Soul Shinobi's Regashii Bomber; 7/25/11 New Parts

[Soul Shinobi]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

1998 BK Legacy L Wagon AWD 5MT 204,526 miles rebuilt, currently 245,549 mi (41,023 mi on engine). Cost me $300 on Craig's List, it ran and drove. The name Regashii comes from the entertaining Japanese Subaru commercials (here's (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7y5-V2SWDGM) a Bruce Willis one for you) when they pronounce "Legacy" with a thick accent, and the Bomber comes from a badge that my friend gave me from a mountain bike suspension fork, I put it just below "Legacy" on the hatch. I think the term bomber suits the wagons well. Check out the detailed backstory here (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=234972#p234972).

It's a bit rusty (I think the previous owner had let it sit for a while. Under a waterfall. On a mound of salt.) so I don't intend to put much into it, mostly just fixing things and applying mods that are experimental or that I can remove without too much trouble later.



Mods and Upgrades:

Engine and Performance:
-Unorthodox Racing lightweight underdrive crank pulley
-boosted alternator voltage half a volt (thread (http://www.scoobymods.com/raise-your-alternator-voltage-t10547.html))
-custom grounding kit

Chassis, Suspension, and Handling:
-rear camber bolts
-2005 (I think?) STI struts and springs, slotted/shimmed/saggy butt spacered
-Cusco rear lower arm bar (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=232273#p232273))
-Whiteline quick-release rear strut brace KSB586Q (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=230246#p230246))
-front SPC camber bolts (-1.0° camber front, -0.2° toe rear; thread (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16072) on my deliberation over alignment specs)
-195/60R14 tires (making the car 13mm/0.55" lower, and effectively changing final gear reduction from 3.900 to 4.072)
-Whiteline steering rack bushings (thread (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=15820) on how much of a pain that was; thread (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=17608) on my ideas on steering feedback)
-eBay front strut brace

Drivetrain:
-STI rear shifter bushing (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=257717#p257717))
-Energy Suspension shifter bushing (cut in half to ease install, still kind of a pain)
-Kartboy comfort rear diff outrigger bushings (installed in reverse position to lessen effect; got too much vibration)

Brakes:
-Axxis Ultimate brake pads, Centric rotors
-ATE Super Blue DOT4 brake fluid

Exterior:
-Blacked out and cleared 1-piece headlights from a '95
-LED rear corner marker, and high mount and center stop lights (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=257717#p257717))
-replaced driver's 21" wiper with a 22" wiper
-offset license plate covers left side fog light recess
-custom corrugated plastic undertray
-custom grill
-replaced 15" rear wiper with an 18" one (it has to actually be 18", some 18" blades measure a little more and won't fit)
-$20 amber fog lights (thread/post (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=13570&p=181289#p181289) for custom wiring to factory switch)
-painted wheel covers bronze (post (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12067&p=202516#p202516))
-cleared front corner lights (thread/post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=3512&p=203526#p203526))
-added BOMBER badge from Marzocchi mountain bike suspension fork
-swapped gold LEGACY badge for silver from the original hatch
-removed Outback (hatch is from one) and AWD badges

Interior:
-improved AC efficiency by insulating AC return line (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=257808#p257808))
-2004 WRX MOMO steering wheel (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=257717#p257717))
-cool blue LED interior lights (except map lights) (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=257717#p257717))
-Scangauge II added (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=249384#p249384))
-AUX audio cable wired to stock head unit (thread (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=14168))


Future Mods and Upgrades (in the order I'm likely to do them):
-custom lower A arm brace (cost of steel tubing)
-custom fender braces (cost of steel stock)
-lock down rear subframe (~$0-40, considering welding)
-transmission crossmember bushings (~$35)
-endlinks front and rear, rear sawybar (~$200? find used so hard to say)


Things I want to do but I'll likely save for a less rusty chassis:
-Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit (~$200)
-Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit (~$200)
-MSD coil with NGK plug wires (~$160)



Repairs* and Additions:
*turning a blind eye counts as a repair

Engine and Performance:
-welded the exhaust hanger that the above connects to (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=232273#p232273))
-replaced timing and accessory belt, radiator, and AC condenser after the front end crash (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=210750#p210750))
-replaced exhaust hanger under transmission (old one broke)
-replaced rusted-to-pieces fuel filler pipe (its plastic shield holds dirt against it, you might as well bury it in the ground; go clean that out!)
-replace AC compressor clutch, got AC charged
-tune up: new OEM spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, and air filter
-new OEM radiator cap

Chassis, Suspension, and Handling:
-replaced steering u-joint (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=232273#p232273))
-repaired front frame with hammering, new upper radiator support (welded in), and new bumper beam and foam after the front end crash (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=210750#p210750))
-ignoring that the rear right strut is blown
-ignoring that the front left spring is missing half a coil on the top
-did I mention it came with rusty GR-2's? :smile:

Drivetrain:
-installed factory pitch stop after the STI Group N one broke in the front end crash (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=210750#p210750))
-factory Momo leather shift knob (from a BE Legacy GT, was ripped but I sewed it)
-Exedy OEM clutch kit
-installed shifter center return spring (they always rust off)

Brakes:
-front brake calipers replaced with remanufactured units (after 2 returns they don't leak now too! Don't buy A1 Cardone!)
-disassembled and regressed everything

Exterior:
-headlights polished (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=249384#p249384))
-mud flaps removed in the interest of aerodynamics, saved 3.7 lbs due to dirt behind them too
-did an extremely crappy job painting a few rust spots, including hitch and windshield wiper arms
-offset license plate and used duct tape to cover driver's side factory fog light recess
-replaced hood and foglights, and added stitches to bumper after the front end crash (post (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=210750#p210750))
-fixed driver's door lock
-replaced rear wiper motor
-fixed hatch opening mechanism
-new hatch came with factory wing
-replaced front passenger window and rear hatch (some asshats smashed them)
-stitched up driver's side corner of the front bumper with zip ties (8 hour job in two sittings! See pic in my next post)

Interior:
-installed factory tweeters
-replaced center roof lamp assembly


Future Repairs and Additions (in the order I'm likely to do them):
-repair non-conducting line on rear window defroster ($10)



Other Links:
NES version of my ride thread (http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16890)
Blog! My friends and I dicking around, basically. (http://ynsproduction.blogspot.com/)
My Research on Casting Polyurethane Bushings (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041914)
Part Weight List (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=204036#p204036)
Fuel Economy Log (http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log.php?vehicleid=3321)
Check My Ride (http://www.checkmyride.com/people/soulshinobi)


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

[subie/legacy]

Nice to see someone fixing a wagon up to help it live on.
I'll be watching for updates

[Soul Shinobi]

Cleared my corner lights today! Had to get my oven around 225 degrees to get them apart. I had it up to 250 at one point and warped one lens a bit. The second one was way easier to take apart once I found that the lens slides forward (forward from the perspective of them being installed in the car). Don't forget to remove the little screws on the back first. I warmed them up again when putting them back together to promote the glue resealing.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/04/clear_corner_01-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/04/clear_corner_02-1.jpg

[Soul Shinobi]

Ugh, despite my -1.0 degree camber alignment in front and 38/36 F/R tire pressure they're wearing more on the outside. All my tires are about 7/32nds on the outside ridge and 9/32nds on the inside. Guess I have to increase the pressure.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs419.snc3/25261_411337442526_681937526_5657039_2566880_n.jpg



Also, I started weighing a few parts. If anyone else knows of other part weight compendiums, let me know.

Part weights are in grams (pounds):

Engine and Engine Bay:
'97 (?) to '99 style intake (torque box type, w/ clamps, the two short hoses and T connector) (removed) 1,633 g (3.600 lbs)
steel brackets supporting '97 (?) to '99 style intake (w/bolts) (removed) 1,159 g (2.554 lbs)
'90 to '96 (?) style intake (w/ clamps and short hose only) (installed) 847 g (1.866 lbs)
air box (w/MAF and filter) 1,496 g (3.298 lbs)
alarm speaker (removed) 513 g (1.130 lbs)
custom 13 piece grounding kit (installed) 486 g (1.071 lbs)
accessory belt cover (w/nuts and bolts) (removed) 298 g (0.656 lbs)
washer fluid reservoir (empty, w/two pumps) 548 g (1.208 lbs)
washer fluid only (3.785 liters, 1.000 US gal) 3,577 g (7.888 lbs)
power steering pulley 439 g (0.968 lbs)
unorthodox racing ps pulley 207 g (0.456 lbs)

Chassis, Suspension, and Handling:
T135/70D16 doughnut spare tire (rotating mass, for car with 185/70R14 stock tires) ~12,700 g (~28.0 lbs)
185/70R14 tire (each, rotating mass, ~30% tread, typical cheap tire) ~6,600 g (~14.5 lbs)
195/60R14 tire (each, rotating mass, ~50% tread, typical cheap tire) ~7,700 g (~17.0 lbs)
five spoke 14" alloy Subaru wheels (each, rotating mass, w/ valve stems, w/o center caps) ~5,900 g (~13.0 lbs)

Drivetrain:
hub caps (each, rotating mass) 512 g (1.148 lbs)
pitch stop (removed, not counted because I don't have the weight of the STI replacement) 264 g (0.582 lbs)

Brakes:

Exterior:
front mud flap (each) (removed) 226g (0.496 lbs)
rear mud flap (each) (removed) 314 g (0.689 lbs)
dirt behind front mud flap (each) (removed) 294 g (0.649 lbs)
orange corner reflector (each, removed x2 during clearing the corner lights) 12 g (0.026 lbs)
corner light (each, w/o orange reflector) 226 g (0.500 lbs)
headlight (each) 1,404 g (3.094 lbs)
one-piece style headlight/corner light (each) 1,412 g (3.112 lbs)
difference between two-piece and one piece light setup (each side) -230 g (-0.507 lbs)

Interior:
2004 WRX MOMO steering wheel (installed) 1,791 g (3.948 lbs)
2004 WRX MOMO steering wheel air bag (installed) 1,164 g (2.566 lbs)
stock steering wheel (removed) 2,062 g (4.542 lbs)
stock steering wheel air bag (removed) 1,449 g (3.192 lbs)
glove box steel plate (removed) 1,112 g (2.450 lbs)
rubber shift knob (removed) 78 g (0.170 lbs)
leather shift knob from 3rd gen GT (installed) 202 g (0.444 lbs)
owner's manual 352 g (0.776 lbs)
owner's manual case (w/other papers it comes with) 305 g (0.672 lbs)
rear cargo net 238 g (0.524 lbs)


Removed - 9,993 g (22.0308 lbs) added + 4,490 g (9.8988 lbs) net = - 5,503 g (12.1320 lbs)

EDIT: additions to this list in process...

[boricuajr]

niiice
I need to start a thread for mine too
nice work on the lights

[Soul Shinobi]

A few updates. Installed a front air dam (pic pending) and replaced the broken exhaust hanger that connected to the transmission. I added more parts to my part weight list above. I've been trying to take more pictures since it makes the whole forum experience more enjoyable.

Other updates copied from my posts in "What have you done to your car today? (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12067)":



This is the part of replacing my AC compressor where I turn the whole garage upside-down looking for TWO LITTLE O-RINGS. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

EDIT: Found them, they were in car parts box 4 of 10. They should have been on the work bench though. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

EDIT2: This is the part of replacing my AC compressor where I turn the whole garage upside-down looking for the spare AC belt I had. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

EDIT3: #%$& the ports are smaller on this compressor--IT'S THE SAME MODEL, HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE? WHO DOES THAT?! Time to make a WTB thread of AC lines... If they changed the other end of the lines I'm gonna be rip-$#!+.

I managed to swap the clutch assembly on the AC compressors, gonna see if I can get the original to work first (it doesn't seems as bad as I have thought). Thanks for the offer, I'll keep it in mind if it doesn't work out.

God damned front brake calipers are leaking by the piston seals, one's really bad. Don't know if I should go through the massive pain of returning them or just hope that the seals will swell a little with time. Screw A1 Cardone parts. Wrote them a straight forward review (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/A1_Cardone/Brake_Caliper/1998/L/4_Cyl_2-dot-2L/A119B1947.html?loc=Front%2C+Driver+Side&tlc=Brakes%2C+Suspension+%26+Steering) (may not be up yet) at Auto Parts Warehouse (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/).

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

I was in Lowe's yesterday walking past the spray paint and saw the color I MEANT to paint my hub caps. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

This gunmetal:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/04/swatch2520gunmetal-1.jpg

Not so gold as what I used:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

Working under the front of my car a bit today to straighten the bumper so I can install a sweet front lip I found and cut up to fit my car. I noticed that the top half coil on the front left spring is missing (at inspection I was told it's just missing an inch; it's more like 5). Also, I'm pretty sure that the front left strut is the one made for the front right because the label's on the back side of it and the lower perch faces differently, but the brake line bracket is on the correct side.

[quote="Apr 12, 2010 11:23 pm, Soul Shinobi":2jabxdg7]So one of my fog lights is cracked, and the other is missing pieces yet it still works. I wanted to get some laminate for car lights to see how long these cheap fogs would hold up. When I called VIP they said they didn't have them, and when I called Pepboys the lady says "No, BUT my friend wanted to do the same thing and wound up buying some laminate for paper at Staples, and that worked." "It actually stood up to the heat?" I asked. "Yeah, and the weather. It's been on his car for a year and a half now."

Fantastic, just got a 5 pack of 6.22" x 4.33" laminating pouches by Fellowes, which will fit my rectangular 5.5" x 3" fog lights. They were $8, which is a bit much considering these lights were $16 from Harbor Freight, but it's worth it for the sake of experiment (and I can do two sets of lights). Despite having adhesive on one side, these say they can be used with a laminator also (not to be confused with the type that require a laminator), which may be why they can stand the heat. I'll keep you posted.
UPDATE on this. The laminate holds up fantastic, it's been through heat and rain. Here's a pic of it over my fog light that's missing part of the glass. You can see a couple drops of water on the laminate where the glass is gone. :razz:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/[/quote:2jabxdg7]

[fwa2500]

Ugh, despite my -1.0 degree camber alignment in front and 38/36 F/R tire pressure they're wearing more on the outside. All my tires are about 7/32nds on the outside ridge and 9/32nds on the inside. Guess I have to increase the pressure.

it is my opinion that the 14" wheels and tyres are just too small for our cars, i went through three set that all went nearly bald on the edges despite trying different pressures before i switched to my 16" WRX wheels and havent had any wear issues since. its one thing to have those skinny things on a small and light car like the mid-'90s honda civic, but on our cars, which are significantly heavier, the dont hold up as well. the 16s also provide a TON more grip, even though they are heavier. besides, they also look better :grin:

[Soul Shinobi]

What width did you wind up running? My tires are 195/60R14's, 10mm wider and 26mm lower from ground to top than the 185/70R14 stock tires. I'm pretty much sticking with the 14's just because of cost and weight. Mostly cost. :razz: Now I've got the pressure set to 41F/38R.

I really need a rear strut brace to even out the handling. Then some sway bar endlinks, and after sharpening up the sway bar action I'll decide what size rear bar to upgrade to. I don't mind the lower cornering limits of the smaller tires, I don't want to find myself doubling the speed limit in any corners!

[fwa2500]

i always had the 185/70s before the 16s which i have 205/55/16s on though i would like 215/50/16 but they are harder to find what you want in that size for a reasonable price. i really think you would like the significant increase in grip you get with the 16s. staying with the 14s will really limit how much handling performance you can squeeze out. the price isnt that bad either, you can pick up a set of '02-04 wrx wheels with tyres for as little as $150 if you look hard enough

[Soul Shinobi]

Updates on my little crash copied from my posts in "What have you done to your car today? (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12067)":


Hit a tree at 2 AM... Dead center front. No idea how the engine is, it ran for a bit then ate the accessory belts, sucking one into the timing belt. It'd be nice if I just need a radiator and belts (and a ton of body work). More pics later, I haven't slept since it happened, it's 8 AM right now. Ffffuuuuuu...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

It was low speed, and the car even drove half a mile before dying, so I'm a little hopeful. I just hope the timing didn't jump a lot. I also flooded the engine trying to get it started for four hours and got a backfire that blew the airbox apart. I guess I'll take off the timing cover and see if everything's aligned, then decide if I should take the heads off or not. This is a pretty rusty chassis, I could settle for picking up another cheap Subaru rather than repairing or swapping the engine, not that I can really afford either. I was being duuuummmb.

EDIT: Engine turns over by hand smoothly, and it looks like the cam shafts might be off by just one tooth if any. Going to shower, get a timing and accessory belt, then go to work (via Mom's van, but hey at least it's got new front struts so it doesn't handle like a boat).

I tried to crank the engine over but the starter just spins at a high speed while doing nothing to the engine. I wonder if I stripped teeth off it? Ugh, I hope not, and I hope ever more that I didn't break teeth on the flywheel.

Yes, I'm alright, thank you. Looks like I'm gonna need that beer. :smile:

My WTB thread for the parts I need: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=18774&p=210576#p210576 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=18774&p=210576#p210576)

I'm going to start with removing the intake and starter to see what's up with that (maybe stripped teeth), replace the broken pitch stop, then replace the timing belt and accessory belt.

Got a new timing and accessory belt on my crashed car, gonna try to start it now, be right back. ... IT RUNS! The timing belt had skipped a LOT, but with everything reset it sounds good!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

My friends bailed on me for going to the Wicked Big Meet, and my other friend talked me out of doing a mountain bike race with him, said it would be way too hard. At least I got more work done on my car today, though I still need parts ('Wanted To Buy' thread link (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=18774&p=210576#p210576)).


http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/31263_431175457526_681937526_6161906_1742843_n.jpg

I honestly have no idea what I'm doing. I put a wire shelf in front of the engine since I'm not exactly skilled at body work and my weapon of choice is a 3 lb sledge. I figure no harm should come if I initially assume that I'm a certifiable idiot who could break a steel ball with a rubber mallet.


http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188260_10150143216797527_681937526_8509650_7856796_n.jpg

This was a brilliant idea, if I do say so. I needed something to pull aggressively, something like a large scale slide hammer, so I made something like that using a tow rope tied to an ax. It worked surprisingly well, got the frame sort of where it should be now, even if it is mangled.


You would have a better chance finding an upper/lower rad support at a junk yard. Cut it out with a reciprocating saw and go home and cut out that junk and weld in the spare from the junk yard. Your looking at max 20 spot welds.
I spent a couple hours today pulling and hammering it violently, it's almost where it needs to be. I may do that in the future but I'm trying to do this on as little money as possible at the moment (for the challenge? I'm kind of amused how mangled it is, but I'm weird). I just brought in a friend's dad's MIG Argon welder, but I'm really on the only person I know who knows how to use it despite it not being mine. That said I'm just learning, but doing okay with it.

Once my bumper cover looks like it fits and I've got a radiator and timing cover (and the hood is straight) it's back on the road, I miss it already. And I need a damn car, I don't want to drive my brother's cat piss smelling Camry again.

Glad you finally got that thing going! :grin:


Got a good deal at the salvage yard. I showed up to pick up a radiator for $50, then discovered it didn't include fans so I got pissy about it. I told the guy I was going it to pick a bumper beam, when I got back he told me he'd give me fans for cheap if I picked them myself, so I did. When I came back I asked about a hood and he said he'd cut me a deal on it, so I brought that in too and he let me have the hood, bumper beam, bumper impact foam, and fans for $60. The hood's a bit dented, but less so than mine was before the crash.

The bumper doesn't quite fit, it seems the big frame rails on the sides moved in 2cm, which means the impact was more severe than I thought. Sledge hammer...

EDIT: Bumper's nearly all set. Still need a center timing belt cover, hood latch, and grill!

Ugh, I'm getting sick of fixing this. Unlike many of you I can't stand projects that last more than a day, I just want it to be over.

I've got the bumper beam sort of lined up and the bumper cover fits on. New-ish hood is on (right color too, thankfully) so I have something to align the radiator support beam to, but I just can get it to move where I need it at all. Maybe I'll cut one out at a salvage yard like Chuck suggested after all, I need to get a hood latch anyway. The lower mounts for the radiator are over 2 cm inward of where they need to be, I'm just about resigned to cutting the pegs off the radiator and zip-tying it in place.

Update: I had typed that in the quick reply box early yesterday and never posted it! :razz: I've welded in the new radiator support and aligned the new hood latch, that all went better than expected. I scored a grill too while at the salvage yard, $10 because I bitched about the missing badge. The guys at Car World in Candia, NH are really great, wish they had more Subarus though.

Car's finally done, just needs coolant. Made an undertray and custom grill while I was at it. I'll have to take a pic after I'm sure it's actually running and fixed.

[Soul Shinobi]

Updates copied from my posts in "What have you done to your car today? (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12067)". I know this kind of looks like a mess but it's a useful log for me.


Spent 8 or 9 hours today doing a brake job from my friend. Axxis Ultimate pads (http://www.r1concepts.com/subaru-legacywagon-1998-l-pads.htm), EBC disks, Goodridge lines (http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=355&Product_Code=GR24212&Category_Code=901), ATE Super Blue fluid (http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=355&Product_Code=ATESBBF&Category_Code=901). Same setup I was going to do before I crashed into a tree (well, I was going to opt for the less expensive Centric disks). Did the front lines and started the rear only to find the lines were different, I had put the two rear lines on the front. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/ The pads and brackets needed filing to make them fit. My back is killing me from crouching, how do I always take so long...? I mean I'm anal, regreasing everything, but still. My new Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder (http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html) certainly helped. At least I didn't break anything, thanks to liberal use of PB'Blaster I imagine (and diligent tool use, let's not forget!).

I'm working on my car now, bled the brakes with some left over ATE Super Blue, adjusting the hand brake shoes next, then freeing up the seized rear pads and slide pins. Joy. At least everything came apart without much trouble. If I'm up to it I'll do an oil change and install me fog lights after.

Repairs from the crash have been done for a few days, but I still need to go back and weld some spots now that I got a new tank of gas for the welder. The car drives just like before, though the hood closing is messed up. Headlights will probably never point straight either. Oh, and I need a condenser before I can have AC again. :razz: I haven't swapped the fuel pumps yet.

As for tonight project I haven't done anything since my last post because I've been trying to flash my computer's BIOS for an hour, only to find my motherboard won't boot from USB like it's supposed to. I need to hook up a floppy drive--oh, the good old days... :roll:

Realized I overfilled my oil because I'm not qualified for the simplest of tasks, have to let some out because I don't have a hose small enough to fit in the dipstick hole. :mad:

On a lighter note, either the synthetic oil or my brake work yesterday made the car pretty peppy! Looking forward to seeing what the fuel economy does. I had bled the brakes and disassembled everything on the rear short of rebuilding the calipers. I cleaned, relubed, filed the pad ears so the could move with less than a hammer blow (which was needed to remove some), and adjusted the handbrake. Booya.

Finished up some welding I had put off on the upper radiator support, resecured part of the bumper that got pulled off when hitting the ground on a very steep road shoulder, and installed new fog lights to the previous harness which had to wire breaks I had to chase down. Also took out my snorkus despite the risk (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1471819). Didn't feel like working on my car today, at least that crap's done. Need to get a condenser and AC belt pulley then get the AC recharged so I can weather this hellish week.

Got my AC condenser and idle pulley from the junk yard, gonna install. :grin:

Hooked up my AC condenser with new oiled o-rings, off to the dealer to get it charged! Can't wait! I'm sweating my ass off installing o-rings, jeez it's hot.

My AC is way colder than I expected, booya! Hope it lasts!

Got the low RPM/high throttle bog today, a result of removing the snorkus. Have to remember to rev higher if I need to get moving from a stop. Glad the power doesn't dip after 5,500 RPM like it used to with the snorkus in though. For more on the problem with removing the snorkus see the definitive NASIOC thread: A Problem with CAI/SRIs and an Alternative (yes, finally) (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1471819).

Oh, and relocated my license plate over the left fog light hole to get more air in the condenser/radiator. Looks good.

Man I haven't posted in a while. I went to my first SCCA autocross even yesterday, it was great!

I'm looking into molding my own polyurethane bushings, it looks like it's pretty easy and will cost less than $50 for a pound of it! Excited!! :grin: Back to more research...

Did a write-up on everything you didn't want to know about polyurethane and casting your own bushings:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... st31650300 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=31650300#post31650300)

So it seem autocross has zero effect on my fuel economy? Will I be getting 23.5 mpg for the rest of my life?

One outing, 5 runs each around 1:20, all second gear, relatively high speed for autocross. 2-5 minutes of idling before each run. I double checked everything, I'm pretty sure it had no effect on my fuel economy. I'm blown away; or at least, very confused. :shock: I haven't been driving any different, maybe just a little less AC use. Only other possibility is that the gas pump stopped early, we'll see if the poor fuel economy shows up next fill.

I dread body work SO, SO MUCH that I'd been putting off doing a little sanding and painting on my hood for quite some time. I gave in today, in the most half-assed way possible. I didn't even wash the hood, just took out the color spay can and held a piece of paper to mask it for two quick passes over the scratches and rust. Whatever, looks better. If you know anyone near southern NH who can do body work, let me know, go knows I'm not even gonna touch the rear fender rust.

My shift technique is getting aggressive...

Removed my air dam, resecured my undertray, went for a good drive. All you need for oversteer is camber bolts.

[TGX4776]

updates?

[Soul Shinobi]

Not too much, installed my Energy Suspension shifter bushing, which was a bit of a pain. I cut it in half to ease installation. I'm reluctant to spend much money on this, not sure where I want to go with cars right now. I do plan of getting snow tires soon, and maybe getting 15" alloys for next summer. Also planning on stock tire height, currently my tires are smaller for better acceleration, but I'd like to have the option of using my spare tire just in case.

I hate my alignment (thanks for nothing Whiteline), toeing out the rear makes it feel really vague when it breaks loose. My friend (same car, wagon and all) has zero toe in the rear and an Outback rear sway bar, we get about the same amount of oversteer but it feels way better in his car. Then again his struts are new too. Also, let's not forget my rear right strut is blown and front right spring is missing half a coil. :razz:

Right now my primary concern is rust that I need repaired before winter. Hate body work... :mad:

I've been following some cool builds here, I feel sorry that I don't have much to say. :razz: Maybe if I get a less rusty chassis I'll do a hybrid build.

I also really want something that isn't a Subaru so I can grow more as a driver. Watching Best Motoring International gave me respect for well designed FWD cars (pretty much just Honda, many can out-corner costly RWDs). I've got the itch for a RWD even more though, namely an AE86 or Nissan S chassis; maybe an MX-5.

But first, I might need more income. :neutral:

[TGX4776]

saab c900. it's the best cornering FWD vehicle I have ever driven

[Soul Shinobi]

Infiniti G20 is also an option for FWD, it's supposed to be really good, and I think the touring package came with an LSD. i'd like something responsive and fun, but with not particularly high cornering speed so I can enjoy it on most roads. Maybe I'll just have to mess up the alignment after the fact. :razz:

[Soul Shinobi]

Today I redlined in first and continued putting power down in second to merge into some tough traffic today. I couldn't imagine wanting much more power than the 2.2L, good shift technique counts for a lot. I think I'm a humble 200hp max kind of personality.

My lowly ideal for an engine is a ported and polished Phase II 2.2L with a thinner headgasket. I'd take the smaller 2.2L for better response and slightly better fuel economy. I did say lowly, and I did say humble. :razz: Sorry you guys aren't gonna get a monster built writeup outta' me! :lol: Well you're not gonna get any build writeup until I get another job. :roll:

[Soul Shinobi]

Got my Whiteline rear wagon strut brace! And let me tell you, I am DISAPPOINTED. Both sides are right-hand threaded so it can't be pretensioned! :crybaby: This is kind of pitiful that my eBay front bar has a feature something 7 times the price doesn't. :-? EDIT: WHAT? And the quick release skewers don't even fit in? What the hell? :smt011 I'm going to have to contact someone about this...

In other suspensions news, I might be making handling a little more responsive soon by devising a replacement for the thick soft upper bushings for the springs, especially in the rear. I have a spare set of the lower, harder ones that I may be able to fit to the tops.

[Soul Shinobi]

Whiteline rear strut tower brace installed! Part KSB586Q for 2nd gen Impreza wagons, quick release version. They make one for our cars, can't imagine what's different. I bought this one because I found it cheaper.


Took a bit of time to line up just right and I had to file the holes in one bracket a bit. I'm glad my box of junk fit under it just fine!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/


I probably spent an hour cutting the trim to fit just right, but it was worth it.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/


Near damn invisible!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

[Soul Shinobi]

A few thoughts, as well as updates copied from my posts in "What have you done to your car today? (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12067)" with comments and pics added.


My power steering pump is whining quite a bit. :mad: What do those go for?

It's most definitely the pump, damn it's annoying close up. I just tried that, didn't seem to notice the fluid moving much, and no bubbles. It seems loudest at idle. I wonder how long it'll last. There's a junk yard 16 miles away that has one for $40, but I don't feel like the trip right now, my mom's van needs brakes and today's my day off. PITA.It's quieted down, so I'm diligently ignoring it for now. Also, I've put magnets in the filter basket and they've yet to collect metal so I don't think it's bad.


65 degrees out, holy crap. Changed my oil, modified my custom undertray, and cut the heat-shields off my exhaust. Might polish my headlights, but it'll be dark soon. :-?

... Just came back from my first drive with the [rear strut brace]. IF YOU HAVE A WAGON AND DON'T HAVE A REAR STRUT BRACE, GET ONE. So much more predictable and responsive in corners; chassis rigidity is GOD.

Did so much today!

I bought and replaced my steering u-joint
Siphoned out some oil (overfull)
Welded a newly broken exhaust bracket
Replaced a hose clamp to the heater core
Painted the notched ends of my Cusco lower control arm brace (needed modification to fit a Legacy)
Got home from work and readjusted the steering u-joint so my wheel was centered
Changed the rear diff fluid (getting those damn plugs out, what a pain! Fluid was black. :shock:)
Tapped the holes for the Cusco brace and installed it

Why BBCode no worky? :cry:New steering u-joint. After I installed it my steering wheel was cocked to the right, haha. Didn't take long to readjust the joint after that.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs994.snc4/76773_497920992526_681937526_7639671_2434909_n.jpg


Cusco rear lower control arm brace. I had to be notched to fit the Legacy subframe, so I painted the cut parts to prevent rust. Yes, a Cusco part that's merely steel...

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs465.ash2/73860_497921057526_681937526_7639672_5631032_n.jpg


Installed. I changed the rear differential fluid before I installed it since the fill plug can't be accessed with it installed.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1195.snc4/154770_497921132526_681937526_7639673_3580926_n.jpg


You can see the edges of the original holes on the right. The subframe is so rusty I think this brace will actually help. :shock: The holes for it are threaded from the factory, but I had to run a tap through them for the bolts to fit.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1193.snc4/154554_497921202526_681937526_7639674_5627920_n.jpg


Picked up snow tires from Craig's List today. I overpaid for 6 year old tires. Ugh. Idiot. Yeah they were hardly used and stored indoors, but why do I have to be so dumb/nice?

For living in New England I'm still behind in my drilling-out and tapping skills, I've never used a helicoil either. I have gotten pretty good are working stubborn bolts, though I've broken my fair share too. Penetrating lube, wait 10-30 minutes, more lube, tap-tap tighten, tap-tap-tap loosen (or maybe delicately impact), then I'll move on to the propane torch if that doesn't work. No where near as hot as an oxy-acetylene setup, but it's what I've got and it works.

Side note, my friend broke a lower strut bolt because he wound up cross threading it, can you believe it? You should have seen the breaker bar the nut job had on the thing! Good thing I had a spare.
Kind of fixed (but not really) my driver's side rear view mirror that I broke when contacting the mirror on my brother's Camry. It's a little scary because there's a blind spot between the left and right halves of the mirror. I'll have to replace that soon.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs594.ash2/154633_497921267526_681937526_7639675_6649951_n.jpg


As for what's next, I'm leaning toward engine response. I recently realized that a lightweight crank pulley frees up almost half as much as a lightweight flywheel, which is pretty significant. I'm still considering a MSD coil pack, and might install a gutted muffler, which I did on a friends car. It's not very loud and works well, modest power gain about 4,000 RPM.

[Soul Shinobi]

For some perspective, here's the back story on my buying the car:


January, 2009

I saw a Subaru on Craig's List with no price, the posting said it was very high miles and sounded pessimistic, like they didn't think it was worth anything. I e-mail the guy, no reply. The listing disappears.

A couple days later there's a very similar car posted asking $200, now located in my city. They said they didn't have parking for it, it had to go, and they just wanted to get what they paid for it. I contact them immediately saying I'll give them $300 (the ad said 'sale pending' so I got agressive), she gets back to me, and I check it out the next day.

At this point I'm really skeptical. Two or three hundred dollars? It's a little rough but not ugly, it runs, fluids look okay, I stare at it... I tell them I'll take it. My friend and I play Gran Theft Auto with her boyfriend at their apartment while she does some paper work. They were very nice and told me they got it from a guy in Hollis (I checked my e-mail from Jan '09 to confirm where this first guy was from, for some reason I though it was farther away). They described him as a bit of a mountain man (I guess we'll say that's polite for redneck) and said they talked him down from $400 or so. I guess my gut feeling about what the guy thought the car was worth was right.

We stopped by my friend Paige (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=20346)'s since he bought an identical year and model for $3,000. Granted he didn't need to replace nearly everything on it, but for a tenth the price, something that runs and drives is a good price for me. :grin:

[chuckthefuk]

I really like how you documented the rear diff brace.. i have never had pictures of this installed and never knew you had to notch the damn thing.

Good work!

-Chuck

[Soul Shinobi]

Yes, before I bought it I couldn't find a damn thing on it. I only got it because a Subaru dealer online (http://www.subaruparts.com) that takes Subaru Bucks had it and I had some left over to use. Since posting those pics on our blog a ton of people found our blog from Googling that part.

Love your new avatar by the way. :grin:

[chuckthefuk]

ya I've stumbled upon many a sites by googlin' p/n#

if you like my avatar check this out -> viewtopic.php?f=37&t=20587 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=20587)

-Chuck

[SeriousSubaru]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/01/DSC_0041JPG-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/01/DSC_0042JPG-1.jpg

[Soul Shinobi]

Thanks Paige you're a sweetheart. :grin:

I've updated my future mod list in the first post. Someone asked me on NES (http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16890) what my future mods were, so I got thinking about it and came up with this:

There's a lot of stuff I want to do, but I think the things I'm actually going to do are:


Get my damn snows mounted[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Polish headlights[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Gutted muffler[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Custom lower arm brace (I'm getting better at welding)[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Custom fender braces[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
LED tail lights[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Swaybar endlinks[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Maybe lock down rear subframe (considering welding)[/*:m:eexrgdj6]
Maybe transmission crossmember bushings[/*:m:eexrgdj6]

The goal is to not spend a lot of money and make the car more responsive and enjoyable, while barely making it more harsh (adding NVH). I'd love to do an ALK and Roll Center Adjustment Kit, but I don't want to put a lot of money into this rusty chassis and it'd just be something more I'd have to remove later if I got a better example of this chassis.

Truth is the cornering balance is already pretty neutral, and I can get it to oversteer with a little weight shift (something I learned to do well on my old '92 Legacy that didn't have any rear swaybar). I want to increase response and a sense of connectedness (read: fun). I don't usually have bigger dick contests and can already double the limit in the corners, so additional power or road-holding isn't a concern. Just want something that gives good feedback so I can grow as a driver (which, frankly, Subarus aren't great for).

[fwa2500]

i still think you would enjoy a set of 16" wrx wheels ;) spending all this money on handling while limiting yourself to the 14"ers is more or less castrating the cars actual ability. the extra grip you cain from the wider tyres and the significantly reduced sidewall flex all add up.

[Matty2Hotty]

Now from all these pictures... I would say your Subi sure has been through hell and back haha...

[Soul Shinobi]

i still think you would enjoy a set of 16" wrx wheels ;) spending all this money on handling while limiting yourself to the 14"ers is more or less castrating the cars actual ability. the extra grip you cain from the wider tyres and the significantly reduced sidewall flex all add up.
Haha, I don't in any way doubt what you're saying, but I'm going for the 'it's more fun to drive a slow car fast' mentality. I don't WANT to be able to double the speed limit in the corners. :razz: Also, this car is for me to toy around with and try new things on, and more grip at the tires can hide suspension flaws until you're going WAY too fast.



Now from all these pictures... I would say your Subi sure has been through hell and back haha...
Yes, it has. Let's not forget that it was rough when I bought it too, and then someone smashed the windows while I was rebuilding the engine (I had only owned it a few months then).

[Zac]

very nice wagon man.

Love the snow drifting pictures too!

[Soul Shinobi]

Thanks. I'm actually doing 5 mph on bald all-seasons, haha. :grin:

[Soul Shinobi]

Legit update time!


Removed my mud flaps, saving 2.37 lbs plus 1.3 lbs dirt behind them (3.67 lbs total).


Got a Scangauge II from mycargoesvroom.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/226304_10150228804217527_681937526_9000663_7776999_n.jpg


And polished my headlights. I spent about 2 hours doing it, spending about ~5 min with each grit on each light (very thorough), and talking with my friend as I did it. I used 400/600/1000/1500/2000 grit wet sand paper then rubbing compound then buffing. I used a cheap sponge to wrap the sheet sand paper around to make it easier to hold and apply more even pressure. 400 grit is pretty coarse for this, but my lights were pretty pitted. Link: Headlight polishing thread (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=3636&p=249383#p249383).

In this first picture the light to the right is untouched:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

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I think being about to see the sky in it is a good measurement of success (look for the telephone pole).

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/


And again for comparison below the one on the right here is untouched:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/


My friend Mike (Yint) died shortly after, due to sheer amazement.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/

[chuckthefuk]

hahhahaha love the progression

[mycargoesvroom]

Looks great man! Glad you're enjoying the Scangauge :)

[Soul Shinobi]

Thanks. :grin:

The headlights are great, it's like I added 30+ watts!

There's a mod I forgot to mention, I boosted the alternator voltage half a volt about a month ago, which also helped with headlight output among other things. Linky! (http://www.scoobymods.com/raise-your-alternator-voltage-t10547.html)

[Kimly207]

I like your wagon. Nice job on the headlights. :)

[Soul Shinobi]

LEDs inside (in cool blue; except map lights), rear corner lights, highmount stop lights and center (hatch) stop lights. The corner stop lights are still incandescents, I wasn't sure if the LED main brake lights would be as bright as them but they're not quite, so I have two bright, and two fast lighting stop lights. You have to spend crazy money to get LED brake lights that bright. I got the main stop lights in the hatch from this eBay seller (http://myworld.ebay.com/vision-technology/) (1157 bulb type, 68 LED count), and the rest from Super Bright LEDs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/).

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/183862_10150318128557527_681937526_9784024_4893825_n.jpg


Got an '04 WRX steering wheel. Feels great, though it's only ticker in the two spots where you put your hands. It's a pound lighter than my stock one. Makes such a big difference having the parts you touch be higher quality, the car just feels better!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284883_10150318128492527_681937526_9784022_288180_n.jpg


Installed an '07 STI rear shifter bushing. Turns out it's identical to the one I had, just newer (you had 9 years to improve upon this Subaru, come on!). Going to surround the old one with polyurethane (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041914). I stuffed a piece of plastic in the void at the bottom of the bushing to firm it up a bit. To take it off I took the snap ring off the cup (the white part here, the bottom of the shift lever sits in it). Getting that cup back in is a royal pain. It has two rubber o-rings around it, so when you push it in, it rolls back out slightly, so I have to had my brother lean on the shifter heavily inside while I installed the snap ring.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250023_10150318128357527_681937526_9784020_99622_n.jpg



Made some minor updates to my part weight list here (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18011&p=204036#p204036).

Made a Want to Buy thread here (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=22274) for a few OEM parts (mounts, throttle body, headlight bits, sway bar) I need to get some mods rolling. Going to being installing one piece headlights that I blacked out inside, and filling stock mounts with polyurethane (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041914). Oh, and I scored a full set of '05 STI suspension. :smile:

[chuckthefuk]

very nice!

I also hate those snap rings!

[Soul Shinobi]

Insulated my AC return line (low pressure line) to improve efficiency. Just pipe insulation from Home Depot. Reading up on it people have recorded it dropping temps as much as 10 degrees on a hot day in different cars. Makes sense, costs $5.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284237_10150318911122527_681937526_9793694_5536647_n.jpg

[Soul Shinobi]

Failed a very late state inspection (was due in March haha!). Need front brakes (ordered Hawks HPS and Centric rotors all around for $225 shipped from this awesome site KNS Brakes (https://www.knsbrakes.com/index.php)). Exhaust leak at the axle back flange so I'm putting my friend's WRX muffler on.

[Huffer]

I'm going to have to try that insulation tip. Another reason to visit my home improvement store muwhahahahah