View Full Version : I want to build a motor... help me decide whats best!!!
harrymaneuvers
12-09-2011, 10:06 AM
Ok so here is the scenario:
I have my 99 legacy sedan with a 2.2L.
I recently came to the conclusion that my 2.2L has Rod Knock.
So now I want to start building a back up motor in case this one decides to go.
I want to explore all of my options. So far... it seems like my options are:
- Get a 2.5 block and build a frankenmotor
- Get a new EJ22 and build it out
- Get a USDM WRX engine and build it out.
- I might be dreaming on this but possibly get a JDM STI Version ???? full front clip from a GC or bugeye and sell all the body parts to make up for the cost of the engine.
Here is what I want to have an open discussion on and figure out; which would be the cheapest? Most reliable? easiest? realistic?
Now throw in the fact that my car is an auto... :smt017
Huffer
12-09-2011, 10:14 AM
Cheapest and most reliable: Replacement EJ22 engine
Easiest: Replacement EJ22 engine
Realistic: Depends on how deep your pockets are!
harrymaneuvers
12-09-2011, 10:18 AM
Well I would say that if the build takes me over 4 months... then I would say that I probably have up to $2000 at my disposal.
Reason
12-09-2011, 10:20 AM
$2k isn't bad If you already have the block and heads you are going to use.
chuckthefuk
12-09-2011, 10:52 AM
If you buy a v.5/6/7/8 font clip the max you will make on hood/bumper/fenders/lights/grille is $600.. unless you found a fool.
The clip is the easiest way to get a turbo car in one weekend.
Now when you say "build it out" what exactly does that mean?
1) Full rebuild from a machine shop?
2) Rebuild + upgrades (cams, hg, pulleys)
3) Rebuild + upgrades + port n polish + ?
If you want reliability. rebuild a EJ22E
If you want cheap.. buy a used EJ22E
If you want realistic .. buy a used EJ22E.
If you have deep pockets.. buy the clip..
-Chuck
Garrison
12-09-2011, 10:56 AM
2k would get you a freaking nasty engine.
99' 2.2 bottom end, 98 DOHC 2.5 heads, vf39 turbo, stock (or ebay) up/down pipe. crank it to 15 psi and enjoy reliable sti power.
Oh, also, Greddy Emanage.
2k is a LOT for oem subaru stuff.
I concur with what has been said above.
EDIT: Your 99' engine code is EJ22H, not E.
Reason
12-09-2011, 10:58 AM
If you have deep pockets buy a stroker motor from Cosworth.
chuckthefuk
12-09-2011, 11:15 AM
EDIT: Your 99' engine code is EJ22H, not E.
What the hell is an EJ22H?
Facts or GTFO :-p
Garrison
12-09-2011, 12:10 PM
EDIT: Your 99' engine code is EJ22H, not E.
What the hell is an EJ22H?
Facts or GTFO :-p
Well F-doodles. Now I can't find the link (and to be perfectly candid, it make have been Wikipedia; which is inherently untrustworthy) but I could have sworn that in 1999 when subaru redesigned the 2.2 to use WRX crank and rods, it was deemed the EJ22H, not the EJ22E (which I understand to have ended in 1998).
Perhaps I'm mistaken. It is quite possible.
Reason
12-09-2011, 12:47 PM
Iirc there's an EJ22E and EJ22EZ which is the Cali spec. Wikipedia isn't that reliable...
harrymaneuvers
12-09-2011, 02:01 PM
Hahah well deep pockets is a thin line between building out the subaru to a sick car or stepping up to a 3rd gen h6 outback sedan, fxt, or lgt.
I would say that line is about $2750...
At that point... I would rather just spend another $3k and find the right deal on a new toy.
I dont want to give up on the leggy though.
So I really like the idea of the frankenmotor with a turbo ect. Especially because my lady and I already had plans on upgrading the WRX to a VF39 or 16g with all the other goodies. That would leave a TD-04 for me to throw on the frankenmotor... would that be big enough?
But am I wrong or did you get that backwards... isnt it supposed to be a 2.5 block with EJ22 heads?!?! I kinda liked that Idea because my 2.2 heads should still be fine if I just throw a new block under them.
So I am leaning towards a budget frankenmotor build...
Garrison
12-09-2011, 02:36 PM
No, what you're talking about with a 2.5 block and 2.2 heads gets you a high compression engine, which is exactly what you don't want to add a turbo to. Buy a 2.5 dohc with a blown piston or something to that effect (cheap, in other words) yank off the heads and manifold, send or request a spare 2.2 block to lordflashheart and have him build you a steller block. Mate the two and source your turbo parts. Install and tune.
chuckthefuk
12-09-2011, 04:26 PM
Garrison you are getting confused with the EJ20H..
"EJ22 = just the first 4-digits
EJ22E = all USDM N/A 2.2-liter engines from 90-96
EJ22EZ = all USDM 2.2-liter engines from 97-98 (9.7:1 CR, solid lifters, single-port exhaust, but still Phase I)
EJ222/EJ223 = USDM 2.2-liter engines from 99-01 (same stuff as EZ, but Phase II)
There's some weirdness in the transition from E to EZ in 96, as some 96 2.2 owners report having solid lifters and single-port exhaust.
EJ22T = 91-94 USDM Legacy Turbo engine
EJ22G = Impreza 22B engine
EJ22T is NOT the same as EJ22G, despite what the Nasioc clowns tell you."
-DerFahrer (ultimatesubaru.org)
So now that being said what the hell motor is the EJ22 dual port heads from? I know 95' Impreza but engine code?
harrymaneuvers
12-09-2011, 05:11 PM
Ok so if I decided to go with a 2.2L with 2.5 heads... then that would be a nice turbo build but would a td04 be enough?
If I wanted to go even more extreme with this direction could I source a higher end 2.5? Like a EJ257? What would be the next level if I went that direction.
If I went with the high compression build, it sounds like it would be cheaper and quicker... I am sure the performance would be somewhere between the first option build (mentioned above) and my standard EJ22... but would it compare to a completely stock wrx?
I would prefer to keep gas mileage close to where it is at currently... would the 2.5 block with ej22 heads be the way to go?
Baddog
12-10-2011, 03:05 AM
TD04 is hardly enough for the small USDM EJ20 as it is. I think a bigger turbo would be better. But it really comes down to what you can afford and what you want out of it.
Yamazaki
12-10-2011, 05:56 AM
Garrison you are getting confused with the EJ20H..
"EJ22 = just the first 4-digits
EJ22E = all USDM N/A 2.2-liter engines from 90-96
EJ22EZ = all USDM 2.2-liter engines from 97-98 (9.7:1 CR, solid lifters, single-port exhaust, but still Phase I)
EJ222/EJ223 = USDM 2.2-liter engines from 99-01 (same stuff as EZ, but Phase II)
There's some weirdness in the transition from E to EZ in 96, as some 96 2.2 owners report having solid lifters and single-port exhaust.
EJ22T = 91-94 USDM Legacy Turbo engine
EJ22G = Impreza 22B engine
EJ22T is NOT the same as EJ22G, despite what the Nasioc clowns tell you."
-DerFahrer (ultimatesubaru.org)
So now that being said what the hell motor is the EJ22 dual port heads from? I know 95' Impreza but engine code?
You know, I'm actually skeptical that the "EJ22T" is actually that. Does somebody with a BC/BF turbo have a picture of their ID plate? Same with the "EJ22EZ". I'd like to see the plates.
Reason
12-10-2011, 08:41 AM
I have a 22EZ, that's what the dealers label it when I ordered parts in the past. The EZ is just the Cali spec.
Reason
12-10-2011, 08:45 AM
And from what I know there's no such thing as a EJ22T. From what I gather is a "EJ22T" is just a EJ22E with forged internals and what not , but the block is the same.....
chuckthefuk
12-10-2011, 10:59 AM
OK found some info.
"The turbo EJ22 engine had a fully closed deck design which provided support for the cylinder walls and allowed a generous amount of boost. Also the turbo EJ22 had oil squirters to help with lubrication. The naturally aspirated EJ22 had an open deck design which is not the best for forced induction." - LGT.com
From what I can find the Turbo EJ22 motors are branded EJ22K non-intercooled.
-Chuck
Garrison
12-10-2011, 01:47 PM
You're correct then, Chuck. I was mistaken on the engine codes. What I want to impress though is that the 99' EJ222 bottom end will mate to the 98 EJ25D (DOHC) heads and will produce a compression ratio of about 8.5-9.0; which is perfect for a turbo car. Also, the EJ222 does share crank and rods with the WRX, albeit with bigger pistons.
I know this because I was informed of it by a man who builds these engines for a living, who was kind enough to explain it in baby-speak for me when I inquired about this very project:
no no no no... custom pistons not required for you build.
so for a 99 EJ22 you can find them for around 100 or less. i got mine for $30 in a junk yard.
now like i said, the 2.2 crank and rods has been proven at 400hp. the STI rods and crank have been proven to 600HP. its the pisons that are the weak point. sti and 2.2. the sti pistons break at stock levels on stock tunes quite regularly. infact here in utah the district service manager wont warratee a the #4 sti piston because of it.
also you dont need a 2.5 crank in a 2.2. infact i dont recomend it. i would even discourage it.
to re-machine the 2.5 to 4 bolt (center thrust) to accept a rear thrust would be more than just buying an used STi short block.
you dont need custom pistons. a bone stock 2.2 short block with 2.5 heads will take you to roughly the same amount of power as the sti before the pistons give.
stock pistons give out on the sti around 350hp
stock pistons on the EJ20/22 is also around 350hp.
(this comes down to tune)
the forged pistons are roughly the same price.
your over thinking all this.
EJ257 short block:
pros, good low end power, lots of aftermarket support, stock crank and rods are good for 500-600hp
(way more power than your stock gear box can handle)
the cons. expensive to buy, expensive to modify, expensive to replace if it breaks. weak pistons, due to the large bore, they have a greater chance of head gasket issues. pistons limit to around 350 hp.
EJ22
pros: cheap to buy, cheap to replace. uses a 2.0 turbo crank and rods, so there is a large aftermarket support, smaller bore than the 2.5 reduces the risk of head gaskets, the potential power is greater than the 2.0 wrx due to the .2 liters more displacement.
cons: oem crank, and rods limit to roughly 400 but more than enough power to break your gearbox)
stock pistons give limit is around 350 chp max.
your gear box is a big limiting factor. both motors will have no problem ripping it to pieces.
the MOST power i have ever heard anyone running thu it is 300 Crank hp. and he breaks them about ever 10,000 miles.
250, 275 crank hp is the most i would run on the gear box. and if you upgrade the trans you gotta upgrade the trannys then you gotta upgrade, clutch, axles, differentials.
here is what i really think you should do. get a 99 ej22, put your 2.5 heads on, a TD05 90 degree, 440CC injectors, get a good tune and push it to 275, 300 if your brave. call it good till you can afford a gearbox, after you upgrade the gearbox, trade up for some 650cc injectors, get A GOOD TUNE. and see if those pistons will last at 400HP
you will find motor builds get expensive quick. trust me on that.
the EJ22 is best bang for your buck. hands down.
if you do go with EJ25 do not use stock pistons. they are junk.
you want something forged.
Yamazaki
12-10-2011, 05:14 PM
I'd still like to see ID plates. For the same reason I bought a bunch of factory manuals here. I won't accept information unless I see it directly from Subaru itself. That may seem unreasonable, but I try to be a perfectionist.
Reason
12-11-2011, 08:53 PM
I'd still like to see ID plates. For the same reason I bought a bunch of factory manuals here. I won't accept information unless I see it directly from Subaru itself. That may seem unreasonable, but I try to be a perfectionist.
Theres too much hear say on the web, for example my info was from a few places. Direct info from the manufacturer is best.
anothernord
12-11-2011, 09:12 PM
Open vs closed deck is nearly irrelevant except in very high horsepower applications (400whp+). It's all about the moving pieces.
harrymaneuvers
12-11-2011, 10:22 PM
Ok so now that I have had a chance to think about this... I would really like to make this a budget build... essentially, I want to walk that like I mentioned before between getting a new car and keeping this one.
I think if I can keep it to $2500 and give me more power than what I had before... I will be happy until I get a new car, at which point I will decide the fate of the legacy.
So am I better off trying to put together a frankenmotor or build out a EJ22 that I find for cheap?
Or a combination of both.
harrymaneuvers
12-13-2011, 03:38 PM
Still looking for some more help on this one. I have decided that I am not going to build a turbo motor as those can get expensive quick... So realistically I just want something that is cheap, reliable and hopefully a noticeable improvement in power.
Basically I need to narrow down my choice to one of the three options:
EJ22 - Delta cams... what else could I do without breaking the bank that would be a noticable improvement over my stock EJ22. Keep in mind that this engine will most likely be out and on a stand for a few months before I actually install it.
EJ25 block with EJ22 heads - How would the power compare to the EJ22 mentioned above? Could I get the same performance without having to spend money on performance/upgraded parts?
EJ22 block with EJ25 heads - would this actually require me to turbo the car? Or could I run NA for as along as I wanted and then add a turbo later?
With rod knock... I am guessing that my current EJ22 block is useless without being rebuilt... What about my EJ22 heads?
WHat is everyones suggestion on how to make the most of my current EJ22? Just looking for ideas as to what parts off of it I could reuse or if it is even worth rebuilding once it is out of the car. Maybe throw it in my buddies dune buggie project?
httrdd
12-13-2011, 03:40 PM
Dude take that 2500 and buy a parts car. Either wrx or whatever you want to swap in. Sell the parts and make your money plus some back.
harrymaneuvers
12-13-2011, 03:46 PM
Man I wish!!! If I didnt live in an apartment complex that would be exactly what I would do... A little unrealistic in the current living situation though I do have a one car garage :)
I watch things like this come and go all day... if I had the room I would jump all over it!!!
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2740130624.html
chuckthefuk
12-13-2011, 03:56 PM
If you are committed you can purchase a wrecked WRX.. strip it in one night with 1 or 2 friends and have it neetly packed away in boxes and still have room to park your car.
I've done it.. With motivation you can also.
-Chuck
httrdd
12-13-2011, 04:06 PM
Or rent a outdoor storage spot like i did...do. i would not want a stripped car in my driveway. Lol.
harrymaneuvers
12-13-2011, 04:11 PM
True dat!
I know the local I-club guys would be more than game to do a one nighter... Then the question becomes whether or not to swap the tranny out too and go 5 speed... I would be inclined to say "yes" considering my tranny has 235k on it.
Man it is tempting... SO tempting...
But lets say I do that... and I am left with an engine/tranny... I havent done any reading up on a wrx swap into a second gen... I am assuming the wiring is a pain in the ass... any short way around it?
This level of a swap is now breaking into the realm of more than $2500 even if I score the engine/tranny for less than $1000...
If I dont modify the wrx engine (CAI, catless UP/DOWN ect) would I still need tuning or not until I started modding the wrx engine (like with my ladies wagon)
And at the last comment... yea I live in a VERY ritzy upscale apartment complex... I dont think I would last more than 2 nights without getting a notice.
Garrison
12-13-2011, 07:45 PM
You don't need to tune a stock wrx engine. The wiring is not a short cut kind of thing. If you're going to do a swap, send off your wiring harness along with a wrx harness and be done with it. Unfortunately, you're quite correct. Not a cheap option.
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 12:05 AM
I know that a stock WRX engine in a WRX body doesnt need to be tuned but I wasnt sure if the difference between the legacy shell/drivetrain and the wrx shell/drivetrain would require tuning.
How much realistically would it cost to send off the wiring harnesses?
Garrison
12-14-2011, 10:44 AM
I think Iwire and ECS do their harness mergers for around $800 or $900 bucks. But then it's plug and play, and it's the hardest part of the entire swap.
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 01:57 PM
Just checked...
http://www.eastcoastswappers.com/rates.php
ECS is only $600 for a swap... Hmm... actually not too bad... If I could get the drivetrain for $1000, $600 for the harness, and another $1000 for odds and ends... I would say that is the route I will go.
What else would need to be modified on my legacy besides the wiring? Any cutting or welding to get the turbo system in?
Also, how do you think a completely stock WRX engine in the legacy compares to a EJ22 with cams and other goodies powerwise?
anothernord
12-14-2011, 02:04 PM
Legacy=Impreza=WRX. The only difference I can think of is the radiator hoses, and the length of the exhaust, as far as swaps are concerned.
WRX = 224HP. That number goes way up with simple mods like exhaust and tune. Not to mention stock reliability and drive ability.
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 02:21 PM
I just got done speaking with Paul at FW motorsports... he was basically saying that the performance gains from an NA EJ22 with cams will be minimal...
Can you shed some light on what kind of power I could expect if I went that route? I am thinking that the WRX swap is the way to go... then I have two EJ20's to interchange parts from/to...
chuckthefuk
12-14-2011, 02:29 PM
You can not compare forced induction to naturally aspirated..
Auto-X guys love N/A since there is no lag and high RPM FTW.
Time-Attack guys love Turbo.
Its preference.. If you want to go FAST.. hit High Numbers... be exposed to a plethora of modifacations then go with the WRX or homemade turbo kit.
If you are on a budget and cant justify 3000+ then go with a rebuild and some cams and bolt ons... just don't expect epic gains.
No matter how many items we can list and tell you etimated costs you will find out in the end that the "odds & ends" will be over $1000 depending if you do it right the first time kid of mentality.
This thread is almost 3 pages long.. The last thing I will say is "You have to pay.. to play"
-Chuck
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 02:45 PM
I understand the potential for all of these projects to run over costs.
I guess what I dont want is a project that will run over budget and still leave me with something comparable to just swapping in a bone stock $500 EJ22.
What "bolt-ons" would you be referring to for the EJ22... besides Cams what else would beef up its performance?
chuckthefuk
12-14-2011, 03:01 PM
- Thermal Spacers
- Lightweight pulleys
- Intake / Exhaust / Hi-Flow Cat
- EGR delete
- Injector upgrade
- plugs / wires / MSD ignition
- water-meth injection
- Piggyback with a legit TUNE!!!!!
- Hi-flow oil pump
- KillerBee oil pickup
...
More serious business
- Head Gasket upgrade
- Cams + Cam Gears
- Titanium Valves (custom made!)
- Upgraded Collets/Lockers (for the valves)
- Port n' Polish heads
- MORE TUNE
Modding a N/A engine is useless without a proper tune. This will cost well into the $5000...
To each their own.. save and play.
-Chuck
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 03:13 PM
^This is what I needed to know. I would love something unique and powerful but for $5000+ I would rather get a new car.
I mean really my two options are to just throw another stock EJ22 in there or do something more along the lines of a $2500 upgrade. It sounds like the easiest thing to do for an upgrade is to source a WRX engine/tranny and do a straight swap keeping it as much OEM as possible. Then, if needed, I can mod and build on that platform like I did with the WRX wagon. Considering I am about to get an open source tune on the WRX wagon... I will have a Cobb AP V2 ready to go.
If you were in my position guys... what would you do?
chuckthefuk
12-14-2011, 03:19 PM
Save and go turbo.. its like drugs.. .. costs just as much once your addicted and damn hard to stop :-D
Subachouli
12-14-2011, 03:39 PM
I just finished a WRX EJ205 swap into my 98 Legacy GT wagon. Like, just finished it a week or two ago. Here is a copy of my post on the NASIOC Successful Converson Thread
"Notes: (I'll add to this)
-I used the stock LGT 5 speed transmission. I used a clutch disc, plate and flywheel from a 2006 WRX
-Wiring was done by iWire. Brand new OEM bulkhead harness from the Legacy, complete donor chassis harness
-Taking the dashboard out sucks. Label everything. Every screw, every connector. You don't want to put it all back together and realize you missed a plug. Twice.
-I used a first generation Legacy turbo crossmember. The engine will sit higher than it does in the WRX engine bay. This is ok. The hood closes.
-I used the factory Legacy throttle cable (DOHC) and bent the WRX throttle cable bracket slightly so the cable would reach.
-I did not hook up the cruise control. Hopefully I wont miss it. The engine bay is cluttered enough.
-Relocate the PS pump reservoir. Easy enough.
-To retain the factory MAFS and airbox, I used the lower half of the Legacy air box, and the upper half of the WRX box.
-I had originally tried the "hack" method for the coolant lines. I cut the spring out of the radiator cap, added a second seal, but could never get it to completely seal. I ended up deleting the waterbox by the intake manifold. Just run a section of hose from the turbo water pipe to the crossover pipe, and set the radiator up like normal. So far so good.
-Invest in plenty of zip ties and assorted sizes and lengths of rubber hoses and clamps.
-The engine bay gets tight. A set of slim fans might help with clearance up front.
-My TMIC fit without any modification to the engine bay. However, to use the duct for the hood scoop, you'll need to cut and drill to get it to fit.
-Burp your cooling system afterwards. Theres a step by step procedure somewhere on a forum.
-I haven't installed the AC condensor and lines yet. I have all winter to procrastinate."
My advice? If you want to do the swap, GET A COMPLETE DONOR. That is 100% the BEST way to do it. There are a lot of hidden issues you'll need to resolve on the fly, most of which were never mentioned by anyone I asked about the swap. It wasn't difficult, but it took much longer than anticipated and cost quite a bit more as well.
Another note.. if you get a used engine for a donor.. rebuild it first. You don't want the trouble and downtime of getting the conversion done, only to have to tear the thing back apart to do valve cover gaskets or a timing belt.
Lastly.. if I could do it all again, I would've sold my GT and its (IMO) worthless DOHC, bought a clean 99 2.2L model, and swapped the bottom end with a SOHC 2.5, cams, equal length headers, IM spacers. Something around 200HP with a flat torque curve. The swapped car goes like hell, and its fun, but it drives just like my WRX so it got boring quick.
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 05:01 PM
Oh shit... here we go!!! The plot thickens!!!!
I feel as though I would get bored with the OEM wrx engine too... the hunger for more power is addictive especially with turbo lag.
Are you the same Jim that I sold the JDM bumper too on NASIOC?!?!?!
I mean shoot, throwing a cheap 2.5 block with some cams and having a 200 horse NA engine seems fine by me! I feel as though I would have more fun with the low end power anyways.
PM me please so we can talk more about "what you would have done"
Subachouli
12-14-2011, 05:27 PM
We'll take it to PM then =)
Reason
12-14-2011, 08:57 PM
Do a mild build with what you have, save up for another car. If you plan on keeping your car for a long time then do a wrx swap. If it's just to hold you over do a high compression build to hold you over till you can afford a new car.
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 09:26 PM
Yup!!!
That is what I am going to do. Like I said earlier... I got tired of the stock wrx power pretty quick... considering how much money my lady has put into her WRX to get it where it is... I am ok with doing that but I would rather it be on a LGT or FXT.
And I love it when I have been driving the wrx for a while and then I drive the legacy... It feels WAY pep-ier and quicker from 0-30.
Top end power is what gets me speeding tickets. Low end power/torque gets me a fun city DD.
High compression build it is.
Now is there any real reason to go to the lengths that Garrison did (FULL rebuild of EJ25 block and EJ22 heads) other than being a perfectionist?
Can I try to do a SUPER budget build and just source a low mileage 2.5 block with 95 EJ22 heads?
Now lets start building a parts list.
EJ25 block
95 EJ22 heads
head gaskets
Delta cams
All replaceable timing belt items
EL headers
Neon/MSG coil
Injectors (?)
_________
_________
Reason
12-14-2011, 10:19 PM
Cometic EJ22/25 hybrid headgasket
I'll have to give you the short version of the list for my high comp build. Look at Graftons build too while you are at it.
harrymaneuvers
12-14-2011, 10:50 PM
OOPS I meant grafton not garrison... hahah
Yep add that to the list...
EJ25 block
95 EJ22 heads
head gaskets
Delta cams
All replaceable timing belt items
EL headers
Neon/MSG coil
Injectors (?)
Cometic EJ22/25 hybrid headgasket
________
Edit: do 90-95 EJ22 heads work??? they seem to be all over Ebay and they dont distinguish between dual or single port exhaust.
nikolaus.conrad
12-16-2011, 12:23 AM
I think first Gen Leggys with the EJ22 were dual port heads. There's a 92 Leggy in my local yard with dual ports :smt023
Cubdriver
12-16-2011, 05:47 PM
Hey Guys,
My kid and I are in the middle of turboing my hi 2.2 legacy wagon.
I have a 98' 2.2 block and have located some 97-98 EJ25D heads, here are my questions...
1. Does the 2.5 timing belt hook right up?
2. I am going to replace the water pump, will the stock 2.2 one clear my ej250-257 headers?
3. I need 2.5 timing/cam covers, right?
4. Will the 2.2 timing belt guides work, i know i should replace with fresh bearings.
5 Should i use 2.5 turbo head gaskets?
Just thought i should clear this up now before I go head on into my next road block.
Thanks,
Hank
Garrison
12-16-2011, 09:00 PM
2. No, you need the turbo waterpump.
5. Yup, ej257 gaskets
harrymaneuvers
12-17-2011, 11:52 AM
So Garrison... I will ask you...
What would you do to save money on your build if you could do it again? What about things that you might have over-did?
Still looking for the answer as to if 90-94 2.2 heads work.. ebay has them from 90-95 with no distinguishing
Garrison
12-17-2011, 12:34 PM
To save money? Damn dude I thought mine was pretty budget, haha. I could tell you the way that you could make it more cost efficient per HP though...
Get engine management up front, like an SAFC or Emanage. That way you can change your injectors and bump up the boost. Also, eBay DP work just fine, as do oem subaru parts. The real question you need to ask yourself is what are your power goals and how do you want the turbo to behave? Low rpm torque? Td04. All around goodness? VF39 or Td05 16g-18g. I think on a 2.2 the Td04 would work alright, especially for a daily driver, but the VF39 is still better in every other respect.
The main way to save money is by smart planning and smarter shopping.
Cheap
Fast
Quality
Choose 2.
Reason
12-17-2011, 12:46 PM
Turbo? Thought you are doing high compression? You should establish which direction you are going with so everyone is on the same page so people can give you the best advice they can.
nikolaus.conrad
12-17-2011, 12:48 PM
This piggyback looks kind of generic but do you think it'll work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300623693904?ss ... 1946wt_933 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300623693904?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1946wt_933)
Also very curious about the 1990-1994 heads working on a later model 2.2, If so I'm scooping these up for my build! =]
Edit: Reason- High compression turbo??????? Needz MOAR power!!!!!!! :smt029 jk lol
Garrison
12-17-2011, 01:06 PM
Stay away from those types of controllers. You want something name brand and well known. This is your engine mate, one of the most integral parts of the entire car.
This is what you're looking for:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230716595382?ss ... 500wt_1202 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/230716595382?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1202)
OR this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Greddy-Emanage- ... 500wt_1202 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Greddy-Emanage-Blue-/250954155145?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6e088489#ht_500wt_1202)
nikolaus.conrad
12-17-2011, 01:14 PM
Gotcha! The exact reason why I asked! Thanks dude =]
harrymaneuvers
12-17-2011, 02:32 PM
Wow... threadjack!!! JK... but not really.
Just to set the record straight... I AM DOING A HIGH COMPRESSION BUILD! I already have a stage 2 WRX in the garage and I want low end power/torque.
Talk of a turbo build will end here!!!!!
Back to my project...
EJ25 block
95 EJ22 heads
Intake maniford from a ______
head gaskets
Delta cams
All replaceable timing belt items
EL headers
Neon/MSG coil
Injectors (?)
Cometic EJ22/25 hybrid headgasket
________
Edit: do 90-95 EJ22 heads work??? they seem to be all over Ebay and they dont distinguish between dual or single port exhaust.
Yes Grafton, I read your 7 page build and I really like it but I am a little apprehensive about the entire build... I am wondering if time could be spent in finding a freshly rebuilt stock 2.5 block as well as some great condition heads rather than going through the lengths you went to in rebuilding the block and heads themselves.
Baddog
12-18-2011, 01:58 PM
Anyone have the part numbers for the Hybrid HG's?
legacy360.
04-27-2012, 12:39 AM
i thought you couldn't do a Neon/MSG coil mod on a phase 2 2.2l. it has 4 wires leading to the coil not 3 as the neon/MSG has. if im wrong tell me now.
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