need help, loud bang coming from engine, car stalls at stop

[Cervantes]

i had my midpipe replaced and my downpipes replaced, now after 1 day the car wants to stall out when i come to a complete stop, and an extremely loud banging/clanking noise is coming from the center of the engine.

video to come

[Airgne]

what did you replace them with?

[Cervantes]

custom pipes

heres the video...ive been told its probably a spun bearing...i just changed the oil 3 weeos ago, but you cant even see it on the dip stick, so im pretty sure it is

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2010/10/th_IMGP1874-1.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e372/dj_likuidvibe/?action=view&current=IMGP1874.mp4)

[Cervantes]

could this be a possible exhaust leak?

['Buru in the Burgh]

damn that sounds awful

[2000gtb]

no thats more than an exaust leak.... really sounds to me that the motor is hurt... was like that when after you boosted or just normanl driving... I hate to tell you but it sounds like the internals

[02_Legacy]

i had my midpipe replaced and my downpipes replaced, now after 1 day the car wants to stall out when i come to a complete stop, and an extremely loud banging/clanking noise is coming from the center of the engine.

ive been told its probably a spun bearing...i just changed the oil 3 weeos ago, but you cant even see it on the dip stick, so im pretty sure it is

Who installed the exhaust. Maybe an oil line to the turbo was loosened, or pinched or something so it let the oil leak out. Is the oil light on?

[Cervantes]

i'm not really sure if it was while i was boosting or not.... it started like a hum, and within an hour and a half started t sound like that. the exhaust was installed where i had the pipes made.

[Cervantes]

the reason im not too sure about the spun bearing is that i just had the pipes put in...it just seems to make more sense since i just changed my oil

[decke48]

sound like a spun rod bearing. but since you said it started after custom exhaust work, make sure the pipes arent rapping against the body

[Cervantes]

yeah...my engine is done....just got back from the mechanic...


p.s. thank you

['Buru in the Burgh]

oh shit what exactly was wrong with it

[Cervantes]

i guess it was a spun bearing...it ran like a beast for a day though...im trying to see if i can find another engine

[rougeben83]

if the noise goes up with rpm's like that it's most likely rod bearing related...as to why it only started happening after you had the pipes put in, I'm not sure. Did you check your oil level after you got it back? They may have knocked an oil line loose during the install or it lost some oil and they retightened the hose but didn't bother to top it off...And if it was driven on low oil, especially if it was aggresively driven, then there goes your problem.

But yeah, that sucks, especially when you just put all that money into it on upgrades...

[Cervantes]

it was still registering on the dipstick when i check the oil. its only been a few weeks since i changed the oil...i got extremely lucky and found an engine to put in it already. hopefully it'll be back on the road in a few weeks.

[JunkerXL]

YEAH! glad to hear that. more turbo legs on the road = better :smile:



:smt020

[Cervantes]

wish me luck!

[rougeben83]

it was still registering on the dipstick when i check the oil. its only been a few weeks since i changed the oil...i got extremely lucky and found an engine to put in it already. hopefully it'll be back on the road in a few weeks.

sometime siht just happens, as they say. What oil were you using? Subaru recommends (though they only throw in a small glib about it in the FSM) going to higher weight oils the more aggressive you treat the engine. The "sport" and "race" type STI engine oils are like 5w40 and straight 50 or something like that respectively.

So the more aggressive you are in driving the car, you should at least be running a NON energy conserving 5w30 (which are becoming much rarer nowadays), or a thicker viscosity outright.

Here in the states, a lot of wrx's with spun bearings seem to have been using the regular synthetic Mobil 1, a very reputable oil, but is known to sheer down to a 20 weight oil over only a couple thousand miles in 5w30 weight.

[Cervantes]

i was using royal purple 5w30

[04Wagoon]

Just read this. kinda late since you figured it out, but it's definitely a spun bearing. mine sounds just like it....

video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=075a94Mjjws

its an 04WRX wagon. no power mods yet (they are all in the garage) stock boost level, very well taken care of, 126k miles.

[04Wagoon]

I was using Penzoil Platinum 5w/30 for about 2 years.. never seemed to have a problem..

[Cervantes]

i really think the oil cooler had something to do with it

[Reuben]

These suckers just go when they feel like it mate. Most common is within a few weeks of an oil change. Mine BEB'd 3 weeks after my first oil change while owning it.

[Cervantes]

after talking to the guy that's fixing my car, he's thinking the reason my engine crapped out on me is because my dumb ass used 5w 30 on my last oil change

[rougeben83]

after talking to the guy that's fixing my car, he's thinking the reason my engine crapped out on me is because my dumb ass used 5w 30 on my last oil change

Yeah, these engines just like thicker oil to begin with, and they are very sensitive to viscosity as you have found out.

For reference, STI puts out a line of motor oils for turbocharged cars, the "sport" one is like a 10w40 while the "racing" one is like straight 40 or 50 weight oil.

RP unfortunately tends to sheer down to a 20 weight after only a couple of thousand miles, there are a few UOA's on NASIOC and BITOG proving this point. Despite what the marketing says (which some US court has told them to stop publishing as some of it was false IIRC), I don't think theyre really designed for long-term use like on a street car application... remember that their oils are primarily designed for drag racing - where after a few passes, owners tend to change oil anyway.

[mike-tracy]

Yeah, the owner's manual calls for 10w30 in my 91 Legacy Turbo. I was reading that the Mazda RX8 is having reliability problems in the US because here they call for lighter weight oil (to comply with fuel economy & emission standards) than the rest of the world, which isn't having the problems to the same extent.

[Reuben]

I run castrol edge 10w-60 lol, but i have a built motor with forged pistons, and very large noisy clearances... But yes, it breaks down very quick. I'm told, the larger the spread in weights means it breaks down quicker. As a result, i change oil ever 5000k's/3000mi

[Yamazaki]

As a result, i change oil ever 5000k's/3000mi
I always thought that's the interval oil should be changed anyway... Do people wait longer?

[02_Legacy]

Do people wait longer?
I have always heard that you are supposed to change the oil every 3000mi unless you are running synthetic, in which case you can wait 5000-7000mi.

[Cervantes]

after talking to the guy that's fixing my car, he's thinking the reason my engine crapped out on me is because my dumb ass used 5w 30 on my last oil change

Yeah, these engines just like thicker oil to begin with, and they are very sensitive to viscosity as you have found out.

For reference, STI puts out a line of motor oils for turbocharged cars, the "sport" one is like a 10w40 while the "racing" one is like straight 40 or 50 weight oil.

RP unfortunately tends to sheer down to a 20 weight after only a couple of thousand miles, there are a few UOA's on NASIOC and BITOG proving this point. Despite what the marketing says (which some US court has told them to stop publishing as some of it was false IIRC), I don't think theyre really designed for long-term use like on a street car application... remember that their oils are primarily designed for drag racing - where after a few passes, owners tend to change oil anyway.


man...talk about learning the hard way...with the hot and humid temps here, i thought i was doing right by my car

[rougeben83]

Do people wait longer?
I have always heard that you are supposed to change the oil every 3000mi unless you are running synthetic, in which case you can wait 5000-7000mi.

On turbocharged cars, subaru says to stick to the "severe duty" schedule which is oil change ever 3750mi, they don't state any difference between dino or synth. On N/A cars you can still use the different duty schedules based on your specific conditions.

The only way I would comfortably say with certainty that I can go on a longer oil change interval is with a UOA...it's not that expensive either, $25 for a basic one, which is about the cost of one oil change.

[Cervantes]

car is finally fixed...doesnt pull as hard as it did with the other engine though....same engine, so i dont know why. maybe thatll keep me from blowing it up again.

[Robbks]

ok to keep the new engine in one piece here's a few tips from a fellow JDM TT owner

#1, Oiled Pod filters are bad (i still have one, but i clean my MAF frequently)
the oil comes out of them and coats the airflow metre (MAF) the ECU cannot properly meter the air coming in, they usually run lean as a result and destroy engines through big-end bearing failure (your old motor)

#2 get some "Electrical Contact Cleaner" (non-residue) and clean your MAF
i.e remove the Pod and MAF housing from the car, and spray the MAF with the cleaner a few times, liberally, leave to dry off for a few minutes and re-install

#3 ensure you're using the highest octane fuel available, yes you will pay more and it's not as freely available, but JDM cars are tuned aggressively for high octane fuels that are available in Japan, engines will suffer from bad detonation and blow big ends if you don;t.

#4 get the stock ECU re-tuned to suit the boost levels you wish to run and the fuel you have available.
JDM cars usually run very rich so a re-tune can get you some economy while making the tune much safer for the engine, mods, fuel etc.

and i run a 10W40 semi-synthetic oil (Castrol Magnatec) in my subies and always have. changed at 5000km (3000mi)
try to use an oil with high level of detergents (turns black very quickly) which helps flush any junk out of the bearings and other components.
a diesel-engine oil is well suited for this purpose aswell

[Cervantes]

wow! thanks! i'm getting a tune as soon as i get back on track financially. this engine swap cost me a pretty penny.

[Robbks]

Good to hear.

for now, try to keep the boost down a little too.. :D

[Awfiretto]

Ya. So I just had to limp my car back home here tonight.

Same exact thing. Watched the video. Identical sound.

Just posted about it too and then sumbled on this. Go figure.

I love this site. No I know that the engines toast. Most likely bc the salesman didnt put high octane in it. I literrally did 2 pulls. One from 0 - 100 and another from 80 to 140ish.

And within 5km I was on the side of the road stuck.

Pissed bc just got the car today. It's so pretty. Black B4 RSK lowered exhaust and in ultra clean shape. I just want to scream right now. But I am extremely thankful that it's under warranty.

[Cervantes]

i'm in okinawa too! too bad about the engine...i dont really think the fuel grade has a whole lot to do with that issue, but i could be wrong. it couldve been ran w/out the right oil, or w/out much oil at all. how high were you boosting?

[Awfiretto]

I mean I did three pulls. One on to the express way. And two on the expressway. It was late at night. No one out. You get the picture. But literally it was pulling steady and then I turned around to come back down the exp way and I hear the tapping that turns really loud and the engine dies.

The engine was stock from what I know and there isn't a boost gauge so I d k the exact boost. If that helps any. But it was WOT for about 30 40 seconds.

[Brollah]

From past experience (I've had 3 BG5a's), the twin turbo motor can pop a bottom end usually aroud the 60,000 mile mark, regardless of it's strain. My 3 at least seem to just be prone to it at that sort of milage. Fortunately only lost one crankshaft out of it, literally stop the second the "clang" begins, and you might be lucky enough to only need a bearing replacement. Still costly, but those damn cranks are pricey as hell.

The "long slow drive home" is usually what does the bulk of the financial damage, so don't be tempted in future to limp it home :D

[rougeben83]

I mean I did three pulls. One on to the express way. And two on the expressway. It was late at night. No one out. You get the picture. But literally it was pulling steady and then I turned around to come back down the exp way and I hear the tapping that turns really loud and the engine dies.

The engine was stock from what I know and there isn't a boost gauge so I d k the exact boost. If that helps any. But it was WOT for about 30 40 seconds.

ouch, that sucks to hear. It's probably a combination of things that did it, low octane, unknown oil quantity/quality (you really do need to check oil levels at each gas stop with these cars...they can consume x oil but not with y oil even if theyre both the same grade), and spirited driving of any sort...