Sarra
11-29-2009, 06:25 PM
Since I don't have a Legacy, I figured I'd put this here as it's off topic. :p Anyhow, I'm impatient, and somewhat broke, so I decided I would use the one advantage the 2002 WRX has over most other cars, a small turbo.
I borrowed a Tactrix 1.3 cable, downloaded ECUFlash, RomRaider, ECUExplorer, and Learning View.
Car is pretty simple, TurboXS shorty intake, Godspeed turbo inlet, TGV deletes, wrapped crossover pipe, wrapped Megan racing up pipe (which sucks, never buy that brand unless you hate yourself), stock downpipe and second cat, and finally, a hackjob catback (straightpipe to a Flowmaster Series 40 muffler). I installed the intake, inlet, UP, and wrapped the exhaust myself. I did the TGV deletes as well on my own, minus taking out most of the material, a machine shop did that.
Anyway. I started logging and saw an IAM of 13, and it was pulling timing in weird places. I also saw it was only pushing 12.3 PSI of boost, should be making 13.6 PSI. I pulled the stock ROM, and found a horrible 9.55:1 AFR in the upper RPM's, and my injector duty cycle was up in the 107% range. Yikes.
I fiddled with the WGDC, target boost, etc. I eventually had it so the car should have run unregulated boost. It never got past 12.3 PSI until about 3,500 RPM, then it would creep up to 13 PSI. I shut down around 4,000 RPM because there was no taper on that map.
I turned the wastegate arm in a full turn, reset the tune, aimed for 14 PSI, and voila, 14 PSI!
Then, on to the bottom end. I started by reverting to the stock map, and gradually tuned it via open loop, timing, target boost, and WGDC, so that right now, if I floor it in my car with a warmed up engine but a 'cool' exhaust, it makes 13.9 PSI by 2,700 RPM. It holds 13.9 PSI until 5800 RPM, and then starts tapering to wastegate pressure by redline.
Lowered the AFR's from 9.5:1 to 11:1, and verified them with a wideband.
I also added in more timing in the high load area of the low RPM bands, and added fuel. It goes to 12:1, instead of the 13:1 it was stock, due to way more boost (was originally making 7-8 PSI of boost up to 3,000 RPM, then would jump to 12.3 PSI by 3,250 RPM, now it hits 6 PSI at 2,000 RPM, is at 10 PSI by 2,500 RPM, and 13.9 by 2,700 RPM, so more fuel to keep temps down and motors happy). I tuned several boost dips out in the lower load areas, and removed most of the 'timers' for CL to OL transition. It was causing driveability problems for me. Now, 67% throttle = open loop no matter what. I also rescaled my MAF, and my injectors, which stock (stock airbox and everything else), were running 105-107% duty, are now in the 95-97% range, much more comfortable.
Doing this took a week, 1,000 miles of logging, driving, and 4 tanks of gasoline. I had to give the cable back, I'm very tired, and now I want to get a permanent wideband (borrowed that as well).
Future mods are going to be a fuel pump, better brakes for my winter setup (destroyed them today), and a turboback exhaust. First few times driving, it was kinda lumpy from 2-3k, but now it's a smooth rush of power from 2-6k, no bumps or dips like on the stock map. It also doesn't blow a forest fire out the tailpipe if I'm flooring it for extended periods of time. It will use more gasoline though, if I do drive in the hills, because of the lack of a timer for the CL to OL transition.
Sorry, no dynosheet, or even a guess of power output, because the nearest dyno is a 5 hour drive away. I'm also looking for a used 2.2 turbo bottom end, block, crank, rods, pistons that's usable, I want more low end boost. ;D
I borrowed a Tactrix 1.3 cable, downloaded ECUFlash, RomRaider, ECUExplorer, and Learning View.
Car is pretty simple, TurboXS shorty intake, Godspeed turbo inlet, TGV deletes, wrapped crossover pipe, wrapped Megan racing up pipe (which sucks, never buy that brand unless you hate yourself), stock downpipe and second cat, and finally, a hackjob catback (straightpipe to a Flowmaster Series 40 muffler). I installed the intake, inlet, UP, and wrapped the exhaust myself. I did the TGV deletes as well on my own, minus taking out most of the material, a machine shop did that.
Anyway. I started logging and saw an IAM of 13, and it was pulling timing in weird places. I also saw it was only pushing 12.3 PSI of boost, should be making 13.6 PSI. I pulled the stock ROM, and found a horrible 9.55:1 AFR in the upper RPM's, and my injector duty cycle was up in the 107% range. Yikes.
I fiddled with the WGDC, target boost, etc. I eventually had it so the car should have run unregulated boost. It never got past 12.3 PSI until about 3,500 RPM, then it would creep up to 13 PSI. I shut down around 4,000 RPM because there was no taper on that map.
I turned the wastegate arm in a full turn, reset the tune, aimed for 14 PSI, and voila, 14 PSI!
Then, on to the bottom end. I started by reverting to the stock map, and gradually tuned it via open loop, timing, target boost, and WGDC, so that right now, if I floor it in my car with a warmed up engine but a 'cool' exhaust, it makes 13.9 PSI by 2,700 RPM. It holds 13.9 PSI until 5800 RPM, and then starts tapering to wastegate pressure by redline.
Lowered the AFR's from 9.5:1 to 11:1, and verified them with a wideband.
I also added in more timing in the high load area of the low RPM bands, and added fuel. It goes to 12:1, instead of the 13:1 it was stock, due to way more boost (was originally making 7-8 PSI of boost up to 3,000 RPM, then would jump to 12.3 PSI by 3,250 RPM, now it hits 6 PSI at 2,000 RPM, is at 10 PSI by 2,500 RPM, and 13.9 by 2,700 RPM, so more fuel to keep temps down and motors happy). I tuned several boost dips out in the lower load areas, and removed most of the 'timers' for CL to OL transition. It was causing driveability problems for me. Now, 67% throttle = open loop no matter what. I also rescaled my MAF, and my injectors, which stock (stock airbox and everything else), were running 105-107% duty, are now in the 95-97% range, much more comfortable.
Doing this took a week, 1,000 miles of logging, driving, and 4 tanks of gasoline. I had to give the cable back, I'm very tired, and now I want to get a permanent wideband (borrowed that as well).
Future mods are going to be a fuel pump, better brakes for my winter setup (destroyed them today), and a turboback exhaust. First few times driving, it was kinda lumpy from 2-3k, but now it's a smooth rush of power from 2-6k, no bumps or dips like on the stock map. It also doesn't blow a forest fire out the tailpipe if I'm flooring it for extended periods of time. It will use more gasoline though, if I do drive in the hills, because of the lack of a timer for the CL to OL transition.
Sorry, no dynosheet, or even a guess of power output, because the nearest dyno is a 5 hour drive away. I'm also looking for a used 2.2 turbo bottom end, block, crank, rods, pistons that's usable, I want more low end boost. ;D