Garrison's 98 BK 2.5 turbo build

[Garrison]

Proof is in the pudding:

30-70mph pull, steep hill climb
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/th_VIDEO0004-2.jpg (http://s1003.photobucket.com/albums/af158/Garrisonbowers/?action=view&current=VIDEO0004.mp4)

I thought it appropriate to start up the build thread, what with the almighty elevated manifold p.s.i. (boost) being so close.

Today I spent a couple of hours with a true gem of a welder. Everyone locally, in -any- automotive performance circle regards his work as simply, "the best". He helped me make a custom up-pipe in order to accommodate the setup I am aiming for:

T70 turbo, rebuilt, 200 miles on it *pushing 7psi at EWG*
Full 3" catless custom down-pipe to 3" wrx catback
UEL Headers (ceramic coated, wrapped)- I refuse to give up the subie sound!
Forester XT intercooler
custom 2.25" up-pipe
1-step colder plugs
Walbro 255 fuel pump
4:1 Vortech FMU
3" turbo inlet pipe, SPT filter (stock MAF)

According to the previous owner of the turbo, full boost comes at 4200; he was using largely reduced intake piping, FMIC, and a 2.2L.

I made the appropriate changes in order to ensure that the above was corrected in regards to volumetric efficiency. In other words, feed the turbo more cool air, higher velocity exhaust gas, and cool the air with a TMIC; I would hazard a guess that that will reduce the boost threshold by a few hundred RPM. *I will report back on this result later.

Engine is a 98 DOHC 2.5L Outback. 140K
Owned for one year prior to now, rebuilt front of engine, running 15-w40 Shell Rotella full synthetic. That should help keep the oil temps a bit cooler (oil cooled turbo). Oil feed is handled by a 1/8th NPT "T" fitting into the oil sending unit's hole. Oil drain is a 90 degree fitting in the valve cover of the engine, ala Anothernord. Except mine is largely secured by JB Weld (the reasoning behind this was simple, I found the valve cover material too thin to tap to my satisfaction. Aluminum is a very soft metal).

But, I know none of you are interested in any of that tech-garbage! You just came for the turboz pr0n. Here you are:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0007-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0108-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0031-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/18254d124647209304foresterxtintercoolerc-1.jpg

(I crushed the corner of the top of the bpv in order to clear the throttle cables and keep my cruise control)

Current up-pipe:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0004-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0003-2.jpg

[Garrison]

My turbo choice is as follows: I am going to use a turbo that I personally would consider to be a bit too big for this sized vehicle/psi ceiling (7 psi EWG) in order that I have a very even, strong powerband with a smacking upper-middle/high rpm rush that also doesn't run the turbo too hot (oil-cooled turbine) even when run to the redline. This is good, because I want to be able to cruise at highway speeds and both stay out of boost (for fuel efficiency reasons), but have it not so far off. This turbo should suit that desire quite well. Plus this T70 is well capable of 20-25psi, no problem... seriously, the thing is a monster. So I believe between the aforementioned factors I can help keep engine bay heat down, while keeping fun levels up.

If you guys have any questions or picture requests hit me up. I'm a snap-happy bastard anyway :smt023

[Garrison]

Last update before the actual build commences. *Sept 19, 8:30pm*

Today was a tremendously productive day, as I went back for my second (and final) appointment with my welder (Btw, his name is Tom Mason and his shop number is (828) 252-6346 if you'd like to use him. He's brilliant).
We made the new down-pipe today, welded on the new flange (in accordance with the advice from Corky Bell in "Maximum Boost") and test fit the actual setup...

It was sweet :grin: And my dumb-ass actually remembered to take photos this time!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0107-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0106-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0108-2.jpg

And this is how the intake will be routed (well, angle-wise anyway):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0109-1.jpg

Underneath the car:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0110-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0111-1.jpg

Final product, wrapped and ready to go in. Note the *new* location of the rear o2 sensor, w/ extension (to combat P0420 CEL- Inefficient Catalytic Convertor)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0112-1.jpg

And a nice little bung-plug for the future wideband hole.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0113-1.jpg

Onto the next step, I needed to modify the intake tube to accommodate the intake ports.
Cut, wire-wheeled, and drilled the pipe; JB Welded the fittings into the pipe after tapping and screwing them in:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0116-1.jpg

JDM WRX intake (for sale if anyone wants it) for comparison:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0115-1.jpg


And finally, installed the new oil drain line fitting (thanks again, 'Nord). Btw, for those thinking of going this route for their kit, be prepared to fight your ass off to get that fitting torqued down.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0117-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0118-2.jpg

[mycargoesvroom]

:smt007 :smt007 :smt007 :smt007 :smt007

Bring on the PR0N!!!!!

[anothernord]

Excellent work! I haven't seen any custom EWG setups like this in a while. Some pictures of where the turbo will sit would be sweet as well.

You'll easily have the potential to blow your engine to high hell with this turbo, so make sure you are cautious with hooking up the wastegate.

Also, for your oil drain tube, do NOT use heater hose. It degrades quickly and starts seeping oil everywhere. A braided SS line would be perfect.

[Garrison]

Oooh, thanks for the heads up on the oil line. Yes, the turbo is setup in a somewhat strange manner... It's path is very similar to the traditional tract of the intake of a naturally aspirated engine. This was done to avoid obnoxious inlet piping issues. If you were to raise 2", rotate along the Y axis by 10 degrees counter-clockwise, and the rotate along the Z axis 15 degrees clockwise, the stock location of the wrx turbo, you would have a good idea of it. Dunno why the hell I didn't think to take photos while I had the thing in the car; but cest la vie.


I know it's difficult to understand from my description, but this is close to what it will look like. The turbo is placed further back than I could depict though.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/Untitledpng-2.jpg









Edit: Oh yeah, and one more reason to go with a upper-rpm turbo? 4k rpm rush that -already- accompanies the 2.5 head. Man I love me some tasty adequate combustion chamber valve coverage.

[Huffer]

This is going to be good!

[anothernord]

I get what you're saying, sounds like it will look monster once in the car. It's true that past 4k, the engine really sings.


Any plans for EM? The FPR is okay, but to get the most out of the setup, you'll want a way to control fuel, and a wideband.

[Garrison]

I have been pricing AEM f/ic's or Apexi controllers. I want a way to retard timing though, and I think aem is the least expensive in that reagard. Argh, running wires :smt011

Size comparison 1-liter Nalgene bottle:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0005-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0006-2.jpg


And finally, the coupe' de gras:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0007-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0008-1.jpg


So as you can see, it is a very difficult thing to explain how the turbo is situated, but be assured that it was done with intake piping ease in mind.

How it was mounted before.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/20110719112117-2.jpg

It will retain a similar location, but the angles have all changed. This was to both reduce the rake angle at which the turbo sits in order to help oil drain more efficiently, as well line up the turbo exit as close to the intercooler y-pipe as possible. In addition, intake piping was of primary consideration as well. This was done (as mentioned above), by rotating on multiple axises until a (quite lovely, imo) compromise was reached; the up-pipe was then tack-welded, removed, and solidly welded. It really is a pretty piece of metal. :grin:

[Garrison]

Look what showed up today :grin:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0105-1.jpg

[anothernord]

Wow. That's even bigger than I thought.

Great choice on getting the EJ22t IACV. It makes life a lot easier for routing the intake.

[Garrison]

Wow. That's even bigger than I thought.

Great choice on getting the EJ22t IACV. It makes life a lot easier for routing the intake.

Well I owe credit for the idea to you friend. And yeah, the turbo itself probably weighs 25-30lbs. Definitely thinking about a bracket to the tranny to add support.

[Garrison]

Remaining checklist:

Install cold plugs
Install FMU


Profit!

Bump for update in post #3

[anothernord]

Holy cow! That looks very nice.

Nice work on the oil drain line; that's even better than my setup!

Do you have any support for the turbo to the engine itself? I always worried about that with my old setup off the stock manifold, there's a large moment exerted on the header flange joints, and I imagine they will fail if give a good enough bump over time.

A simple bracket off the up pipe to the head or bell-housing should be fine.

Lookin' good.

[Garrison]

Holy cow! That looks very nice.

Nice work on the oil drain line; that's even better than my setup!

Do you have any support for the turbo to the engine itself? I always worried about that with my old setup off the stock manifold, there's a large moment exerted on the header flange joints, and I imagine they will fail if give a good enough bump over time.

A simple bracket off the up pipe to the head or bell-housing should be fine.

Lookin' good.

I was definitely thinking that a piece of plate steel from Home Despot or Slowes would do the trick. From the bottom of the up-pipe/turbo flange to the bell-housing was my idea, since the bracket mounting point on the bell-housing is just begging to be used.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Crazy build dude, I hope she roars to life.

[bulldozer24]

When you get this done I may have to come see it in person. Anyways it looks great so far and good luck with the rest of the build

[Garrison]

Thank you for all the kind words guys (and gals if I misspoke);

If any of you are interested, here is the price breakdown for the build:
Turbo, EWG, Up-pipe/Down-pipe = $320
Forester XT intercooler = $35
EJ22T IACV = $20
SS oil lines = $25
Vortech FMU = $80
3" intake tubing = $20
Various couplers = $40 (I recommend siliconeintakes.com they have AMAZING prices and top notch customer service)
Various fittings, hoses = $30
1 step colder plugs = $20
Ebay catch-can = $20
3" WRX catback = $210
Turbonetics MBC = $30


Total = $870, plus the little odds and ends I already had. SPT filter for instance, already had it, but it cost $60 or so.
Truthfully these engines are ridiculously inexpensive to find parts for, search ebay as well as other sites and I promise you the deals ARE out there. Just be patient and look. It took me about 3 months to accumulate all the parts; all the while I was reading and re-reading "Maximum Boost" which I suggest you all pick-up. Fabrication and ingenuity are your best friends, and the age old advice of "If something is worth doing, it's worth doing correctly, the first time" cannot be under-emphasized.

OEM injectors max out at 8psi, so don't get greedy with your boost until you can either a) tune for the added boost, or b) have access to e85. You -WILL- detonate, and you will blow your poor engine apart.

[nikolaus.conrad]

OEM injectors max out at 8psi, so don't get greedy with your boost until you can either a) tune for the added boost, or b) have access to e85. You -WILL- detonate, and you will blow your poor engine apart.

This is why I am getting a VF11 turbo, since it can't really go beyond 10 psi I won't have to worry much about the injectors for now. It won't push too much boost but just enough to get a feel for the build and driving with it. Also since it's inexpensive, I feel a good beginner's turbo I can learn on. I'm confident in my work, but if I screw something up on the turbo unit, it won't be so much of a loss.


"If something is worth doing, it's worth doing correctly, the first time" cannot be under-emphasized.

I agree 100%

[Garrison]

Okay, I lied about that last update thing.

Today I:

"T'ed" the oil galley plug, and replaced my IACV with an ej22t IACV and looped the coolant circuit so as to bypass the IACV.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0119-1.jpg
http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af158/Garrisonbowers/IMAG0121.jpg
http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af158/Garrisonbowers/IMAG0122.jpg


I also made the bracket that Jared mentioned above, today. Pics later on that. Made out of angle-bar aluminum with a supporting brace bolted in the middle. Should hold plenty of weight.

[Garrison]

Edited out

[Garrison]

Today I made a heat shield for my turbo (and unrelated to the build, finally replaced my leaking power-steering lines, yay!).

I used the remaining aluminum from my splitter that I made. I actually made two but I accidentally cut the first one too short, length wise. Tested length, cut, drilled and test fitted. Decided it would work well with only 2 bolts, and proceeded to sand shape, and finalize mounting. After that I taped it off, wrote a warning, and traced it with a razor. Taking my time I peeled the tape off and hit it with hi temp matte black and let it dry for an hour then took the remaining tape off. Finally, I laid a heat gun on "high" to the paint. Interesting note,.the aluminum on the opposite side, while certainly not cool, was not radiatingly hot.

[Garrison]

Lessons learned:

Open downpipes are obnoxious
Always use high pressure fuel line for hoses.

It is installed, and it runs.... But the fuel pressure regulator hose exploded spewing fuel everywhere.

Otherwise a fairly alright build, more updates tomorrow night.

[anothernord]

Uh-oh.

What line exploded? You mean the vacuum line going to the backside? That shouldn't have fuel coming out of it...

[Garrison]

Noo, it was the darn line from the outlet of the oem fuel regulator to the "in" of the vortech fmu. I just didn't think about it, but I needed to have used high pressure fuel line. Poooosibly the most gut wrenching feeling I've ever experienced with car work, watching the car pump out volumes of fluid after start up.. The line blew off at the end of the oem regulator, I lost probably 2 gallons of fuel. worm gear installed; The car does run but the light throttle I applied during the test drive thereafter raised the fuel pressure, and wham, the weak line splits.

However boost is fun, ha. Every cloud has a silver lining.

[anothernord]

Yeah, I wouldn't drive it at all, fuel spraying everywhere = death by fireball. Don't be lazy. :smt002

[Garrison]

Hahaha, smartass ;)

Nah, she's parked until tonight, I'm coming back with new vacuum line, and of course new HP fuel line and then we'll see how she runs. What I'm really amazed by was the fact that it ran at all, considering the complete lack of fuel pressure. But yeah it runs and drives perfectly well; minus the spewing fuel..

[nikolaus.conrad]

Glad to hear you didn't explode. lol.

What car is this engine going in?

[Garrison]

Hmmm? Stock engine, in my 98 legacy outback wagon.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Nice!

[Garrison]

Okay, far happier update today. I bought 180psi fuel line (no f*cking around this time) and new vacuum line, and re-ran every line relocating the fmu to a far more pleasant place in the engine bay; where the stock airbox is.

Restart, and... No leaks! Well, no big leaks. There is a minor leak from the oil drain plate, which causes it to smoke, lol, but definitely nothing super serious.

Teaser:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0134-1.jpg

And now to the important stuff, the boost comes fast and hard at 4, mixing with heads volume, holy hell does this thing fly.
Not much noticeable throttle lag, nice. The best way I can explain it is that it feels very much like a turbo diesel truck, just a steady strong surge of power that cumulates into an upper rpm rush that I thoroughly enjoy.

I had a few misfire codes on start up, but once cleared they didn't return. Also, the car can't decide on an idle point, going from 650-1000 consistently.

All I have to say is: worth it :grin:

[anothernord]

What's your plug gap? Should be. 030-.035 or so with a stock coil.

[Garrison]

1 step colder ngk plugs, sooo I couldn't tell you.


Edit: sigh, another tool to buy and I'll pull the plugs again :smt012

[Garrison]

Got the exhaust fitted and I couldn't be happier. The thing is so much quieter than it was with an open dp. Oil leak located and I think I'm going to have to rtv the oil drain plate because even retorquing it didn't stop the leak. Misfire codes reoccured, then without being reset, changed to cylinder 1 only.

Car runs and drives superbly. It's a pleasant thing, extra torque. I'm waiting for the engine to cool down enough to start pulling the plugs and checking gaps.

Pics:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0138-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0141-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0140-1.jpg

Innovative method of finding room for the bpv (had to keep my cruise):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0142-1.jpg

[Garrison]

All four sparks were gapped at .045, I re-gapped them to .035 and it seems to have solved the problem significantly. The oil drain plate however is ridiculously leaky. I retightened it yet again and still no luck so I bought hi-temp rtv and I'm just going to do it that way. I don't know why the gasket the company sends has to be garbage, but it sure was. I'm definitely going to need more oil before I finish this car.

More real-world conclusions, turbo is just a tiny bit large for what I was wanting, true power isn't felt until 4k rpm in regular driving (which I guess is kind of nice...) and around 3k rpm with your foot a bit more in it. Still haven't done WOT.



Edit:
Correction, although the spark plugs have all been regapped the engine is still missing slightly at idle. What is the solution to that? Do I gap them down further?

[nikolaus.conrad]

:smt007 :smt007 :smt007 :smt007 :smt007

Keep up the good work!! You'll figure it out!

Edit: What injectors are you using? How much boost are you pushing? and do you have some sort of external engine management like a piggyback?

[Garrison]

I'm using stock injectors with 7 psi being the external wastegate spring pressure. No engine management required per se, but it definitely runs a little rich which could be tuned out with the help of a piggyback.

For some unknown reason I manned up and decided to do the rtv on the oil drain plate today after the spark plugs. I managed it, finally, after several very strenuous hours. We'll see how it runs after it dries for the recommended time.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Gotcha, good stuff to hear :smt023

[Garrison]

Well according to the guy who inspired this build missing a bit at idle is a trade off with colder plugs.


Missing a little at idle is a trade-off. Are you on E85 or gas? Make sure your plugwires, coil, and o2 sensors are in good order. I've heard of gaps to .031-.028 on cars with 28-30psi but not really necessary on yours. May be worth a shot?

[Garrison]

Edited out

[nikolaus.conrad]

Maybe the air intake? I've never seen a red fitting to my Outback though :smt017

[Garrison]

regapped the plugs to .030 each and I'll report back on changes when I drive it tonight.

Yeah I don't really know where it could go to, I have all the T's connected, as well as the vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator...

[chuckthefuk]

I may of missed this but what plugs are you using?

Turbo cars need the worst NGK plugs money can buy :-D

[anothernord]

I know one of those ports tees in with the line that goes to the charcoal canister, but I'll check my engine later. There should be a missing line for you somewhere.

[Garrison]

I may of missed this but what plugs are you using?

Turbo cars need the worst NGK plugs money can buy :-D
Ngk 1 step colder plugs, gapped now at .030" and I'm assuming reducing the gap should help it idle. I did the rtv no favors today repositioning the oil line. If it doesn't hold I'm going have to pull the turbo and seal it on a workbench... Let's hope it doesn't come to that.

[anothernord]

Oh shoot, I forgot to mention; don't use RTV on the turbo's outlet; get a real gasket. I just got some of the universal material at the auto parts store, and cut it to fit. I just asked the guy for something rated for oil and high temperatures, and he gave me a roll for a couple dollars. It never leaked at all.

[Garrison]

Yeah I got that figured out, it didn't hold the pressure. Damn this oil thing is a headache. BTW, what is the danger of too much oil in the passenger valve cover?

Gapping the plugs to .030" solved the miss completely. Idle is smooth, if loopy.

[Garrison]

Needing an answer for the vacuum line if anyone is willing to take a look for me. Red tube, vacuum line, under passenger side rear intake plenum.

[chuckthefuk]

Just a random guess ...

Vacuum Solenoid VSV Switch Valve.

[anothernord]

No, it's definitely the purge solenoid.

I'd look for you right now, Garrison, but I'm afraid my wagon is not with me right now.

[Garrison]

I think that red one went to the throttle body, car idles better now. however, now I'm looking for the other end of this: http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af158/Garrisonbowers/IMAG0147.jpg

I redid the oil line so as to maximize flow out of the turbo as well to help relieve pressure at the seal.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0146-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0145-1.jpg

[nikolaus.conrad]

That little thing I think plugs into a small cylinder part on the passenger shock tower. I have no idea what it does.

Edit: the part is a little bigger than a walnut.

[Garrison]

Alright, I spent today making the gasket and getting stainless steel screws. I rtv'd the top and bottom of the gasket as well as both mating surfaces so as to make a good bond. I'm giving it time to set and dry and then I take it back out.

[Garrison]

Pulling p0106. and misfire 3 code.

I can't tell if the oil leak has stopped as there is so much soaked into the downpipe wrappings that it burns and smokes considerably when I drive it, but that being said, the car drives really well (ignore the vacuum CEL because all that really does is screw with the idle). The actual driving of the vehicle is fun. Super fun actually. I'd say knocking on sti doors if I were to hazard a guess.

[Garrison]

Oil leak has not stopped, will be remaking another gasket. Should I double layer them?

[nikolaus.conrad]

What is the gasket made of?

[Garrison]

Double layered gaskets have failed as well..


@*(@#%(#ETE?RG. This is really beginning to piss me the f-ck off. I cleared the p0106 code by rearranging my vacuums so that solved and gone, now this oil leak is the only thing standing between me and a perfect running car.

PLEASE HELP.


Nick: gasket material made for oil/gas/etc

[nikolaus.conrad]

Do you think your bolts are getting worn out? The threads might be a bit stretched and new ones may fix your problem if you have to continuously tighten your current ones.

Also, what type of oil pump are you using?

[chuckthefuk]

I am either blind or you didn't specify exactly whats leaking.

You mentioned Oil drain plate? What is that exactly?

And even so can you not locate an OE or OEM gasket? I am all for making gaskets to save some coin but you seem super stressed over this..

Also did you use Teflon tape on the threads?
-Chuck

[nikolaus.conrad]

I thought I read in an earlier post is the oil pan, I may be mistaken.

[Garrison]

Do you think your bolts are getting worn out? The threads might be a bit stretched and new ones may fix your problem if you have to continuously tighten your current ones. Also, what type of oil pump are you using?

Stock oil pump, and no, I just bought SS screws and they are in pristine condition.



I am either blind or you didn't specify exactly whats leaking.
You mentioned Oil drain plate? What is that exactly?
And even so can you not locate an OE or OEM gasket? I am all for making gaskets to save some coin but you seem super stressed over this..
Also did you use Teflon tape on the threads?
-Chuck

I'm talking about the plate that mounts to the bottom of the turbo, via two screws, and is supposed to hold the oil pressure from the oil drain of the turbo. For some reason, I've gone in there 4 times and none of them have worked. Let me assure you, it's less than enjoyable to continue to repeat this insipid waltz; hence my frustration.

I did not use teflon tape on the threads. Am I supposed to?

[chuckthefuk]

Nope just checking... teflon for pipe thread. none for -AN

By any chance do you have a decent picture of the fitting and gasket you used>?

[Garrison]

I'll pull it all again and get some pictures for you. Right now I'm done touching this thing until I get a good plan of attack for this ridiculous leak.

[Garrison]

I took a snap-shot walkthrough so you could see what I'm doing (wrong?) here.
*EDITED OUT*

The turbo outlet is square, that's why the gasket is cut as such. All of the above that you have just reviewed has been installed no more than 5 minutes ago. Guess what? Leak.

[mycargoesvroom]

Ok so this is just a shot in the dark, but I'm guessing that gasket material is porous and allowing oil to seep through.

[Garrison]

Ok so this is just a shot in the dark, but I'm guessing that gasket material is porous and allowing oil to seep through.
It's supposed to be rated for oil/gasoline :/

I've now got two guys telling me to RTV the hell out of it and be done with it.
I'm going to try that tomorrow morning, because nothing else has worked.

[grayguy]

Use "the right stuff" brand RTV, thats what I used in the oil drain one one if my turbos and it never leaked.

[chuckthefuk]

How do you trace a circle and then cut out a square :smt017

Seriously ..

0) Go to home depot and get a small piece of pipe for the oil drain and the bolt holes.
1) Cut the pipe down to 3-5" and get your hammer
2) Strike the pipe into the gasket paper with your hammer once or twice to create a perfect hole.
3) Then exacto knife the gasket paper around the fitting for a clean finish.

You're probably leaking because the oil is seeping in between the fitting and the turbo because of the gaps caused by the square corners in the gasket you made..

Also I agree with the paper conclusion... that does not look oil/gas rated.

-Chuck

[Garrison]

Alright, thank you kindly. I did the gasket in a square because that's how the aftermarket ones are made. Cutting a circle isn't a problem, I can do that, but because it didn't work the first time and using the arc tangents of a circle to make a square is a lot less time consuming. The gasket paper says rated for. But if you think I need thicker gasket material I can purchase more.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Are you still leaking oil or has it been solved?

[Garrison]

Excellent question, I'm waiting for the full 24 hours before I try and start it back up again. I RTV'ed the seal yesterday and followed the rtv instructions to the letter, including the finger-tight, wait an hour, then 1/2 turn thing. I'm genuinely curious and if it doesn't work out then I'll probably just buy the highest quality gasket material I can and run that.

[dodik]

autozone sells sheets of gasket material for a few bucks that is oil/gas rated its gray in color and my bike has been leak free for a while now. i think its less than 5 bucks a sheet.

[chuckthefuk]

Did anyone consider that this isn't a normal oil line. It exceeds temps that a standard engine can produce..

The gasket is in direct contact with turbo.. Surely this could cause a standard oil/gas gasket to fail under load.

-Chuck

[Garrison]

GDMFSOB


No, the leak has not stopped. It has a slow, dripping leak on the driver's side part of the flange. I'm going to get thick gasket material and change over to a beefier flange.

[chuckthefuk]

Dumb question but is the fitting "true" or "straight" is it warped?

-Chuck

[Garrison]

I'm actually not sure, I'll check when I pull it again.
I went to NAPA and got the heavy-duty oil gasket material and I'm doing it again right now.

[Garrison]

Okay, small update and I'll update again tomorrow.

First off, good call Chuck, the mating surface of the beefier flange I had been using was -not- flat, it had about a 1/16" of space when I laid a flat-edge on it. Which honestly kind of pisses me off, because it's new. "But alright, whatever" I thought angrily, "I'll check the other, less beefy flange". I'm in luck, it's less that a 1/32" of space, and with the thicker gasket I picked up today, it should seal nicely.

Speaking of the gasket, I had a long talk with a fellow at NAPA who builds and plays with turbo cars, and I asked him everything under the sun about sealing this leak. He recommended this gasket, and even though it says it's only rated for 300 degrees, he believes that it will be alright because the oil in the car shouldn't reach any higher than that (and the oil, let's remember will cool the flange down slightly).
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0169-1.jpg



First impressions, it is a lot thicker and tougher material than what I was using. I made a template and cut away the excess with a razor and then laid it on the skinnier flange. A perfect fit. Awesome. So while I am fighting the oil line, my JB weld'ed oil drain fitting on the passenger valve-cover pops off. Apparently I had failed to clean it properly and all the in-and-out movement I've been doing to the oil line caused it to pop. Oh well, I cleaned the living hell out of the area, hit it with rubbing alcohol and set to work JB'ing it again.

So, in short, I'll know conclusively by tomorrow whether the new gasket material works or not.


Oh, a side note, when I pulled out the flange today, there was little sign of the RTV.... weird :smt017
But good riddance to bad gaskets I say.

[nikolaus.conrad]

I hope this finally works for you!

[anothernord]

Strange, I used the gasket material and it worked fine. I think the problem may be rooted elsewhere. What is the size of the restrictor on the turbo's oil feed banjo bolt? If it's too large, it will flood the turbo with out oil and it will make a mess everywhere. This was my experience with an aftermarket banjo bolt.

[Garrison]

The inlet hole is tiny, truly. It's maybe the size of a tip of pencil lead when fully sharpened. I have a larger fitting I could install, but I am beginning to think you're right. The turbo is still leaking, but it isn't from the oil drain fitting, it seems to be from somewhere else. Guess I need to pull it to find out. Fudgenuckler

[Garrison]

Whelp, I think I just found my problem. I ripped out everything and found that my oil feed fitting has been stripped. SO.
I'm headed to the hardware store to get some bolts and hopefully I will get it right the first time and my new oil plate will not leak (new gasket for that as well). We shall see...

[Garrison]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/partycat-1.jpg


Let me hear ya singin' SHOUT!, throw your hands up and SHOUT!, kick your legs out and SHOUT!


Well, I'll be damned but it was the top oil feed. The fitting was stripped and not sealing properly which then leaked down and around the turbo onto the axle-boot. After much labor, it has been rectified with a brand new oil plate, gasket, tons of teflon tape and a few new M8x1.25 bolts with new lock-nut washers. I ran it, rev'd it, etc. No leaks! Ahhh, that is such a relief I can't even express the joy I felt afterwards, cautiously watching where the drip had been plaguing me. Bone dry. And unlike with a prostitute, it felt incredible.

[anothernord]

Yay! Oil leaks are awful, glad you finally got it sorted out. Now its time for driving!

[nikolaus.conrad]

Awesome!!!!!!!

[Garrison]

Okay, we're back. I've driven the car for a decent time now and the same issues persist. The car doesn't like to idle while at speed, clutch depressed. It won't always die; but pulling into a gas station for instance, it did.

Oil still burning off, but no smoke out of the tail-pipe so that's always pleasant news.

Does anyone have any advice regarding the idle problem?

[chuckthefuk]

IACV dirty / failing
vacuum lines installed wrong.
MAF dirty / failing

[Garrison]

I'm guessing the vacuum, to be honest. There is an open port I can't locate the other end of.

Possibly the IACV, but I cleaned the shit out of it before I installed it.
MAF has been fine before now.

So yeah, you have any pics of the correct vacuum setup?

[chuckthefuk]

Do you not have the FSM for the 25D? its all in it.. everytime I answer someones question its usually me going through random PDF's to find the answer...

:-p

[Garrison]

Gotcha. I do have it, but you're right it's a major pain in the ass to find stuff in that download.

[Garrison]

I've scoured the emissions and vacuum section and there is only one picture that provides any help at all.

Oh well, I'll need to look elsewhere.

[Garrison]

I went out and played with the vacuum lines for a minute and I fixed the problem. The red-box underneath the manifold goes to both the fuel pressure regulator, as well as the throttle body. I've still got a missing end but plugging it lowered the idle and AFAIK it doesn't do anything. It's the T-link between the nipple on the manifold and the filtered emissions line that comes from the "walnut sized thing" on the passenger shock tower.

I took the car out and drove it, not babying it but not making it too easy on the gas pedal. It was awesome, but my "fears" are confirmed; the boost indeed does not manifest itself until 3500RPM making it a nice addition to the natural power-band of the engine, but -almost- overkill on a street car. It's a slap in the face kind of acceleration for sure, but still fun to play with. As far as I can tell, the only thing smoking is the wrapping on the down-pipe and EWG piping.
And oh the wonderful noises this thing makes upon hard acceleration.

[nikolaus.conrad]

That'll burn off eventually :smt023 Awesome progress!

[chuckthefuk]

how large is your IC piping?

[Garrison]

how large is your IC piping?
Stock tmic plastic tubing. My bet would be 2.5".

Why do you ask?

[chuckthefuk]

IC piping can change the spooling properties of your turbo.. but I was wondering why used a T70 (T3/T4 hybrid) turbo instead of a simple VF series.. The VF series is a great low rpm turbo and such a cheap series to locate.

[Garrison]

Simple, I got a great deal on a turbo. I'm honestly thinking of breaking it down sometime in the future and sending it off for a new internals. Possibly I can change the characteristics of the turbo, but if nothing else I guess I could always buy new vf flanges and simply take a trip back to ol' Tom Mason... either way, this was my very first auto build and I learned more than I can possibly express through here.

The next time will be better.

[chuckthefuk]

You can always convert to a T3 .. smaller compressor... faster spool..

Either way good stuff. Lots of learning .. oh btw.. does the inside of your hood not have the vacuum route diagram?

-Chuck

[Garrison]

Not that I noticed, but then again I've spent so much time looking underneath it I'm oblivious to the hood itself (until I whack my head on it).

I think that's exactly what I'll do.

[Garrison]

Well, the beauty of this turbo is apparently the interchangeablity of the parts. I can take the turbo apart and remove the compressor wheel off the shaft, and replace it with another... nice.

Trim 50, or 60?

[chuckthefuk]

70 trim spools nicely on a modified EJ20 I would say for quick spool and longevity 50 trim... but do more research.... i am the one putting around in a EJ22E

[anothernord]

Glad you got the vacuum issues worked out. Drive ability problems are fantastically irritating.

[Garrison]

Eh. It appears I haven't. Just pulled a p0106, darn.
But yeah I was thinking along similar lines. 50 trim should make for a lovely modification.

[anothernord]

You probably goofed one of the lines to the Atmospheric pressure sensor on the shock tower (the one furthest to the left as you look at the engine)

[Garrison]

I've definitely mixed up the lines, I'm having to clutch it slightly to keep it alive when coming to a stop.
Oil leak definitely hasn't ceased, I've noticed it in small spots under the front right control arm.

Sooo, I'm going to bring it in to my mechanic and have him clean this up for me. He'll be doing rack and pinion, trans mount, and tie-rod boot as well.

Also, I had the silencer that came with the exhaust kit modified to a 2.5" opening at a local welder for $15. It's quieted things down even further to a very civil, less raspy, tone, and also helps the torque a little from 1-3k which is also super nice (Also cuts down on the backfires a bit). The restriction definitely doesn't hurt the power up top either, the clutch slips at WOT, in 3rd, 4th and 5th.

ALSO,

I had a long chat with the gents at our local performance garage and they suggested a T3, 50 trim. They said it would be way better for the powerband (2k rpm to 6.5k rpm), produce the same power (especially at only 7lbs), and if/when I build it, the turbo can be turned up nicely. It'll produce a bit more heat, but after driving all day yesterday in all conditions, I pulled over and most of the intercooler was cool to the touch; even the underside next to the turbo is only warm.
So the good news is the setup runs nicely and compliments the natural powerband of the engine with a strong surge of power. Use the foot lightly and it rewards with rapid acceleration. Stomp it, and the clutch slips. Go whp and torque :roll:

[Garrison]

Thanks for the advice on the under-hood vacuum diagram. I am indeed somehow missing a line to the canister (I assume evap), but everything else has been sorted. Feels good to have a literally model-specific, perfect map right in your face to go by, haha.

[anothernord]

Check your valve cover gaskets too. Since the oil drains right there, and some oil pools up right above the seal, it could be too much for the seal if it is older.


You should buy my clutch, I will give you a deal on it! haha.

[Garrison]

Check your valve cover gaskets too. Since the oil drains right there, and some oil pools up right above the seal, it could be too much for the seal if it is older.


You should buy my clutch, I will give you a deal on it! haha.
It's pretty much only a matter of time. I'm waiting to hear how much this repair is going to run me before I tie up any more funds though.

[Garrison]

Waiting on the new transmission mount to solidify and then I'm driving the old girl down to my wonderful mechanic and he's going to install an impreza rack with whiteline bushings, as well as the hardened transmission mount and hopefully buttoning up my oil leak.

I'll report back on the results. I'm hoping for a baller-ass outback wagon :grin:

[Garrison]

Teaser photos

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af158/Garrisonbowers/IMAG0188.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0199-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0200-2.jpg

[Garrison]

I dropped my scoob off at my mechanic this afternoon and talked with him about what I wanted done. The more I thought about it, the more I decided I only wanted to have to put it on the lift once, so I'd put in anothernord's clutch (thanks again man), and you know, while you're there I doubt the transmission fluid has ever been changed, and with the stiffer bushing I'm going to wish I had,... yes, please change the transmission fluid while you're there as well.

In addition to the rack w/ tie rods/boots, and fixing the oil leak (guess where? The GDMF oil drain line.), I'm looking at a healthy bill I'm sure. But I've been saving specifically for this, so fingers crossed, it won't rape my wallet.

[SVO1]

I may have missed it, did you upgrade your fuel pump to keep up with the higher demand with the FMU?

[Garrison]

Yessir, post numero uno. I bumped the pump to a walbro 255lph, although an sti fuel pump would work at these boost levels just as well.

[Garrison]

Found an awesome calculator for the power I should be putting down:

http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html

According to the calc, I'm putting down 266 crank hp and 235 crank trq @ 7psi with conservative numbers for the calculations. Not too damn shabby for a bone stock ej25d.

You only need fill out the left column and hit the "calc" button.

[Garrison]

And now I've got her back.

First impressions, awesome handling for an outback wagon. I like the tightness of the steering, it responds very well to twisty roads.
Clutch replaced as well, and it's a very similar feeling to the stock clutch, but a much earlier release (which I love). I wasn't aware my clutch had been so worn, but with <150hp it didn't matter too much. Now though, the driveline is nice and tight. I don't know what gear oil he used in the transmission, but it feels noticeably less bound and, while not smoother, is definitely crisper through the gears.

NVH has increased a bit, but nothing like I thought it would. The shifter does vibrate a bit more under hard acceleration, but as you shouldn't ride your hand on the shifter anyway, I'm not even aware of it 98% of the time. I'm not sure he was able to button up the oil leak, so I'll take a look at that tomorrow if the weather is nice.

[Garrison]

So I called to double check, but my mechanic was unable to get to the oil drain problem. He said he thought he noticed it coming from the mating of the flange to the line, the 2-part section where the SS line screws into. So now, I've opted to go with a much simpler choice and use something along this line:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Turbo- ... 5351wt_952 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Turbo-Oil-Return-Drain-Flange-T3-T4-T04E-T70-/160453522891?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item255bc675cb#ht_5351wt_952)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/ETDTRBFLGDRAIN1JPG-1.jpg

and just use hi-temp, oil rated hose. This whole debacle has made me loathe my decision to go turbo, but if I can button it up with this I might be changing my tune.

[Garrison]

Before I bought anything else, I talked to my local fab-guy at phoenix motorsports in asheville (the turbo shop I've before referenced) and he suggested a few different tricks to deal with the leak. I attempted a few of them, as well as mounted the adhesive-backed gasket to the turbo instead of to the flange (since the oil has been seeping through the turbo side of the gasket). I also took ~ 1-2mm of material off the flange at the bolt holes, and not the center, to try and raise the center up and seal it even further.

I'm letting the car warm itself up now, but so far things look good. Will report back later.

[anothernord]

Oil leaks are the bain of turbo builds. Don't worry though; once it is buttoned up good, you won't look back.

Unless you blow your engine, like I did.

[Garrison]

Well I've raped it in every conceivable manner I can think of, and no more leaks. Hell, there's not even any more smoke. I'll be damned, but I really think it's fixed. And you're right Jared, I'm already forgiving the car for all the past trouble its caused me, haha.

Lesson learned. Gasket the turbo, not the flange :D

[Lsnaple]

Good book, I have the same one! Hope your setup stays leak free!

[SVO1]

I always use the composite style drain gaskets that were used on the SVO and other 2.3 Turbos. Never had a leak from them :)

[Garrison]

Thanks for the kind words and advice. My next plans for the build are to swap Sti springs for my forester springs and to put stickier tires on. But both of those mods have to wait for the new year, as funds will be up and snow levels will be down. For now, I'm just going to enjoy having a running scoob. Also, I'll be sourcing a t3 and ways to make that bolt up in place of the t4.

If you guys have any questions about the build, or anything I forgot to cover, let me know.

[Garrison]

Alrighty, I need to figure this out. P0108:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0241-1.jpg

This is my vehicle vacuum chart.
And this is where my problem lies (purge solenoid valve):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0242-1.jpg

I have no f*cking clue where this thing goes, so I capped it. But obviously, I have a p0108 now. Everything else is lined up correctly but I cannot, for the life of me, figure out where this is supposed to go. "To Canister"... What canister? Where? Please help me out.

[anothernord]

See how that lines T's right off the solenoid? One line goes off under the purge solenoid and attaches to a hard line that goes under the manifold and to the charcoal canister.

I'm fairly certain that the line you plugged goes to a third nipple on the pressure exchange solenoid on the strut tower. At least this is the way my car is setup. I know some of the newer cars didn't have a PES with a third port on them. What does your PEC solenoid look like?

[Garrison]

My PEC (which the diagram refers to as the pressure sources switching solenoid) looks like this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0243-1.jpg


I kept searching for the mystical third nipple (giggidy) but found nothing. It looks like the PEC only goes from there, to the intake manifold and fuel pressure regulator.

Also, I tracked the "hard line" which the purge solenoid valve goes to and found that they dead-end.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0244-1.jpg

[anothernord]

That in the last picture should go to your charcoal canister, which is the black round cylinder that sits up by the passenger headlight, at least in the older cars. The newer ones have it under the rear unibody somewhere. You were correct in plugging the line in your previous post.

The Pressure sources exchange solenoid just changes the signal that gets fed to the MAP sensor from atmospheric pressure to engine manifold pressure.

[Garrison]

I took a photo of behind my passenger headlight. No dice.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0245-1.jpg


So... wtf and I supposed to do here? loop the two lines that have been capped off in this picture?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0244-1.jpg

The one wrapped in black tape tracks back up under the manifold and I lose track of it there.

[anothernord]

So, you're missing your charcoal canister outright, it appears. That big line goes under the manifold, and pops out with the fuel lines on the right side of the manifold. The smallest of the three (on the bottom of the "tree") is the gas tank breather.

Snag a canister and mount from a junkyard, connect the big line to the one you have wrapped in black tape, and the small line to the one that you have capped off in the picture above. That should do it.

[Garrison]

Ah... I see where you're going with this now. What happens if I just loop them? The two lines that must be connected.

[anothernord]

Well, I don't suppose either would be a good idea. I'd say to cap both lines securely and get that canister asap. It will help your gas mileage a little anyway.

[Garrison]

Word. My local junkyard charges $20 minimum for anything. Which I think is ridiculous, but what are you going to do.
Thanks 'Nord.

[Garrison]

Does the charcoal canister have a plug, or wire connected to it? If so, I think I just found where the previous owner removed it.

Also, checked with both local junkyards, one of which sent me to the other, who just crushed his last 98 legacy about a week ago.
So, I'm in the hunt.

[Garrison]

Whoopy! Got me a charcoal canister with lines! Can't believe the PO would toss out something like this and think "yeah, that'll be okay".

Also, bonus, I found out that my headgaskets have already been done (oem subaru 3-ply metal gasket). A nice surprise for sure :D

[anothernord]

2 less things to worry about! The canister should fix the CEL in a jiffy.

[Garrison]

It definitely has helped, but clutching it in still kills it. I really wish that would have fixed it but oh well. I think the colder plugs are giving me smack.

[Garrison]

Well, weird. Now it seems to be a crap-shoot as to whether or not it dies. Driving around today, I have had no problems.

[Reason]

Change out the colder plugs and see how it runs. I was having bogging and dieing issues a few months back. I changed out a bunch of things and im not tops ute what fixed it. But It still is sluggish and I gave up and just changing everything. I changed the MAF, injectors, TPS, IAC valve and adjusted the idle. It's sluggish still but it stays running. It also just could be the mileage catching up with the old girl too.

[Garrison]

I've been wondering that same thing too. But I messaged the man I got the ideas for this build from, and he said the necessity of colder plugs was that they were "playing good defense". I.E. no dice; I'm not willing to run the risk of detonation to fix a minor irritant. But in the winter, I'm debating whether colder plugs are actually necessary. I'm fairly sure the intercooler (despite it not being quite large enough) is still providing vastly cooled charge air with regards to the ambient temperature never exceeding 55 around here for the next 4 months. Too bad there isn't someone who actually specializes in projects like this, I'd love to pick their brain.



Cold plugs use some of that wiggle room in the cooling system. Cold plugs have a cooler operating temperature, like hotter plugs run hotter. The heat goes somewhere, which is through the heads and into the cooling system. Boxers run hot in the rings. That's also where detonation is most likely to occur. Shitty fuel makes things worse. Combustion temps rise when you introduce boost and higher power levels. Cold plugs are like good defense.

Hey again,

I followed your how-to guide pretty much to a "T", and I was wondering your opinion on this. How necessary are 1-step colder plugs?

[Garrison]

I can hear the misfires going on at idle, and I agree I think the colder plugs are to blame.

I took out some of the slack in the throttle cable and it helped the idle immensely. There is still some room left to go if I find that my adjustment wasn't sufficient, but in the mean-time, I think I could accurately use the word "happy" whilst referencing my feelings towards the car.

I just wish the damn turbo would spool sooner :smt019 :grin:


EDIT: What's everyone's opinion about lessening the gap a little more on the plugs? Right now they should all measure out at .030" and I could definitely pull them and re-gap to .027" or .025" with an hour's effort. Do you think that would help the problem any? Also, got a misfire code for cylinder 3 today as well as cylinder 1. I'm almost positive now that the plugs are to blame, but as mentioned above, I cannot afford to detonate my engine, so the plugs have to stay, more or less.

[anothernord]

What type of plugs are you using? If you use the BKRE7-11, then they're pre-gapped for N/A and will create a funny slated electrode when they're taken down.

The rule of thumb is usually that you go down in heat range for every 100 HP over stock, so you're fine using the colder plugs. With the stock ignition coil, I would think that .030 would be fine, but if you're having misfires, gap them down and see what happens.

You might consider upgrading to the MSD coil. Because of it's higher output voltage, you can run a bigger gap; I use .035-.037 with no misfires.

[Garrison]

What type of plugs are you using? If you use the BKRE7-11, then they're pre-gapped for N/A and will create a funny slated electrode when they're taken down.

The rule of thumb is usually that you go down in heat range for every 100 HP over stock, so you're fine using the colder plugs. With the stock ignition coil, I would think that .030 would be fine, but if you're having misfires, gap them down and see what happens.

You might consider upgrading to the MSD coil. Because of it's higher output voltage, you can run a bigger gap; I use .035-.037 with no misfires.
Yes, that's the type I'm using. And I agree the electrode is slightly slanted when de-gapping them, but if you say it's cool I'll spend a bit and regap them.

[Garrison]

Regapped to .027" and absolutely NO change. Tomorrow I'll be picking up oem ngk's and swapping them out.

*crosses fingers*

[Garrison]

I've been doing some Google-ing and I've got a few new leads. I'm going to check, and if need be, adjust my tps sensor as well as change the sparks to oem ngk. If that still doesn't get it done I'm going to get my hands dirty and pull/re-clean the iacv. If that fails you'll be seeing a fs/ft ad soon.

[Garrison]

I played with the tps for about 2 hours. Everytime I would get it almost perfect I would turn it just a little too much, trip a CEL and then it's back to square 1... Hence the 2 hour comment. But, fast forward and I finally have a car whose idle only fluctuates ~50rpm or so. I'm satisfied for now in that dept.

[anothernord]

If I recall, the voltage output from the TPS when closed should be .45-.55 volts. Get your multimeter out and backprobe the pins (I forget which two) until you get a voltage reading, then adjust from there. I found that just adjusting it while the engine runs never works out quite right.

Alternatively, get a scan gauge or something, and read the throttle position. Then, adjust the TPS until it reads 0. This method is easier, but you get the possibility of adjusting it too far.


For the IACV; the way I always like to clean them is to mark the screw locations with a marker or something, then remove the coil part on the top. This gives you the ability to spin the flappy-door by hand. Then, just spray brake cleaner into the thing while opening and closing the flappydoo. Works every time.

[Garrison]

I used that method for the iacv before I installed it the first time, and you're right it moves with almost no effort, so by that logic the iacv is not to blame. Having now driven it I'm much happier with it but I haven't tried clutching it in 4k or anything. But stoplight or stop sign stops, the idle settles at 750 with np drop. Which I'm excited about to be honest.

I can't make up my mind if I want to change the plugs or not. The misfires are definitely a result of the plugs but after ~800 miles cylinder #1 looked normal if a little sooty (prior to gapping it down to .027").

[Garrison]

Did you have to remove your intercooler to check the readings? I believe based on where the tps plug extends to, that may be what I need to do.


Important question, is 7psi intercooled and 92-93 octane enough to detonate in my engine without the cold plugs? I'm debating this and can't convince myself that it's worth it, but I could just be being a baby.

[anothernord]

On your setup you might, but I didn't have to. Even then, it's not a huge task in the grand scheme of things.

The preignition thing all depends on how much timing you are running, which in the case of the stock ECU, is a lot. I'm bot too certain hoe much heat is removed by the plugs, but I don't think it to be significant enough at this boost level to make a difference.

[Garrison]

I spent a massive amount of time trying to do this properly and I just was unable to get any results. All my voltometer showed was a constant 5 volts. Not helpful. So I put everything back together, installed the new oem plugs and retuned the tps by hand/idle. It's not perfect, but it'll work. Thankfully no pinging at wot/redline either, which is nice.

[Garrison]

Okay w.t.f. Misfire on #1 cylinder CEL popped up today.

[Garrison]

Is this the correct way the lines should be hooked up to the charcoal canister?
Still getting random CELs, p0108, p0440, misfire cylinder #1.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0269-1.jpg

[anothernord]

That little line should plug into the little hard line you have a blue cap on. That line just goes to the purge solenoid.

[Garrison]

Well shit. Then where does this thing go?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0242-1.jpg

[anothernord]

Normally, it would go to the pressure sources exchange solenoid, but since yours is the one with only 2 vacuum ports, it goes nowhere. I don't know where the small vacuum hose from the charcoal canister was going to, but it ideally goes on the small hardline that you have capped right there. That hard line pops out right under the purge solenoid, where it has a small hose that goes into the inside nipple on the purge solenoid.

[anothernord]

Oh, and your codes; your p0108 is due to the pressure sensor reading your boost and suddenly thinking you dove down below the earth's crust in altitude. The only real way to take care of that is to clamp the voltage signal to it, or possible add in a restrictor pill inline to make it see less pressure. I use my Emanage's Analog Output map to clap the max voltage that goes to the ECU from the sensor to 4V.

[Garrison]

Well I'll be damned. 'Nord, you are a freaking genius. Driveablity problems have all but disappeared (save for that pesky TPS; I think mine is bad). It runs WAAAAAAY smoother than before *go figure* and I'm not pulling any codes. Man it feels good to be a gangster.

I'm receiving a td04 and I'll be porting and polishing it. Should make for a much more useable powerband.

[d1giPhux]

You need to get some real hosting.. sucks for people who want to read through your build.. but all the damn pictures are gone! GET A REAL IMAGE HOST. Please! :lol:

[Garrison]

I took down the images that were no longer important to me... I think it was like 4 total?
The image-host is actually pretty good (photobucket), are you unable to view them? That sucks, it works for me :-?

[d1giPhux]

I'm able to view some of them, but photobucket / imageshack / all those suck.. because in the future, they will disappear. Which sucks, because this has been a really fun thread to read. It was just irritating me I couldn't see pictures :lol:

Its all good tho!

[httrdd]

Well shit. Then where does this thing go?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/IMAG0242-1.jpg

Is that an ok way to plug the hose? I know dealing with pneumatics screws leak. You need a 1/4" barbed plug for that. I can send you one or two from work. :wink:

[Garrison]

I'm able to view some of them, but photobucket / imageshack / all those suck.. because in the future, they will disappear. Which sucks, because this has been a really fun thread to read. It was just irritating me I couldn't see pictures :lol:

Its all good tho!
What do you recommend?


Is that an ok way to plug the hose? I know dealing with pneumatics screws leak. You need a 1/4" barbed plug for that. I can send you one or two from work. :wink:

It doesn't seem to have caused any problems. My TPS is what's breaking my balls and I just happened to remember the other night that I have a spare OEM on the TB I was going to fab for an old SC build I was planning. Turns out I didn't need to spend the $35 on a new-ish one. :/ Darn.

[Garrison]

Sooo, funny story today.
I went into the attic and grabbed a spare TPS sensor that I had up there, and installed it. Then, on a wild hair, I started looking more at the VSS and noticed this:

Mystery 3rd nipple? Voila:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/IMAG0273-1.jpg

Check out what the PO had covering it. No wonder I couldn't find it:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/IMAG0274-1.jpg

That little inner seal is a piece of rubber hosing to hold the cap in place. I was both impressed and livid. So, I recapped it and took a trip to NAPA. A couple of feet of rubber tubing later, I now have a completed vacuum system. I cannot believe the nonsense I had to go through with this, but it does culminate the end of my build. I will likely be selling this wagon in a couple of weeks. I know, I know, how dare I. But the vehicle has cost me well over $6000 and I would just like to start again knowing what I now know.

[anothernord]

Well, there you have it. I had no idea that the solenoids of that variety were just sandbaggin' and really do have the mysterious "third nipple". :lol:

[Huffer]

So hold up, your vac system never worked properly BEFORE you added the turbo etc to it?

[Garrison]

So hold up, your vac system never worked properly BEFORE you added the turbo etc to it?
Unknown to me, but yes. The previous owner had removed the charcoal canister and capped the hose to/from the VSS on the passenger side panel. I see what you're driving at though, and yes, I agree. A large portion of my drivability problems likely stemmed from that fact.

[Garrison]

Bump, video added in the first of 80% throttle hill-climb. I removed everything yesterday (except the headers). Man that was a PITA, not having a lift to do it on. Oh well, shiz is done now.

[Garrison]

I had a little freakout today.

I was reassembling everything from having removed the turbo kit, and I sheered off the oil sending unit switch when I was torquing it back down. Not realizing they are as cheap as they are, I welded it back in one piece. but it looked like shit.
Not really trusting that, and needing vacuum caps, I went to O'Reillys and price checked the switch. $7 for a lifetime warranty? Yes please.

So I installed it with a spare housing-bolt that I had and voila: new sending unit.


Rebuilt. Wa-bam!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/IMAG0286-1.jpg

[anothernord]

That's once nice thing about bolt-on setups. They can be un-bolted.

What's the new plan then?

[Garrison]

Well, my friend. I will be taking the AFOQT (Air Force Officer Qualifying Test) in January, and therefore the future of this rig depends heavily on the results of that test. If they accept me, I'll probably be DD'ing this, and then sell it when the time comes. If they don't, I will be crestfallen, but it'll be back to the professional job hunt...

And she'll be getting a built 2.2 block to mix with the 2.5 dohc heads, and a td05 18g tuned to the nod of 15psi with a piggyback aem or greddy management system, and wrx injectors.

[Garrison]

I got the stock exhaust remade with a high-flow cat and stock muffler today and it's sooooooooo quiet. It's like riding around in a ghost car. I don't mind the silence, it's actually pretty nice. I do however, hate the lack of boost. This thing is a turd in stock form and I had forgotten that. Oh well.

[nikolaus.conrad]

Hahaha so once you sell the Outback what are you looking to buy for your new project?

[Garrison]

Hahaha so once you sell the Outback what are you looking to buy for your new project?
Well unfortunately there were only a few cars that came with the heads that I want, and it would be nice to get something like that. But If that were to fall through, I could have a 2.2 block mated to 2.5 dohc AVCS JDM heads and that should net me some nice gains. The problems with this are numerous, but, a guy can dream.