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View Full Version : Do I have to buy the expensive knock sensor????



hubble1953
02-16-2011, 07:06 PM
Just bought a 95 lsi and the cel is on for the knock sensor. I can get one online for about 53.00, or should I buy the oem 100.00 one? Does it really make a difference?
thanks for any help, have to pick this up tomarrow.

lord flashheart
02-17-2011, 10:48 AM
I'm kinda a junk yard type of person. I would go to a junk yard try on for shits and giggles. If it doesn't work then your only out a dollar or if you have the same rule I have (if it fits in your pocket its free) then your not out anything but the gas to go there.

phi11
02-17-2011, 11:24 AM
i went to the junk yard,
found one for the GT,
it went bad in 6 months.

I had to replace one in our RS at the same time,
bought the new subaru one,
that one still works.

Reason
02-17-2011, 12:17 PM
i went to the junk yard,
found one for the GT,
it went bad in 6 months.

I had to replace one in our RS at the same time,
bought the new subaru one,
that one still works.

Listen to him, I did the same thing its not worth the hadache.

hubble1953
02-17-2011, 07:13 PM
So, I should buy a new one, but does it make any difference if I get one online that is 'cheaper', or is it important to get the factory, subaru one, that is really expensive:)
thanks,
jm

Matty2Hotty
02-17-2011, 07:30 PM
I bought a Autozone one... Mine was cracked so I was getting a check light... Autozone has lifetime warranty also.

hubble1953
02-17-2011, 08:05 PM
Thanks, I too am getting a cel, so have to replace it soon. Will check out Autozone tomarrow.
thanks,
jm

lord flashheart
02-17-2011, 09:27 PM
as far as i know, O2 sensors and thermostats are the 2 things you really should get from the dealer. apparently the orielys/autozone ones malfunction..

hubble1953
02-17-2011, 10:33 PM
oh, :(, that is not good, because I just found one cheap:)
Have to see what the shop/dealer is going to charge.
thanks for all the help. right now the car is in the shop getting a wheel bearing fixed...they are having fun with that one. Big bolt will not come out! It is all rusted up.
jm

Matty2Hotty
02-17-2011, 10:43 PM
They do? 10k miles no problem, your in the computer system for lifetime replacement so I wouldn't see a problem. I'm a dealership person when it comes to headgaskets, timing items, and more serious items. Knock sensors fail even from the dealer. Your money... But as I see it, that sensor, it's like spark plugs, why pay $100 at the dealer when you can get it for $50

lord flashheart
02-18-2011, 12:13 AM
As far as knock sensors go, get the cheap ones. All I was saying is I see thermostats and o2 sensors fail A LOT ( I would estimate %25+ failure rate) when they don't come from the dealer or at least a quality parts store such as napa. Don't know why dealer told me the same thing. The non OEM ones malfunction a lot most other sensors are fine tho

Huffer
02-18-2011, 09:50 AM
Buy what you can afford, in relation to other items. If you can afford $600 on tires, buy the OEM knock sensor.

hubble1953
02-18-2011, 05:34 PM
Hello and thanks for all the input. The only reason I am being sort-of cheap, is the shop is working on my rear wheel bearings and they can not get this long bolt out that holds everything together. I might have to buy a few parts if they can not get it free, which is going to be expensive :roll:
And I thought I was going to get some wrx seats for my legacy :lol:
thanks,
jm

chuckthefuk
02-18-2011, 06:46 PM
Is it this bolt?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/02/1831471328_7ad48c2c8e-1.jpg

Any capable shop can torch it, re-thread it and order a replacement bolt. The air-hammer was invented for such reasons.

-Chuck

hubble1953
02-18-2011, 07:27 PM
yes, that is the bolt. I am going to see him on Monday and ask if he is going to do that next. He is hoping the PB Blaster is going to work over the weekend and then he can use the air gun on it. I would have cut it, but guess we will find out Monday. Pretty rusted on there:(
jm

mike-tracy
02-19-2011, 01:14 AM
^^Mine was REALLY rusted in there as well, and I just did this in January.

What I did was soak the area in pb-blaster, hammer a pickle fork (best tool ever, lol) in front of the bolt head and washer, then once I got it loose(er), I finished the job with a rented slide hammer from Autobone or O'Rielys. Prob the hardest thing I've had to do on this car so far, and I've done just about everything to it. :grin:

I reused the bolt, but I lubed it and the area it goes in with heavy grease.

hubble1953
02-19-2011, 10:21 AM
Mike: Thanks for the hints on how to get if off. When I go in Monday, I will mention this to the guy. He only works on subarus, so he does know his stuff. I think he is just not wanting to start banging on it with a hammer unless I say go ahead. That way if it breaks, I will be willing to buy the parts to fix it:);
I have lots of maint. items to fix on this car, but it does have a bunch of new parts too. So if I can get it all back up and running, it will be a nice car to work on and maybe mod. alittle.
thanks again for all the help,
john