View Full Version : Installing UELs
Subieee
10-17-2011, 10:21 AM
What's up guys
My uel headers should be coming soon, anyone have any helpful hints on installing these?
They're going on a '97 Outback, I've read I need to use a smaller oil filter, is that true(k&n)? Anything else I should know?
prodriver1
10-17-2011, 10:41 AM
use a wrx oil filter, and use mobil one or k&n filter they are a higher flow filter, shyt filters will block themselves off in high temp high flow situations and your oil wont be getting filtered just pumped through your system.
Subieee
10-17-2011, 11:35 AM
Yes i'm aware
But i want installation tips lol thanks though man
prodriver1
10-17-2011, 01:15 PM
I've read I need to use a smaller oil filter, is that true(k&n)? Anything else I should know?
thats why I said use a WRX filter
your welcome :neutral:
Huffer
10-17-2011, 01:52 PM
All OEM Subaru oil filters are now the small kind. The only Subaru that takes a larger filter is the H6 engine.
As for installation tips for the headers, start soaking your bolts with PB blaster for the next few days... and expect a massive fight with rusty bolts. You could also pick up some OEM gaskets for the header: pre-header, post header gaskets. Don't use the crap Ebay ones. If you have some time, people recommend wrapping or coating the header.
B's Legacy Wagon
10-17-2011, 02:06 PM
^both posts are excellent posts/info. with the correct oil filter idea and the PB blaster;new oem gaskets; and maybe read up or decied on the wraping/coating vs plain debate and what your weather/climant is like, if to do it or not. oh and post some pictures when your done hehe.
prodriver1
10-17-2011, 03:44 PM
ya wrapping the header is a MASSIVE improvement on sound, you get a pinging sound that ruins the rumble without it.
chuckthefuk
10-17-2011, 03:49 PM
Plus there are always benefits to wrapping & coating.
- Lower temps under the the motor (cooler oil filter / oil pan / lower radiator section)
"Keeping heat in the exhaust keeps engine bay temps down as a byproduct of the real benefit. Hotter gasses are higher velocity gasses. Hot exhaust clears faster than "cold" does, and helps scavenge the cylinders better increasing volumetric efficiency. The benefits to intake temps are only secondary, though they are benefits and every little bit helps." - bgrieger
-Chuck
anothernord
10-17-2011, 06:02 PM
+1 on PB Blaster. I actually had to just sawzall the header > cat bolts off. Be prepared for a saga.
Wiscon_Mark
10-17-2011, 06:06 PM
+1 on PB Blaster. I actually had to just sawzall the header > cat bolts off. Be prepared for a saga.
This. They're such a PITA, I'd almost just recommend cutting the bolts off right away instead of struggling with the old ones and getting new bolts to replace them. My flange bolts are so rusted, I can't even recognize any kind of bolt head to apply a wrench to anyways!
Subieee
10-18-2011, 09:56 AM
These are the responses I like to see lol
So I've got PB, oem gaskets on the way...and a sawzall on hand hahah
And I should just wrap them, correct? I'll always take the extra time to do something the right way
LGTtoBE
10-18-2011, 10:40 AM
I used Aerokroil to break-up the rust on my nuts and bolts. On one of them though, the rust was so bad that the socket and wrench stripped the flat faces off. I used a a socket type extractor (that digs into the surface) and a breaker bar to remove them.
Make sure that you install them evenly. Try sliding the flanges and gaskets over the exhaust studs (and just screwing the nuts on with a few turns) while supporting the rear with a jack (small scissor type is fine). Then line up the rear flange and gasket with the Cat and loosely install the nuts and bolts (make sure you have enough room for the bolt head and nut to turn freely as sometimes the heat shield will cause conflicts). Go back to the front and hand tighten the nuts on both sides. Then (for best results) alternate bolts and sides until tight. Move to the cat and finish tightening there.
Subieee
10-18-2011, 04:49 PM
Thank man I'm aware on how to tighten everything evenly. Thanks for the heads up, maybe I'll give that spray you used a shot. I have a feeling the bolts to the cat will be a pain -__-
rougeben83
10-18-2011, 08:51 PM
short of a sawzall, have an angle grinder handy to cut off the manifold to cat bolts if they give you too much trouble. Undo all the exhaust hangers except the rear ones, place a jack under the catalytic, and undo the head to manifold bolts. You can get better access to those damn bolts to cut them off...
Subieee
10-18-2011, 10:06 PM
Nice nice, more tips ;) haha thanks guys
prodriver1
10-19-2011, 09:53 AM
best tip... dont bring your beer under the car with you or you'll get rust falling into it :smt030 :smt022
r3v_v3ng3
10-19-2011, 07:39 PM
If its the ebay replica uel you may want to enlarge the holes where the bolt goes. Had to do that to my friends car
Garrison
10-19-2011, 09:59 PM
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned porting your exhaust manifold. Them ports is restrictive.
Subieee
10-20-2011, 02:01 PM
My electric dremel would take foreverrr lol
Garrison
10-20-2011, 02:02 PM
True. Find a friend with a pneumatic grinder if you're going to do it.
And use something rated for steel grinding as a bit.
Subieee
11-01-2011, 09:19 AM
Thanks for the tips guys
Got them on and they sound awesome :D
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