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LegacyGT97
12-11-2010, 12:58 AM
Well, here is the deal gentlemen.
I have had some recent over heating, and have been blowing through about a liter of coolant every 2 days.
My father, who is a mechanic of 25+ years, cannot seem to find any coolant leaks.
There is also no coolant in the oil. When I pull the dipstick its just perfect clean fresh oil.
So we came to the conclusion that either the head is cracked, or the head gasket is gone. And that any coolant is being pushed out through the exhaust.

With the amount of time it would take the pull the motor and figure out if its the head gasket or the head that are screwed, and then to get new gaskets/get a new head and have it machined, and then finally installed. We are thinking of finding a low KM used motor around where I live and doing a direct swap across one weekend.

So since the newish engine will be in my hands for a few weeks prior to install is there anything we should do to it before it goes back in? Were thinking new timing belt right off the bat, then obviously new oil filter. But is there anything else?

Perkul8r
12-11-2010, 01:16 AM
From what everyone has been telling me, depending on the miles on the motor it may be a good idea just to swap the head gaskets right away. I know what you are going through right now. My Outback needs the head gaskets replaced.

Whenever i have gotten a new car, i have always tried to do at least timing belt, timing belt idlers if needed, water pump, and what ever else i can change while there. That way you know its gonna last a while.

LegacyGT97
12-11-2010, 01:21 AM
Forgot to add that the car has 192,000 Kms.

Perkul8r
12-11-2010, 01:38 AM
If the conversion calculator was right that would be around 119,000 miles. Now i am not sure about up in Canada, but here the 95-99(correct me if i am wrong on the years) had major issues with head gaskets. Some of them popping as early as 60,000 miles or sooner. So far, from what i can tell, my 97 Outback has 229,000 on it and never had the head gaskets changed. At least the person i bought it from never had them changed.

So you may be alright not changing them. I am sure someone else on here with alot more experience on the head gasket thing will chime in soon.

LegacyGT97
12-12-2010, 11:00 PM
Turns out the coolant is leaking into the intake, then being forced back up to the overflow reservoir and then being pushed out the cap. Engine shopping tomorrow as it would be cheaper to just get a good used motor for it.

ouch1011
12-12-2010, 11:56 PM
I would reseal the engine before installing it, including the head gaskets. Also install the updated oil separator plate.

LegacyGT97
12-15-2010, 04:14 AM
Found an engine out of a 1999 Legacy GT.

Its a 2.5L twin cam with only 115,000 KM's on it, and it only cost me $700 Canadian.
My uncle is picking it up tomorrow, and my dad plans to have the old motor out and new motor in, in one day.
Were getting a new water pump and timing belt for the new motor before install.

ShadowGT
12-15-2010, 10:39 PM
Found an engine out of a 1999 Legacy GT.

Its a 2.5L twin cam with only 115,000 KM's on it, and it only cost me $700 Canadian.
My uncle is picking it up tomorrow, and my dad plans to have the old motor out and new motor in, in one day.
Were getting a new water pump and timing belt for the new motor before install.

Change out the headgaskets while it's out of the car. Just piece of mind before something bad happens.

LegacyGT97
12-16-2010, 12:11 AM
New head gasket set through my dads shop is still $250. I'm already spending quite a bit of money on this engine and can't afford to spend anymore at this time of the year. With rent, insurance, and Christmas I will be just scraping by.

My question to you all is, will a 1997 intake bolt right onto a 1999 motor? My ignition off my 1997 motor bolts on with 4 bolts, where ass the ignition on a 1999 bolts on with 4 bolts. Would it just be best to bolt my ignition on with 3 bolts? or spend the time and swap intakes over?

As it stands right now we are going to replace the following parts on the new engine:
Timing belt
Serpentine belt
Water pump
Valve cover gaskets
Spark plugs
Thermostat

green97gt
12-16-2010, 04:22 AM
My ignition off my 1997 motor bolts on with 4 bolts, where ass the ignition on a 1999 bolts on with 4 bolts.

oh yeah?

on my 99 i think it has 3 bolts, and the 97 has 4 i dont see why it would be a problem. leave it as is.

you say twin cam, as in, dohc right? a total of 4 cams? make sure, otherwise you willl run into issues.

chuckthefuk
12-16-2010, 01:43 PM
I had the same overheating issue with my first BD GT.. the head gasket was gone but only to a point where the coolant would leak into the cylinder and burn away.. no milky oil-coolant.. no smoke,... just coolant disappearing...

You can interchange 96-97 EJ25D's with 98-99 you just have to swap the entire intake manifold to keep the sensors and evap system within the proper year..

May I suggest 1 major mod to add to your preventative measures.. Purchase ARP head studs.. under load your heads tend to lift a bit and that leads to head gasket failure.. ARP head studs are bullet proof and guaranteed to hold your head down to a 300-400HP which is overkill for you, but peace of mind is a great thing to have and the stud kit cost less then $100 off ebay or locals..

-Chuck

LegacyGT97
12-16-2010, 02:06 PM
My ignition off my 1997 motor bolts on with 4 bolts, where ass the ignition on a 1999 bolts on with 4 bolts.

oh yeah?

on my 99 i think it has 3 bolts, and the 97 has 4 i dont see why it would be a problem. leave it as is.

you say twin cam, as in, dohc right? a total of 4 cams? make sure, otherwise you willl run into issues.

I'd just like to take a moment and laugh at my poor spelling of 'as'.

Yes, sorry, it is a dohc.

Thanks the the suggestions.
I will be spending new years eve pulling the motor out of my car, and then new years day putting the new motor back in. If worse comes to worse we will need the sunday to finish up all the small things and get it running again.

As for right now I can drive the car for about 20 minutes before it overheats. Needless to say I'm making my trips worth while.

jey
12-17-2010, 07:35 PM
Don't worry about the 3 vs. 4 bolts for the ignition coil pack.

LegacyGT97
12-19-2010, 01:16 AM
We are fast forwarding our plans. We are starting Monday December 27th early in the AM. In hopes to have the old engine full out, parts swapped across to the new one, and be in preparation to install. If not already be installing.

So far my expenses have been:
$784 for motor
$96 for my uncle to pick it up
$7 Intake manifold
$185 for timing belt and water pump
Coolant that I get for like nothing
as well as oil that I get for nothing as well.

Still have to get:
Serpentine belt
and a few new hoses.

Huffer
12-19-2010, 11:16 AM
You should maybe see if you can squeeze in a few upgrades like a light weight crank pulley, alternator and power steering pullies.
Makes for a peppy motor, and you use stock sized belts.

LegacyGT97
12-20-2010, 03:56 PM
If I had the money to spare I would definitely do those upgrades.
I'm hurting for cash right now. So badly that I'm selling my sub and amp.

I also had to sell my row 4 tickets to Bon Jovi as well :(

LegacyGT97
12-23-2010, 03:06 AM
Alright, engine is in and running!
Have a few slight tweaks to work on but it runs like a champ!

I have a check engine light right now and when scanned it comes up with "Map sensor".
Anyone know what that is? and how to correct it?

Custom Trendz Inc.
12-24-2010, 10:00 PM
i believe you dont have a map sensor, only 3rd gens started using map? But the other sensor you should have is the MAF which is connected to the airbox between the intake.

ouch1011
12-27-2010, 02:51 AM
The phase 1 2.5s use a MAP sensor for the barometric pressure sensor and as feedback to check EGR operation, its over near the airbox. Make sure the vacuum line is hooked up on both ends and that the sensor is plugged in.

green97gt
12-28-2010, 10:18 PM
I have a check engine light right now and when scanned it comes up with "Map sensor".

scanners will never comeback with "map sensor" or "crank sensor"

the exact code will help here.

i have p0104..i think..which was the baro sensor, on the pass side strut tower..

ended up just rediong all the rubber in the vacuum system, problem solved.

LegacyGT97
12-29-2010, 01:56 PM
My error code is P0106.
All my vacume lines are basically brand new. I'm thinking I may just have to replace the MAF Sensor. If that doesn't work I will return it and look at further routes.

jey
12-29-2010, 03:18 PM
P106 does not refer to the MAF by the way...

LegacyGT97
12-29-2010, 11:39 PM
P0100 - MAF Sensor Circuit Insufficient Activity
P0101 - Mass Air Flow System Performance
P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0103 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High Frequency
P0104 - Mass Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Insufficient Activity
P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure System Performance
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0109 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Intermittent

For some reason it pops up as MAP Sensor error.
My Legacy has a MAF Sensor.
P0106 is my error code and it is: P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure System Performance

jey
12-31-2010, 09:50 PM
It also has a pressure sensor, which is located on the passenger side strut tower and green97gt has already said.