Front and rear control arm bushings for 00 BH Legacy.

[SativaMan04]

Wassup guys,

My front and rear control arm bushings are clunking. I think it's because I lowered my car. The shop wants $500 labor to replace them. Is this reasonable?

How long can I drive on them before it gets dangerous because I dont have the money to fix it right now. (well I do, but I don't want to fork out that cash right because I don't feel it is an emergency)

Also, should I get OEM bushings or whiteline?

Lastly, would it be beneficial to get JDM BH/BE control arms as well, since that are forged aluminum? Would they be a direct bolt on?

Thanks guys!

[chuckthefuk]

The labor rate is correct since they need to disassemble your control arms, lateral links and trailing arm. All of them have to have their bushings air chiseled out then the new ones pressed in. Its at least a 4 hour job if the tech is good.

DIY'ers usually torches the bushings out and then bring the parts to a shop to press them in. If your handy you can save you self lots of coin.

If you want to be stiff and responsive you should use hardened bushings (poly******) this will increase NVH. If you want stock go with stock.

Aluminum Control Arms are lighter thus reduce "unsprung weight". The JDM BE/BH will work but if you want serious camber you can use Lower aluminum front arms of GDB. = Camber arrive about 15 mm longer than is BH.

http://mkimg.bmcdn.jp/minkara/photo/000/002/801/975/2801975/p2.jpg http://mkimg.bmcdn.jp/minkara/photo/000/002/801/975/2801975/p3.jpg

-Chuck

[Dead91silvia]

Yeah, it's a LOT of work doing those type of bushings... I did a set in my dads Volvo and they are the same set up, press out, press in... Not a fun process.

Another thing you can do, depending on year the front control arms interchange over a mass of years. I just installed a 97 BG front arm on my 00 BH. Minor differences but they are the same dimensions. That could save you some bucks finding arms with good bushings.

I'm staying away from the Aluminum JDM arms. I have seen too many aluminum arms broke and I beat the living crap out of my cars... but thats just me.

[SativaMan04]

Thanks a lot chuck for the information. I researched all the terms to understand what you are talking about and I am definitely going to go with whiteline bushings. Stiffer and more repsonsive even if I do sacrafice NVH I can deal with it as long as I feel the performance upgrade from the bushings. My passengers will have to live with it. haha

I would love to get the GDB control arms if I can get a good deal on them so I can have more camber. On the other hand I can get JDM BH control arms for 40 bucks from a dismantler here VS spending 200-300 from a GDB that people are asking for.

On another note. Since they are going to disassemble my lateral links and trailing arms would it worth spending the money to get aftermarket performance ones? What are the advantages?

Thanks

[SativaMan04]

Yeah, it's a LOT of work doing those type of bushings... I did a set in my dads Volvo and they are the same set up, press out, press in... Not a fun process.

Another thing you can do, depending on year the front control arms interchange over a mass of years. I just installed a 97 BG front arm on my 00 BH. Minor differences but they are the same dimensions. That could save you some bucks finding arms with good bushings.

I'm staying away from the Aluminum JDM arms. I have seen too many aluminum arms broke and I beat the living crap out of my cars... but thats just me.


Thanks Dead for the tips on saving money, but I might just get whiteline bushings. I have a couple months to save and get this job done. Probably going do repair it first thing in january. I know the GDB control arms are forged aluminum, are the JDM BH/BE forged aluminum as well? If I go with the JDM control arms I really don't want it to break in the future and pay the 500 to get another set installed.

Thanks

[Dead91silvia]

I have seen broke/bent arms on GM's and also Porsche's... Forged or not, they are still aluminum.. a steel arm is what, $15-20 at a U-Pull it? just my 2 cents...

[chuckthefuk]

Trailing arms and lateral links are always better when they are lighter but the major difference for performance versions is the adjustability.

Usually the performance versions come with bushings already installed

http://www.iagperformance.com/images/products/suspension/alignment/KTA109/image_01_600.jpg
http://www.tuningdepot.com/ebay/images/10682-3.jpg

However since this is the multi-link rear suspension setup you need BE/BH specific parts or possibly BL/BP parts to fit them.

I have not had as much exposure to multi-link compared to the standard mcphearson strut setup.

Cheers\
-Chuck

[SativaMan04]

Thanks Guys. That is a lot to think about. It seems if I do go with the whiteline lateral links and trailing arms it would be astronomically expensive. I'm not tracking the car or anything yet, so I will probably stay away from the lateral links and trailing arms. If only money wasn't an issue... siiighh.... haha. I really just want a reliable car to get me through until I get my career and then I will pimp my car out to the MAXiMUM! For now i'll stick with the bushings and possibly the jdm control arms. I need to do more research on them and see if they are prone to breaking.