Improving Steering Feel

[Soul Shinobi]

I wanted to know what tips you guys might have for improving steering feel, precision, and feedback. I'll also cover what I've done and plan to do.

I've got a 1998 Subaru Legacy L wagon that I've put Whiteline polyurethane steering rack bushings in, that certainly helped to eliminate around 80% of the free play when the steering is on center. I also have a front strut brace that helped with steering quickness, given a more direct feel on my older Subaru (Subarus all gained 200-300 lbs in chassis rigidity during generation changes around 2000 as you well know).

I was thinking ball joints would help, as well as tie-rod ends, since mine are all likely worn. Are there any companies that make sportier versions of these? I know Whiteline has their roll center adjustment kit which includes both, but the ball joints are designed for lowered cars. Suspension bushings, especially in the front, help, and so does an anti-lift kit (my friend has an '04 WRX with this and it's amazing). Chassis rigidity always helps with giving a car more direct action, and I plan on a rear strut tower brace as well, especially because stiffening the rear of the chassis gives the car a balance more toward oversteer. A rear stabilizer (sway) bar can transform a car in that respect, but I plan to get solid sway bar end links and poly bushings first to make them quicker acting before more powerful.

Also, tires, the first part in the suspension assembly; lower profile and higher tire pressure give quicker, more direct action. I keep mine around 36-38 psi (mind the max pressure on the sidewall), pressure in the rear is a bit lower to let the tail move around more in the corners. I've also been told a smaller, less padded steering wheel helps. Also some cars including WRXs have a rubber section the steering rod going to the rack, for which there are aftermarket replacements.

Any other ideas? Also, what might be some good alignment specs to help with steering quickness and feel? I currently have -1.0 degrees camber in the front and -0.2 degress toe out in the rear, which helped a ton for front end grip and a bit for getting the tail to move out in a very controlled manner.

[jey]

Don't forget the tire design itself can significantly alter steering feel. My 205/55 16 Kumho MXs feel way different than my 205/55 16 Bridgestone G009s...

[ouch1011]

Take care of any old/worn suspension parts/bushings first. Maintenance before modification, always, and in every aspect.

[wiisass]

Add caster. The moment created at the contact patch is a function of the pnuematic and mechanical trail. Pnuematic trail is a function of the tire and based on the slip angle and load on the tire. Mechanical trail is a function of caster and suspension design. It is the point that the steering axis intersects the ground. The ways to affect this are either changing the suspension geometry which would mean changing the location of the lower ball joint or the way the strut attaches to the knuckle or you could simply adjust caster. Adjusting caster with the lower arm will move the ball joint forward and the steering axis will intersect the ground further from the center of the contact patch generating a greater moment about the axis. You could also adjust at the upper strut mount if you have caster/camber plates.

You just have to be careful and not add too much caster. Caster also affects your steer camber gain. Also, too much caster can cause the wheel to lock at high steering angles and if the moment is too great to overcome with the steering wheel. But I doubt this will be an issue with the car, that's more of a design concern than an adjustment issue.

The last thing, as was said, would be changing the wheel diameter. This is where you feel the force. A smaller wheel will increase the force feedback at the wheel. But you wouldn't want to go too much smaller than stock.

I would start with adjusting caster after you replace the wear components in the suspension.

[StatGSR]

Sounds to me all you need to do is bypass/delete your power steering.....

[wiisass]

Sounds to me all you need to do is bypass/delete your power steering.....

If that's not a joke, that's retarded.

[StatGSR]

^ its not a joke, removing the power steering improves steering feel and feedback substantially. Power steering dulls everything that happens at the road to what happens at the wheel. granted you may need to man up a bit in parking lots, but its really not big deal.

if your talking about pulling the belt of the PS pump and leaving it in, then yes, that is retarded... :smt006

[chuckthefuk]

Not an "upgrade" but definitely a good maintenance idea. Between your steering rack and your steering wheel there is a steering column. They call the column "intermediate shaft" its basicly 2-U-joints that allow the steering column to bend at a certain degree. These shafts become stiff over time and especially if you don't drive your car constantly.

What you need:
-PBlast or any penetrating fluid
-Rubber mallot

What you do:
-Spray the U joints down with some penetrating fluid.
-Let the fluid sit for 30 mins
-Knock/bang the U joints lightly with the rubber mallot.
-Repeat this steps a few days later and viola! No more notchy/stiff steering.

Like I said not an upgrade but a damn good maintenance to improve your steering response.

-Chuck

[Soul Shinobi]

Add caster.

...

The last thing, as was said, would be changing the wheel diameter. This is where you feel the force. A smaller wheel will increase the force feedback at the wheel. But you wouldn't want to go too much smaller than stock.

I would start with adjusting caster after you replace the wear components in the suspension.
Good advice. Basically, an Anti-Lift Kit would be a step in the right direction. My wheels do happen to be smaller than stock (see my signature).




Sounds to me all you need to do is bypass/delete your power steering.....If that's not a joke, that's retarded.
I knew there was a technical reason to use a power steering rack unpowered, but I don't recall what it was. Care to elaborate?



Chuck, good advice, thanks. I know people like to replace that joint too since it's rust prone, but it's fairly expensive.

[ScaryFatKidGT]

I need this really bad also, I have so much on center slop at highway speeds its ridiculous. What other bushings are there besides steering rack bushings that will help and can be replaced with out tearing the whole car apart?

So new tie rods/ball joints ect. wont help much unless they need replacing?

My tires shouldn't be a problem I have stock sized Contiextremecontacts. Has anyone noticed a big improvement in handling response going to 17" wheels with 45 series tires? I think 16's should be fine. I have noticed true race cars don't even have that extreme of low profile tires.

[Soul Shinobi]

I remember you mentioning your car before. Have you had the alignment assessed? You may be able to get an alignment shop to check the car our for little or no money, let us know if you do. Also, I wonder if your steering wheel was taken off in the past and not put back on well, may be work checking, along with the steering u-joint under the hood. Even bar wheel bearings may cause an issue, but usually those are pretty noisy/scary.

[ScaryFatKidGT]

I'v taken it to a shop, I had a rear wheel bearing out making my car do weird shit in hard cornering and my brake caliper was seized causing the wheel to shake. I have had both of those fixed and the problems associated with them have stopped but my wheel still has a lot of slop, especially on a road surface that slopes to one side its very hard to keep the car going strait. How ever under 45mph and when cornering more than about a 8th of a wheel turn either way the slop isn't noticeable.

[Soul Shinobi]

Your other brake calipers will need to be replaced too, most likely.

I just got an inspection today, they told me there's a lot of play in my steering U-joint, which I suspected.