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View Full Version : Squealing TOB, pedal sticking to floor, considering options.



98OBW
08-03-2012, 06:30 PM
So the TOB on my car started squealing right before my clutch pedal decided it wanted to the stick to the floor and have erratic engagement when the car was warm. I replaced the clutch master, slave and hose with only a slight improvement, so I'm just dealing with that issue for the time being. I've read somewhere that it could be a cracked or damaged shift fork? I wouldn't fully know until I tear into it so that brings me to the clutch job. I figured I'd just deal with the slight squealing noise when the clutch is engaged since it wasn't bad enough to hear when inside the car over the exhaust. The squeaking when pressing down the clutch pedal was annoying, but not annoying enough for me to tear into it.

Well, before the bearing fails completely and while I have some downtime being able to drive my truck around, I'm researching my options. The clutch engagement feels fine (other than the pedal sticking to the floor randomly) so I was originally just going to install the TSK1 kit. The car has 166k on it so I'm thinking it would probably be a good idea to replace the clutch while I'm at it, instead of having to do that job when it's least convenient. Initially I was looking at the BRUTE POWER Part # 92543 on RockAuto for $178.79 that comes with a "Release Bearing Sleeve Repair Kit" so I wouldn't NEED the TSK1 (although yes I realize the TSK1 is still a good idea). I was also considering ACDELCO Part # 381417 on RockAuto for $192.79 that has a "Release Bearing Sleeve Repair Kit" pictured. Both are their "most popular parts" so they must be doing something right.

In a perfect world where I had more money to throw at this car than it deserves, I'd like the TSK1 kit with the Exedy Clutch P/N 15801 on autoplicity, but then we're talking $277 for the clutch and $155 for the TSK1 kit. $432 is a hard pill for me to swallow when I could get the RockAuto kits for less than half the price.

This car was strictly supposed to be my winter car, but since I've purchased it I've installed a completely custom exhaust system from the wrapped replica headers back, a hybrid intake, a plethora of lights, and have been daily-driving it. So it looks like it's going to be my year-round car when I'm not DD'ing my truck in the summer (which I usually do, but I find the Subie so much more fun to drive). I hate endlessly throwing money into the car since I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it for a year, two years, or fifteen years - but something needs to be done with this clutch before something fails catastrophically.

Since opinions are like assholes and everyone has got one, I'd like to hear some of yours. Does anyone here have one of the RockAuto options, and is it really worth more than twice the price to install the Exedy clutch and TSK1 kit over the other options that include a repair kit? While I'm doing this I also need to replace my trans and motor mounts, because they're shot. I wanted to replace them with the Group-N engine and trans kit, but $287 for some mounts is a joke (I know there's the DIY trick for at least the trans mount, but that would require me to have the car stuck on my lift for several days or buy a new mount) This car is just sucking me dry.

Huffer
08-04-2012, 10:50 PM
It sounds like your clutch fork is bent, or cracked.

But your clutch is also pretty worn and the TSK1 really is the best way to solve clutch chatter.

With a tight budget, I would go for the Rockauto clutch, with the TSK.

For your engine and trans mounts, just pick up some used WRX takeoffs with low mileage. They're 100% compatible and being newer, will make a difference without breaking the bank.

98OBW
08-04-2012, 11:13 PM
Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised if it is. I'll see when I tear into it. Doesn't seem like it would be an expensive part to replace but we'll see what the local Subaru dealer charges... I found the TSK1 kit on sumoparts.com for only $129.45 shipped which seems to be the best price available.

I was thinking of looking for used STI mounts and doing the DIY stiffener for the trans mount, wasn't completely sure the engine mounts were the same - good to know.

98OBW
08-06-2012, 08:03 AM
Found a TSK1 kit for only $108 so I snatched it up!

98OBW
08-15-2012, 10:44 PM
$150 later I have a full set of Group-N mounts w/ pitch stop.
Now I'm just trying to talk myself out of the Exedy clutch... :-?

Huffer
08-16-2012, 09:19 AM
Exedy all the way.

98OBW
09-01-2012, 10:24 PM
Well unfortunately the Exedy clutch went up $27 between me looking at it and actually ordering it, but I'll let the pictures do the talking. I talked myself out of a lightweight and ordered a new stock weight flywheel instead of getting the old one machined.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/553861_10151076609437149_1847894072_n.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/558453_10151076949017149_1188792680_n.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/292095_10151076949112149_733349244_n.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/563237_10151078558192149_1897885343_n.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/563054_10151078558327149_758398477_n.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/488363_10151078558672149_1112319990_n.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/488276_10151078558832149_1838565207_n.jpg

Clutch fork is perfect, so who knows about the erratic engagement and the sticking to the floor bullshit. I did find that the pilot bearing is SHOT, not to the point of failure - but it's VERY close.

Looks like the engines been out of the car already, I'm wondering if it was for the HG's because the outside of them sure don't look like there's 165k of grease on them like the rest of the engine does. Pulled the timing belt covers on the L & R sides and the belt doesn't look like there's 165k on it either. Gotta pull the crank pulley off tomorrow so I can tear into it further. I'm going to replace the rear main seal and the oil separator plate, that'll cut down on my oil leaks. Also thinking of replacing the valve cover and oil pan seals since they're leaking too.

Now I'm wondering what else I should do while I have the engine out. It has piston slap when it's first started, low oil pressure when hot at idle, leaks/burns about a quart every 800-1,000 miles, and has a misfire on cyl 3 & 4 from 3,000 - 3,500 RPM. I was considering tearing into it a bit more but I don't have the time, patience or desire to get myself into a rebuild. I've just been running it on 10w-40 with a quart of Lucas in the crankcase for about 6 months & 5,000 miles now, which has helped the low oil pressure when warm problem. The PO put in new NGK plugs & wires with a new OEM coil trying to get the misfire to go away with no luck. The low oil pressure when warm & piston slap came from the PO driving it with a bad oil pressure sensor that was spewing out oil everywhere. I was planning on running this engine until it dies and replacing it with a known good one from a rotted out car, or getting an engine to rebuild as a side project.

Huffer
09-04-2012, 12:35 PM
Piston ring on #3 has a crack or is burned.

98OBW
09-04-2012, 01:10 PM
How does one come to that conclusion?

Oh surprises, how I love you...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/20120904194221-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/20120904193922-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/20120904193759-1.jpg

Neither of the drivers side cam gears are lined up.