So, My Leggy... **UPDATE 3/29/2013 My Luck and Parts!

[LGTtoBE]

New plan for the Engine. See latest plans.

So, I WAS planning on having my new block ready before KABOOM!!!! But sadly... (see latest post)

NEW UPDATED PLANS:
EJ251 Short Block (GOT IT)
EJ25D HLA Heads (GOT EM)
11044AA632 .7mm Head Gasket (should provide 10.4:1 compression)
Delta Stage 2 cams
Flat-faced exhaust valves
Port and Polish
Custom exhaust (hopefully to include some 4zero1 pieces)
Upgraded water and oil pumps (GOT EM AND AN OIL COOLER)
The rest is all just add-on/external



May happen later on:
Neon upgraded coil conversion
Kartboy crank pulley
I'm looking for the best piggy back management I can get for $400 or less (if a good one exists)[/b]
[/color]
This is going to be a very lengthy build as (of course) I'm not made of money and will be doing the bulk of the work on my own.
I've done an awful lot of reading on these boards and this seems it will be a fairly reliable build. I'd really hope to see an increase of 35+ crank hp from this. Does anyone know if that is a reasonable number?

I would appreciate input unless it includes the terms: Swap, Sti, WRX, turbo, EJ257 (because it's not happening PERIOD)

[chuckthefuk]

Wow what a list.. building a bullet proof N/A daily monster.

The cams and port / polish should give you at least 15-20 but its all in the tune at that point..

Your best bet if your serious is PP6 piggyback..

Good luck with your build.
-Chuck

[LGTtoBE]

That's the idea anyway!
PP6 eh? I'll check that out!

Thanks. I'll eventually start a DIY/Build thread just for this.

[MikeyMeyagi]

if you want more flow, look into the 96 25D HLA heads, huge ports and a different combustion chamber shape. Lower compression though, 53cc chambers vs 46.7cc of the 97-99 25D heads.

[Huffer]

Thread moved to naturally aspirated.

[LGTtoBE]

Well, I finally received my JDM EJ25. Along with the obvious intake manifold and EGR mods, I'll be replacing the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, head gaskets (and bolts of course) and clutch!
It's all here and ready to go (finally)
I'll also be installing my new JDM projector fogs and sidemarkers at the same time.

This IS going to be a LONG project.
I still have to get the 3rds in my 4Runner re-geared and get the A6 on the road all at the same time.

I'll try to keep updating (though it may be slow). I'll add pics as I'm working on it.

[csweston]

Looks like its going to be a good build! Cant wait to see get started.

[chuckthefuk]

wow thats a full plate for sure

good luck post updates!

[anothernord]

Emanage Ultimate > PP6. I've used both. The trick is finding an Emanage for under $400, you'll have to do some looking.

[Grafton]

don't forget that the cams are not cheap for the 25d, ~600 because you need special valves or material welded onto the cam

[rougeben83]

ditch the lower thermostat. Honestly, youre doing your engine no favors by not getting the oil up to the right operating temp where it can do the most work in lubrication. You'll lose more weight by going with a lightweight flywheel vs. a crank pulley. Do fw or both, but not the crank if you have to chose between the two.

From the cams and bolt-ons alone, that's roughly 200bhp from what people have have done with 2.5RS's so youre in the ballpark even without the thousand dollar bling valvetrain parts from TWE.

[Grafton]

Delta Cams (add/grind) stage II have them do the welding VS getting the long valves
Tech Works Ti valve springs/retainers (possibly the shim under bucket conversion) are you raising the red line?
NEED VALVE SUGGESTIONS find flat faced valves and have a 5 angle job done, stock is 3 angle + the flat face bumps compression
ARP head stud kit
Subaru HG (part no. 11044AA610)
FAST MOTORSPORTS 170 Thermostat! eh this just lowers the "normal" temp of your engine not the running hard high temp
Port and polish (the most ridiculously expensive portion, and believe me; I'm looking for a deal) do it yourself and save money
Tech Works 11.2:1 pistons
Eagle forged connecting rods (stock length of course)
Cosworth main and rod bearings overpriced ACL's just get some acl bearing's coated
STi crank you'll need to have the block machined for the #5 thrust OR just swap a phase 2 block in saves you from the crazy machining
Neon upgraded coil conversion adjust the plug gap to take advantage of the upgraded coil
Kartboy crank pulley like rouge said go with a LW flywheel instead
HD timing belt
exhausting it all through a 2.25in. stainless tubing (high flow cat optional) no difference on dyno between high-flow cat and track pipe
I'm looking for the best piggy back management I can get for $400 or less (if a good one exists)

This is going to be a very lengthy build as (of course) I'm not made of money and will be doing the bulk of the work on my own.
I've done an awful lot of reading on these boards and this seems it will be a fairly reliable build. I'd really hope to see an increase of 35+ crank hp from this. Does anyone know if that is a reasonable number?

I would appreciate input unless it includes the terms: Swap, Sti, WRX, turbo, EJ257 (because it's not happening PERIOD)


my suggestions in red

things to add:
oem oil cooler/turbo water pump
upgraded radiator
manifold spacers
TWE headers
upgraded clutch

[LGTtoBE]

Delta Cams (add/grind) stage II have them do the welding VS getting the long valves I figured on the welding (what I called add/grind)
Tech Works Ti valve springs/retainers (possibly the shim under bucket conversion) are you raising the red line? For Safety's sake I thought it may help but if it's unnecessary I'll leave it out.
NEED VALVE SUGGESTIONS find flat faced valves and have a 5 angle job done, stock is 3 angle + the flat face bumps compression Ok... that's not something I considered. But I'll look into it.
ARP head stud kit
Subaru HG (part no. 11044AA610)
FAST MOTORSPORTS 170 Thermostat! eh this just lowers the "normal" temp of your engine not the running hard high temp My idea with this was to prevent the thermostat from being stuck in the "closed" position. My understanding was that this thermostat will default to "open" to allow the coolant to continue to flow and cool instead of warping heads etc.
Port and polish (the most ridiculously expensive portion, and believe me; I'm looking for a deal) do it yourself and save money Now I know that you have the skill to do it but I don't know what I'm really getting myself into...
Tech Works 11.2:1 pistons
Eagle forged connecting rods (stock length of course)
Cosworth main and rod bearings overpriced ACL's just get some acl bearing's coated Oh yeah?
STi crank you'll need to have the block machined for the #5 thrust OR just swap a phase 2 block in saves you from the crazy machining I'd consider the phase 2 block swap but I have no idea what I kind of $ I'd be looking at on the machining or the block.
Neon upgraded coil conversion adjust the plug gap to take advantage of the upgraded coil Spec for gap?
Kartboy crank pulley like rouge said go with a LW flywheel instead I've been told just don't do both... and what sort of adverse effects might the lightened flywheel have?
HD timing belt
exhausting it all through a 2.25in. stainless tubing (high flow cat optional) no difference on dyno between high-flow cat and track pipe High Flow cat it is... I have VEIP here in Maryland to deal with
I'm looking for the best piggy back management I can get for $400 or less (if a good one exists)

This is going to be a very lengthy build as (of course) I'm not made of money and will be doing the bulk of the work on my own.
I've done an awful lot of reading on these boards and this seems it will be a fairly reliable build. I'd really hope to see an increase of 35+ crank hp from this. Does anyone know if that is a reasonable number?

I would appreciate input unless it includes the terms: Swap, Sti, WRX, turbo, EJ257 (because it's not happening PERIOD)


my suggestions in red

things to add:
oem oil cooler/turbo water pump (I'd say that sounds like a wise investment)
upgraded radiator (who makes one though?!? or should I look for a "universal" with the right size and inlet/outlet locations and figure mounting out on my own?)
manifold spacers (was wondering if this would make any sort of significant difference. the $ is negligible in the overall scheme of things)
TWE headers (just because they're EL? and is it really a 7hp difference in UEL and EL?)
upgraded clutch (that's also part of the plan. I hate how everyone labels clutches in stages but very few companies provide you with any torque and "holding" numbers to make sense of their ratings. Most list HP and that is kind of relative taking things like vehicle weight, and drivetrain efficiency into account, correct?)

Hey Graf,
I've read through your thread(s) and looked at some of your videos in prep for this project.
Check out the green? I'll take any advice I can get when it comes to NA build tips.

[Grafton]

Hey Graf,
I've read through your thread(s) and looked at some of your videos in prep for this project.
Check out the green? I'll take any advice I can get when it comes to NA build tips.

props for researching!

just because they're EL? and is it really a 7hp difference in UEL and EL? there is supposed to be a lot more "non peak" power aka a wider and healthier powerband up to 15hp pre-peak

upgraded clutch I was just thinking non-oem level replacement.

adverse effects might the lightened flywheel have? in combo with pulley can cause misfire codes, the rev's change much quicker than stock, potential nvh increase

Spec for gap? trial and error start stock and then adjust bigger in increments with a bit of driving between adjustments you'll get to a place where you have misfires you've gone too big and need to dial it back a few steps to account for wear

Oh yeah? yeah when ACL's were out of stock everywhere so were cosworth's and someone came out and said it on nasioc


BTW I was sooo tempted to just go with purple and add to what was there... :D

[LGTtoBE]

I finally began tearing-down of the temporary EJ25.

I was surprised to find so many differences in the accessories attached to it.
I was aware of the intake manifold (and lack of an EGR system) but unaware of the differences in the power steering pump, and A/C compressor. Also I didn't know that there was a slightly different configuration for the thermostat.

I haven't removed the pulleys, cams or heads yet b/c I'm still trying to find bolts to get it onto my engine stand. (can't figure the size or pitch... 10mm 1.5 is what I thought but they didn't work) ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?


Here's a couple of pics of what was done. (I'll post a couple more later)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG00459201103091551-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG00520201104091433-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG00521201104100049-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG00522201104100049-1.jpg

[02_Legacy]

I haven't removed the pulleys, cams or heads yet b/c I'm still trying to find bolts to get it onto my engine stand. (can't figure the size or pitch... 10mm 1.5 is what I thought but they didn't work) ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?
grab one of the tranny bolts and bring it to the hardware store so you can match the size and thread pich, plus they should have some gauges there that you can use.

[Grafton]

or use the transmission bolts plus the 2 studs on the bottom, works great for me :D

[LGTtoBE]

just a few pics of the SLOWEST automotive project I've EVER undertaken

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/IMG00733201107161103small-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/IMG00731201107161058small-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/IMG00729201107161036small-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/IMG00724201107160951small-1.jpg

[4U2Envy]

I plan on doing a similar build next year and am very interested in your results, keep the updates coming :smt023

[rougeben83]

If you have a BE, you can use any of the aftermarket radiators made for the GD WRX. I have a Megan 2 row in mine.

[LGTtoBE]

Took me a while but the temp engine is back together and may just get dropped-in the leggy tonight.

Here's a pic.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMG01169201109261814resized-1.jpg



And for those of you that have purchased an earlier model EJ25... you'll want to replace the 2 pc belt tensioner with the 1 pc and have to order the new belt tensioner bracket (Subaru Part # 13156AA041). Along with that you'll be converting to the new water pump style and therefore have to trim the timing cover to clear the pump housing (highlighted below).

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/Highlighttrimarea-1.jpg


I've been slacking on this project but hopefully we can get to the good and fun stuff (the NEW build) soon!

[LGTtoBE]

The engine is in!

Still have to put the new plug wires on (as soon as I can find them). Put on old wires to try and start it but no luck. The heat in cyl #2 was so great that it partially melted and cracked the plastic boot/tube on the wire. Little concerned about the HLA's too.
I really hope I can get this thing running soon. I wish I could find a fellow Subaru enthusiast in the area to just bounce idea's off of.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMG01248201110151056-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMG01253201110151237-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMG01254201110151237-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMG01255201110151237-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMG01262201110151515-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMG01263201110161315-1.jpg

NEXT STEP: Make it run.
after that I can finally tear into a serious build.

[TGX4776]

where are you located?

[LGTtoBE]

Odenton, MD not exactly down the street....

[TGX4776]

lol noooo there are some pretty smart guys with a shop in Winchester, VA that i would recommend talking to. One's a DSM guy from florida and the other is a Subaru guy. they dont have a shop name yet but if you want i can get you their number

[LGTtoBE]

sure! that would be great. Want to PM it to me?

[TGX4776]

sure i'll do it soon

[LGTtoBE]

I DESPERATELY NEED HELP!!!!!!

At this point I don't have an operable vehicle to my name. (that's what I get for having 2 in "project phase" and having the 3rd develop a mechanical issue.)

So, I've found that I have compression, AIR, FUEL, and Spark (even replaced my coil when 2 and 4 didn't seem to fire). I am soooo frustrated!!! My concerns come with these HLA heads, crank and cam position sensors.
My next step [I guess] is to check that all of my timing marks still line up (I don't see how they would have changed.).
The engine turns with the starter and a constant "normal" cranking sound and will begin to "catch" (as if it's going to start) any where from 1 to 3 times in a row but never actually starts.

If somehow the timing was out sooo much that it wouldn't start wouldn't there be valve interference?!?!? From what I understand you can have these engines out about 13 degrees before interference though... Is there an "in-between" where the timing is out enough to NOT allow it to run but also within 13 degrees (as to NOT cause interference)?

[LGTtoBE]

On a side note: I've begun tearing into the pulled engine

[r3v_v3ng3]

when i rebuilt my ej25 phase 2 block with a 25d heads, i had the same problem starting it. Turns out that i had to use the arrow indicator on the crank gear to line up with the notch instead of the line. When i rebuilt my friends ej251, you have to use the line.

[LGTtoBE]

when i rebuilt my ej25 phase 2 block with a 25d heads, i had the same problem starting it. Turns out that i had to use the arrow indicator on the crank gear to line up with the notch instead of the line. When i rebuilt my friends ej251, you have to use the line.

When I saw your comment, I didn't understand what you were talking about at first... And then I realized that some of the crank sprockets have both an arrow and a line (much like the camshaft sprockets). Wouldn't that have damaged your valves though?!?!? It would put the crankshaft about 90 degrees out!

[LGTtoBE]

Well...
I was getting P0336 on the scanner (Crankshaft position sensor).
Pulled another from the other engine and voila! It runs! Cleared the code and CEL is gone and no more codes have shown-up (fingers crossed).
Filling and bleeding the cooling system tonight and we shall see.

[Huffer]

Hooray! :)

Should put in your profile where your location is... and make a signature for yourself too.

[r3v_v3ng3]

Well...
I was getting P0336 on the scanner (Crankshaft position sensor).
Pulled another from the other engine and voila! It runs! Cleared the code and CEL is gone and no more codes have shown-up (fingers crossed).
Filling and bleeding the cooling system tonight and we shall see.


What did you end up doing to get it started?

[LGTtoBE]

What did you end up doing to get it started?

just swapped the crank position sensor and ensured the connection and clearance were good.

[LGTtoBE]

if you want more flow, look into the 96 25D HLA heads, huge ports and a different combustion chamber shape. Lower compression though, 53cc chambers vs 46.7cc of the 97-99 25D heads.


So,
I've been thinking. (dangerous, I know).
What if I DID use the HLA heads and went with the TWE 11.2:1 pistons and flat-faced valves? I have NO idea how to calculate the projected compression...

I need advice and some experiential knowledge. What should I consider if using these? I have a set of them.

[LGTtoBE]

I've got an annoying exhaust leak that I'm having trouble locating!!!
I believe it may be from that pesky EGR tube (going to replace it with "soft" copper). I'll have a buddy of mine flare the ends for me.
Everything is running fine. Though, I have a CEL that comes up (P0141). I was wondering if the lower temp thermostat that I'm using may have any effect on this?
The following is quoted from OBD-Codes.c*m:

"This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 1 decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141.
Symptoms
You will likely notice poor fuel economy the illumination of the Check Engine Light.
Causes
A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
open or short to ground in the wiring harness
O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
O2 heater element resistance is high
Internal short or open in the heater element"



Also, does anyone have a P/S pump (or just a pump pulley)? I need the pulley that fits the HLA gen EJ25D's (there appears to be a small change in fitment of the shaft/splines that came along with the non-HLA headed engines). I have the older style pump and the pulley is a little out-of-true. I noticed that all of the companies that used to produce the 3 pulley kits don't seem to anymore (as this fitment issue must have caused some grief for people).

Anyway... here's a pic just because:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMG01296201111012150-1.jpg

[LGTtoBE]

Yesterday, my STOCK crank pulley took a dump/exploded and took-out my crankshaft and oil pan in the process. It appears to have spun-on the end of the shaft and ripped the woodruf key partially out. I'm going to see if removing the crank gear and then replacing that along with a new woodruf key and crank pulley will do anything for me. My fear is that I'll need a new crank. I have one in my old knocking EJ25D but an unsure of its usefulness.

I desperately need to find a machine-shop to have them check-out my heads and block from the old motor. I want to start re-building but don't want to waste time if they're trashed.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/IMG_0417-1.jpg

[chuckthefuk]

:-o

[r3v_v3ng3]

Yesterday, my STOCK crank pulley took a dump/exploded and took-out my crankshaft and oil pan in the process. It appears to have spun-on the end of the shaft and ripped the woodruf key partially out. I'm going to see if removing the crank gear and then replacing that along with a new woodruf key and crank pulley will do anything for me. My fear is that I'll need a new crank. I have one in my old knocking EJ25D but an unsure of its usefulness.

I desperately need to find a machine-shop to have them check-out my heads and block from the old motor. I want to start re-building but don't want to waste time if they're trashed.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/IMG_0417-1.jpg

:shock:
looks like when it crapped out, it welded the gear on the crank. Hope you can salvage it

[harrymaneuvers]

Yikes... This happened to me when my Crank Pulley came off while driving highway speeds.


viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19026 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19026)

[LGTtoBE]

Yikes... This happened to me when my Crank Pulley came off while driving highway speeds.


viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19026 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19026)

Well I'm hoping that when I replace the woodruf key that I can get the pulley to stay on...

I've now heard that I should really consider replacing my multi-piece crank pulley with a solid one. Have any advice? (I see that's what you did)

[Hinyo]

That JUST happened to me except the other way around mine ate the pulley and didn't damage the crank shaft.... than the engine went... head gaskets a second time... got a new JDM installed.... but at the time I was able to just replace the key with a new one and went and got a new timing key but timing pulley from the junkyard and it fit and sat just fine

[LGTtoBE]

Well... I was able to remove my crank/timing sprocket finally!!! And, I believe I'll be able to put the new sprocket, key, and pulley back on without issue. BUT the bolt that holds it all in place broke off inside the shaft. I'm going to try and use an extractor but I'm worried that the bolt is hardened... So, what are my options if it doesn't work? Any suggestions?

[chuckthefuk]

Drill & Tap

[LGTtoBE]

Drill & Tap

Well I have to drill to get the extractor in there... I'm just hoping I CAN drill into that bolt ya know?

[chuckthefuk]

Yes I understand.. if you fail at extracting then you must drill the entire bolt out and re tap the threads.... good luck..

[LGTtoBE]

Yes I understand.. if you fail at extracting then you must drill the entire bolt out and re tap the threads.... good luck..


Gotcha... That's an unpleasant proposition but still much better than the alternative of new crank and rebuilding the temporary engine!

[chuckthefuk]

Post pictures... its worth a 1000 posts!

[LGTtoBE]

Post pictures... its worth a 1000 posts!

I was able to extract the crank bolt!!!
I'm putting her back together tonight and will post some pics.

[LGTtoBE]

Just a couple of the broken bolt pics. (Keep in mind that this bolt was INSIDE the crankshaft where it was essentially invisible).

Waiting on a lightweight crank pulley.
Have a CEL or 2 but haven't had it checked yet (my scanner no longer works)

AND...
when the pulley bounced up from the roadway it dented my oil pan (no leaks thankfully) and wrecked an exhaust heat shield. Needless to say she sounds like ASS and will continue to until I rip the offending shield off tonight.

bolt from the top (what I drilled into)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/IMG_0439r-1.jpg

bolt from the side (how much was left in the shaft)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/IMG_0437r-1.jpg

replacement crank sprocket! (note the scoring on the shaft nub from the old pulley...)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/IMG_0436r-1.jpg

Maybe this weekend I can actually get around to finishing my lights :oops:

[Hinyo]

JDM projectors?

[LGTtoBE]

JDM projectors?

yep! (fogs and sidemarkers too)

[chuckthefuk]

the fogs are the best mod for corners :-D I love the angled bulbs :-D

[LGTtoBE]

the fogs are the best mod for corners :-D I love the angled bulbs :-D

Yeah I'm looking forward to having them in place but I'm NOT looking forward to modding (read: hacking) my bumper. I wish I could afford a GT-B bumper and beam lol

[chuckthefuk]

just think of it as weight reduction.. The USDM bumper skin is so heavy compared to a standard JDM bumper :-(

[Hinyo]

If you want some help i can being a hand or two lol. i wired up mine so my highs low and fogs can all be on at the same time =) VERY easy to do

[LGTtoBE]

If you want some help i can being a hand or two lol. i wired up mine so my highs low and fogs can all be on at the same time =) VERY easy to do

That would be cool. I may look at doing them next Saturday...

[LGTtoBE]

I love it when she's clean!!!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/rrviewclean-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/frtviewclean-1.jpg

[LGTtoBE]

I thought that I had posted pictures of these already but...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/409280_10150661492571171_1435257937_n-1.jpg

[r3v_v3ng3]

Glad you got it back running. Nice collection of jdm front/side lights, Guessing the taillights are coming soon?

[LGTtoBE]

Glad you got it back running. Nice collection of jdm front/side lights, Guessing the taillights are coming soon?

I DO love the look of the non-amber lenses for the rear...
I wish that the AU BD's had a center piece that said "Liberty" (like the JDM says Legacy) because I'd love one of those lol

But I probably won't get the tails. The projectors were purchased more for an increase in lighting performance and less for aesthetics. (the side marker's were a deal that couldn't be beat though lol)

[LGTtoBE]

I see someone has purchased another one of my BD LGT shirts on ZAZZLE!
Thanks for the support!

[LGTtoBE]

After some consideration, I've decided to go with an EJ251 Block with my HLA heads as the base for building. This combo (along with the .7mm 11044AA632 HG) should get me around 10.4:1 compression.

I figure with that combination plus flat-faced exhaust valves, a stage 2 cam and a DIM (do-it-myself) P&P job I'll get close enough to what I was doing without all of the "bling".
And if I should decide to improve upon it later on... I can upgrade pistons, valvetrain parts, engine management etc.

A LOT less expense for good reliable performance.
Still planning on upgrading the oil pump and water pump (if I can).

I just need to find a reasonably-priced EJ251 short block...

[LGTtoBE]

Finally began sourcing the needed parts...
I have been researching the HG's though and used the most recently updated B4ET chart and I have come up with the 11044AA632 as the one I should use. But I have been told that the 11044AA642 is what I should be using... I have no idea what the difference is. They both seem to be .7mm thick and I haven't found good enough pictures to determine if the passages are different.

Any idea?

[chuckthefuk]

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/u ... tration_1/ (http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_3/engine/cylinder_head/illustration_1/)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/366495000601png-2.jpg

11044AA521
alternate: 11044AA630

'99, February — '00, June
'99, December — '01, May
'01, February — '02, May

11044AA630
alternate: 11044AA631

'02, January — '03, June
'03, January — '03, March

11044AA632
alternate: 11044AA633


The p/n people are telling you to use is for the EJ255 turbo BAJA/LGT/XT motor.

11044AA642 = http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/11044AA642

-Chuck

[LGTtoBE]

Got it!

[LGTtoBE]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej3siAKVsL0&feature=plcp

and:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/08/20120827_212144-1.jpg

[LGTtoBE]

I had intentions of getting my new block ready for transplantation but the Mrs. had other plans. After reminding her for 3 months that I needed to get my block to the machine shop [before it costs us MORE $], the fateful day arrived. I filled up my tank and set-off for work. Coming to stop at a red light, the motor stalled (eh no biggie). I tried to turn it over and was only able to get it to run with some gas on it. 1.5 miles later... POOF (it actually sounded less violent than it looked).

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/IMG_2255-1.jpg

and,

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/IMG_2256-1.jpg

[LGTtoBE]

Just ask...

[r3v_v3ng3]

Thats what happened to the outback I bought for 500. The owner told me it was low on oil or ran out of oil. It didn't made a hole on the crossover pipe though, just bent it. What was the cause of yours?

[LGTtoBE]

Thats what happened to the Crosstour I bought for 500. The owner told me it was low on oil or ran out of oil. It didn't made a hole on the crossover pipe though, just bent it. What was the cause of yours?

I knew I had some bad rings and low compression on at least 2 cylinders. I didn't know how bad...
Basically the rings went completely, the piston wedged itself in the bore and the rod pushed the wrist pin in [exploding the back/bottom of the piston). And of course as the connecting rod continued to rotate it kicked through and brought "shrapnel" with it.

Worried that my heads are destroyed too...
I have this ready to go if my heads are any good
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/20130331_200232-1.jpg