Timing belt replacement help.

[jzignig]

going through to replace my timing belt/ waterpump, thermostat and all the goods.

Opened up the timing belt case to find that everything looks pretty much flawless.

The kit that i bought, to my suprise came with the wrong tensioner. So. Im now only replacing the belt, unless someone can tell me the answer to this:

This style tensioner:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/06/DSCN3971-1.jpg

Should there be play in the pulley thats actually attached to the hydraulic tensioner?

It moves in and out, almost like the hole that the bolt goes through is worn. Anyone have any idea?

If that seems weird to anyone then i will be replacing the tensioner too which just means waiting another week for the right one.

What do you guys think?

[green97gt]

that pulley should be VERY tight.

im not sure what you mean, but theres the piston(that pushed the pulley out/left as you look at it), if you pull on the belt and that moves at all, replace it. you should need to put that in a clamp/vice to compress it.

then theres the two bolts that hold it on to the engine. is that what your talking about? if those are loose you also have a problem.

the thing should be pretty tight all around, that what hold tension on the timing belt.

as long as your doing the tb/front engine, if theres even a little question, do it. you hear alot of horror stories about bad tensioners leting a timing belt go and eating valves=$$$$$$

also do the seals as long as the belts off..might as well while you in there.

EDIT: oh, reread. you mean in and out, as in front to back.... right?

it should have virtually none, all the tensioners ive messed with have had VERY little in and out/front back. any doubt, replace it, beats head work.

[jzignig]

no the tensioner itself is still solid. (the hydraulic cylinder) The pulley's bolt sleeve seems to have a little play in it, its not much at all and it doesnt look worn. But i felt like it should be tighter.

Also what seals are you talking about? I am doing the thermostat/waterpump as well. But other than that no seals.

Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated.

[subie/legacy]

he is probably referring to crank, and cam seals. which would be a good idea.
I don't think there should be any play.. at least mine didn't when I did my timing belt..
you might want checking the backing plate on the oil pump while your in there as well.
heard many stories where the screws on the back of the oil pump backed out causing low oil pressure and or leak alot.

[jzignig]

Welp I decided what all i am replacing after a full rundown. Everything seems A-OK except for one of the pulleys and the water pump. The gasket that came with the waterpump however is almost like a cardboard material while the stock is metal. I dont like that. I almost want to reuse the factory gasket.

I am however having trouble lining up cam gears to their timing positions without their pressure snapping them back. Drivers side. Which bothers me. I understand how an interference engine works. But this is driving me nuts. I cannot get them to line up. I need this car roadworthy TONIGHT. I have a feeling i may be shit outta luck. lol.

[wunderbra]

That driver side cam pulley will be "loaded" when it is in the correct position. It is a bit tricky, but it will stay there once you get it set there. It is just a little difficult.

If you have a couple small plastic clamps, clamp the belt on the pulleys once they are lined up.

[jzignig]

got everything in and took it for a drive. sadly, its overheating now. I'm betting DOA thermostat or air in the system. There is no sign of leaks. At all.

I'm freaking out a bit. haha

Any ideas?

[jzignig]

Im kinda running my own thread here but i replaced the thermostat with the original and all is well. Thank you for the help, and I thank this forums for the DIY guide, which helped a ton.

[burningindulge]

And thank me :)