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View Full Version : Hydrolock or bad tensioner?



LegaWaga
05-06-2011, 10:14 PM
So, I ended up doing some off roading which turned into water fording....didnt go so well. The stock intake on my 2000 Legacy sucked in a ton of water, enough that the motor stalled and you could see the water in the cylinders with the spark plugs out, at least the passenger side pistons at least. We pulled and dried the plugs and sucked almost all the water out of the passenger cylinders, then bumped the motor. With a few tries, it turned and blew out the rest of the water and was turning smooth. Put the plugs back in, crank it up, and sounds like rod knock, with water pouring out of the muffler.... The weird thing is, when we gave it just a little gas, it would try to stall. Then, we heard a pop, the motor stalls, and coolant comes flowing out from where the water pump is located. We have the pump pulled now and tomorrow we will put in a new one, put it back together, and try to crank it again.

Questions are, why would the water pump blow if the motor took in water? That makes me think bad tensioner, which could also sound like rod knock, but as piston slap? If it helps, with the passenger plug wires disconnected, the car would start, have a rough idle, but the knocking was way quieter, but not gone. At that point the sound did sound like it came from around the pump.

What do you guys think? I am crossing my fingers that I didnt bend a rod or something...

Thanks!

LegaWaga
05-07-2011, 11:23 AM
bump?

Legacy89
05-07-2011, 12:22 PM
If water got in to the cylinders and then got compressed (water don't like that) Then yes, your rods might be bent.
Pressure might also have damaged your head gasked and put som unwanted pressure on your cooling system, but the pump seems unlikley since it should have a pressure control valve to avoid too high pressure.

Most likely the passenger side cylinders got a bad rod.
Also: check your dipstick for traces of water/coolant that should also give you a clue of what the problem is.

Btw: Give it a little bit more time than 12 hours before bumping, people see your thread even tough my thread is just on top :P

LegaWaga
05-07-2011, 02:42 PM
Sorry, I am just used to pretty quick responses on here. lol

So, found the culprit, the block cracked. Time for a motor swap! I will put up pics later. More to come...

Legacy89
05-07-2011, 05:49 PM
EZ30 or EJ20Turbo? :P

csweston
05-07-2011, 05:59 PM
ej22t block w/ your current heads, harness, intake manifold. Add piggy back and boost :)

LegaWaga
05-07-2011, 11:37 PM
ej22t block w/ your current heads, harness, intake manifold. Add piggy back and boost :)

Sir, if you would link me to details about that, I would forever love you! I have a lot to learn in Subie land coming from Toyota-ville.

csweston
05-08-2011, 12:03 AM
I dont have a lot of time to post about the topic now but heres a brief overview.

Its hard to come up with any one specific link for this swap. However some basic info on it is that the stock EJ22T heads are claimed to be some of the worse flowing heads Subaru every made, so its common to use different heads.

Stock block is closed deck and can handle 300 hp at the crank w/ stock internals (with different turbo and supporting mods). As with all EJ series engines it will bolt right up to your trans.

Some people have merged the harnesses, some have ran the EJ22T ecu by itself while keeping the other ECU to run everything else, and lastly running it how i mentioned on the stock ECU while using a piggy back. However if you have OBDII, it will limit you because of emissions.

Not sure what year your car is? But ill find some useful links and post back up later.

LegaWaga
05-08-2011, 01:06 AM
Thats and awesome start. Im reading some of the noob threads right now. Thanks man.

Edit: My car is a 2000 L.

csweston
05-08-2011, 02:49 AM
Okay, small break from studying.

Things youll also need are the wrx/sti/ (possibly the legacy turbo) cross member. If you keep your heads, youll need to tap in somewhere for oil lines for the turbo. You'll want to use the EJ22T head gaskets if you decide to go this route.

Since your OBDII (emissions regulations in you area?) you wont be able to use the EJ22T ECU, so that leaves you with a merge or using your current harness w/ piggy back. The best piggy back seems to be the Greddy E-manage Ultimate. Basically as close as you can get to a standalone while still being a piggy back unit.


Edit: You can also merge a wrx wiring harness with the EJ22T one and yours then use a wrx ecu.

LegaWaga
05-08-2011, 03:09 AM
NC has weak emission laws that are easily by passible if needed.

csweston
05-08-2011, 03:14 AM
That makes it easier. You have a PM btw.