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View Full Version : Need help with Idle air control sensor.



MarkSubi
08-03-2012, 12:32 PM
My idling has been acting up for some time now but lately its gotten even worse so I'd like to know from yawl, what is some other things that could be causing my car to not idle properly I want figure all of this out before I try getting one just in case all it is something I could do myself with out having to by another one. I know it could be cleaned and what not but if its not even that what other things could be causing this. Could coolant flow or a lack of it in this area effect it as well.

anothernord
08-03-2012, 01:12 PM
Just take it off and clean it now. No cost whatsoever.

MarkSubi
08-03-2012, 02:27 PM
Is there a Thread on how to take it out And will I need to take out my Throttle body to get to it fully?

Wiscon_Mark
08-03-2012, 06:08 PM
Not sure if there's a thread, but you don't need to remove the TB to get it out.

1. Take the intake tubing out
2. Remove all the little EGR lines and the PCV line to access the bolts
3. Remove the wiring harness from the EGR valve
4. Remove the little coolant lines (plug them up with something preferably) from the IAC unit.
5. There are two (12mm head) bolts holding the IAC in there, remove them.
6. It should just pop right off, and there's a gasket in between it and the TB/Manifold - grab that before it falls.
7. Run some seafoam and compressed air through it and make sure the valve actuates nicely.

There's a service procedure in the FSM about cleaning this valve with it still on the car as well, but it's much harder to inspect it with it jammed in there.

MarkSubi
08-03-2012, 08:45 PM
Not sure if there's a thread, but you don't need to remove the TB to get it out.

1. Take the intake tubing out
2. Remove all the little EGR lines and the PCV line to access the bolts
3. Remove the wiring harness from the EGR valve
4. Remove the little coolant lines (plug them up with something preferably) from the IAC unit.
5. There are two (12mm head) bolts holding the IAC in there, remove them.
6. It should just pop right off, and there's a gasket in between it and the TB/Manifold - grab that before it falls.
7. Run some seafoam and compressed air through it and make sure the valve actuates nicely.

There's a service procedure in the FSM about cleaning this valve with it still on the car as well, but it's much harder to inspect it with it jammed in there.


So to clean it I just need sea foam? and do you mean the entire IAC or just that Cylinder part that has a plug going into it?

Also at this moment I'm trying to get it off but I think I have a third bolt behind it because ot turns but doesn't come out.

MarkSubi
08-03-2012, 11:34 PM
Do I hav to use seafoam or could I use throttle body cleaner as well?

MarkSubi
08-04-2012, 11:38 AM
Okay so heres the deal I put everything back into my car last night and never touched it, I Test it out this morning, the first tome I start the RPM's shoot way up high and stey there for a few seconds then shoots back down then goes back up just a little and then stays on 1000 RPM's for a few seconds then goes to normal idle. I let it run till it warms up then I eventually turned it off. I go to start my car again after a minute and it act's like it doesn't want to start like it has been before to me and also my check engine light is also still on. I end up trying to start it about three minutes later and it automatically starts. Could this problem also be checked by cleaning my MAF and my Throttle position sensor? Should I also check my spark plugs?

Wiscon_Mark
08-05-2012, 06:19 PM
It's a great idea to clean your MAF with the proper cleaner, clean out the TB, and change the plugs. The fewer variables you have, the better, and none of those things are real expensive to do.

MarkSubi
08-05-2012, 07:06 PM
It's a great idea to clean your MAF with the proper cleaner, clean out the TB, and change the plugs. The fewer variables you have, the better, and none of those things are real expensive to do.


I'm about to clean the EGR valve.