dragged home another subaru [Archive] - Subaru Legacy International

green97gt

03-20-2011, 08:44 PM

1993 impreza L

unfortunately only :smt010 FWD

previous owner was about to send it to the junkyard, they offered her $100 for it and pick it up in a week, so i told her id have it out of the yard tonight for $100.

PO said it was a broken timing belt..but who knows, i opened the hood just to see if the motor was there.

dont know if ill part it, or hopefully make a runner out of it.

sorry about the crappy pics.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/196681_1674770512215_1326025800_31519561_7343043_n.jpg

httrdd

03-20-2011, 09:46 PM

Better update your sig. Lol. Nice to rescue one.

green97gt

03-20-2011, 11:54 PM

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188570_1675098520415_1326025800_31520313_6702262_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/196824_1675100760471_1326025800_31520314_3341749_n.jpg

am i correct in thinking that these older 2.2s are non interference?

cant wait to get a couple free hours and get it opened up and see what the issues are.

GTDrifter

03-21-2011, 12:13 AM

i bought my friends 98 legacy 2.2 l with a thrown timing belt and it works just fine, fix the timing belt and give it a try

Grafton

03-21-2011, 12:11 PM

97+ are interference, looks nice though, is it a project car?

green97gt

03-21-2011, 01:09 PM

you could classify it as a "i just drug home a car, wtf..now what"

plans are to see whats broken, probably just replace the timing belt, and put a battery in it and see what happens..thats if, i remove the timing covers and find things to be out of whack.

i just mowed the lawn and gave it a quick rinse with the pressure washer.

heres some pics

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190735_1676024743570_1326025800_31522091_529544_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/188658_1676031383736_1326025800_31522100_3778703_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199228_1676034223807_1326025800_31522101_5365976_n.jpg aww...you can see the TR7 in the background..that hasnt seen daylight in a few weeks.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/200176_1676036863873_1326025800_31522104_3071826_n.jpg
in this last pic, you can see the biggest body damage on the car, between the rear door, and the filler flap, looks like bike/mailbox damage to me.

100% RUST FREE except, it looks like sommeone left something metal laying on the roof, tools/ coffee can, etc. theres rust tarnish, but its on top of the paint.

green97gt

03-21-2011, 01:12 PM

..and the trunk wont stay shut..im thinkin broken spring/etc in the latch mechinism

Huffer

03-22-2011, 03:43 PM

Quick, find a front end damaged AWD Subaru, and swap the drivetrain and rear assembly. Then weld the center diff and make it RWD. LOL

1996Battlewagon

03-23-2011, 09:21 PM

I thought someone bumped one of your other "drug home" threads!

Nice find: 40+mpg FTW!

green97gt

03-23-2011, 11:05 PM

so, now that iv had time to pull it into the garage, and open the hood, i notice a few things.

1. its not a 2.2, its a 1.8..oops

2.engine isnt seized, rotates with a socket on the crank.

3.with a batt. charger hooked to it and the key on the CEL flashes REEAAALLLY fast, in conjuction with a ticking under the hood coming from a vacuum switch right behind the AC compressor

thoughts on that?

4. timing tensioner has exploded

green97gt

03-24-2011, 03:14 PM

it is alive

replaced the timing belt, and tensioner pully...tried to find as many of those little ball bearings from the old one as i could..they were everywhere.

tank sat on E, threw 5 gallons in the tank, and a little down the throttle body, and she fires right up.

little bit of valve noise, i believe these are solid lifters?

started and settles into a decent idle, then started to creep up, went from about 900 and over the course of 30-45 seconds crept up to 2500 rpm..so that was weird.. a little grey smoe from the tailpipe, i associate that with bad gas..

gotta get things put back together before i run it for any amount of time

we shall see.

total investment so far, $215

bulldozer24

03-24-2011, 04:27 PM

That is cheep for a running car. Next please get rid of that awful blue.

green97gt

03-24-2011, 05:36 PM

if you wanna come down and paint it, your more than welcome. you can even pick the color, as long as you buy the paint..and do the work.

it does move in forward and reverse, trans fluid is cherry red.

next issues:

seems to want to idle at almost 2k rpm, im thinking bad IAC(do these even have one? im sure they do..right?) or vacuum leak?

and a soft brake pedal..not spongy...just weak. press it and it keeps the car from moving tho..maybe a bleed, and go from there..

xoSubieLegacyxo

03-24-2011, 06:19 PM

wow for $100 and some change for the parts to fix it, I would of bought it in a heartbeat. Great Find!

bulldozer24

03-24-2011, 07:18 PM

if you wanna come down and paint it, your more than welcome. you can even pick the color, as long as you buy the paint..and do the work.

Just rattle can it;)

green97gt

03-24-2011, 10:32 PM

ok. cmon down

bulldozer24

03-24-2011, 10:46 PM

ok. cmon down

you going to pay air fair

green97gt

03-25-2011, 08:40 AM

prodriver1

03-25-2011, 08:49 AM

^I just checked out a white TR7 hard top, manual, all original. its sitting on a trailer in some farmers yard out in the boonies. it looks like it has been sitting for 10 years, it has a car show paper on the dash saying it participated in 02' I think (can't remember the date) and it looks like its been sitting ever since.

green97gt

03-25-2011, 08:53 AM

where in minnesota?

prodriver1

03-25-2011, 09:00 AM

on rice lake road past Duluth a little bit on the way to rice lake. it had cracked paint with surface rust starting. looks like it would have had a chance if not for farmer joe-d-bag leaving it out 4 ever. I don't think it was the V8 unless the figured out how to have exhaust on one side:)

bulldozer24

03-25-2011, 10:02 AM

things wants to idle at 2500 RPM..cant find any vacuum leaks, with the key on, engine off, theres a thing on top of the throttle plate that buzzes, similar to 60 cycle hum..if youv ever heard that.

i am guessing thats the IAC..is it supposed to buzz?

It is a cable throttle right? and if so you may need to just release some of the tension on it, or at least that is what i had to do with my legacy.

green97gt

03-25-2011, 10:12 AM

throttle plate appears to be closing properly, and cable is not tight

prodriver1

03-25-2011, 10:15 AM

so the idle spikes when it reaches temp? could the water pump be going parasitic on the engine causing it to need a higher idle to keep it going? it turns on when the thermostat opens rite?

green97gt

03-25-2011, 10:19 AM

prodriver1

03-25-2011, 10:30 AM

turn the car on, it will idle at 1100/1200rpm for short of a second, then climbs to 2500/2700rpm

haven't had it on long enough for it to reach temp, not sure what you mean by- turns on when the thermostat opens.
coolant flow.you can't pump if the flow of coolant is blocked by the closed thermostat, so when the engine reaches temp the thermostat opens and the pump turns on. I was thinking when the pump turns on it was rusted or about to seize and that would be more work than the engine is used to so it would apply more power to keep from dieing. it was just my theory, like when the AC comes on.

Baddog

03-26-2011, 07:27 PM

Yeah try the coolant temp sensor. Check the TB gasket. Then clean the IACV and check that gasket.

green97gt

03-26-2011, 07:43 PM

thought about the coolant temp sensor..a bitch to get at and test..removed, made a new gasket for, and cleaned the IAC, spraked brake cleaner all over looking for a vacuum leak..

now you start it, idles at about 1100 for a second, then climbs to 1800 or so, so thats an improvement..

im thinking its gotta be excess air somewhere

J.McDonald Knives

03-26-2011, 07:48 PM

The IAC is on the neck of the intake manifold to the left of the TB (when looking at it from the front) and has a huge black hose coming out of it going to the intake just behind the MAF. Great find btw.

02_Legacy

03-26-2011, 09:28 PM

coolant flow.you can't pump if the flow of coolant is blocked by the closed thermostat, so when the engine reaches temp the thermostat opens and the pump turns on. I was thinking when the pump turns on it was rusted or about to seize and that would be more work than the engine is used to so it would apply more power to keep from dieing. it was just my theory, like when the AC comes on.
The pump is always running it doesn't turn on or off. There is a coolent bypass that circulates coolent from the engine side of the thermostat back to the pump so that coolent is still circulating even if the thermostat is closed.

I would run it untill it gets to temp, maybe the engine is running fast to get the engine to temp. So maybe the idle will drop to normal once the engine warms up.

Baddog

03-26-2011, 09:41 PM

I just realized no one mentioned a Throttle Position Sensor.

green97gt

03-27-2011, 07:51 AM

i feel like i got a hand cut off dealing with this pre obd2 car, wish i could just hook my scanner up to it and check the sensors..oh welll, time to bust out the multi meter

green97gt

03-28-2011, 05:30 PM

ok..

so, iv hunted for vacuum leaks, found one, fixed.
removed and cleaned IAC replaced w/ new gasket
reset TPS to within closed spec of .2-1.0V

now idles at 1700RPM in neutral, 1100RPM in drive.

i know its a tiny 1.8 but that seems awfully high.

i notice a small adjustment screw on the top right(as you look at the motor) of the throttle body, it adjusts the idle stop and is acted upon by a thermo element(heated by coolant), uses some cam levers and adjusts the cool/warm throttle plate stop position..i notive its all shiny...like the previous owner was fiddlin with it. i cant find and adjustment spec, or anything, anyone know?.. i spose i could just play with it..but i love specs.

also needs valve cover gaskets i assume, oil on the exhaust manifold

prodriver1

03-28-2011, 05:44 PM

green97gt

03-28-2011, 05:53 PM

went and played with that idle adjustment, put it to its maximum closed position/lowest idle and it idles in neutral at about 1300, in gear at about 900
tta be excess air somewhere i think.
still doesnt feel like thats right, gotta be unmetered air somewhere i think.

green97gt

03-28-2011, 10:09 PM

still cant get this idle nailed down, it seems to be higher now than it was before..may post a vid soon...

also, is there any reay/model interswappability as far as radiators? mine seems to be more of a fountain

J.McDonald Knives

03-28-2011, 11:42 PM

Might just get a can or two of Micro-X contact cleaner and clean all the harness plugs and connections. Sometimes it can be as simple as that. I'd also suggest doing a full tune-up. If you give me a list of the sensors you want checked I can look up what they are supposed to ohm out to. If I can't find out from what I have access to from home I can look them up on Mitchell OnDemand tomorrow at school.

Baddog

03-29-2011, 07:04 PM

Yeah and did you did try a coolant temp sensor as well? I hate to tell people to buy things. But maybe pull one from a junkyard.

anothernord

03-29-2011, 08:09 PM

Nice find! Can't argue with a working Subie for $200.

xoSubieLegacyxo

03-29-2011, 10:32 PM

how much have you spent so far on the project?

green97gt

03-30-2011, 11:03 AM

so far im at $237(rounding up on all reciepts)

that includes, purchase of car, tow home, parts including little hoses and things.

next "big dollar" item is going to be the radiator, and rear brake cylinders.

so far iv, removed and cleaned the IAC, tested for function the best i could with it out, turn the key to on and it closes, turn key off and it goes slack(movable with little pressure.)i plan on taking the electronic off it and using a screwdriver to rotate the valve when the cars running and see if that helps.

ive adjusted the TPS to back within spec

removed, cleaned, and tested the coolant temp sensor

at "idle" 1500RPM+/- im getting 19 inches of vacuum on my gauge..needle flutters rapidly indicating worn valve guides

also, when i remove the brake booster vacuum line, idle drops, which caught me a little off guard, i figured idle would rise.

just gotta be something im missing

J.McDonald Knives

03-30-2011, 11:21 AM

Might try starting it up and letting it idle for about 30mins and then popping the throttle a few times. How long had it been sitting since the last time it ran?

green97gt

03-31-2011, 01:50 PM

iv let it sit and run for some time, popped the throttle(that was my first thought, the TR7 does that)

it had been sitting for about 8 months or so, according to some receipts found in the car.

tank was on E when i got it, so i ran some cleaner thru the lines and then pumped it out, getting plenty of pressure and volume at the line going into the engine.

added 5 gallons.

iv never seen bad gas make the car idle like crazy tho.

im wondering, is the IAC on this car a on/off type, or infinitely variable?

keep in mind its not the one to the left(as you look at the motor) of the throttle body, this one sits on top of the TB

J.McDonald Knives

03-31-2011, 02:59 PM

You could always just buy another IAC and see if it changes anything. Its not like its an expensive part, lol. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... ing=search (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1993-Subaru-Legacy/Idle-Air-Control-Valve/_/N-j01gpZ9gsof?filterByKeyWord=idle+air+control&fromString=search) Try pulling one from a junk yard and testing it out to see if it makes any changes, then you know its the problem. You could also ohm out the TPS and the other electronics and back track it that way. Try taping the IAC valve, MAF sensor, and the TPS with the handle of a screw driver while the engine is idling and see if that helps any. Also check all vacuum connections to make sure the hoses aren't loose.

green97gt

03-31-2011, 04:01 PM

subarus arent exactly plentiful down here.

all the local junkyards had 1 impreza, that was a week ago, its probably been crushed

J.McDonald Knives

03-31-2011, 06:05 PM

You think thats bad? Try down here. No dealership within 3hr drive and the next closest place that has some Subarus is about 3 hours away as well. lol

green97gt

04-04-2011, 12:01 AM

so the high idle culprit was the IAC.

when i removed and tested it, it all checked out, however, this iac is multi position , and if i put power to it, it would move like it should be working(to the closed position, then blow air thru it with an air compressor, and the thing that moves freewheeled to the open position, i guess the magnetic element was worn enough to move to the correct position, but not strong enough to handle resistance, like air pressure, or vacuum..

drove damn near to the east coast cause i had a lead on one impreza, hoped to find a radiator, and an iac..found the iac, no luck on the radiator.

also replaced one caliper and my brakes are beautiful now...WTF is with a caliper for the 97gt being like 40 bucks, and one for this old pooey impreza being 70 bucks? they must be proud of that one...

the rad is leaking from about a 3 inch crack on the top plastic...cap...thing... i cleaned it really nice and slathered some epoxy on it..waited a while and ran it up to opp temp. no leaks..we will see how long that lasts..im guessing not to long.

something just doesnt sit right with buying a rad. for more than i paid for the car.

J.McDonald Knives

04-04-2011, 12:25 AM

Look at the bright side to putting in a new radiator, once you do that you will increase the value of the car to about 4k-5k or at the least 3k. Good flip, only spending less than $500 on it and make money to fix up your other cars. Just saying is all.

green97gt

04-04-2011, 12:39 AM

at least 3k huh? wanna buy it for $2500?

http://orlando.craigslist.org/ctd/2303730537.html -same color even, my interior is darker tho, 70k less miles. been for sale forever.

http://orlando.craigslist.org/ctd/2299757841.html -my AC works

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2249519567.html -wish mine was AWD

all of these are better looking i imagine, as theres a few dents, and the front bumper is uggered..dog chain? or something?

has a working aftermarket radio, and tape player(dont have a tape to test that one, lol)..which i didnt notice until today...sweet..door speakers dont work tho..lame.

also needs the center console put back together, looks all there, but looks like someone took it apart to replace that brake, gear selector inhibitor, switch..gizmo

i was thinking $1600 if it turns out to be solid, iv put maybe 2 miles on it so far.

J.McDonald Knives

04-04-2011, 12:52 AM

Wasn't too sure what it would go for but I'm glad you do. At least you more than double your money invested into it. I'm trying to figure out what its gonna cost my buddy to fix up the 1978 Brat that he wants to get. This will even include some mods to increase the hp/tq and bigger tires/wheels. I'll be going to look at it Wednesday. Hes gonna pay me to do all the work and pay for all the parts. Been researching mods and parts for it and options for him to choose from, including a manual choke instead of electronic choke carb.

02_Legacy

04-04-2011, 07:17 PM

the rad is leaking from about a 3 inch crack on the top plastic...cap...thing... i cleaned it really nice and slathered some epoxy on it..waited a while and ran it up to opp temp. no leaks..we will see how long that lasts..im guessing not to long.
see if you can find a lower pressure rad cap, that way the pressure in the system will be lower and your less likly to spring a leak. I don't know about your car but my subaru has a 15 PSI cap stock, you should be able to get like a 6 or 8 check with auto parts stores.

Or if you can't find a cap you can just leave a little air in the radiator and because air compresses and liquids don't it will lower the pressure in the system.

green97gt

04-04-2011, 10:53 PM

well..that epoxy didnt last long..one spirited romp, and she blew...shucks.

guess i still need a rad.

any of your notherners frequent the junkyards and find one, let me know.

02_Legacy

04-04-2011, 11:46 PM

Have you tried http://www.car-parts.com and even if you know about it some of thoes junkyards will ship, its worth a look.

green97gt

04-05-2011, 01:38 PM

so, getting the interior put back together, someone removed the rear seat, and took apart the center console..

on the part that has the PRNDL and the gear selector, there is a hole in it, looks lie a button went there..any ideas what that is for?

J.McDonald Knives

04-05-2011, 10:57 PM

Probably where the AWD/FWD switch went since the 93 Impreza had that option as well. Maybe someone else can confer that. I'm thinking it might have just had a switch plug since yours is the FWD model.

green97gt

04-05-2011, 11:16 PM

thats kinda what i was thinking...
i also noticed a 2 wire lead that has been cut under that panel..touched them together and nothing seems to happen....

need to find this rad..founs one in cocoa beach for 50 bucks..but the wifey says i have to wait to buy it...and the inlaws are in town...yippee

J.McDonald Knives

04-06-2011, 12:08 AM

Oh hell, you're screwed, lol. Just sit on your hands for now until the inlaws leave and then sweet talk the wife.

emsalex

04-06-2011, 04:57 PM

if you think the in-laws are a pain, try renting a house from them!

green97gt

04-23-2011, 04:24 PM

well..put about 120 miles on it last night, then this morning, hop in and hit the highway for extended periods of 70+MPH..get to my destination and...A BIG RED PUDDLE!..sweet.

checked the fluids, the trans is a bit low IMO and the diff is full of red fluid, smells like gear oil..kinda.. looks like the leak is coming from one of the CV shafts...havent crawled under it yet.

my half baked thought at this point is that the trans is pumping ATF into the diff, thru that separator tube, and when it gets full enough it leaks out the CV seal.

damn...i was hoping not to have to drop the trans/remove the engine..

$360 total investment so far.

does 85 like a champ...sometimes has a CEL, sometimes the power light flashes 16 times at start up..sometimes behaves like it should..

AC works... :grin: ...but only out the vents nearest the door.
the selector knob for AC/heat/vent/defrost is all fuckered up..only has 2 positions, and they arent right.
speedo/odo. dont work. :smt017
front doors dont lock, you hit the button, close the door, they unlock...

J.McDonald Knives

04-23-2011, 09:31 PM

Sounds like you need to hit the local salvage yards. Also get the parts to fix the trans. The power light and CEL might also be related to the trans being leaky.

bulldozer24

04-23-2011, 09:56 PM

the joys of buying a used vehicle :smile:

xoSubieLegacyxo

04-24-2011, 12:27 AM

the joys of buying a used vehicle :smile:

but hell its a cheap car and hes prolly getting 40 mpg!!

green97gt

04-24-2011, 09:34 AM

well, jacked it up, drained the diff, and looky what i find stuck to the magnet..

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/DSC02782-1.jpg

know what those are?...the springs from inside a seal..the seperator tube doesnt have these types of seals, does it? so it must have come from one of the CV shaft seals, right?

but that doesnt explain the ATF contamination in the front diff...that may have just been a dumb previous owner tho...

was really hoping not to have to get into the transmission on this thing...

no chunks of metal on the magnet, some shavings, but no chunks..

green97gt

04-24-2011, 10:03 AM

ElbryanWolf

04-24-2011, 10:15 AM

Keep it up man. Nice buy and nice project. Hope you get all your needed parts cheap to ge it up to speed :)

prodriver1

04-24-2011, 11:11 AM

so...it seems to me, that the passenger side seal is where the springs came from, drive the car around the block, and you can see fluid dripping out of that side..then i got to thinking, isnt the pass side also where the speed sensor for the car is?..my speedometer doesnt work..coincidence?
yes! had the same thing happen to me, cam speed sensor was the prob, also on a more serious note that was when my crank pulley bolt broke almost stranding me, thankfully the outback had my back:) and got me home with nothing working. so check your pulley bolt look at the pulley when the car is running, is it wobbly? also your front and rear crank seals are usually going too. well on my car they were, all at the same time! expensive:(

green97gt

04-24-2011, 11:26 AM

this speedo is cable driven. pretty sure its not the cam sensor.

car leaks no oil, i did the valve covers to stop what oil leakage it did have.

ok..so. whos had 4EATs apart? heres a few questions for ya.

iv had a couple apart, and looking for confirmation on a few things.

IF the diff is being contaminated by ATF(not stupid previous owner), it must be either the input shaft seal, and separator tube leaking..OR.. the pinion shaft seal..?..

and

if i pull the diff case off, do i have to re adjust for backlash/contact pattern? i know i will have to reset the CV seal cover to correct position..

4n70n1n0

04-26-2011, 10:41 AM

dude that is a good find for that cheap, I wish I could find one of those in AWD up here in CT. I'll keep few hundred bucks handy and keep lookin

Good luck with it and keep it up, so far she hasn't eaten too much of your money and even if you end up spending $1000 on it u'll end up with a better one than one that you would buy for $1000, but that's just how i feel

Wish I had a yard and storage area like you, but maybe i'm better off not. I would have too many cars and I can only drive one at a time

green97gt

04-26-2011, 04:33 PM

ok...

i replaced the pass. side CV axle seal, no leaks, and no sign of ATF contamination in the diff.

i swear when i first bought it i looked in the diff, it had diff oil in it...maybe it was dark..

oh well...gonna rock it until something else starts fallin off.