light on it, as does the 85015AE100 that was shown earlier on this page.

On a related note.. Do you have a MR1 thread for this car? I spy in that video.. a BFM, an s401 hazard switch, and possibly power folding mirrors (that might even be converted for LHD)? If it wasnt for the Impreza steering wheel, I would have thought you were working on my car...

[TyrWagon]

Hi! Today was arrived to my home an BFM Cluster 85015AE020. I want to put in my 1997 BG. This came without plugs, but I think that I fix by buying on the page that you have given us in another thread. I dont need the km/h to mp/h converter, here in Chile we use the km/h... You'd have you any advice for me? Any suggestions?

Not sure how to start this project, I can not always get on the SLI page but really appreciate your help.

EDT:
Just completed, carefully read your thread .. I think first of consulting you, I will read the user Barbachello thread. And I realized that there are complications in the speedometer readings signal ...

Still, I think I'll buy Mouser connectors, because the cluster came without connectors.

[rkrenicki]

Yes, that is the same adapter. They used to sell them on eBay, but I cant seem to find them at the moment.

That being said, the Dakota Digital SGI-5 is only a little more, but is infinitely adjustable to allow for any tire size that you want.

[ecoflame]

Yes, that is the same adapter. They used to sell them on eBay, but I cant seem to find them at the moment.

That being said, the Dakota Digital SGI-5 is only a little more, but is infinitely adjustable to allow for any tire size that you want.

Really.... Well that's a game changer. I guess I'll order that one instead. One of the biggest deturents in me buying new wheels is the speedo correction I'd need for 18s. Awesome!

[yaya]

Really.... Well that's a game changer. I guess I'll order that one instead. One of the biggest deturents in me buying new wheels is the speedo correction I'd need for 18s. Awesome!

You can get tires for those 18s that wouldn't change your overall rolling diameter.

(I can see where it would be handy if you really wanted to change to a different aspect ratio)

[rkrenicki]

You can get tires for those 18s that wouldn't change your overall rolling diameter.

(I can see where it would be handy if you really wanted to change to a different aspect ratio)

Right, wheel size has nothing to do with tire diameter.. however, with the SGI-5, you could run a taller tire on the 18s than you normal and keep your speedometer accurate.