EJ oil pan?

[subie/legacy]

Found a few things online, but nothing that really answers my question.
My oil pan is f'd, and need a new one.
Can I use any oil pan from any ej-series motor?

Any insight on this will be greatly appreciated

-kyle

[mike-tracy]

Yes, any EJ series will work. There's a couple of different shapes but all are interchangeable. If you get one from a radically newer motor just grab the oil pickup and baffle plate with it

[subie/legacy]

Thank-you
Will my dipstick read normal oil level with any (EJ) pan?
Ej25 n/a pan will work, but is oil capacity larger, and does it sit lower?
Or does the different shape solve that issue?

Whats a fair price for a used rust free pan?

[harrymaneuvers]

The dipstick will read correctly if you get the dipstick along with the oil pan.

A word of caution... most people end up trying to pry the old oil pan off... or in your case, pry the oil pan off a junk car to sell to you.

The oil pan is realitively thin... prying under the lip of the pan, where it sets on the bottom of the block, will almost certainly guarantee that you wont be able to get it to seat correctly and seal on your engine.

[subie/legacy]

Ok let see..
any EJ oil pan will work.
Get the correct dipstick for witch ever pan I use.
Make sure the new/used pan has baffle, and oil pick up tube.
Don't F up the pan when removing it.

What sealent is best to use?
After its all together, how long should it take to dry before adding oil?

Thanks mike, and harry

-Kyle

[harrymaneuvers]

Taken from: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... p?t=123013 (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123013)

"With the engine out this will work really easy. If it's still in the car, you should try to drain the oil at least a day ahead of time.
The oil dripping down out of the block and off of the internals will make it a real pain to get the gasket surface clean and oil free so you get a proper seal.

Use Ultra Grey sealer. Clean the pan completely. Inside and out. Scrape all the old sealer off, a brass wire brush works great for removing old silicone/rtv sealers. Use acetone or alcohol, brake cleaner works as well, to clean the sealing surface.

Clean the pan bolts. Dunk them in solvent, use a wire brush, your fingers, rag, or what have you, to get the bolts clean and free of oil. This will help make a better seal, and make it easier to thread the bolts back into the block.

Use a clean rag to wipe all the oil you can off of the block and bottom of the internals to prevent drips. Clean the mating surface with a wire brush and clean with solvent just like you did the pan.

Apply a roughly 3/16 - 1/4" bead the whole way around the pan. Then wipe it down across the width of the flange with your finger. Get it all around the bolt holes, cover the entire width of the flange.

Check the block surface to make sure oil hasn't run down to the mating surface, lift the pan into place and press and hold it against the block.
Try to avoid moving it side to side too much. Install the bolts, I usually put one at each end of the pan finger tight to hold it in place then install the rest and torque to spec. Most of the time pan bolts need only a few ft-lbs I think Subaru specifies something like 3-4, if you don't have a torque wrench that reads that low, most people don't, "snug" works.

Let dry for a few hours so the sealer can cure before adding oil."

[subie/legacy]

Thank-you harry
Good find. That's exactly what I needed
-kyle