window tint

[peter]

Im looking to get some tint but I dont want to pay the shop here to do the whole car cause their nice stuff is about $400-500 and the low quality that they say will turn purple is @255 for the whole car. I think I would have them do the back window (it looks like a PITA) for $80-110 with the nice stuff and buy and install my own for the side windows. My question is though whats good stuff to buy and how much would I be looking at?

[ubar legacy]

I got mine from a seller on ebay, filmvantage. its precut tint, and it seems to be pretty good quality (especially for the price). and it comes with a warranty. you can get the front and back side windows, the little triangle side windows, and the back window for like $35 shipped!! and they have really fast shipping (I got mine in like 2 days!)

[Huffer]

I just had a guy tint my wife's car for $150. Did it in 2hrs and it looks great. For the price, I couldn't justify doing it myself because if I messed up, I'd be out an entire weekend AND the money I spent on the supplies. But if you've got plenty of time and want to give it a shot, precut tinters on ebay do a really good deal. Make sure it's 3m or llumar tint though. And look for 99% feedback. Anything less and steer clear.

[BG5guy]

use SunTech film, high quality. And dang, 4-500 bucks, thats nutz, out here in beaverton it 175-200 for 7 window wagon

[peter]

Awesome I'll look into some eBay stuff

[peter]

So far here is what Iv found, having trouble deciding on what to get. Heat resistance is important and the 3M stuff lists the heat resistance at 36% and 66%, but the Llumar doesnt list it but another website listed it as 47% Im not sure is the 66% 3M is worth the $160ish it costs, but the Llumar seems like good middle of the road stuff for about $10 more then the cheaper 3M. What do you guys think? And what percent do you think would be good? Night time visibility is important so I was thinking of 25-35 on the fronts and back and 15-20 on the rear sides but I think that seller only does 5, 20, 35, and 50. Would 20 be a good all around compromise without going too dark?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-4DR-SEDAN-95-99-PRECUT-WINDOW-TINT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1998Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQ7cModelQ3aLegacyQQhashZitem5642da95f2QQitemZ370488808946QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5925wt_939

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-4DR-SEDAN-95-99-PRECUT-WINDOW-TINT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1998Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQ7cModelQ3aLegacyQQhashZitem5642f6d7d9QQitemZ370490660825QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_6827wt_939

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-4DR-SEDAN-95-99-PRECUT-WINDOW-TINT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1998Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQ7cModelQ3aLegacyQQhashZitem56451fb80aQQitemZ370526894090QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_6847wt_939

[Huffer]

Go with what's legal in your state - usually that means 50% front and whatever you want behind the driver's head. If you don't mind $100 "illegal tint" tickets, get 35% all around. You'll have good vision at night and during the day. Backing up/reversing will be the only issue unless you have nice bright backup lights.

Don't worry about heat resistance - light IS heat. So the darker you go the cooler the car is, but keep in mind that you let less light INTO the car.

You should be able to get a full install of precut tint for $30-40 shipped on ebay. I have a set in my car that I've been waiting to use. I need to redo my front doors.

[peter]

Here I can legally do 35 all around. But cops don't care. A friend of mine has 5% and no problems. And there is some 30-40$ precut on eBay but as good quality. I checked out the seller that was recommended and 3m and llumar stuff is more spendy. 100$ isn't that bad though I can deal with that

[ubar legacy]

Here I can legally do 35 all around. But cops don't care. A friend of mine has 5% and no problems. And there is some 30-40$ precut on eBay but as good quality. I checked out the seller that was recommended and 3m and llumar stuff is more spendy. 100$ isn't that bad though I can deal with that
Id suggest 35 in front and whatever on the back. And 100 bucks may not be bad, but remember, if you screw up, that could get spendy. I personally recommend the filmvantage stuff on ebay..but that's me

[peter]

I'm thinking I might do that, 35 on the fronts and 20 everywhere else. And I'm going to buy from filmvantage but I think I'll get the 3m or llumar stuff they have instead of the 40$ stuff

[89bk]

Peter, I just came across your thread. Do you have any updates?

[peter]

I decided on the mid priced 3M stuff that's actually dropped in price since then. I'm thinking 20% rear and 35% on the front 2 but I've put it off and haven't ordered yet

[89bk]

Well, I'm going to give you some general information that hopefully proves helpful and I hope I don't overwhelm you. But knowledge is a good thing and it can help you make better decisions. The following information is not all-inclusive nor all-comprehensive so I will not be including all the details that there is to know about films. So, here we go:

The legal limit for film darkness (technically called visible light transmittance) is 35% in Oregon (and you already mentioned this). This is for film applied to the front, back, and rear windows. If you decide to go darker, such as a 20% film, you're using illegal film for your state (but that would be up to you to decide). As for the safety issue of what's too dark at night, what might be too dark for one driver may not be for another driver. But you must also consider if you live in a metropolis with a lot of street lights versus living out in the country with no street lights. Or, if it is raining at night, that will reduce visibility. Hitting an animal because you couldn't see it can be catastrophic, but hitting a human will be life-altering. I have 35% film on my front windows and live in a small town with hardly any street lights and one night a mother and her child crossing the road scared the wits out of me because I didn't see them until they were within ten feet of my car and I was going about 30 mph.

With the three links you have posted above, you have a choice of Llumar's ATC, 3M's CS, and 3M's FX Premium films. You posted that heat rejection is important for you. The Llumar ATC 35% film rejects 35% of the heat, the 3M CS 35% film rejects 40% heat, and the 3M FX Premium 35% film rejects 37% heat. (If you want to consider other films, go the film manufacturer's website and find the performance specifications chart. Then look for the column "TSER" or, Total Solar Energy Rejected -- the chart will tell you how much of the total heat is rejected by that particular film--darker film does not always cut out more heat; it depends on what the film is made of). Oh, btw, film manufacturers have different series of films; Llumar has four or five, 3M has seven, etc.; and each series of films is made for a specific purpose or for a certain kind of customer in mind. So, if you are shopping for a film, don't go only by the brand name, you must consider the series of film so that you can compare apples to apples.

The three films you referred to are made especially for cars that use GPS or satellite radio so that the film does not interfere with the signals. However, if you don't use GPS or satellite radio or listen to AM band radio, a hybrid film (part dye and part metal) will give you much better heat rejection, somewhere in the area of 48-53% heat rejection. In BG5guy's post, he recommended SunTek film. SunTek has the new CXP 35% film that reduces heat by 53% AND it doesn't interfere with GPS or satellite radio signals, but I don't know if you can buy that online. That film installed is more expensive than other films at the tint shops but it shouldn't cost $400 or $500. I've heard of tint shops in AZ that will install the CXP film for $250 to $350 for a sedan but pricing can be wildly different even in the same town, so you must shop around for a reputable shop, a good installer, and a good price for the film that you want.

Oh, by the way, "the stuff that turns purple" (entry-level dyed film) shouldn't cost $255 to install. Maybe $125 but not $255. IMO, tint shops who are interested in their customers and in quality don't even carry that kind of tint.

There are a lot of good films out there but selecting a film can be a daunting task if you're looking for the optimum-performing film for your specific needs and/or wants. You need to decide what is you really want in a film -- heat rejection, visible light reflection (the higher the % figure, the shinier the film will look, especially in low light conditions), hue of the film (gray or neutral film comes in hues of blue, green, greenish yellow, brown, and everything in between), composition of film (dyed, premium dyed, carbon, nano-carbon, ceramic, dyed/metal, all metal, etc.), quality of film, GPS/ satellite/ and AM radio reception capabilities, pricing, warranty, and other factors. There is also bronze film, too. And, I don't really think you're looking for green, yellow, red, or blue films.

You mentioned in your post that you're thinking of having a shop tint the back window for you and that you would do the side windows. Here is something to keep in mind: If you don't have the same film that the tint shop uses, chances are VERY great that there will a difference in the color of the film. It may be a slight difference or it may be a huge difference. If the difference in color is easily seen, you may be very unhappy with it.

Installing the film yourself can be quite a project if you've never done it before. But it IS easier to install film on the door glass on Subie's because there is no door frame around the glass to contribute to contaminating the installation with specs of dust under the film. Different films may need different installation techniques. Thicker films are easier to handle than thinner films. Some films heat-shrink better than others so contouring the film to glass that has a compound curve is easier to do. These are just some of the factors to consider. YouTube videos of film installation give you an idea of what to expect, but they don't tell you the nuances of techniques and other factors that can make for a professional-quality installation.

The squeegies that come with self-installation kits are not usually the best although they can be used. Professional tinters have access to much better squeegies. One thing I WOULD recommend, is to get an Olfa knife with stainless steel snap-off blades. Some hardware or fabric stores sell them. The generic brands of knives found in hardware stores and often in self-installation kits usually have inferior blades (nowhere near as sharp as the Olfa blades).

It's late and I think I'm rambling so I'll end this posting here. But, if this post has given you even one thing to consider that you haven't considered before, then it's accomplished its purpose. Best to you in getting your Subie tinted! : )

[mycargoesvroom]

$400-$500 to tint windows?! You've got to be kidding me right?! The average tint job shouldn't be more then $200 and that's pushing it. Shop around and get some quotes from more then one shop, ask people in the area who've had their windows tinted where they got them done, and make and educated decision before you waste hard earned money on a DIY job gone wrong. Tinting the rear window is a big PITA if you've never done it before.

[B's Legacy Wagon]

great thread with lots of information. i to have been doing my research online and comparing local shops around portland/beaverton. and still really tossed up between paying the 200-225 for them to do it compared to getting the pre-cut system stuff online for around 90-110 and i have all the time in the world now with retirement, i have watched many videos on U-tube to give some confidence.
Main thing i am thinking about now is summer time dark looks great tint. But It might not be as good as i can see you at night and inclimate weather. considering how much rain we get here lol. another thing i throw in the debate is the legal limit. i know oregon is 35% and with a wagon i fall in some MPV/suv catagory so i can go darker on rear and quarter glass. iam also assuming i can go darker on middle passenger windows possibly.
So far i thing of going with the 35% on front 6" windowshield visor area and front/middle windows. and 20% on rear and quarter glass. i dont think the diffrenece will be to noticable between the quarter glass and the middle windows.
Great info here again thanks alot guys.

[Huffer]

If you're sneaky, just ask a local pro tinter if they'll do a job on the side for cash.
I found a guy that works full-time for a detailing shop but has his own business on the side - did an 03 Accord (5 main glass + 2 smaller quarter panels) for $150 cash. Supplied his own tint, materials and workshop bay. He even gave me an instruction sheet on how to look after it all and a lifetime warranty.

Tinted cars in inclement weather are actually fine - the only issue is with reversing at night time unless your brake lamps are great. Tint basically cuts down on the overall glare which is good any time of year. I've never been darker than 35% on the rear windows, which is plenty to take the edge off the heat etc. If you want it for privacy, then go 20% on the windows behind the driver. You'll need the visibility on the front windows to avoid stupid tickets.

[dodik]

the autozone film is not bad i had it for about two years now with zero fading (checked by cops lol) iirc you'd need two rolls for the whole car. and dont get cheap films the shop did my back window 4 years ago now it looks like 80% instead of 20% it used to be although it was suppose to be the good one.

[89bk]

i know oregon is 35% and with a wagon i fall in some MPV/suv catagory so i can go darker on rear and quarter glass. iam also assuming i can go darker on middle passenger windows possibly.
If wagons are considered MPV/ suv in your state, then, yes you can go darker on ALL the windows behind the driver's and front passenger door windows.


So far i thing of going with the 35% on front 6" windowshield visor area.
Just a thought on using 35% on the windshield visor strip: If you want it for cutting glare, I would recommend going darker, especially if it is direct glare from the sun. On my car, I have a double layer on the visor strip -- a 15% and a 20% doubled on top of each other. For ME, with the Arizona sun, that works fine. When I'm driving directly into the setting sun, there's that space around the inside rear view mirror that the visors don't cover. It's really blinding when the sun happens to be glaring right through that area and the double layer of film cuts the direct sun's glare for me.

Oh, another thought about visor strips: Most tinters will use the factory straight edge for the bottom of the visor strip. Unless the windshield is flat, both ends of the visor strip will hang down lower than the center of the tint strip. Some people like the look, others don't. Also, if the center of the strip is 6" below the top of the glass, the ends may be much lower (it will depend on the curvature of the windshield), and if an officer is really picky or just having a bad day, he can cite you for the strip being lower than the legal limit. But, if you keep both edges at 6", then the middle of the strip may be much higher and possibly ineffective in stopping the glare from the rear view mirror area.

On my car, I have the whole strip cut to curvature of the top of the windshield. This way there is complete coverage across the entire windshield as well as meeting the law's requirements. However, the tint shop may charge you extra for it. Also, unless the tint shop has a computer program and computerized film cutter, the visor strip will have to be cut by hand, which means you will not have a perfectly even curved edge all the way across the windshield.

[98outbackpdx]

check with the pro tint shop at the end of the month, they might have a special going on.

[peter]

Good to see this thread brought back with so much great info. Thanks guys