Still having idle issues..

[MarkSubi]

Okay so heres the deal I cleaned my throttle body and my IAC. I put everything back into my car last night and never touched it, I Test it out this morning, the first tome I start the RPM's shoot way up high and stey there for a few seconds then shoots back down then goes back up just a little and then stays on 1000 RPM's for a few seconds then goes to normal idle. I let it run till it warms up then I eventually turned it off. I go to start my car again after a minute and it act's like it doesn't want to start like it has been before to me and also my check engine light is also still on. I end up trying to start it about three minutes later and it automatically starts. Could this problem also be checked by cleaning my MAF and my Throttle position sensor? Should I also check my spark plugs?


I also just now test drove it when it turnsed some it gets a little stuck for like one second on 2000 rpms and then it goes to 1000, has gone lower then that but to the normal now rpm. My engine like is still on I drove around my neighborhood and the surrounding main street. and when I went into my neighborhood it stalled on me so i put it in neutral since i was still rolling when when trying to start it it acts like it doesn't want to start and then it eventually does. I did clean the Throttle body and the IAC. Could this be a problem in coolent flow into the IACV? I'm really lost at this. Please tell me what are some other things it could be or to check?

[loganmossmusic]

Did you make sure the IAC is working properly? Sounds to me like its not functioning right. I do not know how to test it though. Someone on here will, and will hopefully chime in.

[Dead91silvia]

Make sure your EGR valve is working properly... it might be part of the problem...

[MarkSubi]

Did you make sure the IAC is working properly? Sounds to me like its not functioning right. I do not know how to test it though. Someone on here will, and will hopefully chime in.



It seems to be working to me I checked it an all but Idk how to tell if an IAC is actually working.

[MarkSubi]

Make sure your EGR valve is working properly... it might be part of the problem...


This is where Ill go next.

[MarkSubi]

Is there a thread on here on how to Check or even clean the EGR valve?

[MarkSubi]

I'm probably going to take it to one of the subaru dealerships since I know people at both. Idk what it is and personally I fill it could be something needing to be replaced now. I also do clear the computer from any codes by disconnecting the negative side of the battery and stuff and its fine but already twice while it was clear, I would be driving some where and while on the drive all of a sudden the check engine light is back on. It also acted like it didn't want to start twice already when turning it back on to go to my next destination as in Id be driving to point A with no engine light on, then while on the drive it all of a sudden comes on and then I eventually get to point B and then when wanting to leave point B it acts like it doesn't want to start? This doesn't always happen have happened after my first drive out. My also stalled on me at a light last night as well and took three trys for it to start up. Could this be something totally different then the air flow components or should I just replace my IAC. Could there be some sort of leak that could cause this as well, I am pretty sure my fuel pump works.

[Huffer]

1. Did you pull the codes for the CEL when they occurred?
2. Did you make sure all your vacuum hoses are plugged in correctly?

[MarkSubi]

If you mean a scan tool then not going to lie I have done so and Yes every hose is secure. What other areas on the EGR valve as in like hoses can be cleaned if possible.

[Huffer]

1. What CEL codes did you get after every instance?
2. If you weren't having these problems before you cleaned the IAC and throttle body then the problem is likely to be your reinstallation.

[MarkSubi]

1. What CEL codes did you get after every instance?
2. If you weren't having these problems before you cleaned the IAC and throttle body then the problem is likely to be your reinstallation.

Crap I meant i haven't put it on a scan tool yet but no it was doing this all even before i cleaned anything, cleaning everything I did was to see if it would stop.

[Huffer]

^ well that's some important information you left out at the very beginning...

So, the symptoms you listed were happening before you cleaned the IAC and throttle body. And now you have other weird things going on.

Here's what I think happened:
1. Your battery is weak, dying and not holding a charge properly, OR the alternator is on its way out
2. When you removed and replaced the throttle body and the IAC, you over-tightened the throttle cables or knocked some gasket material off the IAC. You did replace the gasket when you cleaned the IAC, right?

[MarkSubi]

^ well that's some important information you left out at the very beginning...

So, the symptoms you listed were happening before you cleaned the IAC and throttle body. And now you have other weird things going on.

Here's what I think happened:
1. Your battery is weak, dying and not holding a charge properly, OR the alternator is on its way out
2. When you removed and replaced the throttle body and the IAC, you over-tightened the throttle cables or knocked some gasket material off the IAC. You did replace the gasket when you cleaned the IAC, right?


Not really any new symptoms but the same ones its been having. I did replace the gaskets but I know for sure it's not that because even the old ones were perfectly fine and reusable if I wanted. Also the throttle and cruise cables were never adjusted so I know for sure its not that and I wouldn't think it would be the alternator or battery considering this has been having for a very long time now but until a few weeks ago it's gotten worse, probably because I started to use my A/C again until one day after a long drive i turn the a/c off while at a stop light and the RPM's start going crazy for a few minutes.

[MarkSubi]

Okay there's a chance you're right about my alternator dying out soon. Saturday night I was going to leave a five guys with some friends, started my car but then was waiting for my friends FD to warm up so I turned my car off. I eventually wanted to turn it back on but it wasn't starting. After 5 to 6 times of trying to start it I start notching my cluster and spudometer lights while trying to start it are going to dim and even the sound of the car firing up slowed down. Told my friend what it was doing and we just went ahead and jumped me and it started fine. Drove m car for a little bit today with no problems so far but you could be right after seeing that.

[MarkSubi]

Okay went and got my car scanned and this is what it pulled up.

P0340- Cam Postion Sensor
P0325- Knock Sensor
P0441- Purge Cylinder

[MarkSubi]

Can anybody give me help with this ^^^^^

[Huffer]

Buy a cam position sensor, start with that one.

Did you clear the codes first, and then try restarting the car? The first code that comes up is usually the one that is the main culprit. If it's the cam sensor that makes sense because it will cause the car to run off, and that will trigger the knock sensor.

Purge cylinder is Emissions related.

[MarkSubi]

Buy a cam position sensor, start with that one.

Did you clear the codes first, and then try restarting the car? The first code that comes up is usually the one that is the main culprit. If it's the cam sensor that makes sense because it will cause the car to run off, and that will trigger the knock sensor.

Purge cylinder is Emissions related.

Okay well would the Purge have anything up with it or is it just being shown because of the other sensors throwing it off?

And the way I posted the codes is literally the order they were on the computer when I scanned it.

[Huffer]

The order that they are stored is not necessarily the order of occurrence.

The Purge cylinder is probably in there because you have multiple misfire codes

[MarkSubi]

The order that they are stored is not necessarily the order of occurrence.

The Purge cylinder is probably in there because you have multiple misfire codes


Then any chance replacing one or both of the sensors will help the misfiring or is that something else all together.

[MarkSubi]

I cleared the code and when the light eventually came on I went to autozone and used the scan tool and the first code to come up was the P0325 and then then the next code was the P0441.

[Huffer]

So get a new knock sensor

[MarkSubi]

I plan on it but I think the purge stuff is something else.