Dead91silvia
02-12-2012, 03:01 PM
Ok, so you have a parts car and you have a lot of parts you want to keep, but then no auto wrecker will take it or will charge you for it since you have taken so many parts off if it, or it's just a pain to get the thing to the front yard...
Well my friends, this is what I do with my parts cars! (Note: ALL of my cars are obtained legally and NOT stolen!). I make more money cutting them up and taking them to scrap myself and at the same time I learn more and more the anatomy of what ever car it is that I'm cutting up.
This was a 1997 Legacy Outback I got for WAY too much! It was a fixable car, but had messed up paper work (lost title and I didnt want to do the 2 year wait thing that WA does). Sooo... she got the axe! Well, the Sawzall! Muhahahaa :twisted:
This is how I got it... hit in the front..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/IMG_6167-1.jpg
Stage one
The first thing to go should be the interior. It's so much nicer to pull when its still dry and easier to sell also!
first parts to pull: DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!
-front end (head lights, fenders, bumper)
-tail lights and rear bumper
-seats front and rear
-plastics such as console, cover for seat belts, and such
-carpet (trust me, its easier to do this now then later when it's wet and or really nasty dirty)
-rocker covers (if it has them)
-Cluster
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110522110237-1.jpg
Stage two
Car is still mobile, but most of it is stripped on the inside. This next step if done right still will keep the car mobile, so you can still strip it in your garage or front yard.
-Remove doors (this is where you should have stripped the plastics, so you can unplug everything the right way)
-remove hatch, hood, roof rack.
-glass if possible. I cut out both QT windows just in case I needed them for myself or a customer. Windshield is a little harder, so I leave them in most the time.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110522165513-1.jpg
Stage three
Now the fun begins! Since you should have got most everything out from the inside. This is were you need to get that Sawzall! Get GOOD blades such as "The Torch", they last 10 times longer then normal ones and they cut much better! Get about 3 shorts and then one long (12"). You will use mostly the shorts, but the long you will need for the firewall, frame rails, and comes in handy for some of the pillars. I have a corded and cordless saw's. You will learn the technique in time, but rule of thumb, keep the saw head up to the car!
-Remove all wiring you see that can be unpluged. DONT CUT THE FUEL PUMP WIRES! :smt021
-First cuts should be at the "B" pillars. Cut the top (by the roof line) first, then cut the bottom (at the rockers) and pull that section out.
-Next is the "C" pillar's. Same thing, top to bottom and remove section from top of window to base of window.
-"D" pillars will be a little tricky. Cut from the back (where the hatch closes and the rubber seal is) close to the top. If it binds, and it most likely will, stop and get something to take the tension off. You WILL brake a blade if you keep trying and it's stuff. Dont cut the pillar completely out at this time. You need the roof supported for going to the front.
-After you get your ass kicked by the "D" pillars, go to the front. Run a cut right behind the front windshield about 6 inchs give or take. You should have the head liner out to make sure all your cutting is the sheet metal. Makes life much easier.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110522174253-1.jpg
Stage four
Ok, now you need to find where the car can sit and not be in the way. I recommend NOT in your front yard or driveway! haha!
-Get you car in the air, the higher the better. Jack stands, big ass blocks of wood, anything that will make the car stable. I used an old set of steel Forster wheels and welded them together for when I had my Rock Crawler and they work great for this type of thing! The stands should be on the rockers, right behind the front wheel wells and right in front of the rear wheel wells.
Keep in mind, the car will be REALLY unbalanced! You might want to toss some heavy crap in the rear to keep it some what stable.
-remove battery. You dont want an air bag going off and you not gonna drive it any where so take it out!
-drain ALL fluids! Coolant, ATF, PSF, Oil, fuel, brake fluid, everything! Last thing you want is a mess to work in!
-pull wheels
-pull gas tank
-pull rear sub-frame and struts
-pull front suspension (arms off of frame and struts)
-prep motor to be pulled
-remove motor and trans
No pic of this step, but you get the idea...
Stage five
Ok, now that you should have ALL the drive train out (motor, trans, rear sub-frame, suspension, gas tank, drive-line, bla bla...) it's time to strip the rest. Pull all the wiring you can, at this point you can use cutters if you like, but I still like to pull things the right way for a better learning experience.
As soon as you have that done, brake out that saw and more jack stands! Keeps things from dropping and binding when they fall.
I start from the rear and work my way up. Quarters, rear floor pan, back seat pan, front pan. I end up with a half cut looking like this!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110523192223-1.jpg
Stage six
Now you have a fire wall to strip!
-Remove the dash
-steering column
-heater/AC boxes
-wiring
-brake booster/clutch (if it has one)
Your next cut should be the wheel wells off of the firewall, if you havent already dont it. The next big cut will be the a line from the top to the bottom of the fire wall.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110524143147-1.jpg
Stage Seven
now that you have all the major cuts done, make it smaller! If your taking it in with your own truck, smaller is better, you can fit more in one load. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110526205501-1.jpg
I know what you're thinking "this dude is nuts!", but I'm not, I just like to learn. I have done this to maybe about 30 cars over the years. Vintage Volvos (64-74), Nissan S13's, Toyota trucks, and now a couple Subaru's. I even did this to a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker I had no way to get paper work and I wanted it off my property. If you have a title, take it with you to the yard. I have had them ask me for it every now and then.
This is not illegal to do, if it's YOUR car! The last parts car I got was a 1989 Camry (customer couldn't afford to fix it) with nothing worth anything on it, so I just took the complete car in mainly because I never work on them and there was nothing to really learn from that car.
This outback and my L I parted out, I practiced pulling the dash because I knew I was going to be doing a heater core in, so by the time I did it, I would know all the hard things I needed to...
Anyway, hope you have all enjoyed this "How to Kill a Car" :grin:
Well my friends, this is what I do with my parts cars! (Note: ALL of my cars are obtained legally and NOT stolen!). I make more money cutting them up and taking them to scrap myself and at the same time I learn more and more the anatomy of what ever car it is that I'm cutting up.
This was a 1997 Legacy Outback I got for WAY too much! It was a fixable car, but had messed up paper work (lost title and I didnt want to do the 2 year wait thing that WA does). Sooo... she got the axe! Well, the Sawzall! Muhahahaa :twisted:
This is how I got it... hit in the front..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/IMG_6167-1.jpg
Stage one
The first thing to go should be the interior. It's so much nicer to pull when its still dry and easier to sell also!
first parts to pull: DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!
-front end (head lights, fenders, bumper)
-tail lights and rear bumper
-seats front and rear
-plastics such as console, cover for seat belts, and such
-carpet (trust me, its easier to do this now then later when it's wet and or really nasty dirty)
-rocker covers (if it has them)
-Cluster
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110522110237-1.jpg
Stage two
Car is still mobile, but most of it is stripped on the inside. This next step if done right still will keep the car mobile, so you can still strip it in your garage or front yard.
-Remove doors (this is where you should have stripped the plastics, so you can unplug everything the right way)
-remove hatch, hood, roof rack.
-glass if possible. I cut out both QT windows just in case I needed them for myself or a customer. Windshield is a little harder, so I leave them in most the time.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110522165513-1.jpg
Stage three
Now the fun begins! Since you should have got most everything out from the inside. This is were you need to get that Sawzall! Get GOOD blades such as "The Torch", they last 10 times longer then normal ones and they cut much better! Get about 3 shorts and then one long (12"). You will use mostly the shorts, but the long you will need for the firewall, frame rails, and comes in handy for some of the pillars. I have a corded and cordless saw's. You will learn the technique in time, but rule of thumb, keep the saw head up to the car!
-Remove all wiring you see that can be unpluged. DONT CUT THE FUEL PUMP WIRES! :smt021
-First cuts should be at the "B" pillars. Cut the top (by the roof line) first, then cut the bottom (at the rockers) and pull that section out.
-Next is the "C" pillar's. Same thing, top to bottom and remove section from top of window to base of window.
-"D" pillars will be a little tricky. Cut from the back (where the hatch closes and the rubber seal is) close to the top. If it binds, and it most likely will, stop and get something to take the tension off. You WILL brake a blade if you keep trying and it's stuff. Dont cut the pillar completely out at this time. You need the roof supported for going to the front.
-After you get your ass kicked by the "D" pillars, go to the front. Run a cut right behind the front windshield about 6 inchs give or take. You should have the head liner out to make sure all your cutting is the sheet metal. Makes life much easier.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110522174253-1.jpg
Stage four
Ok, now you need to find where the car can sit and not be in the way. I recommend NOT in your front yard or driveway! haha!
-Get you car in the air, the higher the better. Jack stands, big ass blocks of wood, anything that will make the car stable. I used an old set of steel Forster wheels and welded them together for when I had my Rock Crawler and they work great for this type of thing! The stands should be on the rockers, right behind the front wheel wells and right in front of the rear wheel wells.
Keep in mind, the car will be REALLY unbalanced! You might want to toss some heavy crap in the rear to keep it some what stable.
-remove battery. You dont want an air bag going off and you not gonna drive it any where so take it out!
-drain ALL fluids! Coolant, ATF, PSF, Oil, fuel, brake fluid, everything! Last thing you want is a mess to work in!
-pull wheels
-pull gas tank
-pull rear sub-frame and struts
-pull front suspension (arms off of frame and struts)
-prep motor to be pulled
-remove motor and trans
No pic of this step, but you get the idea...
Stage five
Ok, now that you should have ALL the drive train out (motor, trans, rear sub-frame, suspension, gas tank, drive-line, bla bla...) it's time to strip the rest. Pull all the wiring you can, at this point you can use cutters if you like, but I still like to pull things the right way for a better learning experience.
As soon as you have that done, brake out that saw and more jack stands! Keeps things from dropping and binding when they fall.
I start from the rear and work my way up. Quarters, rear floor pan, back seat pan, front pan. I end up with a half cut looking like this!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110523192223-1.jpg
Stage six
Now you have a fire wall to strip!
-Remove the dash
-steering column
-heater/AC boxes
-wiring
-brake booster/clutch (if it has one)
Your next cut should be the wheel wells off of the firewall, if you havent already dont it. The next big cut will be the a line from the top to the bottom of the fire wall.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110524143147-1.jpg
Stage Seven
now that you have all the major cuts done, make it smaller! If your taking it in with your own truck, smaller is better, you can fit more in one load. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/02/20110526205501-1.jpg
I know what you're thinking "this dude is nuts!", but I'm not, I just like to learn. I have done this to maybe about 30 cars over the years. Vintage Volvos (64-74), Nissan S13's, Toyota trucks, and now a couple Subaru's. I even did this to a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker I had no way to get paper work and I wanted it off my property. If you have a title, take it with you to the yard. I have had them ask me for it every now and then.
This is not illegal to do, if it's YOUR car! The last parts car I got was a 1989 Camry (customer couldn't afford to fix it) with nothing worth anything on it, so I just took the complete car in mainly because I never work on them and there was nothing to really learn from that car.
This outback and my L I parted out, I practiced pulling the dash because I knew I was going to be doing a heater core in, so by the time I did it, I would know all the hard things I needed to...
Anyway, hope you have all enjoyed this "How to Kill a Car" :grin: