Lots Of Codes, CEL, Rough Idle, Engine Dies, Etc.

[wantahertzdonut]

Driving yesterday my CEL comes on, and when I get to the next stop light the engine starts idling rough. Accelerating is fine, cruising is fine for a little bit.

Then I start driving home on the highway, the engine starts losing power in spurts (3krpm to around 1500, then back up). Limping home off the highway it sputters more and more before ultimately dying and not wanting to restart.

Today it will start and run, but idles fairly high. CEL is still on.

Scanner reads P0201, P0202, P0203; injector circuit open on cylinders 1, 2, and 3 respectively. Also throws P0505, idle control system malfunction.

I'm currently working on getting the intake pipe off the throttle body to clean (it's putting up quite a fight), and will also clean the but I also noticed this "buzzing" coming from behind the engine. Here's a video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=221lHoU0VV0). A friend mentioned it may be a stuck solenoid for the fuel pump? Does this car have one? If so, where is it?

In reference to this post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?p=173188#p173188), I don't notice any clicking from the IAC. Is this something that can be cleaned up, or does no clicking mean its shot?

Where is the MAF on these cars? I'm sure it's a familiar item, but I figure it should be cleaned up going by some of the other posts I've read. I just want to make sure I'm cleaning the right thing.

I'm new to this car and dealing with EFI issues, so any help is appreciated. I'm checking the PO's maintenance records to see if it's due for a tune up, but I don't think that would cause the sudden problems I'm having. This all came on within 10 miles of driving. I will also check the fuel filter.

[green97gt]

wow, the open circuit on the injector codes are kind of puzzling.

my first thought on that vid would be the IAC, but since you say youve already eliminated that i dunno, it is hard to tell where its coming from, if you can get a pic of what it is buzzing would help.

theres not to much back there. sounds like you should be able to ID it by touching things untill you find whats vibrating like mad.

the MAF is on the intake tube right by the air filter

[d1giPhux]

Here is the MAF.. doesn't really sound like its a MAF problem.. but it very well could be. Might want to try getting some $7 maf cleaner from autozone or something and least give it a go:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/03/MAF-1.jpg

What is the car like when just idling? How about when idling and then you push the gas quickly? Give us a bit more info about the RPM's / idle and such.

[wantahertzdonut]

Thanks for the MAF pic, that's what I thought it was but I like to be sure.

I don't think I can rule out the IAC, I thought it was supposed to "click" but it's not. Is there a better way to test this thing? I don't want to just buy one and try a replacement since they're pretty spendy.

As for finding the buzzing, I'll have another go with finding what it is. I just couldn't get my hand on anything and feel it. It'll just have to sit for a few days, I'm going on a trip tomorrow and won't be be able to take the car.

[d1giPhux]

Try to grab a used IAC off someone here on the boards parting out a car.. or someone else parting out a car somewhere. I'm sure you could get one for close to dirt cheap.. and at least it would give you a shot in the dark. Sounds like it COULD be that as well.

Here is a thread i found with info about testing an IAC and maybe some other stuff. I didn't read the whole thing through yet:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/sho ... adid=17267 (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=17267)

[jey]

If Injector 4 is the only one that doesn't have a "circuit open" why not try swapping injector 4 with, say, injector 3, and see if the injectors are failing? Or maybe it's a wiring problem with those 3 injectors?

[ouch1011]

This is an automatic right? If so, my auto used to make a similar type noise, but MUCH quieter and only if I stepped on the gas with the key off.

Definately first step is to find the noise and determine why it is making that noise. There is pretty much no way that 3 injectors all failed at the same time. And the IAC won't cause the engine to lose power.

I was just testing my IAC last night, I took it off the car to test it (the electrical part). Unless the 2.2 IAC is vastly different (I think the only difference is that it doesn't have the wax valve/coolant lines going to it) it doesn't click.

[wantahertzdonut]

Ouch1011- Yes, it's an auto. What was making the noise on your car?

Without having looked at the fuel system (yet), is there something common to cylinders 1 2 and 3 that could fail and exclude cylinder 4? I would assume a fuel pump problem, but is there anything controling the fuel pump that could also fail?

I'll be busy with this tomorrow afternoon but will check on here before going out to the garage, and will check back when possible.

[green97gt]

A fuel pump wouldnot cause open cirquit on 3 of 4 injectors....

Have you reset your ecu and checked iff the fault is still present? If 3 of your injectors still have open circuits I would find some junk yard ones and try swapping them around to eliminate possabilities. If you swap the injector with a good one and still have open circuits it's either your wireing, ecu, or a ground.

Have you checked if the injector is getting power from the ecu? Do so and you eliminate one half the circuit. He'll use an led and resistor to make yourself a noid light. Put it in the injector connector, if it flashes your circuit is working and the injector is faulty.

Start ruling stuff out. Don't just guess.

[wantahertzdonut]

By resetting the ECU, you mean clearing the codes on the car? I can try that.

I'll check around to see what I can get out of a junkyard this week. What size resistor are you talking about for making a noid light?

[green97gt]

i dont remember, there are calculators online, i dont know the ohms.

a typical LED is 3 volts.

so you need a resister to dial down the cars voltage from 12V.

or you can go buy and cannabilize some of those autopart store LED strips or something.

[wantahertzdonut]

Gotcha. I'll see what I can loot from our parts bins at work.

For what it's worth, clearing the code made it run fine, and disconnecting the computer for an hour still brought up no problems, I drove the car to operating temp and it didn't act up either time. Any idea how long it takes for the computer to run its self diagnostic and start throwing codes again?

[green97gt]

depends on driving styles, and what test its going to run.

sometimes its been 200 miles for me.

[wantahertzdonut]

Gotcha. I'll just drive my other car to work and keep the Subaru near to my house until the CEL comes back on.

[LSiTo5Revo]

Use a stethiscope to locate your noise maker. the one with the rod.

[wantahertzdonut]

Per 97GT's suggestion, I cleared the ECU and also cleared the codes in the computer. I then cleaned out the MAF and the IAC valve. The IAC had enough crap in it to make the cleaner come out dirty from one of the ports. I ran the car for about a week with no problems. To be on the safe side I changed the plugs and wires since it's about time for those to go too. Been running constantly for several weeks and no CEL.

So I'm going to chalk this one up to a dirty IAC valve that must have been stuck. Thanks for your help!