harrymaneuvers
10-17-2011, 06:12 PM
For those of you who dont know, I bought a set of 4/2 pot calipers off of a 2007 WRX from a no-name german dismantler in SoCal. This was after months of search for the right deal. I will take a moment to mention how much I love statewidelist.com where you can search every Craigslist site within a state at the same time.
This is how they showed up with next day shipping :(
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0464jpgt1316538824-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0466jpgt1318885261-2.jpg
After sand blasting them. Note that I taped the piston areas with painters tape. I would use clean release duct tape next time as the painters tape began to come off during sandblasting.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
Calipers with all pins, clips, pads, pistons, seals and boots removed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0489jpgt1317519087-1.jpg
A few of the pistons had surface rust on the outside of the piston (not the part that seals). That was removed with Evapo-rust.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/062-2.jpg
Split calipers, remove AND SAVE O-Rings, tape mating surfaces.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/066-2.jpg
VHT flameproof Primer. Note I left the old bleeder in as I was replacing them with speedbleeders. I also got a bolt to seal the brake line hole.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/070jpgt1318885835-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/079-1.jpg
3 Coats of VHT Real Red Caliper paint:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/083-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/084-1.jpg
I ended up REUSING THE OEM O-rings because they fit the recessed opening much better than the Z1motorsports O-Ring.
OEM notice how the O-ring is nearly perfectly fitted to the opening:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/101-1.jpg
Z1motorsports Notice the gap between the rounded O-Ring and the recessed area that it fits in:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/104-1.jpg
Reassembled with touch up coats of Red paint along seams of calipers. FYI I tried two methods of covering the piston area prior to painting. One involved using newspaper to stuff the hole for the piston and use the boots/rings that are going to be replaced anyways to cover the area. The other involved using clean release duct tape. Both worked great but the first method was quicker.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/106jpgt1318886365-1.jpg
Applying Ebay Hi Temp decals from seller SuperGraphicsF1 (website is http://www.supergraphicsf1.com/Brakes-Subaru.htm)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/108-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/120-2.jpg
3 coats of VHT Caliper Clear Coat over the decals then time to start putting the seals and pistons in.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/132-1.jpg
Finished product fully reassembled.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/133-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/135-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/137-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/140-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/141-2.jpg
A few thoughts on the process:
Splitting the calipers seemed to be the easiest way to cleanly paint under/around the bolts.
The O-Rings in the center seemed completely unaffected by the first 4 years of use. I opted to use the OEM ring instead of the Z1motorsports o-rings.
I would recommend barely rebolting the two sides together prior to touching up any seams or missed spots and baking. If you try to tightly bolt the two sides together before baking the final product, the soft paint will tear or pull up right around the bolt flanges where they make contact with the painted surface. In thinking about it afterwards, the rear 2 pots didnt have this problem because the bolt has a washer and not a flange... adding a washer between the flange bolt and the soft, painted surface might eliminate this issue while the paint is still soft. Then after all touch-up and baking is done (paint is hard), the washers can be removed one at a time to avoid the calipers splitting the painted seam again.
Once you take the calipers out of the oven, DONT TOUCH THEM AT ALL. The paint is hot and INCREDIBALLY easy to peel and tear.
The decals seem to be of REALLY good quality and they were really easy to apply.
Thanks for reading!!!
This is how they showed up with next day shipping :(
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/09/IMAG0464jpgt1316538824-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0466jpgt1318885261-2.jpg
After sand blasting them. Note that I taped the piston areas with painters tape. I would use clean release duct tape next time as the painters tape began to come off during sandblasting.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/
Calipers with all pins, clips, pads, pistons, seals and boots removed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0489jpgt1317519087-1.jpg
A few of the pistons had surface rust on the outside of the piston (not the part that seals). That was removed with Evapo-rust.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/062-2.jpg
Split calipers, remove AND SAVE O-Rings, tape mating surfaces.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/066-2.jpg
VHT flameproof Primer. Note I left the old bleeder in as I was replacing them with speedbleeders. I also got a bolt to seal the brake line hole.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/070jpgt1318885835-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/079-1.jpg
3 Coats of VHT Real Red Caliper paint:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/083-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/084-1.jpg
I ended up REUSING THE OEM O-rings because they fit the recessed opening much better than the Z1motorsports O-Ring.
OEM notice how the O-ring is nearly perfectly fitted to the opening:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/101-1.jpg
Z1motorsports Notice the gap between the rounded O-Ring and the recessed area that it fits in:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/104-1.jpg
Reassembled with touch up coats of Red paint along seams of calipers. FYI I tried two methods of covering the piston area prior to painting. One involved using newspaper to stuff the hole for the piston and use the boots/rings that are going to be replaced anyways to cover the area. The other involved using clean release duct tape. Both worked great but the first method was quicker.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/106jpgt1318886365-1.jpg
Applying Ebay Hi Temp decals from seller SuperGraphicsF1 (website is http://www.supergraphicsf1.com/Brakes-Subaru.htm)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/108-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/120-2.jpg
3 coats of VHT Caliper Clear Coat over the decals then time to start putting the seals and pistons in.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/132-1.jpg
Finished product fully reassembled.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/133-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/135-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/137-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/140-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/141-2.jpg
A few thoughts on the process:
Splitting the calipers seemed to be the easiest way to cleanly paint under/around the bolts.
The O-Rings in the center seemed completely unaffected by the first 4 years of use. I opted to use the OEM ring instead of the Z1motorsports o-rings.
I would recommend barely rebolting the two sides together prior to touching up any seams or missed spots and baking. If you try to tightly bolt the two sides together before baking the final product, the soft paint will tear or pull up right around the bolt flanges where they make contact with the painted surface. In thinking about it afterwards, the rear 2 pots didnt have this problem because the bolt has a washer and not a flange... adding a washer between the flange bolt and the soft, painted surface might eliminate this issue while the paint is still soft. Then after all touch-up and baking is done (paint is hard), the washers can be removed one at a time to avoid the calipers splitting the painted seam again.
Once you take the calipers out of the oven, DONT TOUCH THEM AT ALL. The paint is hot and INCREDIBALLY easy to peel and tear.
The decals seem to be of REALLY good quality and they were really easy to apply.
Thanks for reading!!!