98 Outback resurrection

[djmtsu]

This weekend I am hoping to start, and complete a head gasket, timing belt, seal refresh, and tune up on my 1998 Outback. As I stated in my intro thread, I picked this up for $600 in amazing condition, except for the known head gasket issue. The car was never overheated, and actually runs perfect, until the temp needle begins to climb.

I have the cherry picker, engine stand, and all my tools, fluids and parts ready. The wife and son and going to grandma's house, so I have the weekend free to get this beast back on the road. Working on cars and drinking beer! Great weekend ahead.

So here is what I plan on replacing while I am in there.
-Head gaskets
-intake, cam, crank, rear main seals
-water pump
-oil seperator
-all timing idlers and tensioner, and timing belt
-fuel, air, oil filters
-plugs and wires
-maybe motor mounts (will decide when they are out)

I plan to document the whole thing, pics!

I only have one real question: what weight oil do you guys recommend?

Updates will begin Saturday morning.

:smt023

[Huffer]

Do you know that it's actually a bad HG? But hey, if you're doing a full refresh you're doing it right.

For oil, 5w30 is fine.

[djmtsu]

Yep. Radiator, thermostat and hoses were replaced and it still was getting hot. She took it to the dealer and they confirmed CO2 in the coolant. You can clearly smell it as well, and get tiny bubbles on the coolant.

[Huffer]

Good to go then! Post some pics of the work, that's always fun for people to see. :)

[djmtsu]

Another quickie question.

Since I don't have the ridiculously expensive Subaru cam lock tools, will it be ok to use those black plastic 'clamps' used for work working and what not to hold the cams in place? I read somewhere that someone said they worked perfectly.

Also, do I have to remove the cam gears to pull the camshafts out of the heads? I don't see a reason to if not.

[Huffer]

If you check the DIY section I think warrior posted a great DIY on changing the timing belt

[ouch1011]

A bit late for this, but you have to remove the cam gears to remove the inner timing cover, because you can't pull the heads without removing that cover, and I don't believe you can remove the cams without removing it either. And you can't get to the head bolts without removing the cams. So yes, you need to remove the cam gears :)

[djmtsu]

Thanks, I completed the whole job in one night.

Unfortunately for me, the BRAND NEW timing tensioner failed to tension properly. The plunger did not fully extend. The belt skipped and KABOOM! It was running great too, for all of about 10 minutes. I KNOW it did serious damage since as soon as it happened, the car died, and coolant began to leak between the left side head and block near cylinder #1.

So now a 2.2 is going in. Stayed tuned, I might need help with that as well. I am told it all bolts/plugs in. All I apparently have to do is swap over the TB.

It will not be done for a couple of weeks though, I am leaving town for a week.

[Airgne]

well that sucks. sorry to hear about that. im sure you can get another 2.5

[djmtsu]

I would get another 2.5, but I can get a 2.2 for $350, whereas a 2.5 locally is around $1000.

So I would rather not deal with the 2.5 issues any further. Non-interference and good head gaskets.

What sucks is I am getting no compensation for my blown engine due to the defective part. The only thing I am getting out of it is reimbursement for the parts I bought.

I'm not sweating it too bad though. It is still cheaper than a car payment, I already have one, and don't want two.

[djmtsu]

Alright, here is where I am now.

I was lied to about the 2.2 I picked up. Yes, it is out of a 95 Legacy, but it was a manual trans car, so no EGR. I am thinking about just using the 2.5 intake and extending the EGR tube down to the exhaust manifold and tapping it at cylinder 4.

I can't find any information about people even trying this, but I don't want a damn CEL all the time.

Thoughts?

[Grafton]

ouch, the 2.5 manifold is different than the 2.2 they dont exchange :/

[ryanmiller]

too bad you dont live closer, i'd sell ya the 2.2 turbo and trans out of my '94 legacy. i think i am gonna try to convince my dad to buy an outback needing an engine and do the same thing. i have a '98 outback with a 2.2 in it also. really trying to figure out what i want to do with my turbo engine.

[djmtsu]

OK, so the new EJ22 is in. Not running an EGR (since I was given the wrong engine). Oh well, no smog test for me anyway, and I have a scanner now to check the codes every month since the light is on.

I have a few questions however.

Where do the vacuum ports on the top of the TB (they face the driver side)

Where do the 2 vacuum hardlines that comes out next to the PS pump go?

Those are the two things I am still needing to figure out. The engine took FOREVER to fire up after the swap. It was running really rich when it finally fired, but then settled down.

Since this is my second time pulling the engine, it took 6 hours flat to pull and re-install the 2.2. I am pretty damn proud of that.

[djmtsu]

IT'S ALIVE!

Finally worked out my vacuum snafu, then had another problem. Kept getting a code for Idle Air malfunction. Idle was horrible, bouncing revs and all that. Then, I started getting a MAP fault. WTF???

Well, the MAF fault was accompanied with the engine sounding horrible, and knocking bad.

Turns out the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, that tee's to the MAP sensor was cracked. Fixed that.

Then, I took off the motor for the IAC, it was horribly seized. The shaft on the IAC turned perfect however. Pulled the IAC stepper motor off the old 2.5, and it was perfect. Then, I still couldn't get it to work right. Decided to take the motor off the IAC while the car was running and manipulate the valve manually. All I had to do was lift it off and then put it back on and everything smoothed out. Perfect!

She is running perfect as can be!

[djmtsu]

New day, more problems.

It seems the water pump is leaking from somewhere. I knew I should have replaced it when I had the motor on the stand, but I didn't have the parts on me, and didn't want to wait since I had help last weekend. So now, tonight I am doing the water pump and timing belt. I am glad it has the 2.2 now, since it will be 10x easier than the old 2.5. What sucks though is I have to get it done tonight. My other car, a 2006 Mazda 6 wagon is at the dealer for some warranty work.

Any tips would be useful, although I have done quite a bit of research.

Oh, another thing, I noticed a small oil puddle under the middle of the car. The rear main seal was changed, and oil plate resealed before I put the motor in. It looks like the oil pan is crusty though. How much of a pain is the pan to remove with the engine in the car?

[djmtsu]

Wow, its been a while.

After the last post I replaced the water pump and thermostat, all timing components, and found the oil leak. The car has been running perfect until yesterday. I let my father in law borrow it for a while to save on gas (he drive a Tundra). He called to say the temp gauge was climbing so he pulled over and shut it down. When he called back in about 15 minutes, he said it would crank, but not fire. Then, about 20 minutes later, he said it fired up and blew a huge plume of white smoke out the back.

Great. Looks like he toasted a head gasket. He drove it another 20 miles to his house, and he said it didn't overheat during the trip, but feels down on power and has a hesitation now.

I think I am going to attempt the HG replacement with the engine in the car this weekend. If it doesn't work, I'll find another 2.5 to put it. The 2.2 is a dog compared to the old 2.5 that was in it. And the CEL bugs me (no EGR). Good thing I get parts for cost :)

Any tips on doing the HG in the car? Thanks guys.

[DarkPhoenix]

Wow, its been a while.

After the last post I replaced the water pump and thermostat, all timing components, and found the oil leak. The car has been running perfect until yesterday. I let my father in law borrow it for a while to save on gas (he drive a Tundra). He called to say the temp gauge was climbing so he pulled over and shut it down. When he called back in about 15 minutes, he said it would crank, but not fire. Then, about 20 minutes later, he said it fired up and blew a huge plume of white smoke out the back.

Great. Looks like he toasted a head gasket. He drove it another 20 miles to his house, and he said it didn't overheat during the trip, but feels down on power and has a hesitation now.

I think I am going to attempt the HG replacement with the engine in the car this weekend. If it doesn't work, I'll find another 2.5 to put it. The 2.2 is a dog compared to the old 2.5 that was in it. And the CEL bugs me (no EGR). Good thing I get parts for cost :)

Any tips on doing the HG in the car? Thanks guys.

Disconnect the motor mounts, tranny mount, and jack the engine up to clear the frame rails. It isn't too difficult from what I read with an EJ22.

[jey]

There's plenty of room with the EJ22 - shouldn't need to jack the engine as there is enough room between the frame rails. It helps to remove the air filter box and battery, plus all the other usual stuff in the front when you're doing the timing belt (radiator fans, maybe even the radiator)

[azlegacy]

Damn. I woulda had a shop install it . That's a lot of time and work.

[djmtsu]

not really. these are easy to work on. and for $600 initial investment it is a non issue to put another engine in or fix this one.

[djmtsu]

Found a damn near brand new JDM engine to put in this beast. It is in perfect condition, all sensors check out perfect. All timing covers are in tact, the belt looks new, hell the whole engine looks new, it is ridiculous. Picked it up for $800.

Good thing I kept my blown EJ25 around. It looks like I have to swap over the intake manifold so I can use the EGR and IAC valve. Not a big deal. It looks like the fuel rails will swap over, which is good since I don't want to use the 200,000 mile ones on the old engine.

Already have the tap for the EGR tube in the head. This weekend the swap will go down.

This makes engine 3 for this beast. Engine #1 lasted 200K, engine #2 was a junkyard pull that lasted about 10K. Lets hope this engine lasts 200K.

At least it is so easy to swap these out. I am thinking about trading in my Mazda6 Wagon for a newer Outback/Legacy Wagon for myself just for that reason.

[DarkPhoenix]

Before you drop the JDM engine in, I would still change the head gaskets. The JDM motors aren't immune to the head gasket issues.

[djmtsu]

Yeah, I am aware that none of the 2.5's out there are immune to the HG failure.

We did a pressure test, and a compression test on the engine and all is very good. I am not going through the hassle of doing the head gaskets. For as cheap as you can pick these up, it is easier just to swap the engine out then rebuild it. If they hadn't put the head bolts under the camshafts, I would not have a problem doing it. But as it is, forget it.

I am going to rebuild the 2.2 that is in it now and sell it. It has blown gaskets, but I am going to do a full rebuild, top to bottom. Should make a good engine for someone. Might even give it to a buddy at work for one of his VW projects.

[djmtsu]

New engine is in and runs absolutely PERFECT.

The engine seriously could pass for new. Pulled the JDM intake to put on the USDM intake and the ports, valves, TB, everything was perfect with no carbon anywhere to be seen. The head was super easy to drill and tap for the EGR. No issues. Once everything was given the once over, hit the key and it fired up immediately and ran perfect. No CEL, no smoke, nothing.

Once the coolant was bled and topped off we took it for about a 50 miles journey and there are no issues.

I forgot how much more torque the 2.5 has over the tired 2.2 that I swapped in. She feels brand new now, and will more than likely go another 200K.

[DarkPhoenix]

Nothing quite like a good running EJ25. Well, maybe a good running Subaru H6. :P

Good luck with it dude. I just got my car back after getting the HGs done. I am amazed at the power it has compared to what it was.

[djmtsu]

Back with an update.

The motor was running perfect, then one day....problem.

It suddenly started to 'chug' out of nowhere. Cruising along at 70mph and it sounded like a flat tire. Pulled over and it died, and wouldn't restart. Hmmm. So I let it sit for about 20 minutes, and it starts, but ran like shit, sounded like a v-twin. No CEL.

So I figured it might be the fuel pump. It is 13 years old, and has over 200K on it. So I haul it home, and get a bunch of new parts. Install new pump and strainer, new fuel filter, and a new coil pack, just because.

No change :smt021

So now, I think it might be a timing issue. If you hold your foot down and rev the engine, it smooths out after about 3500-4000 RPMs. But how?? This engine is damn near new??

So I take out the fans, take off the belts and timing covers. And that is when I see a very scary sight. After turning the engine to the timing alignment marks, the right side cams are way off (right side being passenger side). WTF??

Then I see this:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6e3ftkJNz8Q/TiLsN92qnGI/AAAAAAAAC7I/q8Pi74pXR_Q/s640/IMAG0162.jpg

There is also a hairline crack all around the raised hex section.

Got a new right side intake cam pulley, new belt and tensioner.

Installed it all, and she runs like a brand new car again!

I am actually VERY surprised there was no damage to the valves. The exhaust cam was off several teeth, and that broken intake cam was WAYYY off. I was scared to death that when I fired it up I would hear a death knock or damage.

Nope. Everything is perfect.

How the hell did that happen??? The old 200,000 mile cam pulley is perfect, and this one is fractured??

[Huffer]

Manufacturing defect.

[djmtsu]

Pretty important part.

I had a tensioner fail on initial use as well. That is what killed the original engine that I had rebuilt.

They don't make shit like they used to.

[Huffer]

Pretty important part.

I had a tensioner fail on initial use as well. That is what killed the original engine that I had rebuilt.

They don't make shit like they used to.

I hear that - glad your engine is running again though!

[99' legacy l]

ok so not really relevent but what does egr actuly stand for i keep seeing it but i cant seem to find an explanation, great thread tho :p

[djmtsu]

EGR=exhaust gas recirculation

[99' legacy l]

awesomeeee :razz: learnen somthin new everyday :lol: