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View Full Version : 97 Ej25 DOHC valve adjustment



1-3-2-4
07-25-2011, 08:08 PM
I'm waiting for the rest of my timing belt kit to arrive along with some gaskets but I have a question about the shims for the valves I have a inch micrometer that does 0.0001" From what I understand to find what replacement shim size I need I do this:

1.) check current clearance with a feeler gauge mark the number
2.) look at the current installed shim size
3.) find a shim that puts the valve back into spec?

My question is do I have to subtract anything as far as the clearance for the replacement shim?

This is my first time owning a vernier mic I'm just getting confused reading the ten thousandths part

chuckthefuk
07-27-2011, 01:44 PM
Have you check the FSM for procedures?

ouch1011
08-03-2011, 01:51 AM
Your procedure is correct. All you need to do is measure the current clearance, subtract the clearance spec for that valve, and add that to the thickness of the current shim. Just fyi though, taking the shims out requires removing the cams, its quite a labor intensive process. Mine didn't need any adjustment at about 150k.

1-3-2-4
08-03-2011, 09:59 AM
well I'm almost at 230K and as far as I know it's never been adjusted. I gotta remove the cams anyways ti take the head bolts out to do the HG so I really don't care that I have to take them out.

1-3-2-4
08-18-2011, 02:31 PM
I think I got it here

one head alone is like almost $30 in shims....

I will leave out the valves that don't need new shims..

So for the intake it was .18 with the 2.56 mm shim so to get it to .20 I need a 2.54 mm shim

for the exhaust side same stuff..

.18 mm with 2.48 shim = 2.41 for .25 mm?

drivers side is going to be real fun with everything all mixed up...

having said that whos job is it to take out the lifters mine or the machine shop? I might just take them out since I already have the passenger side bagged.

chuckthefuk
08-18-2011, 02:36 PM
I am acutally researching a shimmless bucket conversion for my buddies EJ207 but from what I have been researching and speaking to the machinist's they say there is really no point in avoiding shim replacements.

After years of wear and tear the shim thickness starts to wear down and even though some of the shims looks good why would you want to run some new and some used shims?

Replace all of them and have some peace of mind. Don't do the job twice :-D

The machine shop should really be removing the valve assembly not you *if* you plan on having them do the work.
-Chuck

1-3-2-4
08-18-2011, 03:38 PM
I checked the pax side all were ok but one as for wear.. But I understand where you are comimg from