View Full Version : Slow going to start...
Hey all, thanx for the info on this site!!! I just bought a 95 Legacy LS. I knew it had a slight problem so I got it for $300. It hesitates off the start, but when it's going passed a certain point, it runs swell. I just replaced the coil pack, wires, and plugs. Still has a stutter off the start. With a slight ping in the head. Idle is rough, no bad smoke...? I was hoping to get some opinions. I will trouble shoot engine codes tomorrow. Thanx
evolegacy
09-25-2010, 10:20 PM
slight plug in the head? dunno what you mean by that
I used to have a similar problem, went away when i replaced some vaccum lines and did my PCV valve, your best bet would be to check those out
green97gt
09-25-2010, 11:12 PM
ping as in detonation type ping, or valve clatter? mileage?
how bad is the hesitation? cleaned the MAF? some people, myself included have struggled with minor hesitation from a stop, the reason has been much debated, look into a grounding kit, they can be made for pretty cheap.
if the ping your describing is a missfire os some kind, that can cause rough idle, and a stutter at lower speeds, but can sometimes be hardly noticable at speed.
ping as in detonation type ping, or valve clatter? mileage?
how bad is the hesitation? cleaned the MAF? some people, myself included have struggled with minor hesitation from a stop, the reason has been much debated, look into a grounding kit, they can be made for pretty cheap.
if the ping your describing is a missfire os some kind, that can cause rough idle, and a stutter at lower speeds, but can sometimes be hardly noticable at speed.
The hesitation is fairly bad. But it clears up once you rev passed 1200-1500 RPM. It's got about 212,000 mi. on it. Haven't tried cleaning the Mass Air Flow yet, will do today. Will also shoot trouble codes today. This is more like a valve ping. Grounding kit? Enlighten me please.
ping as in detonation type ping, or valve clatter? mileage?
how bad is the hesitation? cleaned the MAF? some people, myself included have struggled with minor hesitation from a stop, the reason has been much debated, look into a grounding kit, they can be made for pretty cheap.
if the ping your describing is a missfire os some kind, that can cause rough idle, and a stutter at lower speeds, but can sometimes be hardly noticable at speed.
Well, what sucks is I'll probably have to have a code reader to shoot codes. The previous owner did say it was a "misfire" code, so... I'll be taking the alternator in for testing today. (gotta love how easy the removal of that was!!!) I will also replace the negative cable on the battery as it is causing corrosion. It's a new battery though. I did note that when I started it this morn, the idle was between 1100-1200 RPM's and worked it's way down, so I'm going to rule out the Idle Control Valve malfunctioning. I also spotted a bleeder valve on the left side on the radiator... If I'm correct, improper bleeding of air from the coolant system, or none at all, will cause unstable idle, and power problems. At least, that was the case with an Acura I owned, and a friend's BMW I fixed. So I will try bleeding the system just to double check.
On a side note: Will a valve tick cause the knock sensor to go off, therefore causing the ecu to do crazy things to compensate for the issue it "thinks" the car is having, actually throwing the timing off on a false "knock"? Are the valves adjustable on this, or self adjusting? Also, if this car did jump time, wouldn't there be some slack in the timing belt, causing a little slap, or play in it?
Thanks for everyone's help!
My alternator was bad, so I replaced it, however, that didn't fix my problem. All belts are tight, etc. Replaced the corroded ground wire, still nothing. Cleaned MAF and intake, nothing... Checked for vacuum leaks with brake cleaner, no change in idle while testing, so no vacuum leaks. I don't know what to do next. I will be changing valve covers next, so should I adjust valves while I'm in there? This car shudders when idling... I'll be checking timing sometime soon. I have no clue on the specs. Any fische available for downloading online?
subie/legacy
09-26-2010, 01:41 PM
95 legacy Ls with the original ej22?
if so then your valves are not adjustable.. your car has HLA (hydraulic lash adjusters).
one or more of your HLA may have seized or gone dry.
95 legacy Ls with the original ej22?
if so then your valves are not adjustable.. your car has HLA (hydraulic lash adjusters).
one or more of your HLA may have seized or gone dry.
Actually, My number 4 cylinder is gone, so I may have a burnt valve, or compromised head gasket. So I'll be checking when I get the driver's side head off tomorrow hopefully. I'll be replacing the timing belt while I'm at it, since I'm in there. Compression tests confirm this. 120+ on others, 50- on 4. I will see if the piston is burned or damaged when I pull the head.
I have a new situation! I can't get the harmonic balance pulley off! I have removed all the belts, both tensioners. How do I keep the pulley from spinning either way so I can take the nut off? I used vice grips and nearly ruined it. Also, we tried using stops in each cam pulley to remove the balancer nut, instead, the belt jumped 10 or so teeth. So.......... I know I'm still fixable from this point, but not sure how to approach this now. Can I just remove the head, timing belt, swap heads, then reset the cam sprockets by aligning marks, and timing marks? Damn, I'm confused now... lol Hadn't owned a Subaru since my 1976 Sedan DL. :P There is quite the difference!
green97gt
09-26-2010, 09:07 PM
does the 2.2 have the four holes in the crank pulley? like the 2.5 does? if so i had to make a home made holder tool to go into those holes and hold the pulley in place while i get on the bug 22mm nut with a bg breaker bar.
does the 2.2 have the four holes in the crank pulley? like the 2.5 does? if so i had to make a home made holder tool to go into those holes and hold the pulley in place while i get on the bug 22mm nut with a bg breaker bar.I was told to go through the transmission bell housing and to secure the flywheel. Now I just have to know how to start from scratch when it comes to timing marks and crank positions when I get the head replacement on. Also, isn't there a tensioner I need to replace when doing the timing belt? I didn't see any holes in the pulley btw.
Here's why no. 4 was misfiring...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/09/IMG_0794-1.jpg
green97gt
09-28-2010, 11:52 AM
ouch.
phi11
09-28-2010, 11:53 AM
wow
evolegacy
09-28-2010, 11:56 AM
O.O
Reason
09-28-2010, 12:06 PM
Is there a chunk missing from that valve??
Is there a chunk missing from that valve??I'd say so... lol looks like the one next to it was the next in line for disintegration. I checked for damage to the piston, and port, but didn't find any...
Baddog
09-29-2010, 02:23 PM
How does this happen? I don't want this to happen to my EJ22 :(
Huffer
09-29-2010, 02:44 PM
It's called extreme abuse and manufacturing defects.
Well, I have another motor to be put in, in a week or two. I managed to break a new headbolt off 4 in. into to the block. Broke an easy out in it trying to back it out... :( So I gotta great looking head (left side) with gasket for anyone in need... lol Anyhow, $325 for 2.2 w/109,000mi.
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