Car buying advice for the guy who's only ever owned one car.

[Wiscon_Mark]

I test drove a 2003 Impreza Outback Sport (listed online here (http://autohelpers.net/inventory/view/2225631)) today.

Besides the obvious headgasket issue with the 2.5L engine, anything notable? The car drove quite nicely other than a slightly wooden clutch feel, which I chalk up to the hydraulic clutch vs. the cable clutch I currently have on my 95.

Suggestions?

TIA.

[98outbackpdx]

take the car to a shop who can check over the car for mechanical and for any past body work, specifically frame damage. i really would be worth it. i have gotten screwed even buying a Subaru from a Subaru dealer, so i would really recommend taking the car somewhere to someone you can trust.

[ouch1011]

^^ Ditto. Have a trained, professional mechanic look over the car and give you a detailed list of its needs BEFORE buying the car. Not only is it good for you to know, but it is a good bargaining point. Pre purchase inspection is often in the $150 range for a very thorough inspection.

If the car has more than 90k miles on it, it needs to have had the timing belt AND belt idlers replaced. Early 2000 Subarus had issues with the idlers wearing out prematurely, and potentially seizing up and breaking the timing belt. Broken timing belt on a 96+ Subaru=junk engine. I've had about 6-7 newer 2.5s come in (SOHC and DOHC) with either seized or seizing idlers, and every one that broke the belt wrecked the engine.

If the head gaskets are leaking externally (common on the phase 2 EJ25) plan on about $1500-$1800 to replace them and machine the heads. So factor that in to the buying price if needed.

[Wiscon_Mark]

When you say externally, do you mean oil in the coolant, or do you mean oil outside of the engine? I took a quick look and everything was quite clean.

[02_Legacy]

also i recommend getting carfax. If you are buying through a dealer they should get it for you.

[98outbackpdx]

also i recommend getting carfax. If you are buying through a dealer they should get it for you.
Carfax does not show everything. Auto Check i think is a little better but it is only good if someone reports an accident to the police or to the DMV. The only way the VIN search companies work is if someone reports the accident, and some dealers and mechanic shops do report on car fax for services they have done but not always. my brother bought a 1987 Honda Accord and the carfax came up clean and so was the title. it turned out to be a huge money pit, but it had been rear ended and pushed forward into another vehicle i am guessing it was pushed into, and that accident did not show up on carfax. so i would say your safest bet is to take it to a mechanic that is familar with Subarus and body damage spcifically frame damage. if you had a bumper replaced not to big of a deal but it it is when you start having to replace body panels that is a whole can of worms potentially.

[ouch1011]

I would say 50% of the phase 2 EJ25s I've seen in the shop had the head gaskets seeping externally. And by externally, I mean that the head gaskets were leaking oil and/or coolant to the outside of the engine.

[Reason]

Carfax, all though not always 100% accurate, check for fluid leaks. Drive the car with radio off and listen. Check coolant reserve for oil residue. And if you can get a compression test and.bring it to an autobody shop and have them look for past repairs.

[Dead91silvia]

Carfax is for the most part a waste of money. If it eases you mind then go for it, but I used to work for a shop that fixed insurance totals. We had cars with re-built/branded titles from them just being keyed. I'm not joking, 5 year old loaded 4 Runner need a paint job and it was branded rebuild. My GT has been side swiped when it was new (vary nice repair), hit in the front (how I got it), and then I t-boned a Ford Fusion. Nothing wrong with a wreaked car, if the repairs have been done right.

As for the motor, ALWAYS count on getting a timing belt, water pump, bearings, and plugs done. It's just logical. I sell all my customers timing componit kits, not just belts. Seen to many broke bearings and tensioner's. As for the HG's, I havent seen to many problems with the newer 2.5's.

A do agree with the others here in having a Mechanic/bodyman looking at the car if you are not one. I have been bit a few times, but then again I've owned over 70 cars...

Body inspection run down:
-Look for broke paint on fender/hood/door bolts. That will tell you if it had new panels installed most of the time.
-Look at the side of the car and get a GOOD refection! Sometimes bad body work will not be noticed, unless its from another angle.
-Look at the frame rails. Not many people know what to look at, but any bodyman looking at my BD can tell I have a bent pass. rail I have not pulled yet. The damage on my car make the hood open/shut a little off (to me) and also the pass fender is off a tad.
-Look to see it the bumper cover's are off at all! That could mean it got hit by more then a parking lot impact.
-Look at the core support. Subarus have sucky core supports and they get bent to crap all the time. May have been crashed, but could be from a bone head using a jack on it, thats not a good jacking point at all... And hard to fix the right way...
-Look to see it any of the trim has over spray, or badly masked. That will tell you if its had a re-spray...

Thats all I have time for, but I hope that gives you a little more insight to looking at a new car to get... A car that has been worked on/crashed is not a bad car if the re-repair was done right, but there are some REALLY bad re-build cars out there. My sister has a Honda Accord and a 4Runner that have both been re-builds and they have never had a problem with anything out of normal maintenance.

Good luck!