Oh for the love of God.. P0325

[ShadowGT]

Hello.. no time, no see! Been busy.. traveling, work, band, family, life.. so on so forth.

So.. here's the deal. This week, the CEL has been giving me a P0325 and nothing else. No blinks, just turns on and stays on. One code, the P0325. I have a reader. Knock Sensor Failure or KS circuit failure. Car runs fine. No misfires, no audible weirdness or any other mechanical tomfoolery.
I'm sitting here at work, won't have time to address this for a few days. Left my Haynes book somewhere..
Where the hell is the knock sensor? I googled a picture of it.. ok, but I don't think I've ever seen it before.
On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being: I can do it in my sleep and 10 being: Pray to the deity of my choosing. What would it be?
(Realistically 1 is changing the battery, 10 being changing the clutch)

How much time do I have before something really bad happens? I work shift work, duty rotations. Can't just do this tomorrow.. need to order the part and stuff.. all the while still drive my car to work. (36 miles round trip daily on the highway)

Thank you. Glad to be back. I've done much to my car which I will update soon.

[Chausx]

The knock sensor is located near cylinder 4 so the cylinder closest to passenger side firewall(starter side) underneath the intake manifold. Its a pretty simple job. From what I've seen the reason most people get this is because the knock sensor actually cracks and you effectively lose the ability to sense the knock if it ever happens. For a job its not that bad I'd say maybe a 3 its a 12mm bolt and a wire to disconnect and the reverse order to put back into place. A socket, extension 10" and a ratchet is mostly all you need maybe a little di-grease for the connector.

[ShadowGT]

The knock sensor is located near cylinder 4 so the cylinder closest to passenger side firewall(starter side) underneath the intake manifold. Its a pretty simple job. From what I've seen the reason most people get this is because the knock sensor actually cracks and you effectively lose the ability to sense the knock if it ever happens. For a job its not that bad I'd say maybe a 3 its a 12mm bolt and a wire to disconnect and the reverse order to put back into place. A socket, extension 10" and a ratchet is mostly all you need maybe a little di-grease for the connector.

That makes me feel better. So it's on the block near the back but under the intake manifold. I take it it's the passenger side. Starter is on the drivers side on my car.
Seeing how everything this past year on my car is about replacing aging and cracking bits, I can totally believe the sensor cracking over time. I just rolled over 160,000 miles so it seemed fitting that the first thing to happen was this.
Now to find a decent replacement.. 70 bucks from Autozone seems a bit steep.

[Chausx]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/DSC_0050-1.jpg

Here is where its located I meant driver side sorry disoriented myself when I thought about it. but if you look at the gap between your throttle and the cable theres a random 12 mm bolt right there.

I was sorta playing around so I took a pic to help you out lol.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/SubaruLegacyProject019-2.jpg

around there :)

[ShadowGT]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/DSC_0050-1.jpg

Here is where its located I meant driver side sorry disoriented myself when I thought about it. but if you look at the gap between your throttle and the cable theres a random 12 mm bolt right there.

I was sorta playing around so I took a pic to help you out lol.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/04/SubaruLegacyProject019-2.jpg

around there :)

Thank you, you are the man!

[ouch1011]

You may not notice it unless you get on the throttle below 3000rpm, but a knock sensor code actually causes a pretty considerable power loss below 3000rpm because it pulls a lot of timing as a fail safe. When my knock sensor failed, I knew immediately because the CEL came on and the car instantly became dog slow. Didn't run bad, didn't misfire, just had no power. I've diagnosed enough knock sensor failures to recognize it.

Its really an easy job, 20min tops. OE replacement is around $90 but far better quality than the parts store junk.