PHATsuby's 2001 Legacy GT(Full STi swap now in progress)

[PHATsuby]

Hey Everyone,

Alright here is my BE Legacy. It is a 2001 but only has 39k on it due to having sat for literally a few years during projects. These pics are about 2 years old(and crappy), the difference is I no longer have the Carbon fiber Rev D hood on there and I sold my Stoptechs so it's even more stock. I will also shortly be pulling the tint as I am tired of paying tint tickets here in MN haha.

Current Mods:

BH Tein HA coilovers 8k/8k
Whiteline Rear sway bar
MB Motorsport Weapons
Leatherseats.com seat covers
STi Muffler
03-04 GT front bumper
5mt from 2004 legacy GT(previously 4EAT)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/100_0301-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/100_0302-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/100_0299-1.jpg

History:

In the beginning having never changed my own oil before I decided I would turbo my car and tune it as well. :lol:

So I bought a ludespeed turbo kit, at the time they made t3/t4 kits for the RS and put it on my car. I also bought an Autronic ECU. I upgraded my 4EAT with a different torque converter and valve body which really didn't do a whole lot. If any of you know Joe T he was the original mentor and basically helped me trouble shoot my ecu install. Along the way we discovered the trigger info on his manual GT was different(same as wrx) than on my Auto. This whole ordeal had my car down for about the whole summer.

After getting annoyed by the auto and having wanted a manual all along I decided I would swap the 4eat for the STi 6mt. I got a "brand new" 6mt which I'm guessing wasn't really brand new at all. Luckily I told the seller it had multiple loose bolts on the center diff housing, some that were almost totally backed out when I got it. So, when 90 miles later a bolt got punched through the tranny case from the INSIDE out, he luckily took it back and fixed it and sent it back but that caused my car to be down for another summer.

Some will likely recall this spectacular failure which still is depressing to think about but I had started to think about doing a H6 twin turbo setup once I saw some JDM EZ30R motors available for pretty cheap. I went through multiple design changes throughout the process. Ultimately I settled on this design:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG_2016-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG_2022-1.jpg

I tried to accomplish this all again over a summer while working at PDXTuning. It got to this point where it would idle but I ran out of time and literally had to fly back to MN for the first day of class.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG_2023-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG_2026-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/IMG_2028-1.jpg

The car had to be trailored back to MN from Portland. It sat for the next two years while I was in school and quite pissed I never got to finish things when/how I wanted. After it sitting and the fact that I had a $10,000 motor(sleeved, rods, pistons, heads) just sitting there I decided to sell it. Looking back it is crazy the amount of time I put in(I did all the design and 90% of the welding/fabrication) to not see it finished.

My next project will be much more tame but I have come to appreciate OEM reliability and I will start with a factory turbo drivetrain the next thing I do. I hope to start another project soon and I will put it up here when I do. It will likely start after June of this year as that is after I take level 2 of the CFA.

Any questions feel free to ask, sorry it's a big post. :)

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Sorry for the huge photos, I'll scale them down in a bit.

Ben

[rougeben83]

hey Ben,
how have you been doing? Still sad to see that project not work out for you. Did the new owner ever get it to work? Get back into a Legacy!

[Huffer]

You and Girodisc should compare notes. He's doing a very similar build but on a previous gen shell.

[httrdd]

Man that would of been an amazing build! Who owns it now? Fast as hell I bet!

[dodik]

hey Ben,
how have you been doing? Still sad to see that project not work out for you. Did the new owner ever get it to work? Get back into a Legacy!

this must be a bit weird for you two, Ben saying hi to Ben. Welcome to SL-i although i always though you were registered here too.

[02_Legacy]

:shock:
I love it when people do things like that, too bad you didn't get the chance to finnish it though. I hope you post a build thread for your next project on here.

[PHATsuby]

Thanks guys,

If I were to do it all over I could do a better design and would be able to solve my oil return issue as well. It would work a lot better and give me greater ground clearance. I would have modeled the mini manifolds in Solidworks and had them CNC'd.

The motor was sold to a guy who I think planned to do track days. I got a picture a while ago that showed him doing a twin turbo setup as well but he positioned them similar to a supra twin turbo setup.

Ben

[SeriousSubaru]

That is awesome! Super inspiring!

[PHATsuby]

Well, Ladies and Gentlemen I have returned.

After a long Hiatus from car obsession due to my epic H6 failure and frustration I have decided to undertake a new project. This project is actually much more reasonable and I have 100% confidence that I will in fact finish it.

From the H6 experience I have grown older and wiser and come to appreciate a few things a bit more. One of those things is OEM reliability and factory turbocharged powerplants. :)

My car is a 2001 with only 39k on it, however since it has essentially been a constant project from 2004 and up it has never really been complete. For example:

Since I went back to stock motor I have had a constant CEL since I have a TCU hooked up but no auto transmission for it to control. I have no cruise control and no air conditioning. I have a tape player but the other 2 DIN slots are wide open. My speaker grills are missing and I only have 2 front speakers installed. I have various interior panels missing and no spare tire or trunk floor. I could go on I'm sure...

I entertained the idea of the new Subaru coupe when it was rumored to be AWD and turbo, which unfortunately did not happen so that will not happen.

I then decided to utilize my 2001 chassis with only 39k on it and build a car I've always wanted for cheaper than I could ever buy a similar car outright. :)

I have forever held the S401 as the ultimate car and ultimate Legacy for my model year. Although I can't build an exact replica of that car I would like to build my own version utilizing a STi drivetrain.

Since I am essentially buying a "new" car(but building it), I had some criteria:
1. 100% OEM reliability, working cruise control, working A/C, No CEL's, 100% factory looking swap.
2. All parts must have equal or lesser miles than my current vehicle

With those criteria in mind I began my hunt for a suitable drivetrain. After bidding on a few salvage cars and losing I realized I likely would not find a salvage STi with low enough miles and an unquestionable drivetrain in my price range. I then found a 2006 STi drivetrain with less than 29k miles and snagged it off ebay.

Originally I had planned to bid on a salvage turbo baja and just swap that drivetrain and call it a day. However, after I thought about it I knew I would not truly be content unless I had a 6mt back with all the supporting hardware. :D

I am planning to swap an entire 2004 Baja wiring harness and run a 2004 Sti ecu. For DCCD I will have to run a DCCDPro unit because having looked at the wiring diagrams this will be the easiest and cleanest way to do it. My goal is to have minimal splicing and wiring needed which is the reason to use the Baja harness since it uses the same manual HVAC and airbag setup.

The swap will start out stock to shake everything down and make sure I have no CEL's. Then I'll move to stage 2 after everything is good and stop there.

Special delivery:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00312-1.jpg

2006 STi motor
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00316-1.jpg
My car looks on its future 6mt.:) I wanted a 2006+ for the better syncros and bit better gearing. The 2007 gearing would have been ideal but the final gear is the same and I don't care about drag racing, only in school zones. I previously had a 2004 six speed so this will work just fine.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00314-1.jpg

And the fun begins...some gems from the previous owner makes me wonder if this was just for gauges. I'll definitely be doing a compression test as soon as it has its first heat cycle. Luckily the seller has granted me a 30 day warranty from the day I actually start the motor, so far the customer service has been top notch.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00317-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00329-1.jpg

This was babied right? Should a clutch with 29k miles on it look like this? One of the reasons I'll be doing a compression test.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00321-1.jpg

With my luck the motor will end up being blown after I finish it all but I'm trying to stay positive and definitely feel like if there is an issue I at least won't be hung out to dry by the company I bought it from so that is a positive.

Much more updates in store. In reality I likely won't be able to finish this until the end of July/August with my summer schedule but I'll be doing work as I can.

Here we go again!
Ben

[PHATsuby]

UPDATE:

So here is what I started working on yesterday and worked on some today. I am working on fitting a Ver 8 STi prodrive cluster into my legacy. This has one has DCCD and is in MPH, there were supposedly only 500 of these made to celebrate Solberg's WRC win.

I have an old Baja cluster I will be using as well to try and make it look like an OEM part.

Here is the pattern I made using various parts of each cluster. I will be scanning this in and then making a model in SolidWorks to get it cut out by a CNC or waterjet. My plan is to use a thin plastic sheet, maybe 1-2mm thick. I left all the different lines even though most won't be needed just so I'll have reference when I'm making the model in SolidWorks.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00348-1.jpg

To get an idea of how it may look.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00338-1.jpg

A better idea. It's hard to tell in this picture but the different ridges of the STi cluster surround made it so I will have to put the overlay on the outside of the cluster. I could put it under but would still look odd in my opinion.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00347-1.jpg

Here you can see what I mean, it would fill in the air space but you could still see the skeleton once you put the BE surround on.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00343-1.jpg

This is just a rough idea, once I got this all cut out assuming I could put it behind the cluster I realized I needed to have it on top so I will need to model it like I originally thought in SW so I can have exact and clean lines.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00342-1.jpg

This is the backing on the Baja cluster. I am still trying to figure out the best way to do this but I would like to have the frame of the Baja bolt together but the STi cluster outer dimensions are very similar. Yes I will have to hack on the STi cluster to remove the tabs on it's stock housing...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00344-1.jpg


That is all I have for now, once I get it modeled in SolidWorks I'll post up a rendering.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Former BE crew checking in.

Ben I love that you're getting back into this. An STI powered BE would be the ultimate Legacy and something I always wanted to do. I'll be following this one closely.

Thanks Mitch, I'm excited too. I'll be even more excited when I start it for the first time and get to drive it. :)

UPDATE:
I did a rendering in SolidWorks tonight. I will have to print it out and see if it works before I get it made but this should be a much cleaner and more precise way of doing it. I'll likely send it in to get a quote on the cost tomorrow as well. I'm just hoping they can do it in a thin enough material that is plastic.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/legacysticlusteroverlaytrim1newdimension-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/legacysticlusteroverlayrendering-1.jpg

Ben

[PHATsuby]

I got some decent stuff accomplished the past two days. It's all small stuff and I didn't get all done with everything I wanted to but that's how it goes.

I swapped the companion flange from the R180 to a R160 so I can use the legacy driveshaft. So far the best buy of probably all my tools has been the Chicago electric electric impact gun from harbor freight. For $40 it has worked great, no issues and even if it busted I can get another one.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00386-1.jpg
With R160 flange on it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00388-1.jpg
A casualty of the project. For reference the nut needs 134 lb/ft of torque and I didn't have a specialty tool. I had to come up with another way to brace it torque it down.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00387-1.jpg

Here is the frustrating part because the whole point of working this weekend was a leak down test. I bought a harbor freight one for $32 with a 20% off coupon. The problem is the gauges just aren't precise and accurate enough. Depending on where you set the gauge before the reading it could be different by 10% which is pretty much worthless. I'll be taking this back and buying a better one. I tried to get one from Napa and of course they didn't have one at either store when I needed it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00390-1.jpg
I tried to be as consistent as possible when setting it before the reading.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00392-1.jpg
this is Cylinder 1. This is showing nearly 40% leakage. I believe I wasn't at TDC, but either way I did it again and it read around 20%, still too high. All the cylinders were from 15%-21%, too high in general but I'm assuming I don't have 4 bad cylinders. I couldn't hear any audible leaks or feel any air coming from any of the possible locations.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00393-1.jpg

[PHATsuby]

This is a concern, I saw this after I pulled the paper they had stuffed into the turbo. It is a piece of glass. I flipped the motor over on the stand and didn't see anything else come out but I'll spray air in there to make sure there is nothing in there.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00410-1.jpg
swapped the turbo intake to fix the torn rubber portion. This was quite annoying and I really hope I never have to do it again. In the process I did tear the intake manifold gasket, so I'll get some new ones. I need to order other gaskets as well so I'm just going to do it all at once, next time.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00413-1.jpg
The source of future fun. :) the stock turbo has zero shaft play so that is a positive.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00415-1.jpg
swapped the coolant crossover tube so now there is no plugged bung on it.:)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00417-1.jpg
Swapped the bung tapped side of the manifold for a stock one. It looks like the oilpan has taken a little damage from the bottom, not bad but there is a bit of a dent.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00418-1.jpg

[PHATsuby]

This was the resulting gap after tightening it down, there is no way this could have been pulled together with the stock bolts? I may have to loosen the other side and then put it together.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00426-1.jpg
I will be able to use just a regular 3" 2 bolt flange and gasket for when I build the rest of the exhaust so that was a positive. I will not have the donut gasket in there but I will have a flex section.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00425-1.jpg
Yep, cutting up a rare cluster prodrive gauge cluster, do not try this at home, unless you are doing what I am doing haha.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00428-1.jpg
Legacy cluster frame cut out for the Sti cluster to slip in.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00429-1.jpg
Looking factory. :D
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00430-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00431-1.jpg
I am gonna have to trim the top tab off as it gets in the way of the harness plug as does the rest of the top so pretty much all the tabs on the top will get cut off. It should still snap together fine with the rest and be secure.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00433-1.jpg
Still needs more adjustment for final positioning before I secure it all down but its a good start.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00434-1.jpg

That's it for now, won't be really any progress for about 2 weeks. I wanted to get my speakers and door panels installed but the first day threw everything off.

Ben

[STIdarkside]

Did you reupholster the stock seats?

[PHATsuby]

Did you reupholster the stock seats?

Yes, it was a leatherseats.com kit from back in the day, not sure if they are still around. Nice kit, has held up well. I may swap the seats out for STi ones but we'll see.

Ben

[chuckthefuk]

OMG i just found this.

THIS IS BRILLIANT!!!!!

[YVK]

gosh i wish i had the brains/money to do this to mine..

[02_Legacy]

gosh i wish i had the brains/money to do this to mine..

I second that, but keep up the good work at least we get to see someone else do it, it gives us hope lol.

[PHATsuby]

Thanks guys!

Well I just got back from vacation. While I was gone I received my new leak down tester. It is made by OTC and appears to be a much better unit, even better is the fact that the gauges are much higher resolution and I can pressurize the cylinder to 80psi so I should get a much better indication of the motors health.

I am hoping I can go down next weekend and do the new leak down. I will also be checking on the oil pick up tube due to the dent in the oil pan. I showed Jarrad from PDXTuning and he said it is likely fine but I should check it out. I don't want to risk it so I'll see what I can see see through the drain plug and if it looks questionable I'll pull the pan. I really hope I don't need to replace the pan/pick up tube but we'll see.

In doing some thinking, as much as I want those JDM Enkei wheels I can't justify the cost of them especially since this project is already over budget... I will likely just buy some Rota Gravels which was my original plan. The weight difference is only about 2lbs per wheel so again its hard to pay over 2x the amount and I still really like the design.

I will go with gunmetallic unless I can get them to do some flat black ones for me.

I also sent them a PM inquiring about making a S401 replica wheel which I thought would be pretty popular but said I'd ask for interest if they would consider it. I have yet to hear back but if that is a possibility I may just end up waiting on new wheels and tires until next summer since I assume a new wheel will take quite a while to produce.

I only have a few more items to order to theoretically be ready to start the swap. The big item is still the Baja Turbo hood.

I also ordered a couple other aesthetic items while I was gone that I am going to use as well.

I want to finish the gauge overlay but I am having trouble getting an accurate print out so I can truly see if the dimensions are correct. Once I can finalize dimensions that will likely be a two week wait before it is ready.

I think my plan once I get back to the garage will be:
Compression test, if its all good then check oil pick up
If pick up is good then bolt motor to tranny
Remove most of interior and dash to prep for swap.

I may take my grandpa's pick up truck, if that is the case and I can have my car inoperable I'll likely start to do more work as time allows.

stay tuned!

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Good news to report! I went down for a night to check the motor with my new leak down tester and all cylinders were less than 6% leakage. :D I also checked the oil pan dent through the drain plug and it looks fine, did not come close to impacting the pick up tube so I'm gonna leave it as is.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/leakdown-1.jpg

I didn't get much else accomplished because the sole purpose was to just check the engine condition to see if I was going to have to deal with fixing the motor. I am breathing much easier now and am excited to move forward. I should be picking up likely all the remaining parts this coming week and I'd like to go down again on saturday to do some actual work.

I picked up a bunch of new Grimmspeed exhaust gaskets since I figured I may as well do it since I have to get some new ones anyways.

Some other deliveries arrived as well.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/frontlipnewplate-1.jpg

Getting the lip to work will require some body work if I want to keep the USDM bumper. I'm trying to decide how I want to do it. The lip is wide enough but will not wrap around the back edge of the bumper. Apparently the JDM bumpers are less deep. This will be likely the very last issue I deal with as I'd rather get the car up and running and back together before I work on more aesthetics.

I got my STi spare tire as well so I won't be left stranded! I had a 10" polk Momo sub lying around from years ago when I was more into car audio and I plan to make a fiberglass box for it. It's a 300w RMS sub so it should give a good amount of bass. They are very tight response and high sound quality.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/momosub-1.jpg

I had planned to get my new interior door panels installed and my new speakers installed also. However I ran into a few issues so I only got one of the new speakers installed. The fronts are basically a direct fit. The rears will require some work. They are Polk DB 651S for the fronts. I am not going to amp them, just run a Sony head unit and have a mono amp for the sub under the seat. I figure if I'm gonna keep this car forever I want a decent setup but least weight and wiring hassle as possible.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/polkdb-1.jpg

That's all for now, I may actually put the car out of commission next week and get as much done as I can. Part of me wants to wait for a full Friday-Sunday weekend and try to pull a 72 hour swap marathon. :D Likely will not be possible but it would be epic. If I do try it I'll see if I can set up a camera to record it all.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

UPDATE:

Got a little more accomplished this weekend but again not as much as I had hoped. Ran into a few issues that prevented me from getting more done. One of those issues was not having proper CV bands to make my hybrid axles. Napa had these crappy bands so I'm going to order some ones from the dealer. The other issue was that my intake manifold gaskets came into the dealer but then got sold again so I couldn't put my motor fully together.:mad:

Pile of Grimmspeed gaskets. I ran into an issue here as well. After I pulled the exhaust manifold apart, the flanges would not lay flat against the gaskets so it looks like I have leaks at the crossover tube connections. I'm trying to figure out how I should deal with that.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00468-1.jpg

Hard to see but the cylinder 3 valves which are closest to the uppipe are white coated while the cylinder 1,2 and 4 valves are not. Any ideas on this?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00470-1.jpg

Here was a not so fun lesson I learned. I bought a used Spec B clutch being told they were the same as the STi 6mt but they are not the same. This seems odd but is true.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00473-1.jpg

The Sti clutch I got with the tranny is not in great shape but should have some life left in it for now and will be fine at stock power levels. Once I go stage 2 though it could be an issue but we'll see. The surface area of the clutch is clearly larger on the STi clutch.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00472-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00471-1.jpg

The sweet union of 6mt and EJ257. :D Once I get the intake manifold on the heart of the car can be transplanted! I can say that doing all of this work outside the car is much more convenient and it will be very nice to install it all at once.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/07/DSC00475-1.jpg

I worked on the gauge cluster a little as well. I trimmed the Legacy frame so the STi cluster could sit down as far as needed. Now I need to figure out a way to secure the frame to the cluster. If anyone has a good idea on how to do this I would appreciate suggestions. I thought about JB weld but there are too big of gaps. I may use an epoxy sculpt as that seems like the best option right now.

I brought the Baja dash harness up and the Sti gauge harness to work on merging them this week.

Ben

[rougeben83]

that sucks Ben, can't you get a used STI clutch? I bought a slightly used one for $75 locally when I did mine, it's probably even more prevalent than the spec b one you were able to get. Also the exhaust gaskets, did you get the extra think ones from gs? that should help with the uneven flanges a little.

well don't lose hope, keep it up!

[PHATsuby]

that sucks Ben, can't you get a used STI clutch? I bought a slightly used one for $75 locally when I did mine, it's probably even more prevalent than the spec b one you were able to get. Also the exhaust gaskets, did you get the extra think ones from gs? that should help with the uneven flanges a little.

well don't lose hope, keep it up!

I still had my Sti clutch that came with it, so I did use the STi clutch I had it has 28k on it but you can see there is def some heat in the pressure plate and some wear on the clutch.

I'm not losing hope, it won't stop me I still got it all together haha. I'll just be annoyed if it won't hold stage 2 power.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

UPDATE:

Well I got the gauge cluster wired up as far as I can tell based on my diagram deduction. I won't be soldering or finalizing anything until I can test it.

The fun beginning...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00476-1.jpg

I took the Sti plugs and pig tails to splice into the Baja harness. In hindsight I am kind of pissed because I took apart the old baja cluster so it would have been perfect to try and make a plug and play harness without needing to chop up the Baja harness. Hind sight is 20/20 and I'm not sure I want to spend another $150 on a dash harness...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00478-1.jpg

I"m not sure if label makers will wrap the wire for you but that would be a must have if I was doing the whole harness. Doing these 90 wires was very tedious and I can't imagine doing a full two ecu harnesses.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00480-1.jpg

Yes it looks like a rats nest right now but I will separate it out a bit better once I know it's all hooked up properly. At times when wire color would match up or be close I'd think "hey I'm doing this right" But there are wires that don't match at all haha.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00482-1.jpg

I think the big unknown is the ambient temp sensor. The other positive thing about the prodrive cluter I got(and a reason I got it) was that it supposedly uses the regular ambient temp sensor that goes with the manual A/C models so it SUPPOSEDLY is plug and play for 04 WRX's and the outside temp still works. I really hope this is the case because I like knowing the outside temp and I'll feel more elite if mine works. :D

As of now I think the plan will be to attempt the full swap on the weekend of the 19th. In the mean time I'll gather some more parts and will need to do some more prep. I did order another item that should be pretty sweet. :) I need to grab my hood from the dealer and take it down to my garage but the pickup truck I brought up appears to have a bad battery or something was left on. Nothing like having issues with your backup car lol.

Ben

[Huffer]

Funtimes. I seriously would never have the time or patience. Kudos!

[r3v_v3ng3]

Looking at those wires give me a headache already. It'll all be worth it

[PHATsuby]

Swap is officially under way. :) I am fully committed now since I already sold my old tranny and rear diff. :lol:

Pulled into it's spot for the foreseeable future(hopefully not TOO long). Ready to DO WORK!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00506-1.jpg

started with some interior removal. Had to do a lot of actual throwing away of crap first, and there is still a lot more to toss. Once I finish this my car will be spotless, people will wonder what is wrong haha.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00508-1.jpg

Awaiting removal...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00511-1.jpg

Oh you've arrived. How lovely. JDM bumper that had to be folded to ship. Luckily I am smart and decided to leave it out in the sun to see if it would go back to shape. It's about 98% there. I could do it with a hair dryer but figured I'd like nature do it for me while I kept working. I got the bumper since I figured that would be easier than doing a bunch of body work to make the lip fit. I'll drop these off to get painted on Friday this week after I clean a bunch of crap off the bumper.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00512-1.jpg

Dash removed. Note to self its hard to remove when you forget one bolt...still have a lot to remove to get the wiring out but didn't get as far as I wanted, per usual.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00514-1.jpg

The sign of a project. I bet the neighbors like it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00515-1.jpg

[PHATsuby]

Late night drivetrain removal session.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00517-1.jpg

Here is what happens when you tack weld and grind down most of the welds then let it rust, THEN hit it with a drivetrain, it breaks.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00518-1.jpg

Great success! Get that NA stuff out of there!:)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00519-1.jpg

What a mess, I have to thank my mom for allowing such things to happen in her garage.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00520-1.jpg

Another reason to thank her as I take up two good stalls...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00522-2.jpg

re-welded and painted the core support with OEM paint I had mixed and put in a spray can. The paint is fine but I'm not happy with my weld job again. I need to adjust my MIG settings and do it again.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00523-1.jpg

[PHATsuby]

removing some excess weight...I'm in a dilemma here because my stock spindles only have 40k on them but are rusted as hell. I'd like to get 05+ GT ones with bolt in wheel bearings but i am not sure if the geometry is different. That would also add another significant amount of money to the project so I'll probably hold off for now and do it later after I recover a bit more.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00524-1.jpg

BE legacy crossmember compared to 2006 Sti crossmember and rack.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00526-2.jpg

Sti crossmember bolts right up naturally. I cut the spline off the legacy rack and put it on the STi rack and have it resting there in the photo.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00527-1.jpg

I need to adjust this more. The angle is not correct and is causing binding when I turn the wheel so that is the next step to solve. I believe I should be able to just cut down the legacy spline a little more and solve the issue but I will have to look at it some more. If anyone has a nice clear photo of their stock angle they want to post that would be helpful as I forgot to take one. :(

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00529-1.jpg

The only other concern is that the Sti one is coming out of the crossmember at a different angle than the legacy so it would not be possible to get the right angle without binding. Anything is possible of course but it will require some tacking and cutting to figure out.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Not tons of new stuff to report. I made general progress but finished nothing, which is highly annoying.

Just the tip. I started to work on the exhaust but didn't have any jackstands to hold things in place. Harbor freight has them for 12.99 a pair right now but naturally the one in Rochester isn't open yet. I'll pick up a couple sets for when I go back down and should be able to mock up the exhaust then.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00531-1.jpg

Front hubs/knuckles/spindles or whatever you want to call them. I'll be cleaning these up with a wire wheel and putting some POR 15 on them to try and help keep them from rusting any further.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00532-1.jpg

this was a big pain in the ass getting the legacy spline welded on the STi rack. Since my life and my passenger's lives will depend on my welds I am going to also add a metal sleeve that will span the two pieces and weld that in place as well as drill holes in the sleeve to do plug welds. This should ensure there is no way it will be breaking into two pieces. :) In looking at this photo it appears slightly crooked but I don't feel like it does in person. Either way it doesn't seem to cause any binding when I turn my wheel at the moment.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00533-1.jpg

the bulkhead harness is about 90% unplugged. As you can see I got all the HVAC stuff removed so I could get at things. I'm really hoping I can just lay the Baja turbo harness in and things plug in as expected but I'm sure that won't be the case.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00541-1.jpg

I made another discovery that my JDM bumper that looks exactly like the bumper that works with the lip I bought, does not in fact work with the lip I bought... So I will be going sans lip. It's not all bad though because I still think it looks pretty good, almost has a built in lip already. I opted to go with this one even though it was going to be more to paint.https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/jdmbumper-1.jpg

Also added to the fun was that some how while my mom was cleaning out the garage my turbo hood scoop got thrown away that was in it's unopened box... So I had to order a second one and the hood/bumper and scoop will be painted this week.

The other obstacle was being able to put the STi bushings into my control arms to work with the STi crossmember. This proved to not be possible with the way I planned to do it with my vice. It also could not be used in a regular press due to the odd shape. Luckily I found a place that claims they can do it but we'll see.

I may be able to go down and do more work this weekend but I"m not sure yet. If not I will be stalled for another couple weeks.

I'm hoping at some point things will accelerate and all come together nicely. I won't hold my breath:lol:

Ben

[PHATsuby]

I got a little bit of stuff done this weekend, again not as much as wanted. A lot of hang ups prevented me from really finishing anything to completion which is getting annoying.

this is the one thing I did "finish". The steering rack. I took a steel collar and drilled a few holes in it on each side of my original weld to do some rosette welds then completely welded around the top and bottom. Doesn't look super pretty but there is no way that thing is breaking in a catastrophic way that wouldn't do in an OEM one as well. Nice and safe.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00553-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00557-1.jpg

This prevented me from finishing the control arms: seized ball joint. I still haven't gotten it out, I'll have to tackle on the next try in a couple weeks. If anyone has tips feel free to let me know.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00559-1.jpg

The STi bushings are finally in the BH aluminum control arms! Ready to be installed now.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00556-1.jpg

instead of putting the drivetrain in from the top, which is a pain I figured I would try and slide it in from below(that's what she said..uh wait)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00554-1.jpg

Great success! I needed 28" of clearance to do this and it was basically right at 28.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00560-1.jpg

Another delay. I went to assemble my sweet suspension but realized I left one of the top hat spacers up at my apartment. Fail. I also am not totally certain if they are necessary, I believe they are but the STi instructions that are in japanese do not show them in the exploded view but all other USDM setups seem to have them and those are the top hats I'm using. If anyone knows please let me know!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00565-1.jpg

I did finish the rears though. Sweet.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00566-1.jpg

Sti drivetrain now resting in my car!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00567-1.jpg

6MT goodness FTW, I got the STi short shifter as well since I loved it so much previously. I'm pumped to be able to drive it again.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/DSC00569-1.jpg

Sadly the mechanical parts are "easy" and they still took me a long time. It doesn't help though when you install the engine mounts backwards, have to drop the crossmember again to fix it. And one of the studs for the crossmember nut was damaged so you have to cut off the crossthreaded stud. I'll be getting a replacement at a junk yard.

One apparent issue, or maybe its just a trick of my eye is that the alternator looks very close to where the hood would be or possibly over. It appears to be tightened up higher than my stock motor. Maybe I'll swap belts and see what happens.

No word on if my hood and bumper are done but they will be going on last obviously. That is it for now. I'd really love to try and finish it up over labor day but I am going to Michigan with the GF so it will be on hold till I get back.

Ben

[Garrison]

I like the attention to detail and the DIY attitude of your build. Kudos to you, sir!

[jewbaru]

great job man, i wish i had the time/knowledge/money/patience/motivation and will power to even attempt this lmao

AWESOME

keep us posted!

[anothernord]

This is a really cool and unique swap. There's only a handful of swapped BE's running around.

[PHATsuby]

my freshly painted hood, scoop and bumper were picked up today. :D Sorry they aren't great quality but I'm excited to get them on the car once it's all finished!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/hoodnewpaint-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/paintedbumper-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/08/scooppainted-1.jpg


Ben

[Wiscon_Mark]

I can't wait to see that bumper on the car...

[jewbaru]

niiiice

[PHATsuby]

I got the seized ball joint after a bit more work. I had to get creative:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/balljointtool-2.jpg

Again not tons accomplished, I seem to spend half the day running around for tools/parts then get started only to run into other issues. The big issue I ran into was the spec b axle hybrid issue. Luckily, I have already secured another stock legacy GT diff today and will be picking up a 3.54 wrx diff on tuesday. So hopefully this won't set me back too much in terms of time. I have done this rear diff swap before so it should really only take 1 hr at most(watch me run into a problem).

I finally got the front suspension assembled. I pulled the bumpstops out of the struts and cut them down about 1/2" as advised to do by others. It wasn't too hard to do once I had the proper tools.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/bumpstop-1.jpg

I just love looking at this combo. I really hope they ride decently and I am ok with it after what omahasubaru said though...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/bilsteinsassembled-2.jpg

Naturally I ran out of time to put the knuckle/control arm and tie rod together but I wanted to bolt them in for fun anyways.:D
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/bilsteinpinksinstall-2.jpg

I got a couple other things done I didn't really take photos of since my camera was dead and its annoying to do on my phone. I took a wire wheel to my front knuckles and got quite a bit of the rust off. I then painted them with rust reformer spray paint. I took the quick and easy way vs the POR 15 but it looks pretty decent and I think will be fine.

I need to figure out if I need to remove the driver's side fender or if I can just remove the fender liner to get the wiring harness out.

I put the STi brake master cylinder into place, it bolts right up as long as you have the brake booster and MC together. I have the STi pedal box ready to bolt in as well but I'd like to get the wiring out of the way first to make the install a lot easier.

Ben

[peugoby]

Wow awesome progress! Great build

[Huffer]

Car really won't be complete without a decal... ;)

[PHATsuby]

Well my original plan to work from friday to sunday was ruined by friends celebrating birthdays(damn friends lol). I did manage to go down for a single day and get the rear diff assembled though.

Luckily after my discovery on the spec B axles I found two local differentials: a 2000 outback 4.44 and a 2002 wrx 3.54 rear diff.

Obviously I need the 3.54 rear final drive to match my 2006 STi tranny but the wrx LSD does not work with the legacy axles. So I needed to take the LSD unit from the legacy diff and put the wrx ring gear on it and install it into the wrx housing. The even better part about this was that the wrx rear diff had a bad LSD unit but a good ring and pinion gear so I got it for a good price.

I have to state, for the record, that I HATE rear diff and tranny fluid. The smell is awful and it gets all over everything.

Pulled the rear cover off the legacy diff. you can see the dirt caked on the bearing caps
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00623-1.jpg

legacy unit out! I thought to myself, "hey this is going pretty smoothly, prob be done in an hour."
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00624-1.jpg

legacy ring gear removed and ready for the wrx ring gear. Surprisingly this is a LSD unit, I forgot how small it was and got afraid for a second that I didn't have one but it said "outback 4.44 lsd" on the diff and it said 40:9 so I figured it had to be from an outback which had a LSD.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00625-1.jpg

The legacy diff went smoothly. The wrx diff was the exact opposite. I had used my electric impact gun on all the legacy bolts with no issue.

here is the result of the first bolt removal on the wrx diff:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/brokencap-1.jpg

That was odd, Oh well, it will still seal right? Move on to the next bolt:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/shearedbolt-1.jpg

Sheared off. At this point it was thursday night and I got pissed so I went in for the night to think about how I wanted to tackle this issue.

After switching to just hand tools the rest of the bolts came out fine and I removed the sheared bolt with a vice grips.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00626-1.jpg

Fully reassembled 3.54 with legacy LSD with a few caveats:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00628-1.jpg

The issue that I face is i'll need to double check the tooth contact and backlash. The backlash doesn't feel excessive and no different than before since I used the same housing and didn't touch the pinion. however I had to use the legacy bearing caps and shims when Ideally I would use the wrx caps and shims. Personally I think it will be fine but I don't want to re-assemble it all and have diff noise after all that trouble so I'll check the backlash and tooth contact this coming weekend.

For anyone wondering the rear diff cover bolts needs to be torqued to about 18-20 lb/ft
the bearing caps are 8 lb/ft and the ring gear is 45 lb/ft.

I am planning to do work this friday again. I will have a full weekend so my goal is to get it mechanically totally complete, as in ready to drive once I have the wiring finished. At the very least I'd like to be done with the brakes/suspension/drivetrain so that it can sit on the ground and roll and I can mock up the exhaust.

Ben

[derrick_]

thanks for the update, can't wait to see this finished!

[PHATsuby]

well I made some progress today but encountered more annoying issues.

I had to take the rear diff apart again because I found the actual torque spec on the ring gear was 76 lb/ft so I torqued it correctly and reassembled it. I now have the rear diff and axles in the car!

Did a little mocking up of the exhaust. This is a magnaflow 5x8 oval, I think 20" length. It is a truck muffler technically lol. I wanted a bit more muffling and a deeper tone. I love the Turbo XS magnaflow exhausts and I figured this would make it even better. My plan for tomorrow is to get the ehxaust all tacked together and then finishing TIG welding it up at my friends so I can try and get other stuff done too.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00630-1.jpg

Here is the problem I ran into. I did my original 6mt swap with a 2004 Sti tranny and my 2001 auto driveshaft, no problems. Apparently they must have changed the splines because the 2003 outback auto driveshaft I have does not work. This is really annoying because i wanted to have the driveshaft in place for exhaust mock up and just to get it finished. The other issue you can see is the snout doesn't have the outside neck like on my 5mt driveshaft which I don't get. I am trying to confirm which driveshaft will work and I will order what I need this week.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00633-1.jpg

Oooh, forged control arms...it's actually starting to sort of look like a front suspension. I have to order STi lower control arm bolts because the legacy ones are too short to be safely installed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00632-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00639-1.jpg

I love the way this looks. I wonder what could make it better though?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00634-1.jpg

Perfect. Pure sex to me, and extremely functional! Yes, the wrong rotor is on there, I just couldn't wait.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00635-1.jpg

I started on the rears as well. I need to remove the dust shields then I can install the rear brembo adapter brackets.

I'm going to wake up early to try and make sure I can get the exhaust tacked together. I'll feel a lot better if I can finish that up at my friend's so I'll be able to save the time welding when I get back and can just install it.

Once that is done I'm going to get as much done on the suspension/brakes as I can and try and get the intake manifold on if I finish that but I can only work until 4pm then I have to stop and head back home.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Apparently I need to take what I think I will accomplish and cut it by 2/3... I have tons of things like 80% completed. I really wanted to get the exhaust tacked together and it started out ok but then became difficult. I probably had to get up and down at least 100 times. It's times like these where I wish I had a lift.

started the rear brakes, ran into needing to grind some material off the rear trailing arm for the bolts to fit but never got that far as I wanted to switch my focus to the ehxaust.

never removed the rear rotor so definitely needed to screw in the 8mm to pop it free.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC006401-1.jpg

Adapter bracket from KNS brakes. It's highly annoying I even have to do any grinding at all because they knew about this issue back in 2006, it would literally take moving the Sti caliper like 2mm back and it would solve the issue. oh well, guess I'll have to do some grinding next time.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00642-1.jpg

I'll make myself feel like I accomplished something. Still need to remove dust shields too.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00644-1.jpg

So today, focused on the exhaust, first had to pull the exhaust manifold to put the OEM crossover gaskets back in and bolt it together because it was clearly not sealing with the thick Grimmspeed gaskets I had for some reason. Then I ran into the downpipe not being in the correct position so I took an hour to troubleshoot that before I could even start mock up.

Let's see if I can make something out of this pile.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00645-1.jpg

Exhaust from my H6 project. Had to get a flex section out of it to use for the cat back.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00646-1.jpg

Look a downpipe in my BE legacy!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00647-1.jpg

Magnaflow muffler with STi tip. Sweet.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00649-1.jpg

most of the mid pipe is routed and tacked together. I just need to weld in the flex section and do the routing on the muffler and hangers. I say "just" but in reality it will take me half a day i'm sure lol.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/DSC00650-1.jpg


Ben

[rougeben83]

Looks good as usual Ben, I didn't know the outbacks had that much of a different shaft, I used a legacy automatic driveshaft (from a wagon) with my 05 6 speed and it worked.

[chuckthefuk]

Is it possible that the 4EAT that the driveshaft came from was ment for a H6 setup?

Always impressing the legacy community keep it up and MOAR pics pleas!

-Chuck

[PHATsuby]

yea maybe the fact that it is an outback is the issue but it should have still been a 4EAT which is what I don't get. THe other weird thing that makes me concerned/confused is that the 5mt did not go on either and it should all be the same splines I was told. maybe it's installer error or something in the way but I tried every angle to get it to slide in.

I'll likely pick up an 06 2.5i shaft tomorrow that i found locally just for safety.

Ben

[MRLancaster]

God I cant wait to see some full car shots 0.0

[rougeben83]

Do the H6 engines use the same 4EAT as the H4? I think the outback shafts are different in the carrier bearing having spacers to compensate for the body lift.

[PHATsuby]

Do the H6 engines use the same 4EAT as the H4? I think the outback shafts are different in the carrier bearing having spacers to compensate for the body lift.

That I'm not too sure about but I think it has to have been the fact that it had rust on the splines of the driveshaft and that was too much excess for the tolerances.

I just picked up a 2006 2.5i auto driveshaft so we'll see. For thoroughness I'll try the outback one again.

Ben

[rallywagon]

Hey bro I'm in the middle of a huge swap toO!!! Yours is looking amazing!! INCREDIBLE I should say haha, I love the twin turbos and everything about this-right now I'm putting my new turbo cross member in and I just need to find longer stud bolts-Then I can drop in the motor-I got a lootttt of new things like you-such as an 04 sti exhaust-I swapped the tips though with my dual loop-Your setup inspires me man-I have a lot of questions for you-mostly for wiring. I have a 98 legacy and I'm putting a 2005 LGT turbo 250 hp dual overhead cam stock motor- My old one was 135 stock hp.

[dodik]

H6 00-04 use the same 4eat as 00-04 legacies the only difference is speedo gear. h4 outbacks 4eat have different gearing.

[PHATsuby]

So a bit of an update. I am officially the slowest person in the world but I work non stop so it's really annoying.

Here is the type of crap that happens to me:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00653-1.jpg

What we have here are 3 different driveshafts, none of which I can use. On the far left is a 2003 Outback 4EAT shaft, the middle is a 2006 2.5i legacy 4EAT shaft and the far right is a 2001 legacy 5mt shaft. You can see the differences in mounting to the tunnel. I didn't realize this so I really need a BE 4eat shaft from a legacy specifically.
I had the outback shaft originally mounted and the bearing was hanging down making me have to go around it for the exhaust. Put the 5mt shaft in there for mock up(not put in the trans though) and it was able to run straight into the flange. The difference is due to the outback having a higher ride height and they have to keep the best drive shaft angle. So now I get to buy a 4th and hope that it is the charm. The only positive news is that I got the 5mt splines to go on to the STi tranny so it should be fine.

TIG welding the exhaust which took way to long to do per usual. It would have been easier if my work bench wasn't a complete disaster and I had a metal welding table.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00656-1.jpg

Finally finshed. I MIG'd most of the axle back portion except for the flange since I'll be painting it anyways but TIG'd the midpipe. I"m going to paint it black with VHT paint so all you see is the tip. Nice and clean. I tried to tuck it up pretty tight to the rear diff but left some decent clearance. I hope it doesn't rattle on hard turns or I"ll have to add some speed dents...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00662-1.jpg

I wanted to feel like I accomplished something again so I loosely installed the intake manifold and TMIC to get an idea of how it will all look. Get's me pumped but I know there is still a lot to do. I also discovered that the TMIC won't bolt to the bracket because I think the downpipe is not bolted to the transmission. I'll have to figure that out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00660-1.jpg

Goals for next time:
Get it to a rolling chassis state
Install fuel pump
start on wiring

I'd like to get to a point next week where I have hopefully one more weekend that is just wiring, but I'm sure I"ll run into wiring issues as well...

Ben

[rougeben83]

lol Ben, I told you, get a BE/BH legacy auto driveshaft. :razz: I went through the 3 shafts when the 6 speed was put in as well (first I went GC RS -> WRX -> auto BH)

[chuckthefuk]

At least you didn't go with an R180 and have to swap yokes :-p

[PHATsuby]

At least you didn't go with an R180 and have to swap yokes :-p

I did, I put the R160 flange on the R180 I had first lol.


Ben

[PHATsuby]

made some progress today, took the day off from work to try and get some more work done lol.

Finally got the rear suspension in and the rear brakes. Ran into some issues with the stainless steel lines being too long so I'll have to look up what to do about that.

Removed the dust shields, this was probably the best part of the day the way the spot weld drill worked haha.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00663-1.jpg

Harbor Freight FTW
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00664-1.jpg

NOTE, DO NOT DO THIS. Here is where I was a complete F'ing moron. I think in my quest to just get things done I wasn't thinking. So I thought I needed to be able to install the bracket into the backing plate THEN put the brakes on. So to do that required quite a bit of grinding. After I finished the grinding and installed the first caliper I realized I could just install the adapter bracket onto the caliper then install the whole assembly. That would have only required slight grinding.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00666-1.jpg

Brakes and suspension installed, just need to figure out the brake lines and the rear end should be good.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00669-1.jpg

painted the axle back portion with VHT Flame Proof paint, it won't actually cure until I idle the car for the first 20 mins but I think it looks good.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00671-1.jpg

I finally got the correct driveshaft and got it installed, it's a miracle! This allowed me to install the exhaust. I think I need a thicker gasket for the axle back connection, things got a little warm when welding.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00672-1.jpg

The exhaust looks pretty sweet, I just hope it sounds good too.

I got some 06-07 wrx front axles so I will install those tomorrow along with the front brakes. I checked the abs rings and even though they are thinner than my legacy ones they are the same diameter and tooth count so they should work.

After the front axles and brakes I'm going to focus all my efforts on wiring tomorrow and see if I can get it all laid in the car.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

thanks STidarkside, I'm looking forward to getting it going as well.

I made ok progress this week but still not great. Mostly got some little things done but it really helped me determine things that should hopefully help me finish it up. I found out that the rear Technfit stainless steel lines are too long so I need to order some custom made ones for the legacy from them.

I did do some quick aesthetic stuff. I think I'll have to keep them...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00677-1.jpg
here is the material that was needed to remove. I have yet to tackle the wiring and likely won't until I get the car actually running.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00678-1.jpg

I got the STi brake master cylinder bolted in now along with my pedal assembly. I discovered that the STi pedal box does not fit the legacy, but luckily the pedals do. I also was about to try and deal with the DBW pedal mounting then realized I should look up the baja pedal assembly as it should be bolt on. It has a mount that I probably only need but I'll get the pedal assembly as well just in case and if I don't need it I'll just return it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00683-1.jpg

complete bulkhead and front harness removed from the car, what a pile of wiring.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00679-1.jpg

So roomy with nothing in it!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00680-1.jpg

Subaru in a box! I will say I'm pretty pumped to be putting in all new wiring, and it is a lot easier to install the wiring compared to taking it out. It's great to have nice new wiring and nothing all hacked up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00681-1.jpg

This is where all the magic happens, the two engine connectors connect on the drivers side next to the fuse box. I can definitely see why it would be advantageous to remove the fender, it was a lot of wiring.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00682-1.jpg

Turbo ecu plugs and no soldering necessary! I think I decided I will just run the two wires for the fuel pump controller and not use the baja rear harness so I still need to do that. Nothing is permanently installed besides the front hearness yet but it's mostly in place.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00685-1.jpg

Just begging to be used...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00687-1.jpg

I also got the front axles installed along with the front tie rod ends but they are not in final position I need to adjust toe in.

I wasted an hour today because somehow my 04 STi ecu has gone missing...for the life of me I don't know where it went. WTF. Ironically while we were looking we found the hood scoop that was lost, it was moved by someone other than me and put under blankets. I really hope I can find that ECU. The garage has been cleaned/rearranged since I started and apparently I don't organize things well enough. That's $250 wasted if I need to buy another one...

Overall, I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Main things left to do before driving:
Install fuel pump
Wire in Fuel Pump Controller
Install DBW gas pedal
Finalize wiring position
Install steering column/adjust steering
Install TMIC
bleed brakes
fill with fluids
tighten all bolts


Naturally, none of that is possible without the ECU so the next weekend I can work I will either hopefully have found it or I will have to order another one. While it may be possible to accomplish the list in a weekend, I won't have a full weekend to work next time on the 22nd so it's likely it will be two more weekends.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

well, naturally didn't get the car started. Just didn't have time with all the family functions(which was the real reason I was at home). I got a bunch of random things accomplished which inches me closer to being finished.

I picked up the Baja gas pedal and bracket on Friday. It is good I got the pedal because it was needed to put the pedal in the correct position. Sadly I wasted about 1.5 hours trying to get the STi pedal off the STi assembly to put on the Baja assembly. After I got the STi pedal off and started on the Baja one it was also being difficult so I said it wasn't even necessary and just moved on. The position as it sits is too low in relation to the brake so I will use a couple washers to move it up and hopefully it will help the ability to heel toe. Yes it really bothers me that they don't match.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00825-2.jpg

Did a bunch of random things in the engine bay: tightened down the intake manifold/TGV's, hooked up the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder, installed the front 02, put on a new oil filter, put on the drivers side TMIC bracket so it sits level, etc
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00826-1.jpg

started on installing the fuel pump but ran into an issue. The thing is huge. It had been a while since I had seen my old Supra fuel pump but this is definitely larger.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00832-1.jpg

Here you can see the issue, the plastic will bow out a little but not enough to accomadate. So I have to either get a stock STi fuel pump and hope it works or cut some of the plastic to use the upgraded Supra pump. I'll have to deal with that next time.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC00835-2.jpg

I got the interior wiring more permanently mounted. I swapped out the clutch switch sensor to the correct one. I ended up having to get a new STi ecu which I have and am keeping in plain sight so it doesn't go missing...

I need to decide where to put the fuel pump controller and how to wire it, I'll likely look at that this week.

Disappointed that I didn't get it started but I knew it would be hard to find the time. Looks like I'll be buying a new propane heater so I can keep working in the garage during the cold months...

Ben

[rougeben83]

Maybe this can help with your pedal issue:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... =pedal+wrx (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1355774&highlight=pedal+wrx)

Also, for the pump, the 04-07 sti ones will fit plug and play. There's a problem with fitting anything oversized in the BE fuel basket because of the whole plastic cage thing and the fact that it sits low in the tank, its similar to what the 05-10 LGT guys are finding out when they try to put something like a walbro pump in their cars. Check LGT.com, I've seen a couple of solutions for it, but nothing cheap or elegant so far.

[PHATsuby]

Thanks Ben,

Unfortunately the issue was more that the tension pins were not pulling out at all easy. The STi one broke off when I was trying to pull it out. The baja one was not coming out any easier so I just said screw it for now.

Good to know on the STi fuel pump, that is likely what I will do in the interest of time.

thanks for the help!

Ben

[d1giPhux]

holy crap man! awesome build!

what i really want to know is.. how the hell do you afford all this stuff? are you a trust fund baby or something? :lol: either that, or you must have no bills!

either way.. sick build! cant wait to see it when its complete! :smt023

[PHATsuby]

holy crap man! awesome build!

what i really want to know is.. how the hell do you afford all this stuff? are you a trust fund baby or something? :lol: either that, or you must have no bills!

either way.. sick build! cant wait to see it when its complete! :smt023

Nope, no trust fund. If that were the case I could just not work and finish my car in a month lol. As for bills I have Rent, cable, internet, heat, food, gas and car insurance to pay plus take my girlfriend out every now and then so she doesn't cry. I just save my money/invest my money and then do crazy projects when possible.

i'm eager to get it finished as well.

Ben

[Soul Shinobi]

I've found a couple ways you could save some money... And if you're lookin a little porky, make that three.

[d1giPhux]

:lol:

[PHATsuby]

Strike Two. Failed again.

I made some progress this weekend but did not reach the final goal(sounds like a broken record). I would have ended up being rushed to try and get it started and would have had to plug everything in temporarily to test and I figured I should just re-install everything because anything I would need to change I can access anyways.

I installed the STi fuel pump, goes in with no issues as I had been told by others, too bad I didn't go that route the first time...oh well.

I also got the fuel pump controller wired and this took a decent amount longer than anticipated because I wasn't totally sure on how I should do it. I assume I did it correctly but I won't know until I get it started and go driving. I ended up keeping the legacy rear harness and just ran 2 wires from what should be the fuel pump + and - up front to the controller.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00837-1.jpg

This was kind of a side project but I finished putting the two clusters together and it is now a single unit. I just need to get my overlay cutout and it should look pretty much OEM. :) I used some stuff called Apoxie Sculpt to secure it in there. Think of clay but that is a two part epoxy and dries hard. I think I'll need to sand down the back a little but I"m pretty happy how solid it is and how it turned out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/finishedcluster-1.jpg

I started to reassemble the interior after I decided I was going to go that route. it is starting to look like it could be a car again.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00840-1.jpg

Pretty much OEM. I installed the a/c condensor and radiator to get them into place. I also test fit the air box to make sure I was routing the wiring correctly. the air scoop is from a WRX and is a little short so I will likely look for a baja one this week.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00838-1.jpg

Found a Cusco heat shield laying around so I figure I'll use that. Looks pretty good and will function, its good since I didn't have a stock one to use.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00839-1.jpg

I made a couple discoveries. I need to wire in the STi speedo sensor plug since it is different from the Baja. I also need to wire in the legacy wiper motor plug as that is different as well. I believe that will be the extent of the wiring. Pretty sweet to do a full swap and only have to solder 14 wires. Not including the cluster obviously because that really isn't necessary.

At this rate I'm gonna stop making predictions lol and just get it finished when it's done. It sucks because it was nice this weekend and now will be about 15 degrees colder next weekend. I got an electric heater that did nothing so I'll have to get the propane one like I planned for next time.

Ben

[Mr Evolution]

Great Job,

I will hope that you'll able to finish before the New Year, but with all the holidays coming up your family duties and friends might get in the way again (j/k)

Good luck on the rest of your build.

:smt023

[Perdue]

So beautiful...Most of us only dream of this swap and compared to the trouble I've read about other's going through, you make it seem like cake. Can't wait to see it done.

[PHATsuby]

Thanks guys, I hope I can finish it soon it's very close. It's definitely not easy at all but I'm glad I can make it appear that way, I must be a good liar lol.

UPDATE:

Strike Three. Time to part it out. Jk. ;)

Once again I failled to get it to the point of starting. A stripped torx bolt on the steering wheel in the 11th hour forced me to stop and pissed me off to a point where I needed to stop :lol:

I did accomplish quite a bit though. It was all little things but I am A LOT closer now. I did not appreciate all the things you have to do when basically rebuilding a car.

The engine bay is almost totally finished. I had to go through and make sure all the sensors were plugged in, had to reconnect all the coolant and pcv/vacuum lines and had to look up to make sure I would putting the correct lines in the correct places. Installed the power steering lines and got that all hooked up. Got the starter installed and hooked up, wired in the STi speedo sensor as the plug was different than the Baja. I also filled up the tranny with OEM Extra S tranny fluid. Did I mention how much I hate the smell?

I ended up having to run taps through a bunch of bolt holes that hadn't been used in a while to make them usable. I hooked the boost control solenoid vacuum lines all up and even found a way to use the OEM bracket. It should look pretty much factory when I'm done which is my goal. But the biggest goal is to have it run like factory.

Out with the old and in with the new. I spent friday evening soldering and wrapping and swapping the dash harness. Let's hope I have the cluster wired correctly...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00866-1.jpg

Here is what it should look like when I'm done. Sweet. I still need to drill the holes in my legacy plastic cover for the cluster knobs and then I can put the cover on it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00868-1.jpg

The cluster was not sitting down and I discovered why. The two recessed portions on the OEM cluster has been filled in with the apoxie sculpt. This is annoying but hopefully with some dremeling I can get it to sit down flush into it's spot.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00867-1.jpg

I like this shot, it is so close. I need to put oil and coolant in the engine, hook the fuel lines up, bleed the clutch, wire in the rear 02 sensor and the engine bay should be complete.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00869-1.jpg

I got the interior a bit closer as well. I got the HVAC completely bolted in and put the dash bar back in preparation to put the dash in. Before I put the dash in I wanted to re-install the steering column and take the steering wheel off which is where I ran into that issue of the stripped torx. It is my fault it stripped but it's really annoying to have it happen at a critical juncture. I will have to find one of those extractors now and see if I can get it out.:mad:

Again weather was ideal for this time of year. Unfortunately the next time I can work on it is Thanksgiving break so I'm sure it will be much colder by that time. I got a new thermocouple for my propane heater so hopefully it will work but I didn't get a chance to install it. I didn't want to waste time on it while it was nice out.

Let's hope it's all this attention to detail is worth it in the end.

Ben

[Mr Evolution]

Well, since you have a bit of time on your hands, because you're not working on the car itself. Maybe we can get a checklist of what works for the car to fit together. It might be a little to early for that, but doesn't hurt to get that started.

My current goal is getting a house, but in the future this would be a great thread for me and others to reference when it comes time for my build.

I like factory reliability and is a key reason I never heavily modded my other cars.

Happy Turkey day.

[PHATsuby]

Well, since you have a bit of time on your hands, because you're not working on the car itself. Maybe we can get a checklist of what works for the car to fit together. It might be a little to early for that, but doesn't hurt to get that started.

My current goal is getting a house, but in the future this would be a great thread for me and others to reference when it comes time for my build.

I like factory reliability and is a key reason I never heavily modded my other cars.

Happy Turkey day.

Sure I can make a list, are you just wondering what parts I used? Once I have it going I'll give you a list so I know it is complete haha.

Ben

[Mr Evolution]

Basically a list and hind sight reflection on what you would did differently, like putting your hood scoop in the proper storage lol j/k.

Won't be done till your build is actually put back together

[Yamazaki]

Basically a list and hind sight reflection on what you would did differently, like putting your hood scoop in the proper storage lol j/k.

Won't be done till your build is actually put back together
Kind of like a "project diary", right? Yeah, that's a good idea.

[Mr Evolution]

Basically a list and hind sight reflection on what you would did differently, like putting your hood scoop in the proper storage lol j/k.

Won't be done till your build is actually put back together
Kind of like a "project diary", right? Yeah, that's a good idea.

YamazakiSubaru: Where will you be moving? Staying Japan? Wish I could have contacted you earlier about some decals.

A PDF on "How To Get STi On Your BE/BH"

[PHATsuby]

Well it is inching along towards the finish. Still have not started it, been dealing with other stupid things. There is oil in the engine and tranny, I wll put coolant in the engine tomorrow as well.

I discovered that I actually already had the rear 02 hooked up, it was the neutral and reverse switch plug that I don't have because on the STi they group it into a 6 wire plug and run it straight through the firewall. So I need to track down a turbo 5mt harness plug.

Also just discovered that there were a couple plugs hiding by the turbo underneath the manifold, got one out but the other will not move and it looks like the reason is that one of the wires is pinched under the intake manifold. :mad:

It is starting to resemble an interior again now that I have the dash back in. The wires still aren't all hooked up but there are more hooked up than before. some of the stuff on the baja must either be in different places or the new harness is bundled wrong as some of the plugs seem like they are not going to reach where they need to be.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00875-1.jpg

Hopefully I can look at this while I'm actually driving the car soon... I got the STi steering wheel installed and just as a future note for anyone wanting to do this, just swap the whole column, it will be WAY easier. There are a couple things that don't quite work but should be fine in terms of the signal stalk bolting on the legacy column. I am also crossing my fingers that my clockspring is ok, I am concerned I over rotated it before properly setting it. That would be another pain in my ass I'd need to fix.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/DSC00874-1.jpg

I have 2 of 3 fuel lines hooked up, I need to go get a barb to connect the return line tomorrow then I'll actually have the ability to get fuel to the motor haha, just one more step towards the finish.

On a positive note I fixed my propane heater by replacing the thermocouple on it so now I will have heat for tomorrow when it gets a lot colder outside.

I'm at the point where I want to just be done but I don't want to rush it just to finish. Ultimately I need to be done by Jan 1 because I will start studying for the CFA again so all car projects must cease.

That's it for now, hopefully I can get more stuff done tomorrow.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Well, I was hoping to have some good news to report but unfortunately I don't. I did get a decent amount accomplished this weekend. The full rear end of the car is basically finished. I still need to bleed brakes but the rear diff is filled with fluid, the axles are popped in, driveshaft bolts are tight, the brakes are tightened and the lines are tightened as well. I ordered the KTC 13mm diff plug socket and even though it's pretty damn expensive for a socket it is definitely handy for dealing with the diff plugs especially a seized one like mine.

I could basically set it on the ground in the back but I'm going to wait obviously until I bleed to brakes and get everything going first. Looks pretty good though I think.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/DSC00880-1.jpg

The actual work in the garage wasn't too bad thanks to the propane heater. A balmy 66 degrees, it was probably on average around 55-60 degrees.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/DSC00881-1.jpg

Propane heaters do not have 100% combustion so carbon monoxide will build up over time in closed areas. Be very careful if you use one in a closed garage. For safety I took the carbon monoxide detector from our house and put it in the garage. It's likely hard to rear but this read 42 PPM which was about the highest it ever got. Studies have exposed workers to about 44 PPM for 8 hour days with no real issue, however it would be better if there was no exposure obviously. Typically it read 0 and if it ever built up I would turn it off and open a window for circulation. That is the lesson for today.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/DSC00882-1.jpg

So I was all excited and hopeful I was going to be able to start the car right before I had to head back to the cities. As you can see the main fusebox is now in place and hooked up. I loosely put the TMIC in there and connected the PCV system just to eliminate that as causing a problem.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/DSC00883-1.jpg

I hooked up the battery and noticed the rear tail lights were on, that was odd. After the fact I think I figured it out and this photo confirms it, the parking light button was on. I'm hopeful that was the only issue.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/DSC00885-1.jpg

So I turn the key and immediately I notice there is no illumination on the cluster and no sweep or mileage/outside temp, goddammit. Oh well, it should still at least start if it's all good. Nope, I put the clutch in and turn the key and nothing happens. At that point I was pissed and confused. Originally I was thinking maybe there was no check engine light which would mean power is not getting to the ecu but I believe there little symbol above the coolant temp is the check engine on this cluster. The only positive is that I have all the other signals lighting up in comparing it to this pic:
*edited for size*


So now I'm left wondering what the issue is with both the cluster and the wiring. The cluster concerns me less because worst case I can run a baja cluster for now even though I really don't want to. The car acted like there is either no starter relay or the ignition wires are not hooked up. Both are a possibility as not everything is totally connected but I thought I had all systems hooked up that needed to be for it to run.

Sadly this will likely have to wait until Christmas break to be looked at. Better stock up on propane...

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Definitely still lots of work to do but...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/th_M4H00886-1.jpg (http://s756.photobucket.com/albums/xx207/whitemagicbmc/STi%20Swap/?action=view&current=M4H00886.mp4)

Ben

[chuckthefuk]

Oh you look so happy.. I feel your joy.

[rougeben83]

congrats on the test fire. The wheels moving part was kind of funny at the end lol. Good thing the car was up on all 4 jacks!

[PHATsuby]

congrats on the test fire. The wheels moving part was kind of funny at the end lol. Good thing the car was up on all 4 jacks!


Thanks Ben, haha, yea good thing, but I can't imagine it would actually move the car if it were on the ground. My friend said that is common but who knows, doesn't seem like it should happen in neutral...

Ben

[Garrison]

congrats on the test fire. The wheels moving part was kind of funny at the end lol. Good thing the car was up on all 4 jacks!


Thanks Ben, haha, yea good thing, but I can't imagine it would actually move the car if it were on the ground. My friend said that is common but who knows, doesn't seem like it should happen in neutral...

Ben

Definitely normal for the wheels to move while the vehicle is in the air (even in neutral), but no you're correct it won't move while on the ground.

[PHATsuby]

Just a quick update. I figured out the starting issue, it was as I suspected, no cam reference due to not plugging in BOTH cam sensors(they were hard to see). Once I plugged them in it fires up no problems. :) Sounds sweet. I am hoping it will be one more weekend and I'll be driving the car. It may not be 100% done on the interior but I want to shake it down.

Ben

[PHATsuby]

Well, got some more stuff done today. Slowly but slowly getting there...

This is why I hate working in the winter with no heated garage. Started at 0 degrees today, makes it very hard to want to work in those conditions.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00912-1.jpg

Got the 2003 gauge cluster installed. It's amazing what chrome rings and black overlays does to the look, I like it. I have too much invested to ditch my other cluster but I'll definitely be fine leaving this for now. :)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00905-1.jpg

Goodbye to car audio days. This rats nest has been in my trunk for years, finally got around to removing it so I can carry the STi spare and have a clean trunk.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00915-1.jpg

Starting to look like a dash again, gives me some hope it may actually be driveable again some day.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00916-1.jpg

If anyone was curious what it looks like with the carpet removed here you go. Totally bare. I kind of like it, it's very hardcore. I won't really be doing much racing so I don't care as much about weight. That's what my next project is for. ;)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00917-1.jpg

It's a new car! Nice new carpet. No more drinking or eating in my car lol.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00921-1.jpg

Oh, hello there.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/01/DSC00922-1.jpg


I wasted a ton of time trying to find where the cruise control module plugs in only to finally discover there is none. All my diagrams and even opposed forces shows one for the turbo(or rather my diagrams must not specify non turbo). The cruise is all controlled by the ecu which is what I thought but found multiple places saying that the part number for my legacy CC module worked on the baja(one place said turbo as well).

I still need to solder wires tomorrow, correct the steering and bleed the brakes/clutch. The big hold up is the stupid bulkhead harness in the fender area I feel like it is not sitting in there properly and I can move it to where it needs to go to have the clips snap in place. I don't want to work it too much because I already have the fuse box in place so I'd assume everything else should be close but I guess not.

I'd really like to take it for a test drive but that may be a lot to ask and likely take all day. We'll see what happens.

Ben

[Chief]

very nice!!!! good work! how much is all this stuff? in Russia it all together worth approximately 7000-8000$

[Dead91silvia]

Holy side scroll Batman!

Cool you got it running though! Wanna see it on the road!

[PHATsuby]

very nice!!!! good work! how much is all this stuff? in Russia it all together worth approximately 7000-8000$

I should move to Russia lol.

Ben

[Chief]

Welcome, buddy!!

[LGT Kirby]

Simply amazing. Keep it up!

[beeda]

My fav build for sure. Can't wait to see it back together man!

[tylerkroh]

I must say ive been following this build since before i was even a member of this site, this is such a cool and well thought out build.

[PHATsuby]

Thanks guys,

I'm battling an issue right now where the gauge cluster will not light up when I turn the lights on, and yes the dimmer is all the way up. I'm trying to figure out the issue. I have tried a few different gauge clusters and it must be a different issue because all have the same problem. I obviously can't drive at night until I solve this. I will try and get the car to the point of being on the ground tomorrow though if I can.

Ben

[chevyman1968]

I love this build and I am looking forward to the final product! I hope you have been able to work out the issues man!!!!

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

How did I miss this? Awesome build and you got another follower waiting to see your GT hit the road with it's new heart!

[nikolaus.conrad]

I love how detailed your thread is! Excellent work!! I only dream of doing something like this to my car

[charlo696]

Any updates? I'm currently looking to swap my car again for a sti ver7 and i have some questions... I currently have a wrx 2004 in my car and i was looking for an upgrade since it's anoter 2.0 and i heard that the wiring is almost the same.
Thanks!

[PHATsuby]

Sorry guys haven't kept this updated, I am not getting notifications I guess even though i thought I was subscribed. After that last post I basically had some bad shit happen. GF of 4.5 years cheated on me that very weekend of the last post, I found out about it a week later and dealt with moving out and trying to deal with having the person you loved the most do the worst thing ever and breaking up.

It's been a process to recover from that and in the mean time I attempted to study for CFA level 2 exam which proved very difficult.

All that crap being said. Here are updated pics, I am back in trying to get it done(started again 2 weekends ago) and I am STILL having the illumination issue. I am hoping to figure that out soon because otherwise it runs and drives, but I have no fans turning on. So I still have issues to sort out but it's close.

Driven out of the garage for the first time:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/06/legacynohood-1.jpg

Sitting on STi pink BE lowering springs and Bilstein HD struts. Still will settle some but I like the stance.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/06/legacysideshot-1.jpg

New Tails :)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/06/jdmtailsedited-1.jpg

Pushed the bumper on to see how it looks
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/06/legacyhoodclosed-1.jpg

Looks done but it's still got work to do.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/06/legacysti-1.jpg

Video clip of the exhaust, it sounds better in person IMO but still like it either way. Glad I went with the larger muffler.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/06/th_legacystiexhaust-1.jpg (http://s756.photobucket.com/albums/xx207/whitemagicbmc/STi%20Swap/?action=view&current=legacystiexhaust.mp4)

Ben

[nikolaus.conrad]

LEGIT. Fantastic work! Maybe you have some fuses blown somewhere? I'm terribly sorry to hear about your girlfriend, nobody wins in a situation like that.