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 Post subject: Ticking noise - Solved!
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 7:17 pm 
SLi O.G.
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Alright, this is my first post, haven't even introduced myself in the newbie forum, but I thought this information was good to have for everyone, and since nasioc is half dead, I thought I'd try you guys out.... Anyhoo, onto the meat and bones:



$50 and 2.5 hrs later, that annoying, sounds like a diesel engine noise my 2.2 made is gone. Here's the breakdown:

$25 for Hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA) (P# 13230)
$25 for set of valve cover gaskets (both sides)

Doing this "repair" was super easy, and could probably be done for just the cost of gaskets. Also, I am a slow worker, and had to wait for the engine to cool, so I believe this could take most people about an hour from start to finish.

First, remove the valve cover on the side that is making the noise. To do the driver side, remove the windshield washer reservoir and the battery. To do the passenger side, you will have to remove the air box and some of the air intake tubing. There are 3 bolts holding the valve cover on, and they are all in a straight line across the face of the valve cover. Also remove the vacuum line that feeds into the valve cover. You can remove the spark plug wires, but afterwards, I didn't feel that that step helped all that much. If the valve cover doesn't come off, don't pry it off, take a small piece of wood and a hammer and gently tap near an edge.

Next, remove the vacuum line from the other valve cover (unless you've taken both off). Rotate the crankshaft (car has to be in neutral), its the big nut in the center of the pulley in the center/front of the motor. Rotate this clock wise. You will see the lifters start to move. You want to feel just a little slack in each of the rocker arms.

Next, loosen the bolts of the rocker assembly evenly starting from the inside and working out. There are four bolts in the middle, and 2 on each extreme end of the rocker assembly. They all go straight into the engine block. There are two angled bolts, do not remove these. Once you have removed the bolts, pull the rocker assembly out horizontally (there are guides for the number 1 and 3 bolts) keeping the top of the rocker assembly always at the top, even in storage.

Next, find the collapsed HLA. This is really easy. At the end of the rocker arms are little nipples, squeeze this nipple in towards where it is seated in the rocker arm. If it does not move, it is filled. If the nipple compresses, it is collapsed. Use a small flat head screw driver and gently pull it out. (Mine came out very easily).

Next take a 12mm socket and place it over the end opposite the large nipple. You will see a tiny pin hole with a ball in it (like a ball point pen). Fill the 12mm sock with oil, then depress this ball using a paper clip or safety pin (something small and hard). When you depress the ball push down on the HLA so the nipple compresses. Air bubbles should come up through the oil, then release the nipple. A vacuum will suck the oil from the 12mm socket into the HLA. Now test to see if the nipple compresses. If it still compresses even a little, then repeat the process until the unit is nice and solid.

Next insert the HLA into the rocker arm using your fingers, be nice and gentle so you don't wreck the o-ring. You can buy the o-rings seperately, and might be a good idea to use a new o-ring when doing this, but mine didn't appear damaged when I removed my old HLA. (The only reason I used the new one was the instructions I had didn't say to compress the nipple, so I thought my old one was defective when it didn't take in any oil, then I got the new one to fill after a few failed attempts and it was unreturnable at that point)

Now its time to reassemble. The bolt order to attach the rocker assembly is as follows:


1---5-7---3
-4--8-6--2-

First, tighten down 1-4 until the rocker assembly is seated against the head. Next, tighten 5-8 to 96-106 in/lbs. Then Tighten 1-4 to the same specification.

Using new gaskets for the valve cover and valve cover bolts reattach the valve cover and install the battery/washer reservoir or airbox assembly. *Don't forget both the vacuum lines you removed. For a better seal on the valve cover gaskets, I rubbed oil along all the gaskets before installing them to get a better seal.

Start the engine and check for oil leaks. And you're done!

I hope this helps anyone that might be experiencing this problem and I hope this write up is clear enough. It isn't hard to do, I just wish I had known how to fill the HLA before I started.

Now for purposes of searching, I'm just gonna add some words:

tick ticking noise clack clacking hydraulic lash adjuster valve valves HLA 2.2 liter 1996


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:08 pm 
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Not to be mean or anything, but pictures would've really helped here. I have no idea what you're talking about for the most part, but I would like to fix the same problem on my EJ22



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:21 pm 
t3h ch33se
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Great advice, but I agree with perdue....pictures, and have an admin move it to the DIY category...it'll be better viewed there. Nice job though! I'll do this if I hear any more noise from mine, the oil is working fine right now (lucas added).



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:23 pm 
SLi O.G.
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Sorry about the pics, I didn't think I was going to write anything up at the time. I'll take some pics out of my haynes manual and here's a link I got alot of my info from:

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 2:02 am 
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For your first post that was AMAZING! Welcome to the site, I can see you will be a biiig help here! I think I'm going to leave this here, it may get moved to DIY eventually but it is fitting under engine/drivetrain!



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:25 pm 
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bump for top notch info



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 8:47 pm 
t3h ch33se
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galek_98gt wrote:
bump for top notch info


dont' worry about it, it won't be lost, Lee put it in his "threads of note" sticky :smile:



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:51 am 
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My '98 GT makes a clicking noise for the first couple minutes of driving if the engine is cold. It can be quite loud. Would this fix my issue?



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:10 pm 
t3h ch33se
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No, you don't have hydraulic lash adjusters. They were discontinued after 96 or 97. I'm pretty sure it was after 96.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:35 pm 
SLi O.G.
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96 was the last year.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:38 pm 
SLi O.G.
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smoke3006 wrote:
My '98 GT makes a clicking noise for the first couple minutes of driving if the engine is cold. It can be quite loud. Would this fix my issue?


ticking when cold is normal. Whens the last time you changed your oil? Try goign to a lighter weight for winter.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:19 pm 
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Wiscon_Mark wrote:
No, you don't have hydraulic lash adjusters. They were discontinued after 96 or 97. I'm pretty sure it was after 96.


If you have single port exhaust on a 2.2 it's solid lifters. The change was late 96.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:33 pm 
t3h ch33se
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SammyDaFish wrote:
Wiscon_Mark wrote:
No, you don't have hydraulic lash adjusters. They were discontinued after 96 or 97. I'm pretty sure it was after 96.


If you have single port exhaust on a 2.2 it's solid lifters. The change was late 96.


Hmmm, but PWT has HLAs and he has single port exhaust. Maybe there was a weird frankenstein crossover?



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 5:29 pm 
SLi O.G.
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Yeah. Like mark said. Single port exhaust, but HLA's. I have a midyear 96 (built in july of 95, its right when alot of stuff started changing).



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 Post subject: Re: Ticking noise - Solved!
PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:49 am 

Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:37 pm
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gonna have to do this soon...mine make a ton of racket...


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