Ladies WRX wagon went stage 2 last night... my concerns.

[harrymaneuvers]

So last night I finally got around to installing a new Invidia catless downpipe last night in the girlfriends wrx wagon. Install was a breeze. Hardest part was drilling out the anti-fouler for the cel mechanical fix. Took about 2 hours to grind it out with a dremel.


Anyways... I take it for a test run last night after flashing to stage 2 ACN91 octane. I am driving around for maybe 15 minutes or so without pushing it and then start laying on the throttle.


To my surprise, the car is over boosting. Throwing the P0244. It does this twice and each time I clear the code and drive a little longer before trying to open it up.


Then this morning, I take it out for a drive prior to going to work and notice that the car is boosting to 18.4 and holding between 17.8 and 18.4 psi through at least the first 3 gears (automatic). This time no CEL codes at all, no detonation, pinging ect.


I go to my local tuning shop and he suggests getting the stage 2 map with the lower wastegate duty cycle... Cobb doesnt make a map like that.


So what are everyones opinions??? I am pretty concerned that 18.4 is quite a lot of boost for a 140k mileage car with nothing but bolt on...

I also read the the AP V2 doesnt measure past this amount which makes me think that it is actually boosting higher than 18.4


Engine mods are:

Access port flashed stage 2 with ACN91 Octane
Perrin Light Weight Crank Pulley
Perrin Intercooler Hose kit
Perrin Afta-mas tube
K and N drop in
Invidia Catless downpipe
STI OEM catless uppipe
OEM catback

[Huffer]

I'd get a cable and start data logging. Welcome to the nightmare.

Is it possible that you had an exhaust leak last night that sealed itself during the morning drive because of temperature changes?

[harrymaneuvers]

Im just gonna spring the $400 and get a pro tune and be done with it. This is my ladies DD so I want to just get something safe and fun so I dont have to worry about it while I switch focus to audio and the front end widebody conversion.

[harrymaneuvers]

Well now I am wondering what else I should do prior to the protune to make the most of it?

The tuner said I dont need anything but I am wondering about a manual or electronic boost controller...

Thoughts?

[Huffer]

If you're not planning anything else in the power mods, get some gauges to keep any eye on things. But you shouldn't need a boost controller if you're planning on letting the ECU do the work. Just make sure your engine mods are solid and reliable.

[harrymaneuvers]

Yea I already have the SPT gauge that attaches to the top of the steering column, but I havent installed it yet. I will shortly.

Besides that... all my engine mods are pretty straight forward... right?


I mean it is really just the Downpipe, uppipe, LWCP, and the intercooler and intake tubing.... although the actual intake setup is still original.


I dont plan on doing anything else to the engine until I am ready for a bigger snail (probably a 16G), injectors and fuel pump.

[Huffer]

Just get the tune then...after you install any gauges you need. AFR is a good one, same with boost and oil pressure.

[harrymaneuvers]

Got it. So then either I mount the AP or I actually install the 3 pack of gauges where the clock goes.

[Huffer]

Well you don't absolutely need the gauges - but they are there for piece of mind. Basically, when you get tuned, you're putting all your faith in the tuner's ability to produce a reliable, safe tune for your motor. That means not leaning the AFR out too much but not dumping a ton of fuel in either which would make the car expensive to run. A good tuner will ask you what you're looking for - maximum HP, torque or overall driveability.