Help!

[Tinobag]

As I was stopping for a light my car randomly stalled. When I started it back up it was only running on 2 cylinders. I pulled over and let it sit for about 2 minutes before turning it back one. After that it ran fine and didn't give me any more trouble. The CEL has been on for a couple days now. But I figure it could be anything. (The CEL will come on and off randomly, and I have electrical gremlins >:|). Any ideas at what could have caused this weird occurrence?

[Huffer]

Unless you fix your electrical gremlins, it could be anything. Could have been a loose wire onthe spark plug, iacv, tps sensor.... Etc etc

[harrymaneuvers]

What codes specifically is it throwing? Or is it blinking periodically when you are driving?

First thing you need to do is find out if it is the same two cylinders that are misfiring. Keep clearing and checking the codes and see if the misfire jumps from cylinder to cylinder.

If so, then you know that it is not something cylinder specific but more or less a spark/fuel/timing issue.

If not, then you have narrowed down the exact cylinders and you can begin to look at each one in terms of plug, plug wire, fuel injector, ect ect.


Hope that helps.

[02_Legacy]

I hate it when people post a problem and at the end they add "oh ya and my check engine light is on but I don't have a code" if you have a problem and the check engine light is on you need to get the code. Simply telling us it's misfiring could be anything but if you said it's misfiring and it has a ____ code we may be able to figure it out.

[Tinobag]

Where should I get the code read? Is there any good Subaru place around Haverford PA?

[Huffer]

Any autoparts store has code scanners. Seriously though, if you plan to DIY any mechanical work, invest in a decent code scanner.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Any auto parts store will read that code for you for free.

How do you know that 2 cylinders were out without pulling a code?

[Tinobag]

I just assumed because it sounded like a harley but was still smooth. (Therefor the two companion Cylinders must have been working or it would have been vibrating like heck!). I got the codes read today at school. But all I remember is a misfire on #2 cylinder, and something about my MAF. There where two additional codes but I can't remember what they where. I will know more on Thursday.

[02_Legacy]

I got the codes read today at school. But all I remember is a misfire on #2 cylinder, and something about my MAF. There where two additional codes but I can't remember what they where. I will know more on Thursday.


*facepalm*

[harrymaneuvers]

^this


You will want to know exactly which codes it is throwing.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ - Look halfway down the page at the OBD2 codes.

As mentioned, you are going to want to invest in a good scanner (Scangauge 2 is awesome!) so that you can clear the codes and re-check when it throws them again to make sure it is the exact same codes. From there you can narrow it down as I described above.


The check engine light codes will point to items that are not running right within you engine. Then you just need to find out why they are not running correctly and fix.

PLEASE DONT TAKE THIS AS A DIAGNOSIS but some common things that we see here are:

- IACV (air idle control valve) sometimes needs cleaning, but this will cause your idle to be off and studdering/lurching. AIR
- Corrosion. The grounding system in our cars is weak by design (grounding points are on painted surfaces) and a corroded terminal post or plug wire should be cause for further inspection. Spark
- Clogged or failing injector. Would be specific to a cylinder and not move from cylinder to cylinder. Fuel


Get the exact codes and you can go from there.

[Tinobag]

I got the codes read today at school. But all I remember is a misfire on #2 cylinder, and something about my MAF. There where two additional codes but I can't remember what they where. I will know more on Thursday.


*facepalm*


Don't you have something better to do? If I don't have the information you want or need to help me out. Don't post. I don't need your crap.

[Huffer]

Uh, we are tryig to help you. But you need to fix some things and get us some info too. :)

[harrymaneuvers]

Tinobag - nobody here is being malishious or mean... but letting you know that your vague description of your engine problems are about as useful as an expired coupon to a buisness that is no longer open.

[Tinobag]

I understand that. And I'm trying to work things out. Being a college student means a couple things, 1 I don't a whole bunch of money, and 2 I don't have a whole bunch of time. I rely on my car to get me to school every day and its about an hour drive. LUCKILY I'm going to Automotive school so on lab days I can get the codes read, and other nice things. Like I said I will get the codes read again on Thursday.

02_Legacy, I apologize. I'm under a lot of stress right now. I know your just trying to help and I appreciate it.

Little update on whats going on:

So on Tuesday I got in on a lab day at school and got the codes read. I did not do it myself and I didn't get a chance to write them down. They cleared the codes and turned the CEL off. On my way home it turned back on, and stalled at the same light!

Tonight. I started the car, and the CEL didn't come on until after driving a little ways (10-15m). Then at the SAME light it happened again! Just like clockwork. This time instead of just turning the key from where it sat after the stall, I turned it all the way off and out, then started it again. It started on all four cylinders and ran fine the rest of the way home.

FYI: It doesn't stall at any light in the morning. Only after school on my way home. And only once.

[Huffer]

We still need the code... does the CEL illuminate when the car stalls out? In that case, borrow a code reader and read it then.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Does it ever run rough before it stalls? Or right after you've started it and you're running fine, does it do it? I'm almost wondering if there's some sort of vibration issue causing an electrical short.

Speculation though until we know what those codes are. Like I mentioned before, Advance, Autozone, Oreilleys, whomever you have should pull codes for free and they usually have nice wide hours.

[Tinobag]

The class that would have read the code for me didn't have a lab today :( so I didn't get it read then. I'm going to go to Midas tomorrow morning and get it read. It does illuminate when It stalls along with the oil pressure and my seat belt light. It doesn't run rough before it stall only if I start it without moving the key fully off after a stall. And it stalled again. AT THE SAME LIGHT! its so strange. I don't get home until 9pm ish so I can't get them read after school. I'm also going to replace my spark plugs with NGK V-powers. Maybe that will help. Regardless they need to be done.

[Wiscon_Mark]

The NGK V-power copper plugs are a good choice. I don't think that's what was causing the stalling. Does it stall any other time besides that light? Is the light at a downgrade or vice versa where the fuel pump might not be picking up enough fuel to idle? Just some ideas.

[Tinobag]

Nope. There really isn't anything special about that light. (I mean there obviously is because it only stalls at that light.)

[Tinobag]

UGH! My car is being so difficult! Whenever I can get the code read (I.E. in the morning) the CEL isn't on. I'm beginning to think its a IACV or a broken or loose vacuum line. It didn't stall at all this weekend or tonight. But it has the rest of the week. SO FRUSTRATING!

[02_Legacy]

is it still only stalling at that one light or is it happening at other times too? and does it just die or does it stumble before or at other times?

[Tinobag]

Yeah its only at that light. I think its speed related. I.E. getting up to >60MPH then stopping. The reason I think this is because my headlights shorted out the other night. So I was driving much slower and it didn't stall at any lights, and no CEL. I drove slow on purpose the next night and the same thing happened. When it dies, it just goes. But it has been running rough if I'm merging onto the highway in 5th at around 2k RPM and I get on the gas pasted half way it starts to jerk a bit...

[Wiscon_Mark]

That really makes it sound more like a fuel delivery issue. Did you not get any codes? Even if the CEL is off again, the ECU should store the codes until they're cleared or the ECU is reset.

[Tinobag]

Hmm... I didn't know that. I will see if MIDAS will look at them for me, even when the CEL is off...

[Tinobag]

HAHA! Finally the CEL stayed on when I started it in the morning! I went to MIDAs right away and got the code pulled. I got a P1507, which they said is the vehicle speed sensor. My speedo and odo don't work sometimes so this makes sense. But could that really be whats causing me to stall? They said it probably was, and If it needs to be replaced then I will do it anyway.

[02_Legacy]

Well that makes sence with your theory that it is a speed related problem. If the speed sensor is not working than the computer doesn't know how fast the car is going and that could definatly cause a problem. I would start by replacing the speed sensor than.

[Tinobag]

Could anyone recommend somewhere where I could get one cheap? I'm on a really tight budget here (college student).

[TGX4776]

junk yard is the cheapest. after that autozone or advance or Amazon.com

[Tinobag]

I found a GT in a local junkyard I will pull the speed sensor. It also has some one piece headlights! Sadly its a GT, so it doesn't have a wingless trunk. Which I am looking for...

[harrymaneuvers]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 128&page=2 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1123128&page=2)

"3 things have been used to fix this....

1 - Cleaning the IACV
2 - Replacing the Neutral Switch
3 - Loosening your throttle cable from being "piano string - hitting High C" to a little loose so that the throttle plate sits 100% closed.

(#3 is why both I had this code pop up a year ago and the reason my friends did it today.)

Good luck!"

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1796446 (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1796446)

[Tinobag]

Huh... never even heard of a neutral switch. Where is it located? I have already loosened my throttle cable and I plan on cleaning out the IACV once I get tools to do it.

[harrymaneuvers]

Cmon man... google search is your friend...

I have an AT so I have no clue... but typing in "subaru legacy neutral switch" provided me with enough info to determine that the switch is attached to your clutch pedal under the dash... if you have cruise control you will have two switches attached to your clutch pedal.

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1___ ... ral+switch (http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1_____enUS408US408&gcx=w&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=subaru+legacy+neutral+switch)

[Tinobag]

I know. I was just being lazy. And tired too. Thanks though.

I was getting an oil pressure light consistently while braking for speedbumps. So I go and check it and everything seems fine. Until I open the oil fill cap... There is a bunch of air blowing out of it!!! PLEASE tell me that this is a Subaru thing and not blow by. I really don't want to have to dig in there and replace rings...

[harrymaneuvers]

Um I thought the crank case would have a vacuum if anything...

Oil pressure light while braking for speed bumps sounds like low oil level... how closely do you monitor your oil level?


I am pretty sure that if you are running like a quart or more low that your oil light will come on to warn you that your oil level has dropped...