EJ25 needs help, but I think it's toast

[dereku]

Scenario:

Cold winter night, icy parking lot, high prolonged revs. No engine overheating, full of brand new oil. Engine was at full operating temperature before the playing began.

After playing around in the parking lot for about half an hour, parked car for about 2 hours before next time I drove it. After starting the car I made it about 1 min before the engine made a knocking noise for less than 5 second, and the engine shut off, would not turn back over. Engine would not turn over, starter was not clicking, just wouldn't turn over or do anything. Towed it home, and before stopping the car where it sits now, heard a loud snap, and felt it in my feet. Didn't know what that was.

Next day, car starts fine. Engine runs great, revs up fine, car goes in gear, moves back and forth, but now has a TERRIBLE LOUD DISGUSTING knock. Sounds like it is the top of the engine. When engine is rev'd up knock intermitantly stops making noise, but for the most part the knock will increase with engine speed.

So what am I looking at here? i'm gussing must have been a spun main/rod bearing? Tomorrow I am going to take a short video, but I think this engine is toast, and I am not sure if this car is worth putting another one in. Especially for the price of a used 2.5..

[Huffer]

Have you run the car with the hood up...it does sound like you have busted something internally. Used engines can be had for around $300...if you have the tools/time you can drop one in yourself...the broken one would make a fun rebuild project.

[dereku]

Yeah, it's too bad. I really wanted to see this engine make it to 300,000 kilometeres. It's at 273k now. Here is the video. Ignore the smoke. It's an exhaust leak after the cat, but it looks worse because of the temperature outside.

I found a guy selling an engine, tranny, axles, and struts with about 200k (he says) for 400 bucks out of an 96 outback wagon. I am just trying to verify that it is an EJ25 before I commit to buying it.

http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss174/dereku_87/th_004-4.jpg (http://s573.photobucket.com/albums/ss174/dereku_87/?action=view&current=004-4.flv)

[Sarra]

Sounds like rod knock. Motors dead, Jim.

You can rebuild it, if you want to put new internals in it. It might need a new crank.

I'm guessing you were doing cookies? I'm guessing you starved the motor of oil, or over-revved the motor. Most likely thing is you were hammering the throttle and the revs dropped below 2,000 rpm, or it knocked really bad. Either way, either a rod pounded a bearing flat, or a main bearing got pounded flat.

[dereku]

Mmm very high revs, must have pinged off the rev limiter a good couple hundred times that night. Not sure what you mean by hammering on the throttle below 2 grand. I'm sure at some point dureing it's beating the revs dropped below 2 grand (more than likly when I found I could only play in first gear, as the ground was getting a little sticky for second gear) but 80% of the time I was WOT.

Looks like I will be replacing the motor. Hope I don't do this again the next time it snows!

Is a cookie what you call a doughnut? Like spinning in circles?

[Sarra]

Cookie, donut, same thing.

And yeah, if you're romping on it at WOT and the revs fall below 2,000 RPM, you can flatten a bearing or two.

Hitting the rev limiter over and over again isn't usually a good idea either. I typically feather the throttle to keep the revs at 500-1000 RPM below rev limiter when spinning in the snow. ;)

Also, you may have cooked your center diff as well. They REALLY don't like doing powdered donuts, especially when it starts getting grippy.

[Huffer]

Max torque is generated at 5000-5500rpm, rev limiter is 6500rpm so hitting that is pointless when spinning in the snow. Lesson learned I guess!

[dereku]

Lol, luckily there is a sweet deal just waiting for me locally on an engine, auto tranny, axles, rear end, and outback struts. Maybe I won't rape her as much, but she is still going to get a pounding dureing the winter. After all, it is a rally car, right?

[evolegacy]

o.O that sounds like how mine was when it blew on me.

[httrdd]

Wow man you need to build that engine up tougher to handle your type of driving! I drive the hell out of mine too, but I know my rev limits. Feather the throtte!

[dereku]

Well actually, since I didn't literally blow this engine up, I am going to keep this one, and rebuild it so that if I do need another one I have it ready to go.

Problem is, I was out with my friend who has a 1994 Toyota Celica GT4 (ST205) its a JDM import. AWD 2.0 Turbo. I was trying to do the same stuff as him, but with about 130 less horsepower! lol

[Huffer]

Well actually, since I didn't literally blow this engine up, I am going to keep this one, and rebuild it so that if I do need another one I have it ready to go.

Sleeve the block so the pistons don't rattle as much, or swap the shortblock out for a later model "SOHC" one to bump your compression up. :D

[Reason]

Holy crap!

[dereku]

Crap is right! hopeing to go pick up all my spare parts today and get her back into shape.

[dereku]

Pickin up a 96 Wagon tomorrow without the body (basically). From the pictures I was shown it comes with the entire driveline, rear end, front and rear brakes, sway bars, exhaust, spindles, subframes, struts, you name it!
http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicle ... 174409486# (http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-engine-engine-parts-2-5l-engine-auto-transmission-rear-diff-axels-drive-shaft-ect-W0QQAdIdZ174409486#)
$300!
A couple things I wanted to ask though. He said this was an outback so...

Struts- Aren't they are inch higher than my GT?
Rear Sway Bar- 18mm instead of the 16mm in my GT?
Engine- Exact same as my GT I hope?

Anything else that might be an "upgrade" over my existing parts?

[1996Battlewagon]

A couple things I wanted to ask though. He said this was an outback so...

Struts- Aren't they are inch higher than my GT?
Rear Sway Bar- 18mm instead of the 16mm in my GT?
Engine- Exact same as my GT I hope?

Anything else that might be an "upgrade" over my existing parts?

Yes, yes and yes (sorta). The 96 EJ25 was the first year for the DOHC EJ25. It made 156hp and "required" premium fuel. All the other stuff (struts and sway bar) will just help you slam into the snow more.

[Huffer]

Actually the 96GT ECU needed premium fuel. You can run that engine just like any other EJ25D with the later ECU and it'll run fine. Some 96GT owners have swapped in a 97GT ECU and run 87 octane just fine.

[dereku]

Great glad to hear it!

I hope it runs....