View Full Version : 97 legacy gt new clutch slipping
toyota>subaru
05-28-2010, 04:42 AM
I am pretty stumped so far on this issue I am having with my 97 gt. I bought the car last fall with a blown stock 2.5 and I put a 2.2 in it from a 95 lsi that I previously owned which was an auto. I had no problems with any of the drivetrain however, my 2.2 developed an internal engine noise which may be a valve guide but after driving it all winter with the ticking I decided I would try to put a 2.5 in it from a 96 vehicle. Its a recycling yard motor so I am not sure which model it came from.
When I put this new engine in and went for the initial test drive my clutch would not hold much power at all. It would not even go up the driveway. I took the car back apart and I was very thorough with double checking my work and everything was installed correctly. This clutch only has about 8,000 miles and was replaced by a professional in '08 (previous owner did this). I knew the prev. owner purchased a relatively cheap clutch so I decided to replace it with a subaru clutch kit (Exedy) and I also got the updated flywheel. I put this in last night and I have not noticed a single change in the symptoms of the vehicle.
The rear main does not leak, the press. plate and flywheel were wiped with a non-residual solvent, and everything was torqued to spec.
I am looking for suggestions as to why I am experiencing this.
decke48
05-28-2010, 09:03 AM
does the car move at all? go into every gear w/ no hard engage? sound like a problem with the hydraulics to me. either the slave isnt returning all the way or the hose is collapsed
toyota>subaru
05-28-2010, 02:25 PM
The car will drive down the street but if I try to accelerate normally my tach will shoot up and the car will not gain speed. Clutch engagement seems very normal. I can not see another vehicle with the hydraulic system so I am not sure how far the pin on the slave is supposed to relax and return back in. It does not go completely back in but it doesn't seem as though it is putting a lot of pressure on the fork once relaxed either. I can grab the fork and pull it towards the engine which pushes the slave back in. Also, once I push the slave back in and I go to press the pedal it drops to the floor. Then i pull it back up and push it again and it has good resistance.
toyota>subaru
05-29-2010, 02:32 AM
Here is some more information.
Tonight I unbolted the slave cylinder and got the pedal to stay off the neutral start switch. I started the car in first gear and drove it down the street. I was able to somewhat slowly hit the brakes until the vehicle had stopped with the clutch still engaged and the transmission still in first gear. At this point I am out of ideas. That eliminated the hydraulic system and it still slipped. Between 96 and 97 what engine differences could make this happen if they are both dohc 2.5's?
Remember I already had a 95 2.2 in this car using the same clutch and flywheel and drivetrain components and it worked great.
any help would be so insanely appreciated!
ouch1011
05-29-2010, 03:14 AM
This may not be too easy to remember, but do you know what angle the release fingers were sitting at on the pressure plate? The should sit dead flat with the plate bolted down. If the plate wasn't fully bolted down or there was some issue with the flywheel or the thickness of the clutch disc that caused not enough clamping force on the clutch, it would cause the pressure plate fingers to be angled up and away from the pressure plate.
toyota>subaru
05-29-2010, 11:33 PM
I have a push type pressure plate so the fingers on mine are at an angle. On pull type they should be flat. I saw you have a 98 lgt and I am pretty sure I read somewhere they started putting pull type systems in at that point.
When I push in my clutch pedal the bearing is pressed against the fingers causing them to push in and the mating surface to pull back.
ouch1011
05-31-2010, 04:18 AM
Negative...push type clutch should have the fingers sit flat. When you unbolt the pressure plate (or the clutch disk is so worn out that the pp can no longer clamp on the clutch disk) the fingers move away from the pressure plate. So then the pp is sitting unbolted, the fingers angle out, and when you bolt the pp down and clamp down on the clutch, the fingers move in towards the pp until they are level (on a new clutch). If the pp fingers were angled out, that would indicate the pp is not providing adequate clamping force on the clutch disk, which would cause slippage.
I can't say that I've seen a "pull type" clutch on a Subaru before, but I suspect that the slave cyl pulls back on the release fork versus pushing it back, but the actual movement of the release fork is the same.
And my trans is from a 2.2, so it has a cable clutch. :) Easier to setup on a 4eat-5mt conversion versus installing the complete hydralic system.
toyota>subaru
05-31-2010, 06:09 AM
If what you say is true, then how can you explain in detail what the fork and throwout bearing do to "detach" if you will, the pressure plate from the friction disc? If those fingers are flat and there is pressure on the disc while they are flat, then what type of force would be used to separate the mating surfaces?
Right now I still say that the bearing provides a force on those angled fingers to push them flat so that they can force the mating surface in the opposite direction (backwards) and off of the friction disc. Kind of like pushing on the tin lid of a glass jelly jar; it makes the popping noise as the center pushes in and the edges pull back.
I hope this is easier for you to understand.
nomad666666
06-08-2010, 01:11 PM
http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/spec ... ctions.pdf (http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/specsheets/InstallInstructions.pdf)
Look at fig 3
toyota>subaru
06-10-2010, 01:41 AM
http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/specsheets/InstallInstructions.pdf
Look at fig 3
Is this installation instruction for a push or pull type clutch? I did figure out my problem and it definitely was not because my diaphram on my pressure plate sticks out a little bit. It is supposed to be like that and has been that way on every push style I have ever seen on any make or model.
The joint on the hub side of one of my cv axles had broken. I replaced it and it drives like a champ.
nomad666666
06-10-2010, 08:20 AM
The joint on the hub side of one of my cv axles had broken. I replaced it and it drives like a champ
:smt023
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