How to turbo a hybrid motor?

[nikolaus.conrad]

I'm thinking about doing a hybrid motor build (2.2 block with 2.5 heads) in the future and I'm wondering what kind of turbo to use? Would a turbo from a 1990 to 1994 Legacy turbo work? Thank you! :smt023

Edit: I apologize if this has been brought up before, I couldn't find a post on it.

[Garrison]

The turbo you're suggesting would work fine, but it would run a lot like a jetta tdi; that is to say great for getting from 1500-3500 rpm boost and great from stoplights. That's about it. By going with that turbo you would be selling your proposed setup short. I would suggest nothing less than a td04 and preferably something a bit larger.

[anothernord]

That turbo would be WAY too small. It wouldn't hardly be able to push past 10 psi, and it would taper down horribly.

At minimum, get a TD04 from a WRX. Even that will limit you quite a bit, look for a VF39, TD05h, or something in the 16g range, and you'll be much happier.

[lord flashheart]

i think this is my area of expertise.
hybrid long block is a inexpensive way to go. the ej22 bottom end is strong and the EJ25D heads flow numbers rival that of a STi.
sooooooo im gonna give u a short run down.
so if your car has an EJ22 in it its slightly harder.
i personally would recommend a car that has a 2.5 in it already. why?
1 beacuse the Ej22 manifold and the EJ25 heads are not compatable. so you wouldnt have to swap it.
2 EJ22s are easyer to come by becasue the damn things never break.
3 the Ej25 ecu revs to like 6600 rpms before fuel cut. the EJ22 hard fuel cut is 6000. (soft fuel cut feels like 5800 to me)
4 you dont have to have timing covers and crap like that.

also, there are quite a few parts i would recomend having to help with fitment.
legacy turbo take-off parts are going to be your friend.

- Idle air control valve (the 90-94 legacy turbo one has an elbow on it that makes fitment easier.
- unless you have engine management in mind, use a VF10 or VF11 because they have a plasitc elbow on it which makes fitment much simpler.
and your injectors will only handle 7-9lbs. and both those turbos are good till over 12 psi.
- AFR guage.
- any OEM (JDM or USDM) exhaust manifold except of of the EJ255/EJ255 (because they require a different oil pan.
- oil return and oil feed lines from any DOHC turbo car, EXCEPT the twin turbo engine.
the EJ25D heads have the oil galley for the turbo feed/return. not mod required.
- Forester XT intercooler.

also be prepaired to cut your cross-member. or swap a legacy turbo cross-member in because the turbo cars have a notch for the up pipe.

i gotta run but if you have questions about it post in my build thread. im more than happy to answer questions on it.

[anothernord]

Don't forget a turbo water pump if you're using an OEM turbo manifold. Aftermarket ones will clear the N/A one though.

It's not that hard to fit a 2.25" 90 degree elbow on the turbo if you want to use something that doesn't have the elbow cast in.

Flashheart pretty much covered it though.

[lord flashheart]

doh.
forgot about the waterpump.
good call anothernord!

[nikolaus.conrad]

Thank you for replies!

Garrison- I really don't know turbo size number or letters (TD04) what does this mean? I'm just stepping into the world of forced induction engines so I have a lot to learn. I know the basics, so I'm not a complete noob. yay lol

Lord Flashheart- I have a dead 2.5 DOHC engine I'm tearing apart, so I have both heads and intake manifold. I'm just keeping an eye out for a low mileage 2.2 if I ever come across one. I'm sure I'll be Emailing you in the future :smt023

Anothernord- I'll keep an eye out for that too, I imagine all the Impreza forums would be selling those? also, what would be the difference between a TD04 and TD05 turbo? I can find more for the TD05 but if the TD04 works better then I'll stick with that.

Again Thank you! I've read over Lord's and Anothernord's builds quite a few times, so if I ever have any questions I'll be sure to ask!

[anothernord]

TD04 is just the "part number" of the turbo. It doesn't really mean anything as far is denoting it's size or anything. Anyway, it's good for 390 CFM at 14.7 ish PSI. The TD05H-16G, which is a particular turbo from the older JDM WRX's that a lot of people like, flows 500-something CFM.

Bottom line: The TD04 will give you a fun torque kick from 3-4K, but then it dies off quicker than a fly. The TD05H-16G will carry power all the way to redline.

Other turbos to look for would be the VF39, VF22, VF30/34, or a small 16G-sized turbo.


My recommendation? Since you're new to this all, just grab a cheap VF11 from a turbo legacy to tune/mess with, then after you figure out how to get everything running well, upgrade.

[Garrison]

I like this site
http://www.ztechz.net/id4.html

[nikolaus.conrad]

Awesome! I'll be reading that page for the next few days.

A few questions I have at this point:
1. How much boost should you run on the 2.2 with 2.5 heads hybrid? (Less than 5psi for DD?)
2. How do you adjust the amount of boost you want?
3. How would you go about to tune the setup?
4. Would I need a piggyback to run a VF11 turbo setup?

I know that these questions depend on what kind of turbo I would be running, since you recommend the VF11, then that's what I'll start with and see how it goes from there.

[GTDrifter]

added to favorites...thanks flashheart

[Garrison]

Awesome! I'll be reading that page for the next few days.

A few questions I have at this point:
1. How much boost should you run on the 2.2 with 2.5 heads hybrid? (Less than 5psi for DD?)
2. How do you adjust the amount of boost you want?
3. How would you go about to tune the setup?
4. Would I need a piggyback to run a VF11 turbo setup?

I know that these questions depend on what kind of turbo I would be running, since you recommend the VF11, then that's what I'll start with and see how it goes from there.

1) Hybrids have the beauty of lower compression without much displacement loss (I think they come in at ~2.3L) which means you aren't limited to 5psi. 12-15psi with Sti headgaskets *maybe*
2) Different ways: wastegates, boost controller (manual or electronic)
3)AEM F/IC 30-1910 or Greddy Emanage (Blue or Ultimate) (You need something to help retard timing to eliminte knock in higher psi applications); unnecessary below ~8psi.
4) No

[lord flashheart]

word on the street is there is a dude in colorado, who has this hybrid and he runs something like 19lbs on it and has had it up to 23lbs or some craziness like that. the bone stock EJ22E should handle 11 or so lbs. i plan to make a shoot for 300WHP with mine.
see, the EJ22 phase 2 uses the same crank and rods as the EJ205. but it has SOHC, and the combustion chamber is something like 35ccs or so,
if you put EJ25D heads on it which can flow as good as STi heads (with unshrouding), have a clover combustion chamber (which gives you a good 'quench' area) of like 52cc it takes your compression ratio to like 8.5 to 1.
its basically a EJ20 thats been bored out .2 liters and has STi heads on it.

[anothernord]

Yes, I was actually mentioning the guy in CO who had this setup (he's not the only one) but he tried to blow it up by just cranking the boost to 23 PSI on the track, and it still didn't blow. That doesn't mean it was untuned, but it shows that it didn't detonate at that level of boost. Maybe he just got lucky. Either way, I wouldn't run that much boost anyway.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Jesus! I think I read about that, pretty amazing to hear such a thing. I wouldn't run that much all the time, probably hardly at all or never. I'm just looking for a bit more punch from a stoplight is all, maybe 7psi or less for a DD. Like I said, with just starting out, I want to learn more before I jump into something ridiculous like that :smt016 It's pretty cool that these parts that run our ordinary cars everyday can be bolted together to make a beast motor like that. I understand that tuning is everything, that is what is making me so nervous about this kind of build because I'm worried I'm not going to tune everything correctly.

I have heads from a 1997 Legacy GT, so they are mechanical. I'm looking for a later year 2.2 like a 1997 to 1999 because Subaru reworked the engine to lower friction in the cylinders and the have slightly more power than the older ones. Would these be a phase II?

Edit: I thought the EJ22E was the Australian domestic market EJ22? Correct me if I am wrong.

Double Edit: sorry, double post.

[lord flashheart]

if you are only going to run 7 lbs, i would say just use a stock EJ22. cuz like i said if you change the head, the compression goes down so your boost is less effective, if that makes sense.
7psi on a stock EJ22 is roughly the same as 10 or so psi on the low compression version.

[nikolaus.conrad]

It does make sense, I understand, because the 2.5 has a larger combustion chamber as you stated above. I'll probably still go with the hybrid build if I ever want a larger turbo later on :smt023

[redlegacygt]

Im actually going this hybrid build route as well. I have an line on a 2.2 bottom end and have ej25 heads sitting at the house. I also have 22t internals that i may throw in as well. Also have a tdo4 and wrx intercooler but will prob sell that for a forester xt intercooler. Hopefully i can pick up a greddy emanage blue and should be ready to go.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Cool beans! I was looking up prices for the Greddy Emanage and since I'm just starting out, I'll stick with my basic setup for now lol. I already have an intercooler from a previous (not successful) project. It's a slanty intercooler from a Japanese WRX. I've test fit it on the Outback and everything clears. I'm just not sure if it'll fit when the turbo is installed.

Hey, you live in Danville! I just passed through a few weeks ago to go to Knobles!

[lord flashheart]

dont use the EJ22T pistons tho, it will drop your compression ratio pretty low. but cool man, im glad to see people opening there eyes about this engine.


the Slanty will work. thats the one i have on my car. the best one for your car is the 06-07 WRX intercooler with the Y pipe kit.

[nikolaus.conrad]

You're starting a trend, Lord Flashheart :smt025

The 06-07 WRX intercooler is the thinner one correct? Also, my slanty has no BOV, is there another place I can add one?

[redlegacygt]

Cool beans! I was looking up prices for the Greddy Emanage and since I'm just starting out, I'll stick with my basic setup for now lol. I already have an intercooler from a previous (not successful) project. It's a slanty intercooler from a Japanese WRX. I've test fit it on the Outback and everything clears. I'm just not sure if it'll fit when the turbo is installed.

Hey, you live in Danville! I just passed through a few weeks ago to go to Knobles!


haha well thats cool. its a good thing you went when you did, its totally under water right now.. some of the worst flooding in years...

[lord flashheart]

people dont know me in real life. ima looooser.

yes, its almost the same intercooler as the FXT one, but the WRX one is slanted on the blowoff valve mounting area so it clears the throttle cables.
JDM wrx Version 1-2 and the Legacy turbo use a "in-line blow off valve, there should be a port on the elbow of your intercooler. thats where it attaches..
if you cant find one when you decide you need one, i have like 4 of them so PM me and ill sell ya one cheap.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Cool beans! I was looking up prices for the Greddy Emanage and since I'm just starting out, I'll stick with my basic setup for now lol. I already have an intercooler from a previous (not successful) project. It's a slanty intercooler from a Japanese WRX. I've test fit it on the Outback and everything clears. I'm just not sure if it'll fit when the turbo is installed.

Hey, you live in Danville! I just passed through a few weeks ago to go to Knobles!


haha well thats cool. its a good thing you went when you did, its totally under water right now.. some of the worst flooding in years...

I believe it, northern Pennsylvania got slammed with rain from Lee. Williamsport got 4 inches in a day.

[nikolaus.conrad]

people dont know me in real life. ima looooser.

yes, its almost the same intercooler as the FXT one, but the WRX one is slanted on the blowoff valve mounting area so it clears the throttle cables.
JDM wrx Version 1-2 and the Legacy turbo use a "in-line blow off valve, there should be a port on the elbow of your intercooler. thats where it attaches..
if you cant find one when you decide you need one, i have like 4 of them so PM me and ill sell ya one cheap.

Hahahaaa nooo :smt016

The guy I bought it from used it on his 2.5RS which he had swapped with an early JDM STi engine (1994 or 1995 I think). There is a 90 degree elbow on the piping right next to the turbo which I think is what you are talking about.

[TGX4776]

this is bad for me to be reading at the moment. trying to save money :(

[nikolaus.conrad]

LegacyCentral.net BBS forum is for all the 1st gen Leggy owners, people parting out their cars usually sell turbo bits for dirt cheap. I'm probably not helping you try to save money :smt016 lol

It kind of makes me miss my 1st gen Legacy, even though it was front drive with an autotragic :smt022

[nikolaus.conrad]

With this hybrid setup, what type of head gaskets would you use? I just thought of this a few days ago.

[Garrison]

Sti head gaskets.

Btw, this should put an end to all the debate of the ej25d being weaksauce.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t39629-boosted-ej25d.html

[mycargoesvroom]

Sti head gaskets.

Btw, this should put an end to all the debate of the ej25d being weaksauce.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t39629-boosted-ej25d.html

Skully is a beast.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Sti head gaskets.

Btw, this should put an end to all the debate of the ej25d being weaksauce.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t39629-boosted-ej25d.html

Skully is a beast.

Holy Shit.

[mycargoesvroom]

This used to be Skully's car a few years back http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2039969 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2039969)

[nikolaus.conrad]

What a monster, I hope who ever gets it doesn't destroy it.

Will the coolant channels flow well? I've heard that the STi head gaskets make the heads heat up more than the block.

[mycargoesvroom]

Actually the current owner destroyed it and is now parting it out :(

[Garrison]

Actually the current owner destroyed it and is now parting it out :(
Link to thread?

[nikolaus.conrad]

Actually the current owner destroyed it and is now parting it out :(

Such a shame :'(

[csweston]

I've always heard that STi head gaskets will cause the pistons and valves to hit?

[nikolaus.conrad]

I've always heard that STi head gaskets will cause the pistons and valves to hit?

I don't think so, as long as your timing is correct you shouldn't have that issue.

[mycargoesvroom]

Actually the current owner destroyed it and is now parting it out :(
Link to thread?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2189077 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2189077)

It hasn't been updated in a few months so I'm not sure what he's doing with it. He'd had it for sale with bad headgaskets for months, then fixed it and broke something else then started the part out.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Ok, so after a few months of thinking/gathering some parts, I've decided I'll boost a 2.2 then work my way to the hybrid build. How would the VF11 handle boosting a n/a 2.2? Will the compression ratio throw me off or would I be alright?

Also, I had a though. How do these sort of builds hold up in cold weather? what sort of precautions and maintenance do you need to do to keep your engine running properly in a colder environment?

Thanks Guys =]

[Garrison]

The comp. ratio of a 2.2 isn't really going to give you problems at your boost levels, but just understand that it becomes a very limiting factory if you were to ever want to crank up the boost. High comp. + lot'sa timing + >8-10psi boost = knock, knock, boom.

Your goal is to help the engine as much as possible, so things like an intercooler and premium fuel are a necessity. If you feel like dumping a few hundred more dollars into the setup, I would genuinely recommend a apexi SAFC as a basic means of controlling fuel (they also make a box for controlling spark/timing too). These will allow you to tune out all the niggles you're going to encounter when you build this.

The build itself LOVES cold weather, (colder air is denser, contains more molecules, better more powerful combustion). What won't love it is your oil. Change it something like 5w, or 0w synthetic (always use synthetic from now on. The oil holds heat much better due to it's synthesized [read: consistent] manufacturing) for the winter and go back to 10w or 15w in the summer.
People will say colder plugs help... I'm not convinced. I ran 1-step colder NGK's and ended up having to pull them 4 or 5 times to get them to gap down properly, .027" gap(still got misfires at idle) and when I pulled them out they had a solid coating of black around them (unburned carbon deposits), which could have caused it. But, that being said, even the most offending cylinder for the misfires, cylinder #1, its sparkplug electrode was the color it was supposed to be after ~1000miles of driving (grayish-tan color). Also, colder plugs will help out up top in the rpm range. The colder plug removes heat from the combustion chamber thanks to its thicker core, it transfers the heat to the heads, so you'll notice the heater running much warmer while you use them (not such a bad thing in the winter, eh? :wink: ). This allows the combustion chamber to run hotter (like if you were using a turbo that was too small and running the dog shit out of it, for instance) without risking detonation.

Are the necessary....? No. Are they helpful, absolutely. The decision is yours, but if you had EM I would recommend them. If not, look for misfires at idle and carbon on the plugs.


Edid: I just looked at your location, and colder plugs would be a bitch to start in the depths of winter. Basically anytime the temps drop below freezing it's going to be a little bit of a PITA to get it started. Once your get it started though, it's all good.

[nikolaus.conrad]

The comp. ratio of a 2.2 isn't really going to give you problems at your boost levels, but just understand that it becomes a very limiting factory if you were to ever want to crank up the boost. High comp. + lot'sa timing + >8-10psi boost = knock, knock, boom.

Well yeah lol. In the future when I upgrade I'll get external engine management so my engine doesn't go boom, Like I said earlier in this post I'm just starting out so I'm looking into a very basic and easy build to learn on. I'd only run about 5lbs of boost on the n/a 2.2 I didn't know how much of a difference it would be from the turbo spec 2.2. I have an intercooler I'll be adding so that won't be an issue =]

Yeah New York winters can be a bitch, soooo I'll probably not go with the colder plugs right now lol. That and I just changed my plugs about 5,000 miles ago with NGKs =]

[Tinobag]

How long do you think it would take to swap a 2.2 block onto an already running 2.5 thats in the car? Maybe not turbo right away. But just get the motor in and running. I would like to get a 2.2 in my DD, but I would have to do it on the weekend. Going to use a 2.2 block with my 2.5 heads and a cheap TD-04 (for now).

[Garrison]

I'm not positive on this, but I think dropping your compression ratio that low without turboing, it will probably not want to run right. Might as well plan the whole build and compete it in a 3 day weekend or something.

[Tinobag]

Got it. Thats what I was thinking would happen. So I'm going to have to put away some time for this. Thanks Garrison.

[Garrison]

Sure thing. Also, I'd forgo the TD-04, and just spring for a TD-05H or some other 16g sized turbo. Or the vf39 is a solid OEM choice as well. My point being these turbos would far more easily create a very linear surge of power, giving you a very usable torque band and higer RPM pull, where the TD-04 will choke out (create excessive heat, psi tapers down, etc). Anything above 4000RPM really and it's started to die off.
Therefore, don't even bother wasting your money on the TD-04. Go straight for the throat and get what you want the first time. It's what I wish I'd done when I turbo'ed my soob.

[Tinobag]

how much boost would I have to run to get around 300 WHP? with a TD-04 and TD-05?

[lord flashheart]

remember boost is kinda irrelevant. because of the volumetric efficiency of all engines are different. (volume vs. pressure)
7lbs on a EJ25 heads is about 10-11lbs on EJ22E heads
the 22 with 25 heads will lower your compression to 8.9:1-9:1 ish (depending on which gen EJ22). which is pretty much ideal for turboing.
it will run and drive just fine. but it would be kinda gutless with out a turbo (about 120-130HP). thats the engine i
have in my car, and on 7lbs of boost i make about 200HP ish. if you want to hit 300 you will probably
need about 12-14lbs of boost, with a proper tune and supporting mods. a TD04 will do just fine.
BTW your current gearbox wont hold that much power. i think you should aim for 250HP.
ive only heard of 1 guy that put 275-300hp to that transmission.. he told me that he used a really soft clutch disk (so it would slip before it broke the gears) some pro-race quallity gear oil, and drove it really nice.. he went thru 3 transmissions a year. longest any of them lasted was about 8,000 miles.
so unless you are upgrading the trans i wouldn't go that high. besides. our cars are lighter than WRXs and STis so we need less power to achieve the same acceleration.

[Tinobag]

You think my transmission could hold 250 WHP? Would a JDM 5 speed hold 300? I don't know a lot about transmissions..

[Garrison]

All subie 5-speeds are relatively weak, especially when compared to the sti 6-speed. I would think 250whp is probably as high as you'd want to go.

[nikolaus.conrad]

What about for an auto? Can they handle more power?

[Garrison]

.... Usually, yes. Due to their thicker, more heavier-duty parts (e.g. manuals will usually weigh 100's of pounds (lb) less than their identical, except automatic counterparts). But please don't take that as an endorsement of the automatic's purported strength. I would think that while it probably would handle twice the factory hp, it's life would be cut severely shorter for the experience. Especially if you were to ever drive it hard.

I'm not sure if this applies to the 2003-5 H6 though. I would like to believe that subaru would do things right and re-engineer a new transmission for the increased torque and horsepower output of the H6 engine, but I don't actually know for certain.

[Tinobag]

Well I understand what your saying Garrison, but I think I'm just gonna stick with a TD-04 for now. I found a few that are very cheap and I will stay low on the boost at first to avoid having to get an F/I Controller. Maybe 7psi. Also, if you build your up/downpipe yourself will you still need a turbo model crossmember? Will a WRX crossmember bolt up?

[Garrison]

Nope, that's how I avoided swapping crossmembers; but you need a good welder to go this route.

[nikolaus.conrad]

^That's what I plan on doing.

What do you use to hold the turbo in place?

[Tinobag]

The up-pipe?

[nikolaus.conrad]

I don't think the turbo is suppose to be held in place by the up-pipe and intake, which is why I asked lol. Are there some sort of brackets to rig up to hold the turbo?

[Garrison]

I had the thought to use something custom on my build, but for something like a td-04 the work is done for you, because there is bracket on the wrx that secures the turbo. That being said, between the up and down pipe as well as the intercooler, the turbo doesn't really move around.

I did not use a brace and had no movement in my gargantuan t4.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Gotcha, I'm still going with a vf11 to boost a 2.2 so I think I'll be good.

[lord flashheart]

250whp is roughly 330chp. So...... no the trans won't hold that.
You people need to realize that 200-220whp is quite a bit. Here in Utah a bone stock STi usually only gets about 210 to the ground.

I am editing this. I have since pushed 3 of our cars stock transmissions up in the 300+WHP with no problem. But i stand by my statement of 220whp being alot.

[nikolaus.conrad]

That's too much power for me at the moment, I plan to run around 3lbs, I'm looking for more efficiency than power. I'm assuming a WRX transmission be a wise investment for running more power?

[StatGSR]

^ there would be little to no improvement in reliability or strength by swapping to a WRX transmission...

[grayguy]

The 6mt is really the only upgrade, all the 5mts are about the same level of worthlessness haha.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Well that's garbage, I'm glad I asked lol. I imagine as long as you don't abuse your car everyday it'll last for a while.

Edit: It'll be difficult to not drive hard with a turbo :smt013 :smt010 :smt030

[Tinobag]

250whp is roughly 330chp. So...... no the trans won't hold that.
You people need to realize that 200-220whp is quite a bit. Here in Utah a bone stock STi usually only gets about 210 to the ground. Shoot for 250CHP.

I know. I'm just putting a number out there. Right now I'm just aiming for boost! :smt016

::Edit:: Can anyone point me toward a website that has good engine build parts. I'm talking cams, cranks, pistons, rods, bolts, etc.

[lord flashheart]

i work for a machine shop and we specialize in subarus, particularly hi-horsepower builds.
i have all of the said items. PM me a list of anything (engine wise) that you want or need.

[Tinobag]

Okay. I just wanted to browse. I'm hoping I don't have to buy anything. Prices for new rings, bearings, and gaskets would be nice though.

[lord flashheart]

Fair enough. I'll pm you what I can do for you. If you have questions on turboing cars let me know, as I do this kinda thing for a profession.

[lord flashheart]

ALSO on the subject of transmissons, I disagree with the said info.
The legacy 22 trans has a hard time holding 275chp reliably. Where I have seen the EJ20 wrx trans hold 350whp like a champ. The 05+ legacy gt, 06+ wrx and forester turbo trans will hold 400-450+ whp if you are nice. Even a 06 outback non-turbo will hold down the power better than the stock trans.

What I'm trying to say is that I believe the opposit of what you were saying... Almost any 5mt will be a upgrade. Even the 91 legacy turbo trans would be a solid improvement.

[Tinobag]

^ Thats what I was thinking. I've seen plenty of people hold down 300 whp on WRX trans all day with no issues. The 6 speeds however, are a whole different animal. Check this out...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tHD-oT8IbY&feature=g-like&context=G2668b6aALTzCDzwBdAA

[grayguy]

You can make a 5spd survive under power, it's just a matter of knowing how to drive. The problem is that it's just too easy to get carried away once and that's all it takes sometimes.

The main reason I sold off a lot of my big HP parts was I couldn't justify the $3-4k worth or 6mt I would have had to buy to be confident in my drivetrain.

[lord flashheart]

by the way on this subject,
we all know that, subaru introduced the WRX in 2001 for the 2002 model year.. well the first year they had a substantial amount of warranties on the transmissions.
the 2003 model year they fixed the problem, by adding a 'regulator' in the hydraulic clutch system that only allowed the clutch to be engaged so quickly.
they didnt change anything in the transmission at all. the problem was how people were driving the cars. they would rev to 3000 RPMs and dump the clutch. i think people were just used to the FWD and RWD cars, where you could get away with that.

[nikolaus.conrad]

i think people were just used to the FWD and RWD cars, where you could get away with that.
Would that be because the AWD is more traction on the road and giving more stress on the transmission?

[StatGSR]

^ yup

[nikolaus.conrad]

Sweet :grin:

[nikolaus.conrad]

A bit off-topic but could I use a VF11 turbo on an EJ25? Or would that be too small? I'm still looking to make a low budget build I can learn from. 2.2 with 2.5 heads would be a project for later this year :smt025

[nikolaus.conrad]

I plan to only run 3lbs. I'm looking for more MPGs than power. I also plan to swap cylinder heads from the hydraulic lifters to the regular heads, that should lower my compression correct? The heads are from a 1998 GT with a bad bottom end.

[lord flashheart]

A bit off-topic but could I use a VF11 turbo on an EJ25? Or would that be too small? I'm still looking to make a low budget build I can learn from. 2.2 with 2.5 heads would be a project for later this year :smt025
yes you can. infact, this is my car, EJ25D, VF10, and 5 lbs of boost.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ozg4rNm0Sgw
i made 162WHP
and just under 200Ftlbs of torque.
to put that in perspective,
a bone stock WRX went on the
dyno before mine,
it made 165WHP
and like 160ish WTQ
so the horspower numbers were
very close but i had like almost 40ftlbs of torque more.
good alternative to a WRX swap i think.

[nikolaus.conrad]

That's awesome! I bet the Power/Weight is a bit better too.

Which set of cylinder heads do you recommend? I have both the 1996 Hydraulic heads and the regular 97 to 99 2.5 heads.

[lord flashheart]

Mechanical

[nikolaus.conrad]

Would an 04 WRX fuel pump work for this build? I have an opportunity to pick one up for cheap.

[Garrison]

Would an 04 WRX fuel pump work for this build? I have an opportunity to pick one up for cheap.
A new walbro 255 is only $50 :grin:

[nikolaus.conrad]

Would an 04 WRX fuel pump work for this build? I have an opportunity to pick one up for cheap.
A new walbro 255 is only $50 :grin:
WHERE? :shock:

[Garrison]

Voila my friend:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/255LPH-High-Pre ... 19&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/255LPH-High-Pressure-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-Install-Kit-12-/281038428697?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item416f321a19&vxp=mtr)

And many more like it. This is where I bought mine, for my turbo build. (Plus mine was on the way out too, haha)

[nikolaus.conrad]

Oh snap! Gotta get one soon :wink:

[EJ22D]

I really appreciate lord flashheart for his video. It showed me that my ideas for the next engine to go in my car are awesome. A boosted DOHC 2.2 is indeed very rich in TQ. It just kind of sucks that the 25D cams don't really start doing their thing until about 2500-3000rpms but they DO go all the way to the redline.

[slavik.86]

Voila my friend:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/255LPH-High-Pre ... 19&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/255LPH-High-Pressure-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-Install-Kit-12-/281038428697?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item416f321a19&vxp=mtr)

And many more like it. This is where I bought mine, for my turbo build. (Plus mine was on the way out too, haha)

Thats not a walbro. Walbro are proven pumps and wont leave you stranded. Id rather spend an extra $30 and forget about it rather then end up being stuck somewhere.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

[lord flashheart]

if your worried about the strength of the transmission.. this is a video of my 300+ wtq car launching.. 5 speed from a 96 impreza EJ22.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLTfCEwtDmo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--4IcoiQ5gY

[nikolaus.conrad]

Lol it's so funny reading this a few years later, I have the hybrid built and sitting in my garage, what should the spark plug gap be for this engine?

[lord flashheart]

.035-.045 if my memory serves me. use the tighter end of the factory spec, but run colder plugs. i think i used heat range 7 NGK on my car.

[lord flashheart]

yes you can. infact, this is my car, EJ25D, VF10, and 5 lbs of boost.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ozg4rNm0Sgw
i made 162WHP
and just under 200Ftlbs of torque.
to put that in perspective,
a bone stock WRX went on the
dyno before mine,
it made 165WHP
and like 160ish WTQ
so the horspower numbers were
very close but i had like almost 40ftlbs of torque more.
good alternative to a WRX swap i think.
Lol its fun to look back on this. This was probably my favorite setup ive ever run in my car. Even more than my STi setup. Cheap, simple, reliable, and fun.

[nikolaus.conrad]

^Lol I was just looking at this thread yesterday, so funny to see old posts.

[lord flashheart]

Indeed what have you been up to

[SilverLegacy]

most interesting thread on this site