DIY: bd/bk/bg fender brace (revised)

[r3v_v3ng3]

Decided to build my own fender brace since no company that i know of makes one for the bd/bk legacy.
Sorry for the big crappy pics from my phone

Here is what i used:
2 x 4 ft 1 inch square bar
6 x 1 inch L bracket
welder
m12 bolt and nut
spray paint

also need flat head and 10mm socket for the removal of the panels
mostly going to be showing the driver side (it'll be the same on the pass side)

Remove the grill and headlight
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/wrxradiatormounted1-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo171-1.jpg

Remove the front bumper
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo151-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo161-1.jpg
there might be a couple of bolts under the radiator support (not sure)

Remove the side skirt (if you have one)
A screw is also mounted to the fender
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/sideskirt1-1.jpg

Remove the fender/fender liner (mine was missing so i don't have the step for that)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo91-1.jpg

Should look like this
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo20-1.jpg

[r3v_v3ng3]

I found this to be the strongest part to triangulate the bar since its perpendicular to another metal that is spot welded to it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo201-1.jpg

Drilled a hole through it. Just enough to barely have m12 bolt fit
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/chassishole-1.jpg

Here is the bolt head shoved in first. Then tack weld it
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo19-1.jpg

Mounting bracket
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo22-1.jpg

Measure twice (or more) cut once and weld
Used the very top and very bottom mounting bolts of the door hinge.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo3-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo18-1.jpg
pass side
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/fenderbrace-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo4-1.jpg

Don't forget to paint them so it won't get rusted
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo8-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo7-1.jpg

Here's a big fail... Started to mount the fenders and guess what? The damn side markers gets on the way :smt021. Hella forgot about them. If I make another one I would put the vertical bar more inside to the door for the clearance of the side markers :smt013

Here's the fix: depin the connector and fold the wire down and use electrical tape and whaalaa. Fits no problem
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo10-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/11/photo11-1.jpg

Put everything back in reverse and enjoy your stiffer front end :grin:

[Huffer]

Considered making a few sets and selling them?

[StatGSR]

Decided to build my own fender brace since no company that i know of makes one for the bd/bk legacy.


I was under the impression that fender braces for the impreza worked without any issue on the legacy. is that not the case? or is it only the 2 point fender braces that are interchangeable?

[r3v_v3ng3]

Considered making a few sets and selling them?


Thought about that as I was making it. Probably next week I'll make some more and post it up for sale. The hardware store doesn't really stock much of the 4ft -1 inch bar.



I was under the impression that fender braces for the impreza worked without any issue on the legacy. is that not the case? or is it only the 2 point fender braces that are interchangeable?


I don't think so. Maybe the more expensive gt spec one, but i doubt it. Not even the 2 point brace works (unless you weld a mounting points to bolt it). On the impreza's they have the 2 mounting bolt between the door hinges while the legacy's don't. It also have 2 mounting points by the frame.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t129487- ... -65-a.html (http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t129487-m4if-fender-braces-cowl-stays-shipped-your-door-65-a.html)
My brothers 94 impreza don't have those mounting points. I think they started to have it on the 97 and up impreza.

[httrdd]

Very cool!

[r3v_v3ng3]

Thanks, I'm going to be making an x brace for the rear and also do a DIY on it

[httrdd]

Wow what are your plans for the car? You welding yourself? This looks like you are building a track monster.

[r3v_v3ng3]

Wow what are your plans for the car? You welding yourself? This looks like you are building a track monster.


Nothing just daily driver/spirited driving :grin: . Yes i'm welding it myself. We'll with the flares it requires the chassis to be stiffer. When I slapped them on with just the coilover and strut bars, the flares kept popping off on hard turns or going over the bump. The tribeca front and perrin rear anti-sway bar helped out alot but i wanted to tighten the chasis more. Now that the front is stiffer, I want to balance out the rear with an x brace.

[httrdd]

Oh ok i see. Another reason why i want to weld the fenders on. Looks like i need to do more track mods like this.

[Wiscon_Mark]

You should definitely make some. I bet you'd make decent money doing this.

[r3v_v3ng3]

Oh ok i see. Another reason why i want to weld the fenders on. Looks like i need to do more track mods like this.

You can weld it but I prefer bolt on. That way you can return it back to stock if you want.



You should definitely make some. I bet you'd make decent money doing this.

Yeah but I need to think of a way to have the other mounting point bolted. It requires someone to spot weld a bolt/stud or nut and many people don't own a welder. I need to go to hardware store to see what I can use.

[r3v_v3ng3]

Driving impression:

Holy shit! Right away I can feel the front end being stiffer (this is with a strut bar and tribeca fsb and coilover).
Corners amazing
I also notice my transmission shifts better with a worn synchros (2nd & 3rd)
I can feel the car is more planted on the road to where it accelerate better
I do feel the road a little bit more since its less flex
No additional noise

[Wiscon_Mark]

Do you have to weld the stud on? I could see a bolt/locking nut combo working OK. Or is it that cramped up in there?

I'm assuming you mean the bolt by the strut tower...

[r3v_v3ng3]

Ooooops.... It said internal error twice so i did it again :shock:


yeah i welded a bolt on. Its pretty cramp in there, only thing i can think of is to make a big enough hole close to where to mount it so you can sneak a nut/bolt in there. It will be the bolt on the fender frame where i had the arrow.

[ubar legacy]

What fender flares are those??

[Baddog]

IF you figure out a way to make the fender braces work without a welder let me know. And an Xbrace I would be interested in both.

[r3v_v3ng3]

IF you figure out a way to make the fender braces work without a welder let me know. And an Xbrace I would be interested in both.



Will do, but for now the only thing i can think of for the front is making a big enough hole right next to where you mount the brace and sneak a bolt in there.

As far as the x brace, I stared at the rear for awhile and look for ways to make it work with the stock folding rear seats but it will defeat the purpose of the folding seats and it doesn't have that much clearance like the impreza/wrx. But since I have an RS seats, it actually free up some space and it doesn't fold down. Hopefully I'll have time this sunday to fab one up

[Alcology]

I have a couple questions about this brace. Would aluminum work just as well? And why did you weld on tabs rather cut the square tube at an angle leaving room for the bolt to go in? I don't want to knock your work, I think it's some great diy actually, but I am thinking of doing this for myself and I would not weld on the tabs.

[r3v_v3ng3]

I have a couple questions about this brace. Would aluminum work just as well? And why did you weld on tabs rather cut the square tube at an angle leaving room for the bolt to go in? I don't want to knock your work, I think it's some great diy actually, but I am thinking of doing this for myself and I would not weld on the tabs.


Aluminum would work just as well. I only had a mig welder so I had to settle on the mild steel. I weld the tabs because I've seen other setup like that before (ultra racing brace) but your suggestion would be awesome. The only thing I see on using the tabs for better clearance on the frame. If your going straight bar, the frame might have curves and might not sit straight.

Its just a rough guide on making one, I'm pretty sure there's better design out there. I just stared at one and said I can make that lol. Post up pic if you do one, Maybe you have a better revision/design

[Alcology]

The welder is the limiting factor for me as well, but I could get a different spool to do aluminum. I see what you mean about the clearance issue. I'll give it a shot and post it up

[r3v_v3ng3]

Cool, post it when done. Make sure to compensate for the jdm sidemarker (if you have one).

[Grafton]

IF you figure out a way to make the fender braces work without a welder let me know. And an Xbrace I would be interested in both.



Will do, but for now the only thing i can think of for the front is making a big enough hole right next to where you mount the brace and sneak a bolt in there.

As far as the x brace, I stared at the rear for awhile and look for ways to make it work with the stock folding rear seats but it will defeat the purpose of the folding seats and it doesn't have that much clearance like the impreza/wrx. But since I have an RS seats, it actually free up some space and it doesn't fold down. Hopefully I'll have time this sunday to fab one up

i mentioned this in my rides thread but never expanded on it, instead of welding the bolt to act as a stud you drill the hole next to the one you used and insert one of these:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/04/71961958large-1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/71961958large.jpg/)

[Alcology]

I just started making my own fender braces using the tube stock only with the ends cut at 45deg where they meet a bolt. A hole gets drilled through the flat spot inside the tube for the bolt. Not easy! It's been fun learning but man I wish I was better at it. Practice at least. I tried using that spot weld that you did, but I had to abandon that idea because of the perpendicular wall inside. I ended up using that free hole behind the spot weld. I'm using 5/16" bolts (1 inch and 3/4 inch to test which is better) with 1.5in washers coming through the inside of the wall there. I snipped open the smaller oblong hole near the one I'm using to get the bolt inside the wall. I then used twine [fishing line would've been best] to go in the hole for the bolt then out one of the wider holes to thread the washer on then tied it around the bolt and pulled it all through. Sounds crazy, but it worked first try! I think that area is plenty strong as I can push on it and it doesn't flex but the whole car rocks. By pulling up on the steel tube I was able to freeze the bolt while I tightened the nut. I'll end up using some locktite when it goes on permanently. I was not a fan of the spot welds on the fenders. I didn't drill them out, but used a paint scraper as a chisel that I've used for the same thing on another car. Worked better before! Thinner metal and not much support led to some minor bending that I have to bend back.

[Alcology]

I got one done. Not the prettiest thing in the world. I have a gap issue that I'll use some sort of spacer to solve. I also may have stripped the bolt hole on the top door hinge bracket. Some little things to work out, but I like how it came out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/th_brace_on-1.jpg (http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/alcology/97%20Legacy/Fender%20Brace%20Project/?action=view&current=brace_on.jpg)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/th_bracegap-1.jpg (http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/alcology/97%20Legacy/Fender%20Brace%20Project/?action=view&current=bracegap.jpg)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/th_brace_bolt-1.jpg (http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/alcology/97%20Legacy/Fender%20Brace%20Project/?action=view&current=brace_bolt.jpg)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/th_panel-1.jpg (http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/alcology/97%20Legacy/Fender%20Brace%20Project/?action=view&current=panel.jpg)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/th_brace-1.jpg (http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/alcology/97%20Legacy/Fender%20Brace%20Project/?action=view&current=brace.jpg)

[Alcology]

Just finished the other side. I had flat black, so flat blaaaaaaaaack it is.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/th_painted-1.jpg (http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu15/alcology/97%20Legacy/Fender%20Brace%20Project/?action=view&current=painted.jpg)

[r3v_v3ng3]

I just started making my own fender braces using the tube stock only with the ends cut at 45deg where they meet a bolt. A hole gets drilled through the flat spot inside the tube for the bolt. Not easy! It's been fun learning but man I wish I was better at it. Practice at least. I tried using that spot weld that you did, but I had to abandon that idea because of the perpendicular wall inside. I ended up using that free hole behind the spot weld. I'm using 5/16" bolts (1 inch and 3/4 inch to test which is better) with 1.5in washers coming through the inside of the wall there. I snipped open the smaller oblong hole near the one I'm using to get the bolt inside the wall. I then used twine [fishing line would've been best] to go in the hole for the bolt then out one of the wider holes to thread the washer on then tied it around the bolt and pulled it all through. Sounds crazy, but it worked first try! I think that area is plenty strong as I can push on it and it doesn't flex but the whole car rocks. By pulling up on the steel tube I was able to freeze the bolt while I tightened the nut. I'll end up using some locktite when it goes on permanently. I was not a fan of the spot welds on the fenders. I didn't drill them out, but used a paint scraper as a chisel that I've used for the same thing on another car. Worked better before! Thinner metal and not much support led to some minor bending that I have to bend back.


I got one done. Not the prettiest thing in the world. I have a gap issue that I'll use some sort of spacer to solve. I also may have stripped the bolt hole on the top door hinge bracket. Some little things to work out, but I like how it came out.


Finally someone else made one :smt026 .
I got a couple of things to point out about yours. Don't mean to offend you but here are my tips.

-You were probably using a wrong bit when you were opening up the spot weld. I think I used titanium stepped bit. The fender brace is to reduce the vertical flex. Its going to be up and down motion so pushing on that metal is not a good way to test it although it may be sturdy enough for it. Its thin so in my opinion the perpendicular spot weld area is still the best strongest place to have the 3rd mounting hole.

Here is why you want to use and weld L bracket on the ends.
-Gap issue... I first bolted the L brackets to their mounting area. Then I measured/cut the metal and tack welded it to the L bracket. I did the top door hinge bolt to the fender frame bolt. Then the bottom door hinge bolt to the metal close to the fender frame. Then finish it off by joining the top and bottom door hinges metal. So you won't have any problem taking it out and weld it and bolt it back on. Since the bar is straight and the area your bolting it in is not, you'll have gap problem. The L bracket will give you slight clearance by bumping it out. Its also advisable to use a slightly longer door hinge bolt.
-Strength. Your closing off an opening so it'll be stronger
- You will also keeping debris and such (specially water) from going inside the metal and have it rust

Overall, good job and I'm glad you were thinking about the side marker and didn't made the mistake I did. :smt023

[Alcology]

Good points! I have noticed that it will be tough to seal off the inside. I guess I could make plugs and weld those in. The only gap issue is where that bolt gets pulled through, there is just enough clearance because of the tubes resting on the hinge brackets. Longer bolts will be a good idea. If I do weld on tabs, I might make the tabs wide enough to use both hinge bolts and also find another spot to get a bolt in on the unibody. I didn't use a bit for the spot welds, I basically just chiseled them out. I had that method work really well on an amc eagle's fenders, but not so much this time as the metal wasn't supported. A stepped bit would've been a much better idea. I didn't think that driving with them would make a huge difference but it's instantly noticeable, everything is a lot tighter. Thanks for the tips!

ALSO: with the permission of r3v_v3ng3, I will be making sets for sale. If you have any interest, please PM me.

[r3v_v3ng3]

Made another set for my BG and this time I revised it so it will clear the jdm side markers. I also cut/rewelded the one for my BD to accomodate the side markers. You can see from the red ones where the side marker was hitting.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/08/5360B8CC95D34EF09FBA8FF4AF16C49721900000-1.jpg (http://s652.photobucket.com/user/r3v_v3ng3/media/5360B8CC-95D3-4EF0-9FBA-8FF4AF16C497-219-0000000A51E0ABE4_zps1e8a62d6.jpg.html)