Boosting other cars

[shazapple]

Ive tried this a few times, and it never works (yes, I know how to boost cars). I tried boosting my GF's Suzuki Esteem and a friends Chevy Impala. Is my battery/charging system just too puny, or are my cables crap? I just got a new battery and I have new cables, but its obvious they arnt 'top of the line'

[strat81]

what gauge cables do you have? bigger gauge obviously transfers power more quickly...

[GT Wagon]

It could be a number of things. First off, make sure your car is running and second that you have a good connection on both ends. Connect the cables to your car first then to the car to be jumped. When you make a good connection you should see the load on your car.... lights dim etc.

If the car is totally dead or its really really cold out don't try to start the car right away. Let the cars sit connected for 2-3 minutes so the dead battery has a chance to soak up a charge.

Even with those cheasy $15 cables at Crappy Tire you should be able to boost another car in this method. I've done it in Ottawa in -30 weather so there's no reason you should have any problem in NB.

[Sarra]

Presetup: start the boost car, let it idle for a little, 2-3 minutes if it hasn't been driven for a few hours, connect the cables...

Boost car: rev and hold the motor at about 2,500 rpm for 3-4 minutes.

Dead car: hit the starter, if it turns over, good, otherwise, give it a few more minutes to charge.

If you are having trouble or if it's cold, you might try more than 2,500 rpm. Remember, your alternator isn't making a ton of electricity at idle. You really need to get that thing spinning to make a full 14v, unless your alternator sucks. :p

you might want to buy a jumper box...

[EXP1787]

I thought you were making a reference to stealing cars. :twisted:

/uselesspost

[shazapple]

As Ive said, I know how to boost cars. Im just going to go find a better set of cables

[Plays_with_Toys]

Maybe its a matter of their car's not having a good chassis ground?

[Huffer]

Perhaps the other cars batteries are unable to hold a charge.

[Legacy4Life]

Even if the other car can't hold a charge, the system in his car should be running at the same voltage as your car once you connect your cables. If it's not, then your cables are not working or they are not make a solid connection to the posts on both ends.

If you connect the cables and you hear his car "click on" (especially if the key is in the ignition already) then you know you have a connection. But if there isn't enough power to start car it's more then likely because your connection is not providing the necessary current.

By the way, I should mention something for procedure.

When you go to connect your car to the dead battery, you should not have your car running. What you are doing is hitting your alternator with virtually a short circuit even if it's momentary. A dead battery is just that. It will try and draw a huge amount of current off your charging system. (think about what happens when you connect a dead battery to a charger, it draws full at first until it reaches a charge)

Really, you should connect the battery first, then start your car, let it run for a few minutes and then try to start the other car. By hooking the batteries together without your car running you have allowed your battery take the hit (which it can do) and not your alternator. If you've ever fried an alternator by boosting then you'll never do it again!

[Wiscon_Mark]

By the way, I should mention something for procedure.

When you go to connect your car to the dead battery, you should not have your car running. What you are doing is hitting your alternator with virtually a short circuit even if it's momentary. A dead battery is just that. It will try and draw a huge amount of current off your charging system. (think about what happens when you connect a dead battery to a charger, it draws full at first until it reaches a charge)

Really, you should connect the battery first, then start your car, let it run for a few minutes and then try to start the other car. By hooking the batteries together without your car running you have allowed your battery take the hit (which it can do) and not your alternator. If you've ever fried an alternator by boosting then you'll never do it again!

Nice tip


At first I thought that you mean Boosting a Suzuki swift (other boosting) and I was thinking...how many PSI? :lol:

I had problems getting started (when my battery died) from my Girlfriend's Cutlass (99, yes, I'm trying to convert her :lol:) and I wonder if it wasn't her car...

I use 8 ga cables (12 foot) and they seem to work fine.

[BAC5.2]

what gauge cables do you have? bigger gauge obviously transfers power more quickly...

Not true. Lower gauge (lower number) means thicker. Thicker means less resistance. Power doesn't transfer more quickly. It meets less resistance along the way, and MORE power is transferred.

Good cables should be 0 gauge.

Look at both batteries.

Hook the wires up the following way.

Dead car positive -> Working car positive. Working car negative terminal -> Dead car ground (alternator bracket works well). Do this in order, with both cars turned off. Do it in this order, and none other.

Start the working car. Start the dead car.

Subaru's have weak charging systems in general, so it's difficult to jump even smaller cars. Most cars out there draw MUCH more current than a Subaru to start.

Someone needs a jump, flag down a big truck. That's my advice.

[OUTBACKWBEER!]

I think the Subaru system is plenty stout. We went out on a Xmas tree run with some 17 Subes . When we met at McD's an old 76' Chevy truck 350 engine was dead needed a jump it was like 32*f ...one of the guys in an old EA82 wagon jumped this chev v-8 and started right up!!!

I've jumped many cars with v-8's myself no problem....!