clutch slipping with less than 5k miles

[r3v_v3ng3]

Here's my setup:

ACT heavy-duty Pressure Plate - SB011 (49% increase in clamp load)
F1 Racing heavy-duty Street Disc (225 mm, 24 splines)
F1 Racing Lightweight Chromoly Flywheel
TSK1 sleeve kit

I noticed that in the past 6 months, it would judder/slip on reverse and I can smell burnt clutch. When I went to dyno my car 3 months ago (december) the tuner told me that my clutch was slipping and you can smell burnt clutch when he was trying to bring it up the ramp to dyno. It also showed on the dyno since I only got 94 ft/lbs of torque compare to 121 whp.

Last month it was getting harder and harder to put it on 1st and reverse. So I pulled the motor out to find out that my clutch fork was cracked.

Trying to find out what went wrong (besides the cracked fork), any input is appreciated. Installed and torque properly(quadruple checked)
Here are some pics.

This is when I pulled the motor out
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/crackedclutchfork-1.jpg

Flywheel
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/LWflywheel-1.jpg

Pressure Plate
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/Pressureplate-1.jpg

Clutch disc
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/discpressureplateside-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/discflywheelside-1.jpg

[r3v_v3ng3]

Sleeve top view
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/sleevetopview-1.jpg

Sleeve bottom view
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/sleevebottomview-1.jpg

TO bearing clip
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/TObearing-1.jpg

I think the sleeve and the TO bearing clip was caused by the cracked fork. The TO bearing is fine, it spins freely and only notice the messed up clip.

[Reason]

I blame the F1 disc, that stuff is garbage. F1 is known for exploding, clutch disc that is. You are using a superior ACT pressure plate with a junk clutch disc. I don't have expirence with their flywheels but if they are anything like their clutch disc I wouldn't trust them.

I would get all new stuff, clutch fork, snout repair kit, clutch kit and flywheel. Start all over and go from there.

[Huffer]

The disc is your problem - besides the cracked fork.

[StatGSR]

looks like you slip the clutch too much, for 5k you have put a heck of a lot of heat into your pressure plate and fly wheel. could be a result of the cracked fork, since it probably wouldnt let you fully disengage ever, so it probably just slipped constantly...

in any case, get a new disk and resurface both the flywheel and the pressure plate wouldn't be a bad idea

[mlitz]

looks like you slip the clutch too much, for 5k you have put a heck of a lot of heat into your pressure plate and fly wheel. could be a result of the cracked fork, since it probably wouldnt let you fully disengage ever, so it probably just slipped constantly...

in any case, get a new disk and resurface both the flywheel and the pressure plate wouldn't be a bad idea

:smt017
If you resurface the pressure plate you are going to have engagement issues...

[Reason]

looks like you slip the clutch too much, for 5k you have put a heck of a lot of heat into your pressure plate and fly wheel. could be a result of the cracked fork, since it probably wouldnt let you fully disengage ever, so it probably just slipped constantly...

in any case, get a new disk and resurface both the flywheel and the pressure plate wouldn't be a bad idea

:smt017
If you resurface the pressure plate you are going to have engagement issues...

If you take way too much off yes. I'm running a stock resurfaced flywheel on a Exedy oem clutch kit with no issues what so ever.

And with you putting all this work into the car I would do what I said previously and buy all new parts so you have peace of mind.

[Huffer]

Pressure plate isn't same as flywheel...

[Reason]

I was thinking flywheel for some reason. But even then resurface shouldn't be an issue. But personally I would just go all new if possible.

[StatGSR]

:smt017
If you resurface the pressure plate you are going to have engagement issues...

Why? It's not any differant than resurfacing the flywheel, its still a friction surface that needs to work for the whole clutch assembly to work well. Also you only need to remove 0.01 inch to resurface, its not like we are talking about 1/8 inch or something.

Hell even taking an orbital sander to it to remove the glazing would be an improvement. The only other solution is a new pressure plate...

[r3v_v3ng3]

Thanks all for the reply!

I also was thinking its the disc. I had it a full F1 clutch/flywheel on my turbo KA24det 240sx and it worked perfectly. I guess like others says, its a hit or miss.

I never knew you can get a pressure plate resurfaced. I'm gonna get the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced to salvage them. I will also get another disc, probably a 6 puck act one. Sorta tight on money right now since I spent most of my paycheck on some jdm goodies today on the way to pick up a new clutch fork and the retaining pins.

[mlitz]

Why? It's not any differant than resurfacing the flywheel, its still a friction surface that needs to work for the whole clutch assembly to work well. Also you only need to remove 0.01 inch to resurface, its not like we are talking about 1/8 inch or something.

Hell even taking an orbital sander to it to remove the glazing would be an improvement. The only other solution is a new pressure plate...

It is still going to cause engagement issues, the amount that is removed from the contact area has to be removed from the mounting tabs. so yes it can be done but really not worth it. pressure plates can also warp witch causes more problems.

if you do a clutch job (as reason said) just replace the disk and pressure plate and you will be fine.

[StatGSR]

true, you should remove the same from the tabs (same can be said when resurfacing the flywheel), but even if you don't its not the end of the world. the change in thickness of the clutch disk itself over time is tens of magnitudes larger than the change in thickness from a resurface.

considering we are dealing with a nearly new $300 pressure plate, i think its safe to say its worth trying to save...