help me not screw anything up. i.e. newby turbo build

[reallyhow]

so. ive done extensive research on turbo builds on rs25, here, etc...

BUT i'm paranoid that im going to mess it all up etc etc..

SO!

im going to compile a list of what i think i need and ask the elders of the forum to guide this youngling on my journey to turbo heaven.

im building a hybrid motor of sorts with 251 heads and a 257 block gonna have to rebuild the block however any way i digress, on to the list!

List of things i think/know i need

engine management-decided on emanage-ultimate

better fueling-fuel pump,injectors(I forget which ones work in the 251 heads), RRFPR?

turbo bits-manifold, up/downpipe, turbo (going with a td04 unless everyone thinks thats dumb)

voltage clamp for my MAP sensor

notched or (God willing) SS turbo leg crossmember

hours of work/blood/sweat/tears to accomplish this goal

and a buddy to help keep my head straight.

anything i may have missed?

[reallyhow]

also need to tap into the valve covers for oil

tap into the coolant for the turbo

sti oil pump...

a good solid tune after 1000 miles

anything else?

[anothernord]

Don't go any larger than a 10mm oil pump. I'm not sure what the STi one is, but if it is over 10mm, its not helping you.

[csweston]

IIRC sti is 11mm

[mlitz]

First of all what are your power goals? and how much do you want to spend?

pick 2...
fast
reliable
cheap

[reallyhow]

im shooting for 300 at most, im not trying to kill myself or my wallet. i have ~2000 saved up for this at the moment

[Garrison]

What car is it going into, and what engine does that car have (or had)?

(cont):

-RRFPR? --> No, not if you're going to use emanagement. RRFPR's are okay, but there are much better ways to control fuel.
-TD04- it's an *okay* turbo for your project. If you don't want to choke it, use an external wastegate (ebay versions work fine), otherwise your engine is large enough that it will begin tapering off rather obviously around 4k.
-manifold is a twofold path; you can keep your stock headers and make a custom up-pipe; or you can notch your crossmember (or swap out a legacy turbo crossmember) and use WRX/sti headers (they're the same thing as far as you're concerned and the wrx will likely be cheaper). Down-pipe will be made easier if you grab an ebay generic, (see external wastegate above)

Once you get all your parts the assemblage of your parts won't take you all that long (with the exception of the Emanage). Took me about 6 hours with a lift, and a large part of that was the custom exhaust bits I had made. OEM has the nice benefit of fitting well into subarus at the cost of being restrictive in nature.

Try to find a forester XT or 06-07 WRX intercooler; their slim fit goes well with the constrained space of the NA intake manifold/firewall.
You're also going to have to move some things around in the engine bay, and grabbing a catch can will help clean up your exhaust of forced oil blow-by.

[reallyhow]

this is going into my 99 legacy. i have one of the weird california emission ones with the 2000-02 ej222 in it, so the 251 heads will swap right in without any trouble IIRC. the only reason i was going for the TD04 was cost since they are always around, what would you suggest i go for instead?

[Garrison]

this is going into my 99 legacy. i have one of the weird california emission ones with the 2000-02 ej222 in it, so the 251 heads will swap right in without any trouble IIRC. the only reason i was going for the TD04 was cost since they are always around, what would you suggest i go for instead?

If you wanted to stay OEM with the turbo vf39, vf45, or vf22 are the best.

If you want to go outside OEM, you have two main decisions to make: oil cooled vs liquid cooled and size.

I would recommend something like a TD05h-16 which can be found from Zage, on ebay for a little under $300. This will give you a very nice power band, is liquid cooled, and fits almost perfectly into OEM setups. Just figure out a way to regulate your boost so the thing doesn't send a rod through the block and I think you'll find it to be the best street subaru turbo you could ask for (they do come with internal wastegates, but I'm not a fan of those).

[chuckthefuk]

I have 4x OEM STOCK 02-05 WRX Top Feed Green Injectors fitted with Yoshio Phase II SOHC EJ251 adapters if you want them..
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=23891&hilit=+injectors (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=23891&hilit=+injectors)
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/7945/items001.jpg

These items below will help the longevity & reliability however they are optional:
ARP head studs for the 251/SOHC = Part # 260-4702 (longer studs then wrx/sti)
Killer Bee oil pick up = http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_ ... Pickup.htm (http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/UltimateOiPickup.htm)
ACL bearings = http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... 7-249.html (http://realstreetperformance.com/store/acl-race-bearings-subaru-wrx-sti-ej25-ej257-249.html)
Cometic Gasket Kit including H/G = http://www.raceeng.com/p-12387-complete ... m-set.aspx (http://www.raceeng.com/p-12387-complete-gasket-kitej251-99-05101mm-set.aspx)

Front turbo cross members/subframes are easy enough to find on ebay however you can save a bit if you find one on your local subie forum.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=wrx ... &_from=R40 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=wrx+front+crossmember&_sacat=0&_odkw=wrx+crossmember&_osacat=0&_from=R40)

-Chuck

[anothernord]

Another thing: Don't notch your crossmember unless you are a really good welder and have fabrication equipment. The crossmember is VERY important, and you don't want to have it crack.

When the crossmember is notched, it will usually gain a bunch of points at which stress can concentrate and cracks form over time. You don't want it failing at a random time 10000 miles down the road. Even if a reinforcement plate is welded in, it will never be as strong as it was before, and the welding heat will change the phase of the metal around the weld, making it weaker. Just buy a turbo crossmember and put it on. If you can't afford one, then don't do this build. It's the last thing you want to worry about.

[reallyhow]

dont the wrx crossmembers make the motor sit funny in the 2nd gen legacys?

there is a ss sitting at a junkyard near me... but i think they are trying to sell it as a whole car, anyone want to go halvesies?

[anothernord]

dont the wrx crossmembers make the motor sit funny in the 2nd gen legacys?

there is a ss sitting at a junkyard near me... but i think they are trying to sell it as a whole car, anyone want to go halvesies?

No, Subaru crossmembers are all identical in regard to engine position.

[chuckthefuk]

not true.. STi version 5 crossmember is much lower then the others.. Just saying..

[reallyhow]

so i could buy essentially any turbo cross member and pretty much just swap it in?

[Garrison]

No,
anything outside of the turbo legacy requires a swap of power-steering rack and possibly control arms.

[anothernord]

Yeah, I did a whole bunch of research, and it is truly worth the time and effort just find a T-Leg crossmember. You just bolt it in; that's it.

[chuckthefuk]

Garrison and Anothernord have a point..

But regardless you will need to change your front sway bar since the non-turbo bar wont clear the turbo cross member.

You can source out a full WRX cross member with the rack installed and sway bar on the cheap. Lots of people switching to STi parts.

You should be able to reuse your control arms and end links (IIRC!)

The only issue i can think of in that scenario is the steering column u-joint. If you have a local welder near you its a simple 10 minute weld. Cut your legacy u-joint in half and do the same for the WRX unit and weld them together..

-Chuck