Does brand really matter when it comes to strut braces?

[jockstar]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-I ... 2a04628e3f (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Impreza-1994-2001-Front-Up-JDM-Strut-Tower-Bar_W0QQitemZ180462194239QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a04628e3f)

really cheap. what do you guys think?

[StatGSR]

Not necessarily. meaning if it was a name brand and still designed the same as that one, i wouldnt spend more money on it. Other designs carrying a name brand could be better though, but that's still debatable.

id go for it

[jockstar]

lmao i offered 10 dollars and got it. cant beat that with a stick.. UNLESS it is just crap when i get it.

[legacy98gt]

how much were the asking to begin with?

[Reason]

The difference with that and a name brand is this one could be put together with inferior parts. Some of the hardware may not be zinc coated, the aluminum may be too thin etc. But for $28 why not find out for the rest of us ;-)

[d1giPhux]

Ive owned both 'name brand' and 'ebay brand' ones before on a crx.. and they were pretty much EXACTLY the same. I think reason is pretty much right on about the hardware being a little cheaper. But as long as you aren't pulling the strut bar apart every other day and wearing out the bolts / nuts and such.. they are very similar to 'name brand' no doubt.

[Huffer]

It's really about fitment and raw materials used. Higher end items use better materials and fit better first time. Cheaper ones don't always fit right and the paint/materials can be flakey.

End of the day, a steel bar welded to the strut towers connecting them will do the SAME job. ;)

[legacy98gt]

End of the day, a steel bar welded to the strut towers connecting them will do the SAME job. ;)
lol i was actually thinking of doing that, would it work? seems like it would be better then thin aluminum

[d1giPhux]

^ LOL.. WHY? you can buy strut bars for nearly nothing.. :lol: that would just look redic!

[legacy98gt]

i would piant it up and make it look good, i just think thin aluminum wouldnt work to good you now wat i mean

[jockstar]

well im an idiot, and the auction says impreza and i thought they were interchangable but i hear they are not. anyone else know about this, if not ill sell it to my dad who just got a 2000 impreza wagon for 1000 bux (timing belt slipped off)

[Huffer]

No, it'll fit. It looks just like mine:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/01/IMG_0432-1.jpg

I paid $25 shipped for mine, about 2 years ago. Paint's starting to come off so I have it removed for sanding and painting.

[Bimmerman]

Basically, if it has a hinge or pinned joint it's only slightly more useful than the weight penalty from having it isn't.

If you want a strut brace that actually will do the job properly, a single piece bar is what you want. If you want ebay junk, then get the hinged ones. No subaru aftermarket bar I can think of is one I would put on my car regardless of manufacturer.

To compare:

Single piece
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/01/mason_e36_alum_brace_01-1.jpg

Hinged bar
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/images/gts-sus-1170-blue.jpg

Which do you think actually works? Hint: it's not #2.

[jockstar]

well if i had the money to DUMP into a crappy german car i would but i dont so ill go with what i can find on ebay.. im sure the EBAY JUNK will work better than nothing. but thanks (not really) for your opinion

[Huffer]

well if i had the money to DUMP into a crappy german car i would but i dont so ill go with what i can find on ebay.. im sure the EBAY JUNK will work better than nothing. but thanks (not really) for your opinion

Cool your jets, homeboy.
Bimmerman has a legitimate point, not opinion...however I do disagree on the assertion that a "hinged" or multiple-piece strut brace isn't effective.
It may not be as effective as a solid join, welded bar, but it's still a solid connection and it's main job is to transfer torsional forces.

[jockstar]

sorry came off a little short but the point of my post was to find out if the part I found was worth it, not to find out about strut bars in general. I have done sufficient research on it (thanks to a write up in this forum). Just wanted to know if i was wasting 28 dollars.

[Yamazaki]

Question -

If the hinged tower bars are inferior because of the hinges, then why would Subaru come out with this "flexible tower bar" (flexes in the middle) that they've equipped their top-of-the-line S402 with? I agree it seems to defeat the purpose, but I don't think Subaru would have spent all that time and money to develop it if it wasn't better than the previous tower bar they had (for the S401). I've actually wondered that ever since I saw them advertise this "new technology".
S402:
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/yamazakisubaru/cars/S402/th_DSCF0539.jpg (http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/yamazakisubaru/cars/S402/DSCF0539.jpg)

S401:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/11/th_DSCF1656-1.jpg (http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/yamazakisubaru/cars/photo%20sessions/DSCF1656.jpg)


How is the first one better?

[Reason]

Well since we are playing I'll show mine if you show me yours, here's my GC8 bat on my BD

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/01/th_DSC00418-1.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/EJ25Legacy/98%20L/DSC00418.jpg)

[Bimmerman]

Just so we're all clear, neither of those pictures are of my cars.

@YamazakiSubaru- If it flexes in the center it's basically useless expensive underhood bling. Just because it's there doesn't mean it's functional. It doesn't have hinges, which is good, but...why bother if you aren't making it as rigid as possible?

@Huffer- What a hinged bar does do is tie the shock towers together to reduce fore/aft longitudinal movement (top down view). What a hinged bar cannot do is restrict movement side to side. That limits its effect quite a bit, but it is still better than nothing usually. The hinges and bolted joints are much easier to install and do work around however, the solid welded bar has to be removed before any work can be done (PITA). It's a compromise.

As for the OP- I wouldn't waste the $28 for underhood bling. But that's your call. Will you be able to tell a difference beyond the Butt-Dyno saying "i spent $28 it is 3jilliontimes better than beforez!!1!" ? Probably not.

[jockstar]

Well I thought it was actually going to be beneficial to the performance of my car by acting as a strut bar should. That's why I bought it. Not because it is underhood bling. Nice try bud. Not my style. But good info I learned something.

[Yamazaki]

@YamazakiSubaru- If it flexes in the center it's basically useless expensive underhood bling. Just because it's there doesn't mean it's functional. It doesn't have hinges, which is good, but...why bother if you aren't making it as rigid as possible?

You might want to tell Subaru that it's just expensive bling. They say it improves upon the regular tower bar and they provide testimonials from a few automotive journalists. They only provide favorable ones of course, so I don't know if anybody thinks it's worse.
source: http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/parts/towerbar/index.html

Tommi Makinen seems to disagree as well: http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/flexible_to ... inen/page1 (http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/flexible_tower_bar/#/makinen/page1)

I'm not arguing with you. Like I said in my previous post, the design seems to defeat the purpose. I don't know how it can improve cornering and driving feel if it bends in the middle. I think they use witchcraft... :wink:


[EDIT: hey, it IS magical! :lol:. They even said so in an interview on the site! (although he was joking)]

[99gtlimited]

what if that rubber encased section covered a kinked metal part (like a torsion spring) that would not only add in side to side stability but could add in transferring loads going upwards in one strut into downwards forces going through the other side (a spring loaded lever arm).

[geckoboy86]

Wow...Lets calm down a bit here people.

I am no expert but truly (in my opinion), adding any form of a brace is a plus. No matter what you are adding some rigidness. Thats gotta count for something.
I know alittle bit of this was probably in my head but when I put a strut bar on my civic, It did feel like there was less flex in the body of the car.

Back to the OP though. Does it matter. Yes and No. You get what you pay for. Quality has a higher cost. Will the cheap ones work. Yes.

As for the whole hinged/solid piece conversation. I believe a solid piece would be better. Less parts equals less weak points. It's keeping it simple. That doesnt mean a hinged one wont work.

[99gtlimited]

Wow...Lets calm down a bit here people.

I am no expert but truly (in my opinion), adding any form of a brace is a plus. No matter what you are adding some rigidness. Thats gotta count for something.
I know alittle bit of this was probably in my head but when I put a strut bar on my civic, It did feel like there was less flex in the body of the car.

Back to the OP though. Does it matter. Yes and No. You get what you pay for. Quality has a higher cost. Will the cheap ones work. Yes.

As for the whole hinged/solid piece conversation. I believe a solid piece would be better. Less parts equals less weak points. It's keeping it simple. That doesnt mean a hinged one wont work.

There's no doubt it will add lateral stiffness, but the issue with the hinged braces is that they pivot about the hinges, thus reducing or completely removing any ability to transfer forces downwards into the other strut/spring assembly. This will make you car handle flatter in a corner, yet won't actually reduce any of the load on the outside tire.

so basically the hinged braces are just helping the sway bar with lateral stiffness, but not actually moving any significant load from one side to the other.

[99gtlimited]

No, it'll fit. It looks just like mine:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/01/IMG_0432-1.jpg

I paid $25 shipped for mine, about 2 years ago. Paint's starting to come off so I have it removed for sanding and painting.

i've never seen those covers for the top of the mounts before... any special reason? just to keep it clean I'm assuming.

[ScaryFatKidGT]

If a hinged bar is worse why are all of Cusco's bars hinged? And wouldn't it be cheaper to make a solid bar? Yet were saying the less expensive/less affective ones are hinged. I think the hinging must serve some purpose.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_product ... m_bar.html (http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_product/products/strut_bar_lower_arm_bar.html)

The only 2 bars that Cusco makes that appear to be welded and not hinged are there cheapest steel shaft bar and there top of the line titanium bar. Doesn't really answer what is better but I find it interesting...

[Legy95]

Wow lots of info on this thread!
Back to the top though, will these crazy cheap bar fit a legacy? (BD specifically lol)

[ScaryFatKidGT]

Wow lots of info on this thread!
Back to the top though, will these crazy cheap bar fit a legacy? (BD specifically lol)...! THATS WHAT THIS WHOLE THREAD IS ABOUT YES IT WILL FIT!

[Huffer]

To add some more controversy to the hinged vs. non-hinged issue:
a 3-point strut brace!
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t128119- ... brace.html (http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t128119-m4if-3-point-strut-tower-brace.html)

[chuckthefuk]

Front bars are rather pointless. Compare how close the strut towers are to the firewall. No titanium/carbon fiber/steel/etc.. bar is going to come even close to the OEM firewall. However in the rear a strut bar is the BIGGEST improvement towards structure.

So many companies use different methods to create strength within the bar. My cusco front bar was a triple tubed aluminum bar that "supposedly" helped with lateral g's. Compared to my FHI carbon fiber titanium bar.. No difference. Did not affect my over/under steer.

Now with this hinged vs non-hinged. Both my bars were hinged and allowed lateral g transfers, however during elevation changes and hard bumps the hing allowed the front clip to "twist" when the proper forces were applied. If I had used a non-hinged bar the end result would probably end with cracked strut bolts.

Just throwing it out there.

-Chuck

[ScaryFatKidGT]

To add some more controversy to the hinged vs. non-hinged issue:
a 3-point strut brace!
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t128119- ... brace.html (http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t128119-m4if-3-point-strut-tower-brace.html)2 Problems i see 1.Its just tying each strut to the firewall independently its not really a "3 point" brace nor is it triangulating the strut towers and 2.The strut ends aren't a full circle around the strut towers there not even a half circle. I do like how robust the mount on the fire wall are.


Front bars are rather pointless. Compare how close the strut towers are to the firewall. No titanium/carbon fiber/steel/etc.. bar is going to come even close to the OEM firewall. However in the rear a strut bar is the BIGGEST improvement towards structure.Even in a sedan?


many companies use different methods to create strength within the bar. My cusco front bar was a triple tubed aluminum bar that "supposedly" helped with lateral g's. Compared to my FHI carbon fiber titanium bar.. No difference. Did not affect my over/under steer.Did you notice anything from having a bar to not having a front bar at all? Do you still have both? There exactly the ones I'm looking at getting.

[chuckthefuk]

Front bars are rather pointless. Compare how close the strut towers are to the firewall. No titanium/carbon fiber/steel/etc.. bar is going to come even close to the OEM firewall. However in the rear a strut bar is the BIGGEST improvement towards structure.Even in a sedan?

Yes! the sheet metal that is used for the rear deck lid and the rear seat supports are thin gauge sheet metal. Not even close to the thickness of the firewall. The rear deck lid of the sedan is not a complete "WALL" like the firewall therefor it does not tie in the floor -> quarter panel-> rear deck lid.



many companies use different methods to create strength within the bar. My cusco front bar was a triple tubed aluminum bar that "supposedly" helped with lateral g's. Compared to my FHI carbon fiber titanium bar.. No difference. Did not affect my over/under steer.Did you notice anything from having a bar to not having a front bar at all? Do you still have both? There exactly the ones I'm looking at getting.

I use to have both bars in my old GT before it got totaled. When i got into my Outback it had no strut bars and the turn-in felt the same as the GT with the bars. Although the rear end was a completely new animal since the wagon adds weight.

I do have both bars as well as my 03' wrx sedan Cusco rear strut bar that fits BOTH sedan and legacy which is currently riding along nicely in my friends BK GT.

If you want my honest opinion. Spend the money on the rear bar. Go with a fake in the front. I only bought the FHI carbon bar for the looks. I am a sucker for carbon. The Cusco front bar was a stupid buy randomly and I over payed for it. In the end my buddies cheap-o ebay bar works just as well in the front.

-Chuck

[ScaryFatKidGT]

OK then! so my rear bar is going in this week for sure! I got the super sale cusco rear BD5 specific bar from Rallysportdirect.

[chuckthefuk]

fancy a part actually made for the BD.

[B's Legacy Wagon]

^ can you post a link to that. and maybe a picture sounds like maybe a good idea

[ScaryFatKidGT]

No more for sale from rallysportdirect... its Cusco part number 659 541 A says BD5 right on it.

[Matty2Hotty]

So a WRX or STI front Strut bar will fit on a legacy? Just wanted to double check...

[impreza_GC8]

^ Yes but you might need to redrill the holes to fit your strut tower bolts.

[Matty2Hotty]

Thanks, i thought i read the thread right. I searched all over and seams like it wont clear the hood or bolt holes need to be drilled out.