DIY: Rear Legacy Center Lamp 3rd Brake LED Install

[twistedautoworks]

Ok so I'm kind of doing this as an afterthought but I'll try to be as detailed as I can. So here is my DIY for installing a LED strip center/3rd brake light in my 99 LGT.

First off I ordered up http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/Red-LED/RED-STRIP-LIGHT-24-LED-p6374242.html

Ironically enough they are being discontinued, but i talked to the guys and they'll have it's replacement in stock soon.. You should be able to find something close. Anything 18-24" should work.

I had some damage to my trunk lid, thanks gate! And while fixing the damage I welded in some sheet metal to fit the JDM center section. Install will be the same for the USDM part.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6484810749_fb8184d3e2-1.jpg

On your work bench lay down a soft blanket so you don't scratch up the lens.

Remove the license plate lights to get access for drilling.

Measure out some evenly placed holes, I went for 6 but could really do any amount, just you have to seal up the holes after the install (plugs/sealer or strip caulk)

Now when drilling the holes you need to do it fairly low on the lens so that when pressing down the strip light you can get a screwdriver or small pry tool to press the double side tape down.
I would have loved to get the lights centered up right behind the legacy, but it seemed a lot easier to mount them in the bottom groove between the inner panel and outer lens.
Since I had a broken center section I tried to heat up the adhesive (similar when you pull apart the 1pc headlights to paint the bezels) but it didn't budge and had to nearly melt the plastic before it wanted to let go.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506845793_8b5e922ecb_z-1.jpg

Ok, now for the drilling part. You absolutely must use something to keep the bit from going too far. The distance between the outer lens and the backing piece is less than 3/4" so using a drill bit stop or being super careful with the larger step drill bit (the short and super fat one) although the bit seriously was like 50$ at the hardware store. So using a bit with a adjustable collar would be best.

So next take a couple deep breaths and drill your evenly spaced holes. Afterwards take a few more breaths, everything will be ok. And... get an air blower to blow out any debris inside the lense.

Here are the holes (this is with the strip caulk after install but kind of what it should look like)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506392869_ef108fe58d_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506393715_6e80062c42_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506394571_d7dcf7f1b6_z-1.jpg

I also drilled a smaller 1/4-3/8 hole for the wire.

Next comes the tough part. First off mock up the LED strip light to the outer lens and make note of where the LED's are. You need to measure that onto the back so that the actual lights are centered up in the lens once your all done. Mine was a 24" light and the LEDs were almost perfectly centered up on the mounting studs for the tail light panel. Ok, now the tricky part. You have to pull off the double sided tape backing and fish the whole LED strip into the housing without getting it stuck down. I put mine in so the glue was face up and could get it into position before rolling it 90 degrees into the channel and then be able to press it down using the 6 access holes. Find out where your LEDs need to be and move the light using the wire or small pick tools. Once you have it measured you can work your way from inside out pressing down the strip light into the groove/channel at the bottom of the light. You can kind of keep pressure on the wires to keep the strip as straight as you can while pressing it down. I would gently press it down first and check your work in case you have to try to readjust the position. Then once your done push it down firmly in place.

Next you can find the black and green/white wire (double check since different years might have different colored wire, also some LED strips have polarity issues) to splice into for the brake light function.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506395547_4183f22f62_z-1.jpg

Grabbed my cordless drill battery and used it to test out the lights

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506396489_11d2e389fa_z-1.jpg

and from a different angle (more how you'll see it when parked behind the car)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506392019_b3bcf9b3bf_z-1.jpg

Once you've got it tested and the light is pressed down as best you can, seal up the holes and get the light ready to reinstall.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506397653_4bacb44470_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506401659_a798eba7f3_z-1.jpg

From the top looking down you can kind of see the LEDs in there, but it doesn't look bad at all, and are hardly noticeable. Until you hit the brakes

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506400581_0bc839082a_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506399695_6a4585fbb1_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506398705_a4ec696296_z-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2011/12/6506402719_a3cd167321_z-1.jpg

If you have any questions or need these pictures blown up a bit I can upload higher res. I'll try to help out if I can, can't really get any new pictures since the lights already installed, but yea, enjoy and ditch your stock third brake light and go for an LED. ( oh and i have LED 1157 bulbs in the center panel, not in the outer taillights in case you were wondering about the difference in brightness)

[tylerkroh]

pretty cool idea just one thing please NEVER use those scotch locks they are the worst creation ever, you should just throw those out and splice it better because they are terrible for wires

[r3v_v3ng3]

nice!

[Wiscon_Mark]

pretty cool idea just one thing please NEVER use those scotch locks they are the worst creation ever, you should just throw those out and splice it better because they are terrible for wires

As in, they create corrosion? Nothing a little dielectric grease doesn't prevent. When you don't have much wire to work with, they're a better alternative to ruining your wiring harness and having no wire to work with.

[tylerkroh]

well they do take in moisture easier but they also splice by cutting into both wires and crushing them so there is more resistance and if you were to get sick of these lights then you would have to repair the wire when you take them off, every teacher ive had for auto have always my class how bad they are. There are also ways to wire this without ruining your harness too, you can get a tool that cost a couple bucks and pop the pin out of the connector, put a piece of shrink wrap over the wire, cut the sheathing off of it without cutting any wire strands, and then wrap the other wire oround the exposed area for a good connection and then shrink wrap, and for a more permanent you solder it before shrink wrapping

[Navi271]

Cool! Thanks for posting this up. I'll link this to my friends so they can do it too.

[httrdd]

There is another way to do it to just make "Subaru" light up. I saw it done to Trans Ams where the. "Pontiac" lights up. I will have to post it.

[Wiscon_Mark]

you can get a tool that cost a couple bucks and pop the pin out of the connector, put a piece of shrink wrap over the wire, cut the sheathing off of it without cutting any wire strands, and then wrap the other wire oround the exposed area for a good connection and then shrink wrap, and for a more permanent you solder it before shrink wrapping

Interesting. I'll have to look into that tool.

[tylerkroh]

you can get a tool that cost a couple bucks and pop the pin out of the connector, put a piece of shrink wrap over the wire, cut the sheathing off of it without cutting any wire strands, and then wrap the other wire oround the exposed area for a good connection and then shrink wrap, and for a more permanent you solder it before shrink wrapping

Interesting. I'll have to look into that tool.

it takes more work but its a better seal, connection and you dont have to worry about damaging the wires IMO

[twistedautoworks]

yeah i'm not really much a fan of scotch locks either, they look cheap and i've had a few problems with them over the years. if it were on a customers car i would have at least used heat shrink butt connectors.

[tylerkroh]

yeah i'm not really much a fan of scotch locks either, they look cheap and i've had a few problems with them over the years. if it were on a customers car i would have at least used heat shrink butt connectors.

ok that makes me feel better haha i just hate those things and i try to keep people from using them