Choices, choices... EJ25D HG job

[Thomistopheles]

I have zero experience building anything other than inline toyota and honda engines, this is all new to me. The engine has 204,XXX miles on it, runs great other than the head gasket leak pushing coolant out of the overflow. No codes, good power, doesn't burn anything. It has gotten hot, but I shut it off as soon as the needle started rising.

I just finished my parts list and figured out costs for the HG job. Right around $1k for gaskets, ARP studs, timing belt kit and water pump, clutch kit, flywheel, and a little extra for other things... shiny new bolts, hose clamps, zip ties, degreaser, paint, fluids, etc.

Anything else I should look at doing? I'd go ahead and replace my rod and main bearings if this were an inline six...but it's not, and the idea of splitting the block fuckin' terrifies me :shock: :lol:

Oh, and a photo...since threads without photos are boring.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/05/5f36f1fd-1.jpg

[Reason]

Timing belt and idler pullies. Do it all now so you don't have to later. Check out my list for my rebuild, that may give you an idea.

[Thomistopheles]

Timing belt and idlers are on the list already. I've been lurking in your thread :wink:

Should I reseal the current oil pump, or go ahead and buy a new one?

[Staxta]

$1000 is a lot, I got all the parts OEM through the dealership for about $600 here

[Reason]

I would go new, I was going to keep the oil pump and water pump. The water pump is bad and the oil pump was leaking. It was planned as a budget build, I long abandoned that. You should never skimp out with a engine build, do it right the first time.

[Thomistopheles]

$1000 is a lot, I got all the parts OEM through the dealership for about $600 here
OEM HG set w/ VC gaskets - $210
ARP studs - $180
Exedy clutch, PP, bearing - $230
Flywheel - $55
Gates T-belt, idlers, water pump - $185

That's $860 right there.

Add:
New oil pump - $130
Pump seals - $13
Separator plate bits - $37

Bam. Over $1k... and that's before fluids, cleaning and refinishing supplies, or all the nickle and dime bits and pieces that pop up during a build.


It was planned as a budget build, I long abandoned that. You should never skimp out with a engine build, do it right the first time.
Gotta pay to play, and I need a nice reliable daily. This is inexpensive compared to my 7M builds, where the only parts I re-used were the bare block and stripped head. :lol:

[subie/legacy]

I may be wrong, but I don't think the arp studs are necessary..

[Thomistopheles]

They're not necessary. OEM would do the job fine.

I prefer head studs over bolts and I have used ARP for everything in the past. They make good stuff so I'm sticking with them.

[Crowboy]

While on one hand, these blocks tend to run forever with very few issues, it's not that hard to split the block and do the bottom end as well. It really depends on whether you want to know what the real issues are, especially if the car's history is unknown to you. It looks like the body is in great shape and if you're willing to invest in head studs, I think it's worth the extra time and cash to refresh the bottom end as well. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 200k mile block and I figured it wouldn't need much either, but I found a bit of scoring on the crank and a little too much play between the pistons and the bores, so it's getting the full treatment and I'm much happier knowing everything is right for another 100k at least.

My $0.02,
Zack

[Staxta]

$1000 is a lot, I got all the parts OEM through the dealership for about $600 here
OEM HG set w/ VC gaskets - $210
ARP studs - $180
Exedy clutch, PP, bearing - $230
Flywheel - $55
Gates T-belt, idlers, water pump - $185

That's $860 right there.

Add:
New oil pump - $130
Pump seals - $13
Separator plate bits - $37

Bam. Over $1k... and that's before fluids, cleaning and refinishing supplies, or all the nickle and dime bits and pieces that pop up during a build.


It was planned as a budget build, I long abandoned that. You should never skimp out with a engine build, do it right the first time.
Gotta pay to play, and I need a nice reliable daily. This is inexpensive compared to my 7M builds, where the only parts I re-used were the bare block and stripped head. :lol:

Ah ok, well I didn't get the clutch but the rest is a pretty similarly priced, after new oil + coolant and having to buy new tools it was probably about the same.

[Thomistopheles]

I've got a pretty good idea of the car's history, I have a folder with every receipt related to the car going back to 1997. Over 65 oil change receipts, every coolant flush, gear oil change, brake job, sensor replacements... I even have a receipt for a tire shop when the previous owner had them patch the tire... with the offending nail taped to the receipt. :shock:

I have to keep downtime to a minimum, so I will likely be leaving the bearings alone. If I were working on a second engine, it'd be getting torn down for a full rebuild. As it is, I can do all of this in a weekend without rushing through it and be back on the road.


Ah ok, well I didn't get the clutch but the rest is a pretty similarly priced, after new oil + coolant and having to buy new tools it was probably about the same.
Yep, clutch hasn't been done yet. Still good, but it's about time for a new one.

I'm open to clutch suggestions. Not boosting it or making any real power, so I figured the exedy would be fine.

[mike-tracy]

exedy is my choice too for a DD