Garrison
10-23-2011, 07:52 PM
Hey hey hey,
Allow me to begin with a confession...
I loathe transmission slop. I despise the feeling of the transmission flobbering its way back and forth, whenever I clutch out, or hit the gas harder than I should, or really anytime at all. So, after searching through a bunch of F/S and a few DIY forums, I learned that you can buy a used, shot trans-mount, fill it with epoxy and make yourself an equivalent of the of the Group-N trans-mount, for about half the price. I also bought a tranny mount.
Group-N mount, for reference:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC07523-1.jpg
What you will need:
1 - caulking gun
1 - tube 3M Window Weld (or your preference) ($19.99 at advance auto)
1 - roll duct-tape
This is for you guys who want to follow in my stead (you could probably even improve upon my methods.
For those of you who are curious as to why I used 3M Window Weld instead of a poured/mix epoxy (which would also work), it is because of hardness. Window Weld is about a 6a on the hardness scale; epoxy is closer to a 9a. I wish to keep NVH to a minimum. Simple right?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0190-1.jpg
So, for starters, clean the hell out of the used trans-mount. Use soap, water, degreaser and a wire brush (or similar) and really clean the junk of there. There will probably be a lot, but you should be left with a regular trans-mount with no bushings and only 2 somewhat rubbery posts. Keep those, don't cut them out.
Before:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0191-1.jpg
After:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0192-1.jpg
Dry it off, and mask the a side off with duct-tape. Begin filling the center portion with Window Weld. Go slowly to avoid air-bubbles, feel free to really pack the goop in there deeply. When you get finished, you may opt to continue, I did. I proceeded to do the other oem bushing location, the two ears covering the center support. I lined and filled both of these to the brim.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0194-1.jpg
Sides:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0195-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0196-1.jpg
Then, I went one step further and layered one last support, covering and connecting the whole collective of Window Weld. I did this twice. Afterwards, I used some cardboard to level out the Window Weld (this stuff is ridiculously hard to clean, try not to make a mess):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0198-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0197-1.jpg
Now, just wait three days for the 3M to harden before you install. For those wishing for slightly less NVH than I will have, do not 3M the ear supports, just leave them blank or use a softer material. Hope this helps you guys, and here's the link I used for this information: http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,14803.0.html
EDIT: I decided to go ahead and fill it completely, in two segments. I don't recommend this, as it won't be as sturdy, but anyways, here you go.
Front Facing:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0229-1.jpg
Rear Facing:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0228-1.jpg
Allow me to begin with a confession...
I loathe transmission slop. I despise the feeling of the transmission flobbering its way back and forth, whenever I clutch out, or hit the gas harder than I should, or really anytime at all. So, after searching through a bunch of F/S and a few DIY forums, I learned that you can buy a used, shot trans-mount, fill it with epoxy and make yourself an equivalent of the of the Group-N trans-mount, for about half the price. I also bought a tranny mount.
Group-N mount, for reference:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/DSC07523-1.jpg
What you will need:
1 - caulking gun
1 - tube 3M Window Weld (or your preference) ($19.99 at advance auto)
1 - roll duct-tape
This is for you guys who want to follow in my stead (you could probably even improve upon my methods.
For those of you who are curious as to why I used 3M Window Weld instead of a poured/mix epoxy (which would also work), it is because of hardness. Window Weld is about a 6a on the hardness scale; epoxy is closer to a 9a. I wish to keep NVH to a minimum. Simple right?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0190-1.jpg
So, for starters, clean the hell out of the used trans-mount. Use soap, water, degreaser and a wire brush (or similar) and really clean the junk of there. There will probably be a lot, but you should be left with a regular trans-mount with no bushings and only 2 somewhat rubbery posts. Keep those, don't cut them out.
Before:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0191-1.jpg
After:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0192-1.jpg
Dry it off, and mask the a side off with duct-tape. Begin filling the center portion with Window Weld. Go slowly to avoid air-bubbles, feel free to really pack the goop in there deeply. When you get finished, you may opt to continue, I did. I proceeded to do the other oem bushing location, the two ears covering the center support. I lined and filled both of these to the brim.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0194-1.jpg
Sides:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0195-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0196-1.jpg
Then, I went one step further and layered one last support, covering and connecting the whole collective of Window Weld. I did this twice. Afterwards, I used some cardboard to level out the Window Weld (this stuff is ridiculously hard to clean, try not to make a mess):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0198-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0197-1.jpg
Now, just wait three days for the 3M to harden before you install. For those wishing for slightly less NVH than I will have, do not 3M the ear supports, just leave them blank or use a softer material. Hope this helps you guys, and here's the link I used for this information: http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,14803.0.html
EDIT: I decided to go ahead and fill it completely, in two segments. I don't recommend this, as it won't be as sturdy, but anyways, here you go.
Front Facing:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0229-1.jpg
Rear Facing:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/10/IMAG0228-1.jpg