jewbaru
09-12-2010, 11:28 AM
ok.. so this is basically pretty easy
required tools: (what i used)
10mm socket
12mm socket
ratchet
small extension
exacto knife
wizzer wheel
wire strippers/crimpers
drill
drill bit
phillips screw driver
items needed:
power inverter (i used a 400watt)
electrical box with adjustable depth (see pictures)
male end extension cord plug
black power outlet
black power outlet cover
relay
couple machine screws (i used 10-24x1")
sheet metal screw
piece of velcro
piece of cardboard or paper
as far as the wire goes, i used an old 14 guage extenstion cord so i could run three live wires to the trunk. its 14x3 cuz its grounded, nice neat way to run three wires wrapped in one sleave.(obviously i have two left over for furture projects, mine as well run it if im in there already)
ok, for starters. to make this easier on me, i removed the back seat
two 12mm bolts hold the bottom seat in place
once the bottom half is out, there are three more 12mm bolts that hold the back of the seat in place. remove those
this is what it should look like with the seat removed
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/0c93e027-1.jpg
now to make it even easier, i completely removed the arm rest section of the back of the seat, simply four 10mm nuts and the arm rest will slide right out
once the arm rest is out, fold it down to reveal the back trap door that gives you access to your trunk (is there an actual name for that door? idk)
i took a piece of cardboard and traced the outline of the blue electrical box and cut it out so i had a small template. i then traced the outline onto the trap door in the area that i wanted the plug. i then took an exacto knife and cut the material away that i had outlined. once done with that, i lined the template up on the back side and repeated so that i would have the cloth removed on either side.
next comes the fun part.. cutting out the hole
now, idk if anyone was ever messed with that arm rest before, but did you know the internals of that trap door is sheet metal ! :shock:
and to boot its not flat.. its ridged and has holes punched out in it.. thankfully where i had lined up my template and cut the material worked out perfectly. i really dont think there would be a problem where you cut out the hole, cuz the metal is thin enough to work with if you had to flatten out the section you were working with.
i used my wizzer wheel to cut out the rectangle. it was kinda tricky for me to get it close to perfect because my wizzer wheel disk was bigger than the hole i was cutting it with. any kind of dremil or jig saw etc would do a really good job because the cuts are a little more controlled, but hey, its not a perfect world haha
once the hole is cut, line up your box and make sure it fits nice and snug. once youve got it where you want it, mark the two dots where the mounting plate will bolt to
your going to be drilling from the back (trunk) side of the door
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/bracket-1.jpg
once those two hole are marked, you can simply drill them out. now to stop the drill bit from going all the way through the metal AND the cloth material, i took the piece of metal that i had cut out, and slipped it between the front side and the material so when the bit passed through, it would stop before damaging the cloth
now slip your two machine screws throuh the holes, from the seat side of the door, its nice because theyre hidden under the materical (theres enough room to pull the fabric off the door to slip the bolts in)
once the box is bolted in snuggly, you can begin the wiring process. i took a two foot section of extension cord, put a male plug on one end and stuck the other end into one of the holes on the back of the blue box. (make sure u make the cord long enough comming out of the box so you can still fold down that trap door if you need to without pulling on the inverter) once through the hole, strip the wires and connect to your electrical outlet. install the outlet into the box, and place your cover on.
i believe its important to have one of those adjustable boxes because once i put the outlet cover on, it wasnt on tight enough against the trap door for my likings, so i moved it backwards a hair (simple twist of a screw driver)
so, now you have the hard part done, this is what it should look like
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/71bc6b13-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/aec280e7-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/393b6ca4-1.jpg
put the seat all back together and back into the car
(i ran the wire out of the trunk and down the back seat passenger side before i put the seat back in, just to make it a little easier)
time to wire
i ran my cord into the firewall above the brake pedal, under the dash, and then down the passenger side of the car under the kick plates next to the doors.
once i had my power to the trunk, i ran it into a relay. (which you can secure to the back of the trunk with a simple sheet metal screw). now, i was lazy and didnt really feel like putting a switch in, and i wanted the unit to power up and shut off when i got in and out of the car. so my solution was to use a relay and hook it up to the preamp for my subs amp. (smart idea huh)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/1844a2f7-1.jpg
that little blackish gray wire running up the side goes to the relay, now the preamp is a 12 volt signal, so all you have to do is ground the other side of the relay, and bam, you have your switch.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/4a1c2055-1.jpg
i used a piece of velcro (the hook side) and stuck it to the inverter. the hook side will latch right onto your carpet and keep the unit stationary
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/1124ac3d-1.jpg
now all you gotta do, is plug in the outlet and you've got power and not to mention a great topic of conversation next time someone gets into your back seat haha
required tools: (what i used)
10mm socket
12mm socket
ratchet
small extension
exacto knife
wizzer wheel
wire strippers/crimpers
drill
drill bit
phillips screw driver
items needed:
power inverter (i used a 400watt)
electrical box with adjustable depth (see pictures)
male end extension cord plug
black power outlet
black power outlet cover
relay
couple machine screws (i used 10-24x1")
sheet metal screw
piece of velcro
piece of cardboard or paper
as far as the wire goes, i used an old 14 guage extenstion cord so i could run three live wires to the trunk. its 14x3 cuz its grounded, nice neat way to run three wires wrapped in one sleave.(obviously i have two left over for furture projects, mine as well run it if im in there already)
ok, for starters. to make this easier on me, i removed the back seat
two 12mm bolts hold the bottom seat in place
once the bottom half is out, there are three more 12mm bolts that hold the back of the seat in place. remove those
this is what it should look like with the seat removed
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/0c93e027-1.jpg
now to make it even easier, i completely removed the arm rest section of the back of the seat, simply four 10mm nuts and the arm rest will slide right out
once the arm rest is out, fold it down to reveal the back trap door that gives you access to your trunk (is there an actual name for that door? idk)
i took a piece of cardboard and traced the outline of the blue electrical box and cut it out so i had a small template. i then traced the outline onto the trap door in the area that i wanted the plug. i then took an exacto knife and cut the material away that i had outlined. once done with that, i lined the template up on the back side and repeated so that i would have the cloth removed on either side.
next comes the fun part.. cutting out the hole
now, idk if anyone was ever messed with that arm rest before, but did you know the internals of that trap door is sheet metal ! :shock:
and to boot its not flat.. its ridged and has holes punched out in it.. thankfully where i had lined up my template and cut the material worked out perfectly. i really dont think there would be a problem where you cut out the hole, cuz the metal is thin enough to work with if you had to flatten out the section you were working with.
i used my wizzer wheel to cut out the rectangle. it was kinda tricky for me to get it close to perfect because my wizzer wheel disk was bigger than the hole i was cutting it with. any kind of dremil or jig saw etc would do a really good job because the cuts are a little more controlled, but hey, its not a perfect world haha
once the hole is cut, line up your box and make sure it fits nice and snug. once youve got it where you want it, mark the two dots where the mounting plate will bolt to
your going to be drilling from the back (trunk) side of the door
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/bracket-1.jpg
once those two hole are marked, you can simply drill them out. now to stop the drill bit from going all the way through the metal AND the cloth material, i took the piece of metal that i had cut out, and slipped it between the front side and the material so when the bit passed through, it would stop before damaging the cloth
now slip your two machine screws throuh the holes, from the seat side of the door, its nice because theyre hidden under the materical (theres enough room to pull the fabric off the door to slip the bolts in)
once the box is bolted in snuggly, you can begin the wiring process. i took a two foot section of extension cord, put a male plug on one end and stuck the other end into one of the holes on the back of the blue box. (make sure u make the cord long enough comming out of the box so you can still fold down that trap door if you need to without pulling on the inverter) once through the hole, strip the wires and connect to your electrical outlet. install the outlet into the box, and place your cover on.
i believe its important to have one of those adjustable boxes because once i put the outlet cover on, it wasnt on tight enough against the trap door for my likings, so i moved it backwards a hair (simple twist of a screw driver)
so, now you have the hard part done, this is what it should look like
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/71bc6b13-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/aec280e7-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/393b6ca4-1.jpg
put the seat all back together and back into the car
(i ran the wire out of the trunk and down the back seat passenger side before i put the seat back in, just to make it a little easier)
time to wire
i ran my cord into the firewall above the brake pedal, under the dash, and then down the passenger side of the car under the kick plates next to the doors.
once i had my power to the trunk, i ran it into a relay. (which you can secure to the back of the trunk with a simple sheet metal screw). now, i was lazy and didnt really feel like putting a switch in, and i wanted the unit to power up and shut off when i got in and out of the car. so my solution was to use a relay and hook it up to the preamp for my subs amp. (smart idea huh)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/1844a2f7-1.jpg
that little blackish gray wire running up the side goes to the relay, now the preamp is a 12 volt signal, so all you have to do is ground the other side of the relay, and bam, you have your switch.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/4a1c2055-1.jpg
i used a piece of velcro (the hook side) and stuck it to the inverter. the hook side will latch right onto your carpet and keep the unit stationary
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/1124ac3d-1.jpg
now all you gotta do, is plug in the outlet and you've got power and not to mention a great topic of conversation next time someone gets into your back seat haha