BD/BG GT Rotors vs. L Rotors

[Perdue]

I'm wanting to do a brake upgrade after I get my seats and the car painted, but I'm not sure if I want to do a full upgrade or not. Here's my options so far, in order from greatest expense to least expense:

First Option:
-STi V5/6 4pot front brake kit from Boxer 4 = $849
-Carbotech Rear Rotors = $158
-Carbotech Rear Pads = $89
-Stainless Brake Lines = $109
-A set of 16 or 17" wheels with winter tires = $1,000+
This option comes to a grand total of $2205. That's a lot of money to me that I don't REALLY need to spend for more than the bling factor. At this point, I'm not planning on going turbo due to reliability, and even if I did, I don't think I would need THAT much braking force. I may also have to source front Caliper brackets for this too, as I don't know if the Boxer 4 Kit comes with them.

Second Option:
-WRX Front calipers and brackets = $??? Would have to source them
-Carbotech Slotted Front WRX Rotors = $178
-Carbotech Front Pads (WRX) = $99
-Carbotech Rear Rotors = $158
-Carbotech Rear Pads = $89
-Stainless Brake Lines = $109
-16" Wheels (WRX Wheels would work) and Tires = $??? Once again, Sourcing
This option is probably only going to save me 200-400 over the first option, if my guesstimates are right, and will probably be far inferior to the STi 4-pot option.

Third Option
-Carbotech Slotted Rotors (front and rear)
-Carbotech Pads (Front and Rear)
-Stainless Brake Lines
This option would be nice in the fact that it will improve performance, while not becoming overkill, and provide a little bit of "bling" in the mean time. The bad thing is that my car's approaching 91k as we speak and will probably need caliper replacements before long, so I may end up running into MORE costs later on. Also, there's a problem with rotor diameters. Notice with this option, I don't have to buy new winter wheels, as I can retain my old steelies and winter tires, BUT, are there even slotted rotors and pads made for the 1998 Legacy L front brakes?? Are the rotors the same diameter as the GT Brakes?? Are the Pads the same??

Overview: If possible, I'd like to do some more minor, cost efficient brake upgrades, but I'm concerned with Rotor/pad sizes. Are the BD/BG GT Rotors and Pads the same as the L rotors and pads?? If not, does anyone make rotors and pads for the L??

[Pwise2326]

I'd say go with the 4 pots only if you are planning to do an engine upgrade, you need to balance go power with stopping power, as Yukonart once said in the past, "Power is nothing without control". IIRC the BD GT front rotors are vented and the L's are not? Correct me if I'm wrong. Another option that may be cheaper is getting either both '05 LGT break calipers, rotors and brackets, lines, etc (I know the rears work, they are larger and vented -- Gator GT did this, talk to him for more details) If the front calipers/rotors don't work, go with the WRX front setup, it will be much cheaper than the 4pots and will fit under the 16" wheels (unless the '05 GT's need 17's, but Gator will have to verify). But seeing you already have massive MB Motorsport weapons I think you'll be ok!

[Perdue]

I just looked and Remanufactured Loaded WRX Calipers will cost me $372 (that's with $100 worth of Core because I don't have anything to trade). I've also been looking at the ProECM Wilwood kit. It is $249 from SubaruPlanet and is also loaded. I'd still have to find rotors and possibly brackets, and 16" rims (used WRX Rims would work here though).

[gator gt]

somebody say my name? :lol:

The WRX fronts will work under stock 97-04 GT rims (16x6.5 +55), 02-04 WRX rims (16x6.5 +55), 98-01 RS rims (16x7 +53)....for the 05 Legacy GT fronts, you NEED the 05 LGT rims (17x7 +55).

You can fit the 05 LGT rear brakes under the same rims mentioned above.

RacingBrake makes a compact 4pot that fits under the #1 & #2 rims above. Little more $$ than the Ver4/5/6 4 pots, but more flexibility in terms of wheel choices.

Ver4/5/6 4 pots will work under 98-01 RS rims and 05 LGT rims.

The 05 LGT front 2 pot setup is LARGER than the WRX front 2 pot setup, thus the 17" rims. WRX front 2pots will obviously be cheaper.

I think the L front discs are vented.....but may be smaller. rears are definitely solid and probably smaller as well. Don't have my info with me here at work.

GGT

[Tris_STi]

I'd say go with the 4 pots only if you are planning to do an engine upgrade, you need to balance go power with stopping power, as Yukonart once said in the past, "Power is nothing without control".

WERD!! Art is a very good buddy of mine. He's partly responsible for corrupting me. :oops:

Your entire quote is relevant, though.

Why not try fresh rotors and good pads, first, as well as some decent fluid? --You don't have to go big, like hi-temp, or ATE SuperBlue, but whatever's meant to be in there is fine. (DOT3, 4?)

I'm not sure what's exact, but you'd have to be really pushing to reach/exceed the limits of your stock brakes, as well as generate enough heat to boil the fluid. (Of course, by that time, I'd expect to have definitly reached the limits of my rubber, though..) Try it, I bet you couldn't do it without spending at least your first brake estimate's amount on speed-only parts.

So here's what I recommend, since you said you didn't want to be a big spender:

Get your rotors machined --resurfaced, whatever it's called in your area. This shouldn't be more than $10/rotor, if that.
Next, get yourself some good pads. Carbotech bobcats are excellent, I hear, so you're on the right track there. Personally, I wouldn't want to spend more than ~$80-$100 on pads, all the way around.
Get good fluid. As I said before, it doesn't have to be fancy-schmancy stuff, just something not from the dollar store, and is a brand you know/trust. Bleed your old fluid, properly, and as completely as possible.

Optionally, switching brake lines would be beneficial, but the gains aren't spectacular.

My reasoning on this, is
A) YOUR POCKETBOOK! (I know about common courtesy :D )
and
B) Performance.

I'm sure that while both are nearly of equal importance in your mind, I'd say at some point, B) > A). Right?

So, with that in mind, think about what you're wanting to add to your car.

WEIGHT!
'Big Brake Kits' , although marginally offset by the required wheel upgrade, which, in many cases loses weight versus stock, adds unsprung weight to your overall vehicle. Unsprung weight is the worst kind of weight there is, especially when it comes to performance.

Personally, I akin Big Brake kits to turbo badges on NA cars and large, excessive wheels on mid-eighties Toyotas --Unnecessary rice, and a flat-out lie. It's like telling people you have power you don't have. Big brakes are required when you're making gobs of power, enough so that your stock brakes/tires reach their peak efficiency before your engine does.

Just my .02, there. Take it or leave it. :D

[Tris_STi]

Oh, and another thing:
Used WRX brakes/calipers go for anywhere between $100-200, max, condition pending.
NASALTALK ( NASIOC :wink: ) Would have them, as many WRX owners love to upgrade, but I'd stay away from buying them via RS25, as you'll not only face hot competition, but higher prices. WRX brakes, with the lightweight of the RS make for mad stopping power.

[shazapple]

For the BD/BG cars the L and GT/outback rotors are different, althought the brake pads are the same (My moms 99 Outback pads will fit on my 98 L I beleive)

The L brake sizes are 10.1" front disc and 10.5" rear disc
The GT/outback brake sizes are vented 10.7" front disc with dual caliper piston and 10.5" rear disc

All this is from www.cars101.com (http://www.cars101.com) its an awesome site.

Myself I plan on getting a set of better brake pads and lines. That allows me to keep my winter rims/tires

[Perdue]

I can pretty much swear that the front disc on my Legacy L is vented...

[Pwise2326]

I think you may have your front and rear rotor diameters switched perdue...I've never seen fronts smaller than the rears. They could very well be vented. I know my GT rears are solid as well, so vented would be nice, and brakes are coming soon on my list of "whats about to go" on my car. At least you now see a bunch of different options. Obviously for you wheel clearance isnt a problem cause you already have larger wheels. Now your only choice is which path to take. As far as fluid goes, get the ATE superblue, its real cheap from OGracing.com , I picked up 2 litres to do a full flush on my car...what a difference between the other crap that was in there. Plus its a siick blue color which made the flush and bleeding a breeze. So whats the verdict?

[Perdue]

My wheel clearance actually isn't a problem, but my tires are a problem. I have the 17s for summer and I do not plan on running them in winter as there are ES100s on these wheels, and I doubt they'll handle the snow very well. This means I either need to get a decent all season tire for my 17s and risk the road salt messing them up, or get a second set of wheels/tires.

[shazapple]

The rears are 'bigger' than the front for only one reason, you have to fit the E-brake drum in there.

[Perdue]

Just to let you guys know, I've decided to go with the Racing Brakes setup from Boxer4Racing on the front (Racing Brakes Calipers, Rotors, and Brackets with Hawk HPS Pads) and Brembo Slotted Rotors and Hawk HPS Pads in the rear. I should be ordering the fronts this friday, and the rears about a month from now. I've also made a decision to run the MBMotorsports Weapons year round...just going to get some new all season rubber around november (most likely the Pirelli P-Zero Nero M+S in 215-40). I'll let you all know about how the Racing Brake setup is after I get it on and run if for a bit. Wish me luck 8)

[filter27e]

Sha-zapple is right on those dimensions, he beat me to it. I think it's in my factory owners manual too.