While the motor is out of my 99OB..

[Colorado_Outback]

Anything else I should address while I have the motor out?
My throwout bearing is chirping and has been for six months or so.. I figure I better change the clutch before it seizes and messes up my junk. It got a T Belt, water pump and HG's at 83K and is running strong at 129K. Also did plugs and wires week before last.
Do the valves need adjusted on these motors?

I had issues with the clutch pedal not returning and it getting spongy when hot so I changed the line to a SS braided one and replaced the slave about 15K ago, just noticed that the clutch fluid is going black again. Haven't had any of the previous issues return but what causes this? Could my master be bad?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/10/2919583203_a2d72588ac-1.jpg

Greg

[nomad666666]

Clutch not returning then you need a http://www.pdmtsk.com/products.html

You can find them ebay its the TSK1

It takes about 5hrs and special toolsto adjust the valves its a real pain.. You shouldn't need to inless you are replacing cams or valves.

[mike-tracy]

Clutch not returning then you need a http://www.pdmtsk.com/products.html
You can find them ebay its the TSK1
It takes about 5hrs and special toolsto adjust the valves its a real pain.. You shouldn't need to inless you are replacing cams or valves.

Clutch not returning is a couple of things,
air in the hydraulic system,
Failing slave cylinder. Subaru has an updated part number to the slave cylinder for your car. MAKE SURE YOU BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY!!!
And of course the master cylinder as you mentioned.


The tranquil "transmission sleeve kit" actually stops the clutch chatter/juddering upon release of the clutch pedal, or inconsistant pedal feel (sticky or jerky travel). The pedal not coming back up at all isn't one of the things it fixes, unfortunately. I had this in my 98 Impreza (I had owned the car a year before replacing the clutch and decided to put the TSK in as well). It worked good for me, but I still experienced a little "judder," just not nearly as bad as before.


97-99 EJ25D motors have hydraulic valve actuation and adjustment is not part of normal maintenance, they just get noisy :grin:.

edit: found the document that includes 97-99 DOHC valve adjustment:
(pages 5-6)
H4 engine service (http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/H-4.pdf)

Why not replace the seals on the back of the engine while you're at it, and replace that black oil-seperator plate with the new aluminum part (don't forget to get the updated hex-screws as well, old screws won't seal the plate properly)

[nomad666666]

Clutch not returning is a couple of things,
air in the hydraulic system,
Failing slave cylinder. Subaru has an updated part number to the slave cylinder for your car. MAKE SURE YOU BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY!!!
And of course the master cylinder as you mentioned.


The tranquil "transmission sleeve kit" actually stops the clutch chatter/juddering upon release of the clutch pedal, or inconsistant pedal feel (sticky or jerky travel). The pedal not coming back up at all isn't one of the things it fixes, unfortunately. I had this in my 98 Impreza (I had owned the car a year before replacing the clutch and decided to put the TSK in as well). It worked good for me, but I still experienced a little "judder," just not nearly as bad as before.


97-99 EJ25D motors have hydraulic valve actuation and adjustment is not part of normal maintenance, they just get noisy :grin:.

edit: found the document that includes 97-99 DOHC valve adjustment:
(pages 5-6)
H4 engine service (http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/H-4.pdf)

Why not replace the seals on the back of the engine while you're at it, and replace that black oil-seperator plate with the new aluminum part (don't forget to get the updated hex-screws as well, old screws won't seal the plate properly)

mike-tracy is spot on :smt023

I had to get a TKS because my clutch throwout bearing was locking up on the grooved up clutch snout my pedal would stick to the floor I think its a good piece of insurance.

[Colorado_Outback]

I had to get a TKS because my clutch throwout bearing was locking up on the grooved up clutch snout my pedal would stick to the floor I think its a good piece of insurance.

Ill inspect mine when I remove it, like I said in the first post I haven't had any more issues with pedal feel or return since swapping the slave and line. I was just wondering if the fluid going black again after only 15K was a sign that I have another problem in the system.

[Colorado_Outback]

edit: found the document that includes 97-99 DOHC valve adjustment:
(pages 5-6)
H4 engine service (http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/H-4.pdf)

Why not replace the seals on the back of the engine while you're at it, and replace that black oil-seperator plate with the new aluminum part (don't forget to get the updated hex-screws as well, old screws won't seal the plate properly)

Good info, ill look into replacing that while I have the motor out.