Ask a detailer!

[Thomistopheles]

As many of you know, I get great satisfaction out of making things shiny and clean. :lol:

After reading Dead's thread here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25447 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25447) I thought I'd give a bit back to the SL-i community in the form of a detailing Q&A thread. Some things do require hands-on instruction, but most jobs you might need to tackle can be done by anyone with patience and the right products/tools.

So... do you have a mystery interior stain? Trouble getting stubborn pet hair off your upholstery? Swirl marks in your paint? Yellow headlights or faded tails? Engine bay an eyesore?

[camroncamera]

Yes!! My question has to do with Subaru paint... Our BK is in overall very nice original condition, extremely straight with barely a ding, Black Granite Pearl paint polishes up nicely, however, the hood (and to a much lesser extent, the top edges of the fenders and a couple other small portions on the roof) has a paint defect that is difficult to describe; it is a sort of micro-crazing or "crackly" appearance in the clearcoat. These cracks cover the entire hood, and are particularly noticeable on the front portion (along with several small chips). When light-colored polishing compound gets into these tiny cracks, the defect is exaggerated. My suspicion is that the only way to "detail" the problem away would be to strip and fully repaint. Have you seen this before? I've heard on the forums about "crappy Subaru paint" - is this one example of a typical Subaru paint issue? These cracks have been on the car since we've owned it (less than 2 years). The car has spent it's life in the PNW/Portland Metro area and has virtually zero rust, other than tiny specks in chipped paint damage.

This seems to be the best picture that I have (plus a 100% crop) - you can ignore the badly chipped bumper:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/08/IMG_95631-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/08/IMG_95632Edit_Closeup-1.jpg

[greenspeed]

Yes!! My question has to do with Subaru paint... Our BK is in overall very nice original condition, extremely straight with barely a ding, Black Granite Pearl paint polishes up nicely, however, the hood (and to a much lesser extent, the top edges of the fenders and a couple other small portions on the roof) has a paint defect that is difficult to describe; it is a sort of micro-crazing or "crackly" appearance in the clearcoat. These cracks cover the entire hood, and are particularly noticeable on the front portion (along with several small chips). When light-colored polishing compound gets into these tiny cracks, the defect is exaggerated. My suspicion is that the only way to "detail" the problem away would be to strip and fully repaint. Have you seen this before? I've heard on the forums about "crappy Subaru paint" - is this one example of a typical Subaru paint issue? These cracks have been on the car since we've owned it (less than 2 years). The car has spent it's life in the PNW/Portland Metro area and has virtually zero rust, other than tiny specks in chipped paint damage.

This seems to be the best picture that I have (plus a 100% crop) - you can ignore the badly chipped bumper:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/08/IMG_95631-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/08/IMG_95632Edit_Closeup-1.jpg


My 98 LGT with the same paint did exactly the same thing. They looked like little snowflakes. I think it was a defect in Subaru's paint/primer...

[Thomistopheles]

That looks like the beginning of clear coat failure. The cracks will eventually grow and interconnect until the clear starts flaking. The only guaranteed method of fixing that is a respray. Anything else will just be an attempt at hiding the damage. :-(

I've used the following method to revive panels with complete CC failure, but it requires machine polishing with a DA or rotary polisher and a rather expensive (but awesome) sealant. My test panel lasted 18 months before the car went out of state. That was large areas of bare base coat, though. I am not certain if it will fill in cracked clear. Opti-coat 2.0 is usually used in place of wax on freshly corrected paint, it's a layer that protects the clear. It cures hard, resists scratches and repels dirt + contaminants to an extent. It's also expensive, $60 for a 20cc syringe that will do a few cars.

If you decide to attempt it, the steps would be as follows...

1 - Wash using two bucket method
2 - Clay to remove bonded contaminants before polishing
3 - Machine polish to remove swirls/defects and slightly blend cracks
4 - Wipe thoroughly with 15% IPA solution and a microfiber to remove any residue/oils
5 - Repeat step 4 again, because the paint must be absolutely naked for the opti-coat to bond
6 - Apply opti-coat, following included instructions to the letter

My recommendation? Save your money for the inevitable re-spray if you intend to keep the car for a while.

As far as subaru paint sucking... Yeah. It really does. :lol: The clear is soft, which makes it difficult to correct defects without putting new ones in...and I have seen some with cracked paint.

[Dead91silvia]

Cameron... That paint is F***ED... no fixing that. Red85celica has the same thing going on. We might be re-spraying his paint the end of summer. Luckily my car has never had that problem.


I was gonna be a smart ass but I wont... oh wait, no I do! hahaha


How do you get 10 years of farts out of cloth seats? :grin:

On a serious note... Whats the best way to get tree sap off paint (other then wax and grease remover)? I have never had to deal with it till this summer... :smt017

[camroncamera]

Cameron... That paint is F***ED... no fixing that. Red85celica has the same thing going on. We might be re-spraying his paint the end of summer. Luckily my car has never had that problem.
Pretty much what I figured. The silver lining to my situation is that I'll be adding JDM mirrors, JDM grille, JDM spats, JDM GT-B Limited front bumper, and - if I can find one - a JDM GT-B rear bumper, all of which will need to be painted. So once I've got all my JDM items sorted, I can get the JDM bits plus the hood and possibly fenders painted as well... but the smartest thing to do may be to paint the entire car all at once... I'm actually considering changing the color slightly to the JDM BG Black Mica, since I'm not crazy about the purple/maroon push that the USDM Black Granite Pearl shows. The two colors are similar, but the Black Mica has quite a bit less reddish and would be nice to have.

[Thomistopheles]

How do you get 10 years of farts out of cloth seats? :grin:

Are we talking normal farts or chipotle farts? If it's the latter of the two, it's best to nuke your seats from orbit and issue Subaru of America a formal apology for the years of cruel and unusual punishment. :eek:

As far as tree sap goes, I'd imagine you're having issues with pine or fir sap. Try Stoner Tarminator. If you can't get that, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol can do the job. You can heat the sap to soften it and remove a majority with a plastic razor, then follow up with IPA to finish the job.

[Dead91silvia]

Cameron... That paint is F***ED... no fixing that. Red85celica has the same thing going on. We might be re-spraying his paint the end of summer. Luckily my car has never had that problem.
Pretty much what I figured. The silver lining to my situation is that I'll be adding JDM mirrors, JDM grille, JDM spats, JDM GT-B Limited front bumper, and - if I can find one - a JDM GT-B rear bumper, all of which will need to be painted. So once I've got all my JDM items sorted, I can get the JDM bits plus the hood and possibly fenders painted as well... but the smartest thing to do may be to paint the entire car all at once... I'm actually considering changing the color slightly to the JDM BG Black Mica, since I'm not crazy about the purple/maroon push that the USDM Black Granite Pearl shows. The two colors are similar, but the Black Mica has quite a bit less reddish and would be nice to have.

There are 2 variants of that color, more red and less red... Just FYI...



How do you get 10 years of farts out of cloth seats? :grin:

Are we talking normal farts or chipotle farts? If it's the latter of the two, it's best to nuke your seats from orbit and issue Subaru of America a formal apology for the years of cruel and unusual punishment. :eek:

As far as tree sap goes, I'd imagine you're having issues with pine or fir sap. Try Stoner Tarminator. If you can't get that, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol can do the job. You can heat the sap to soften it and remove a majority with a plastic razor, then follow up with IPA to finish the job.

I'm talking Taco Time farts! Oh wait... do you guys have those? Anyway, they are much worse then Chipotle farts! :smt028

It's fir.... damned cones! Thats good to know! Like I said, havent had to deal with it on my own cars till now.

[Thomistopheles]

Any worse than chipotle farts, and we need to forget odor elimination and start thinking about installing a fire suppression system in the car to handle the flames shooting out of your ass. :confused2:

[Dead91silvia]

Any worse than chipotle farts, and we need to forget odor elimination and start thinking about installing a fire suppression system in the car to handle the flames shooting out of your ass. :confused2:

Maybe thats why I have a hole in the seat?! :smt005

[chrish8r]

This is the roof of my SVX. It looks as if there are water spots on there but it doesnt come off. How should one go about fixing this???
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/20120825135056-1.jpg

Thank you

[Thomistopheles]

Have you tried claying it? You can get clay bar kits at most parts stores, just give it a good wash and follow the directions on the box. Be sure to apply wax after you're done. If the clay bar doesn't take it off, the water spots are etched into the paint and will require polishing.

Try claying and let me know how it goes. I'll walk you through hand polishing and recommend products if necessary at that point. :smt023

[chrish8r]

I have a clay bar kit. Just never thought about using it

[02_Legacy]

cleaned out the inside of my car today and I was wondering if there is an easy way to get all the dead bugs and other crap out from where the rear window meets the rear dash in a sedan. I used a small vacuum attachment and was able to somewhat get in there but I could not get alot of stuff out. Any suggestions?

[camroncamera]

cleaned out the inside of my car today and I was wondering if there is an easy way to get all the dead bugs and other crap out from where the rear window meets the rear dash in a sedan. I used a small vacuum attachment and was able to somewhat get in there but I could not get alot of stuff out. Any suggestions?
http://www.micromark.com/miniature-vacuum-kit,7651.html
Or compressed air?

[Thomistopheles]

Compressed air will do the trick, just try to avoid blasting a dead hornet into your eye. :eek:

You can use a brush with long bristles to sweep them out of the corner and into a more accessible area if your vacuum's crevice tool can't reach them.

[kimokalihi]

I've gotta take some pics of my paint and see if you think it's restorable or not. It's on my 91 legacy and it's mica white which is pearl white but the paint is yellowing in places and looks dirty even when it's not. I'm planning to wash it real good, clay bar it and cut and buff then wax it.

[kimokalihi]

Snapped some pics just now. Camera phone. Broad daylight so I couldn't even see the screen while I was taking them but you can get an idea of what I'm dealing with. There's a bit of dirtiness in the paint in places and the paint is yellowing.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20120912_141602-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20120912_141612-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20120912_141619-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20120912_141630-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/IMG_20120912_141729-1.jpg

[02_Legacy]

Compressed air will do the trick, just try to avoid blasting a dead hornet into your eye. :eek:

You can use a brush with long bristles to sweep them out of the corner and into a more accessible area if your vacuum's crevice tool can't reach them.

I will try these methods, although I would think that compressed air would wedge the crap even deeper into the corner. Thanks!

[Thomistopheles]

When the air hits that corner, it'll blow those dried up dead bugs right back out. Keep the nozzle low so it's lifting the bugs up and not pushing them into the interior panel, and attacking from the sides can help as well.


I've gotta take some pics of my paint and see if you think it's restorable or not. It's on my 91 legacy and it's mica white which is pearl white but the paint is yellowing in places and looks dirty even when it's not. I'm planning to wash it real good, clay bar it and cut and buff then wax it.
Looks like your plans for it would be appropriate. If the paint isn't in bad shape other than the discoloration and yellowing, I'd substitute Klasse AIO instead of compounding and polishing. Since your paint is older, it's likely that it has been polished before and the clear may not be very thick...so use caution and utilize the least agressive polish and pad/applicator that will remove the defects and discoloration. You don't want to cut through your clear.

Good luck, and let me know how it turns out! :smt023

[bulldozer24]

I got a question for you, why do you wipe a car down with IPA after using m105?

[Thomistopheles]

Some compounds and polishes leave oils behind which can hide defects when you go to inspect your work.

You want to be absolutely certain that there is no compound/oils on the panel when you move on to the next step. If you're using a rotary and there's a trace of M105 left on the panel, when you hit it with M205 on a polishing pad to restore clarity and finish it off... you'll have holograms or buffer trails chasing you all day long.

[bulldozer24]

Okay thanks, I also assume to do the same after m205 and then its ready to wax.

[Thomistopheles]

Correct. That way your wax is adhering to the paint and not to leftover polishing oils.

[Wiscon_Mark]

I forgot to ask you when you were over - is it OK to leave the Spar Urethan/Mineral spirits mixture sit for a while? Or do I need to mix a fresh batch every time. I didn't have any problems with my week old batch on the Legacy, but better safe than sorry.

[Thomistopheles]

It should be fine for a decent amount of time, just limit its exposure to air so it doesn't dry up on you.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Well, I've got plenty, so I can probably remix every month or two (small amounts is all it takes). I did 4 coats on the Legacy headlights and barely made a dent in the 3oz. or so that I had.

[bulldozer24]

What are your feelings on opti-coat 2.0?

[Thomistopheles]

Deep gloss, very slick, and it acts as a hard sacrificial layer above the clear. Shallow scratches and swirls won't penetrate into the clear, so you can polish them out and recoat without worrying about eating through the clear. Car washes won't take it off. Time won't take it off. You can clay it. Even all purpose cleaner or dawn washing won't take it off. I love the stuff and feel it's worth the steep price tag.

If you enjoy playing with different waxes, it's probably not for you... nothing will stick to it, and you're stuck with the look opti-coat gives until you compound it off to expose bare paint again.

[kimokalihi]

Would opti-coat 2.0 be a good idea for my old paint once I clean the paint and polish it?

[Thomistopheles]

I'd go with Collinite 845 or 476s. It's a durable wax, looks good, can fill/hide some defects in your old paint, and is inexpensive. Opti-coat won't fill defects, and chances are your old paint won't be able to have all the deeper stuff removed while polishing. I used 476s on my old Cressida for winter prep, and it still beaded water after 4 months of a harsh Wisconsin winter. It's my current wax on my BG, as well. Makes for pretty good reflection shots. :wink:

Cressida
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/231dbbe4-1.jpg

Outback
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/09/P8241433_zps1582209f-1.jpg

[kimokalihi]

Ooooooh pretty :) I have flat black rotas and I'm kind of tired of the dirty matte look. Can I wax them and make them at least semi-glossy?

[kimokalihi]

Also, what's the best way to clean matte black wheels? Car wash soap and a rag?

[Thomistopheles]

Painted wheels can be cleaned with your regular wash soap and loads of patience. My weapon of choice is Sonus Full Effect wheel cleaner with a wheel brush and old microfiber towels that have been retired from paint and glass use, I highly recommend this stuff. I used to hate cleaning wheels, this stuff makes it super easy and it appeals to my inner child by changing colors as it works :lol:

Wax will make a matte finish a little glossy, but you may have issues with removal and residue since it's a rough surface. You could level the rough surface of the matte paint by wetsanding and polishing, but with the labor involved you might as well paint them however you want them to be.

[kimokalihi]

Ok cool thanks. I can't wait for my car to be all shiny and new.

[camroncamera]

Ok cool thanks. I can't wait for my car to be all shiny and new.
Like a [Madonna song] :grin:

[Thomistopheles]

Bump! Winter is coming, any winter prep questions?

Bonus headlight restoration porn:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/PA071643_zpsc519fa26-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/PA071645_zps2bbd32fe-1.jpg
Forgive the messy tape, this stuff sucks and doesn't stick...

My mother in law is letting us drive her winter beater Taurus while my Outback is down. Business is slow right now, so I have some time to do a few things as a way of saying thanks for helping us. I'll be doing the interior next... she's a smoker, and a coffee drinker/spiller :lol:

Process for the lights:
Cleaned with diluted Meguiars all purpose cleaner and Stoner Tarminator
Clayed to remove embedded crud
Meguiars M105 compound on an orange Lake Country pad
Meguiars M205 polish on a white Lake Country pad
Alcohol wipe to clean any oils or remaining polish

Currently working on the last step, a few coats of a 1:1 Helmsman spar urethane + mineral spirits mixture applied VERY thin. This will protect the headlights from UV and keep them looking like this for years.

[bulldozer24]

Nice headlights :wink: but tell me more bout this urethane and mineral spirits mixture

[98legwag]

Nice headlights :wink: but tell me more bout this urethane and mineral spirits mixture

2nd!

[Thomistopheles]

You need UV protection on the plastic lenses or they'll start yellowing again quickly. Clear gloss helmsman spar urethane will do it. The mineral spirits thins it for application, helps it level out. Some people use an air brush to apply it, but the blue shop towel has worked perfect for me and countless others.

I learned about using helmsman spar urethane from this thread
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/sho ... -idea.html (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/19021-headlight-restoration-new-uv-sealant-idea.html)

One thing I should add...if any of the factory coating is left or if there's nicks from rocks that you want to remove, you will want to wetsand the light before polishing. The urethane won't stick to some coatings.

If you do this (and legacy lights love to yellow/oxidize so I know some of you will try this) post your results here! Wiscon_Mark did the stock lights I traded him when I got his JDM lights for my car, and they turned out great.

[98legwag]

The weird thing is left jdm projector and fog look good, but the right ones tend to haze over. I may try this on them soon.

[kimokalihi]

Figured I would share my results from a different product. 3M headlight restoration kit for use with a power drill. Still looks great over a year later.

Bought the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit from Autozone for $22.99 to do my gf's civic and figured since I had it I might as well do my passenger light on my legacy since it was not bought at the same time as the driver's side and was a little yellow even after trying a different headlight polish that didn't work very well. Got started on it and decided to do both lights just because and the corner lights too.

Here's the 3M Kit.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0264-1.jpg






Yellow passenger headlight.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0271-1.jpg





Sanded with 500 grit pad.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0273-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0272-1.jpg





All finished. I polished them some more after these pics and put a couple coats of wax on them.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0275-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0274-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0278-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0277-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMAG0276-1.jpg

[Wiscon_Mark]

Okay, here's my question:

The clear coat I'm using (Dupli-Color Professional fast drying clear lacquer in a can from Paintscratch) to go over the base coat has instructions about finishing:

After I'm done spraying, they tell me to (wait and let it dry first) use a rubbing compound to get a clear, reflective, glossy shine. Is Meguiar's M105 cutting compound OK, or should I get something more purpose built? I've already used it on a door that had a major chunk of paint missing and it doesn't shine like the factory coat does. Does this require a better compound or just more buffing?

[Thomistopheles]

M105 by itself will level out defects, but it leaves the finish hazy. Did you follow it with M205?

[Wiscon_Mark]

Of course. It still wasn't quite mirror-like. I did wetsand all but the last coat of the basecoat, as recommended.

[Thomistopheles]

Hmmm... I'd probably have to see it for myself. Shine a bright light, like 500w halogen work light or LED flashlight, and take a photo of the reflection of the light on the paint. Like this, but much closer.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/Eddie%20RX4/90f4c52e.jpg

If you can't get a good photo of it, I can look at it next time I come up to Point.

[Baddog]

I have an orbital buffer. I am a complete noob at detailing.

Are orbital buffers bad? It uses a 10" pad. Also pad recommendations? Wool? Micro-Fiber?

[Thomistopheles]

Don't plan on correcting any imperfections or removing swirls with an orbital buffer, all they're good for is waxing... use a microfiber bonnet for that. They just don't have anywhere near enough power to remove defects in modern paint.

[Baddog]

Have a recommendation of an affordable buffer?

[Thomistopheles]

I'd recommend something like the Griots Garage 6". Autogeek has a deal where they'll throw in some pads to get you started. I have their 3" polisher for tight spots, and it's great. Dual Action (random orbital) polishers have plenty of power and have an easy learning curve. The Porter Cable 7424 is another good one, might be a little more expensive.

http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-o ... isher.html (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html)
Just add compound, polish, and the wax of your choice. Meguiars M105 and M205 are a solid combo that will handle almost anything, but Menzerna and Optimum make great products as well.

The initial cost for tools and product is a bit steep, it sucks... but that's the price we pay for doing things right.

[MarkSubi]

Sorry if this is only for paint but I've used this stuff on my carpet in the legacy and its amazing better then shampo washing but can I also use this for a random spot stain on my sealing of the car.


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/2zp11xi-1.jpg

[Thomistopheles]

Headliners are pretty fragile, so I'd avoid agitating it with those stiff bristles. Otherwise it should be fine.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Have a recommendation of an affordable buffer?

I have the Porter Cable 7424 (bought it at Lowes) and I love it. Plenty of power and a 5 year warranty.

[Thomistopheles]

Givin' this bitch a bump, cuz bitches love bumps.

Just did a buddy's 2.5RS. He had it ready for me. Cleaned the glass, did one pass of M205 on a white lake country pad (soft subaru clear, lawl), and applied Collinite 476s wax via machine. Bam, done.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/_1100227-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/_1100225Edit-2.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/_1100209Edit-2.jpg

I ****ing love black cars. Even if I'm working with Subaru clear, which will scratch if you look at it wrong.

[wentz912]

Any tips for my 96 bk? Car is white. Got a rear bumper that looks significantly yellow, and a black scuff or scratch on the front right of the bumper. Looks like Po tapped something, can see where the bumper flexed enough to crack the paint near the scuff.

[Thomistopheles]

Is the black scuff paint transfer? If it is, compounding can usually remove it. If it's super stubborn, wetsand + compound + polish. For the yellowing, you can try hand polishing with a microfiber and meguiars ultimate compound. If that doesn't help, it'll need paint.

[rushjay2121]

i have a question... my uncle (previous owner of the car) did possibly the messiest, worst buff job on the car. luckily he didnt leave any swirl marks, but he did cover all the black plastics on the car with the compound and i was wondering what your method (if you have one) of getting all the white out of the black permanently. ive dressing it, scrubbing it, soap, water, even paste wax and nothing worked. any suggestions?

[Thomistopheles]

Isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber towel is my usual method for removing the "other guys" dried wax/polish/compound. If it's super stubborn, Meguiar's all purpose cleaner agitated with a brush. I use Poorboy's Trim Restorer after I'm done. I can't think of any trim restoration products that are actually permanent. Some dressings will have dyes in them and last a while, but the only truly permanent fix would be masking and painting.

[rushjay2121]

alright thanks... i have a feeling its going to be stubborn as its been sitting on there but ill try. if i have to repaint what kinda paint do you suggest?

[Thomistopheles]

That's probably more a question for a body and paint guy. On my Legacy I used plasti-dip on the window trim. It holds up surprisingly well and is easy to work with.

Another local detailer who does a lot of high volume work bought some wheels from my friend today. He saw my handy work on that gold Mazda RX-4. He's looking for help, he's swamped with new and used car prep for dealerships... so I have an interview on Monday. Getting my ass back to work and making money again will be nice since things have been so slow. Fingers crossed, offerings to the employment gods, etc

The best thing to do at interviews is burst in through the door and yell "I came here to f**k bitches and make money!" right?

[bulldozer24]

The best thing to do at interviews is burst in through the door and yell "I came here to f**k bitches and make money!" right?

You're hired!

[Thomistopheles]

Did an Acura MDX and a Lexus IS300 today. Makin' that subaru part money, awww yeaaaah.

I am a little sad, I don't get to do my usual lines on the upholstery and carpet. That's one of my favorite things, making alternating light and dark stripes. I think it adds to the "just detailed" look, and clients generally go apeshit over it like I'm some sort of wizard... but the dealership doesn't want them. Boooo.

How to be a carpet and upholstery wizard:
1. Get all the fibers of the carpet running one direction with a brush or vacuum, running front to back.
2. Run the brush or vacuum back to front with a space between strokes so the pattern alternates.
3. BAM! Your carpet looks like a freshly mowed baseball field.
4. Defend yourself against the waves of scantily clad supermodels chasing you.

[Thomistopheles]

Finally got around to getting photos of each step of my headlight restoration process for you guys. My headlights weren't too bad at all, since Wiscon_Mark had rockblocker film on them.

Supplies and tools required:
500 through 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
Bucket o' water
Meguiars M105 compound
Meguiars M205 polish
Foam pads, one light cutting and one polishing
Microfiber towels
Isopropyl alcohol
Mineral spirits
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, clear gloss
Heat gun (optional, faster cure time)



Before:
I removed the film. It left a thick adhesive residue behind, which required removal with a plastic razor and 3M adhesive remover on a rag. This photo was taken after cleaning it up.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140297_zps1ec991bf-1.jpg

500 grit wetsand
I soaked all my sandpaper in a bucket of soapy water and started wetsanding. Remove any scratches, pitting, and remaining factory UV coating in this step.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140299_zps93f32774-1.jpg

800, 1000. 1500, and 2000 grit wetsand
Pretty self explanatory. Work the headlight progressing through finer and finer grits, until you hit a minimum of 1500 grit. M105 can handle removal of 1500 grit scratches, but I prefer to hit it with 2000 grit for a better finish.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140300_zpsf79f3023-1.jpg

M105 and a light cutting pad
In this step, I used a Lake Country light cutting pad with Meguiars M105 compound. This removes the scratches from wetsanding and gives the light clarity again. M105 leaves its own swirls and haze, so follow it up with a less aggressive polish and pad.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140301_zps612bc13a-1.jpg

M205 and a polishing pad
This step removes the haze left behind by the M105, leaving a glass-like surface. After this step, wipe the headlight with isopropyl alcohol to remove any contaminants or oils left on the surface. The lens is now ready for coating.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140302_zps7d2b6274-1.jpg

Mix Helmsman Spar Urethane and mineral spirits 50/50
You don't need much. It will have a watery consistency once mixed and goes on VERY thin.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140307_zps27564efb-1.jpg

Urethane mixture applied
Fold a clean dry microfiber OR blue shop towel so you have a 1 inch square application area. Dip it in the mixture and apply the coating using overlapping vertical strokes, then overlapping horizontal strokes. The coating will self level, but watch for air bubbles and runs. Once it is dry to touch you can apply a couple more coats. You can use a heat gun to help it dry faster.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140305_zpsd53e5947-1.jpg

Finished headlights
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/12/_1140308_zpsa5fc1657-1.jpg

[Wiscon_Mark]

Couple tips to add to Thom's excellent writeup:

1. Mix the Spar Urethane & Mineral Spirits in SMALL batches. It does go bad/dry up after a few months.
2. Careful with the heat gun. If you heat it up too much, it will haze badly, requiring you to do a significant amount of work over again.

This is almost exactly how I do my headlight restorations, it works quite well. The urethane mix seems to last quite well too. Much better than Meguiar's own headlight protectant which requires re-application every month or so to remain effective.

Thom - you should repost this as a new thread in the DIY forum, and I'll add it to the threads of note.

[Thomistopheles]

Done. I added a note on heat gun use and how little of the thinned urethane you need for a set of lights.
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=26365 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=26365)

[bulldozer24]

just did my headlights yesterday, any other good uses for this urethane mix

[Thomistopheles]

I just use it for lights. Headlights and tails.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Well, you can use it on any plastic surface that you want UV protection on. It's actually intended for woods like decking & such...

[98legwag]

Would using the pressure washer at a place like Flagship strip away wax that is already on the car?

[Thomistopheles]

I had to look up Flagship to see what it was, lol. Most self serve washes will have some pretty harsh chemicals and will strip your wax right off.

If you need to use one of these places, here's what I'd recommend:
Take two buckets, a wash mitt, and some good car shampoo to a heated self-serve bay during non-peak hours. Use the pressure washer to rinse off loose dirt/salt, rinse the undercarriage, and fill your buckets with water. You want one bucket of clean water and one with soapy water. Clean your mitt using the clean water before dipping in the soapy water, repeating often. Rinse using the pressure washer, then dry.

[98legwag]

OK. Thanks. I ended up washing it by hand. But I don't know if I will be able to all winter.

[rkrenicki]

I recently de-badged my trunk, and I cant seem to get rid of a residue outline around the old logos. I tried to photograph it, but it does not come out very strongly in photos.

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/IMAG0044_zps9fc6ba20.jpg

In the above picture, you can sort of see the outline of H6-3.0, and a bit of the O of Outback. I have tried soaking it in Goo Gone and scraping it with a plastic razor blade. There is a hard edge that it catches on, but it does not seem to want to budge.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Try a heat gun. It will heat up the adhesive residue and then use that plastic razor blade. Make sure not to overdo it though, you don't want to overheat the clear coat and cause bubbling.

[Dead91silvia]

Not sure if he will have the same answer... but this is what I would do.

Buffer with wool pad and #10 Meguiars rubbing compound. Thats whats I have in my shop.

Mind you, Tom is a Detailer, I'm a bodyman/painter... So he may know of a simpler better method....

[Thomistopheles]

I'd try a clay bar first. If that doesn't remove the bonded contaminants, it's wool pad + compound time.

[rkrenicki]

Claybar worked perfectly. I had never done it before, and I was amazed at what such a simple operation could do.

[Thomistopheles]

Spring is coming!

That's right! Soon we'll be saying auf wiedersehen to the snow, ice, salt, and sand that has been pummeling your car.

Picture this:
You've finally got a hot date with that girl you've had a crush on for ages. It's springtime, love is in the air. After a spirited drive, you've arrived to pick her up. She's wearing that black dress, tight in all the right places. She opens the passenger door to get into the car... But what's this? A wild stain in your seat, an offensive odor, and a slimy armrest! Disgusted, she leaves and goes out with that guy you hate, crushing your hopes and dreams forever. Rumors start circulating about you. Your friends refuse to hang out and don't return texts or calls. You've committed social suicide! Oh if only you had asked Thomistopheles how to remove that organic stain, properly clean your panels, and eliminate that gym sock smell...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/tumblr_lmazhfgtMJ1qgm4ji_zps7c97d3f1gif-1.jpg

There's still time, my friends! You can rescue yourself from that cruel fate. You can have a beautiful clean car that makes a positive impression, and smells like success! Ask away... problem areas, product recommendations, proper techniques. I will do my best to arm you with the knowledge you need to keep your scoob happy.

[Bookem]

I have white powder coated rims that are starting to turn yellow in the hard to clean corners. What kind of magic would work for these?
I'll try to get a close up picture later today if I get home before the sun is down.

[Thomistopheles]

If it's only in the hard to reach tight areas, it's probably baked on brake dust that didn't get picked up in previous cleanings. Pop off your wheels and show them some love for a couple hours.

Clean them thoroughly with a quality wheel cleaner like Sonax or P21S, agitate with brushes. You can use small brushes or a microfiber towel wrapped around your finger to get into tight areas, Q tips work great for the impossible to reach spots like rivets and tiny crevices. Follow up with a clay bar to remove any remaining bonded contaminants. If those trouble spots are still yellowed, use compound and polish by hand to remove any oxidation. You should be able to find Meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish locally. I'd suggest following up with a wheel wax or sealant to make future cleaning easier, brake dust will have a hard time sticking to it and comes off easily.

If this doesn't take care of it, the wheels need to be blasted and coated due to a problem with the coating itself. Improper cure time, high temp, or being too close to a heating element in the oven can lead to yellowed powder coat. Exposure to gasoline can sometimes cause issues with yellowing as well.

[Dead91silvia]

Thom.... I should really ask this in a PM... But... How do you get blood stains out of your trunk? I tossed a couple body's in there the the other day and they bleed all over. I need to make sure I can get all the evidence cleaned so the cops dont find it.

I know, I know... I should have used industrial strength plastic, but it was a rush job.

[Thomistopheles]

Dammit Robin. Why didn't you use a shower curtain? You're such a noob sometimes...

Ugh, fine. I'll help you out. Blood is a protein stain and it's water based. The least aggressive method is to saturate it with cold water and blot it out or extract it with a wet/dry vac. Next, you can use an enzyme cleaner. They're usually marketed as pet stain and odor removers for carpet cleaners. If it's really stubborn, like the blood of a well-used transvestite hooker, dilute some store bought hydrogen peroxide 2:1 and saturate the stain. Let it bubble and work a few minutes, then blot it up or extract it. The last step is purging all evidence by fire. Make sure it looks like an accident so insurance will pay up.

Hope that helps. Try and be prepared next time, would ya?

[Dead91silvia]

I know... I'll make sure to cover all bases next time... :grin:



All joking aside... I do have a customer with a 2011 Chevy Aveo that, we dont know how, had a LOT of blood in the front seat, center console, and floor pan. It cleaned up, but the smell is F***ING horrible! At least to me that is. We are thinking there was a shooting of some kind since I had to replace a rear door glass in it. I still will not drive it and/or get in it.

When they refer to the smell of "decomp" in CSI, I know what it smells like. Worked on a Civic about 4-5 years back that someone committed suicide in... Same smell in that car also.

[Thomistopheles]

I did an interior job on a taxi a few months back, it had me considering the purchase of a hazmat suit. I didn't get the story behind it, but the rear seat was soaked with blood.

The decomp smell... I did an interior on a VW eurovan camper last year that was in storage. They went to get it out, and they found a broken window from a break in. They also found a very dead cat. They removed the cat and called me. I was able to kill the smell and clean it up, but I had to stop and walk away several times to stop gagging. The job was veeeery profitable. I got a 100% tip, a gift basket two weeks later, six referrals, and the customer came in for my maintenance package every two weeks until they moved.

[Dead91silvia]

Thats just wrong! :tongue6:

Yeah... Short of replacing the seats and carpet, we have no idea how to get rid of the smell... It's not that easy to get new interior for a 2011...

How did you get the smell out?

[Thomistopheles]

Kill the source, kill the smell. If it's been in there a long time, it'll permeate the seat foam, carpet padding, and make its way into the hvac system.

The first step is removing all traces of the source. I used an enzyme cleaner in a hot water extractor for the carpet and seats. Make sure you get everything out of the seat foam, and you may have to clean under the carpet. The headliner, dash, and panels were cleaned with a steam cleaner. Next it's a matter of cleaning up the air. A lot of detailers use something called an ozone generator to eliminate offensive odors. I don't have one, so I cleaned out the HVAC system using 1Z Einszett Klima-Cleaner and used a DP odor eliminator fogger to nuke the rest.

[Thomistopheles]

Thought I'd get some photos of what a rinseless wash is capable of handling. I presoak using rinseless wash in a garden sprayer when it's this bad, and I use a different wash method. One bucket full of rinseless wash solution, with several microfiber towels in it. I use one towel per panel. The wash provides lubricity and traps the dirt, then the towel captures it. That towel then goes directly into the microfiber laundry bin. It does not pass go, it does not collect $200.

Anyway, here's a couple before photos showing a ton of dirt on the hood, and enough salt spray to make Robin cry. :smt119
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3210552_zps36097cdf-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3210553_zps85cbb2fc-1.jpg

Hocus pocus, sim sim sala bim, open sesame, it's fuckin' magic.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3210559_zpsead1722d-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3210556_zps3eb1dac1-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3210560_zps7876eed3-1.jpg

Chemical Guys Trim Gel is still going strong after several washes, snow, and tons of exposure to salt. Nice and dark, no streaking, and beads water. I used it as a tire dressing as well, works pretty well. Gloss was a bit high for my tastes at the time of application, but after a couple washes it's holding up and the gloss has died down just enough.

[Yamazaki]

Holy crap, that's amazing! :smt007



.........please move in with me.

[Thomistopheles]

Slow down, tiger... can't we start out with a nice dinner and movie or something first?

[Wiscon_Mark]

He's married already anyways (just a heads up).

[Thomistopheles]

We can be discreet. My wife doesn't need to know.

:lol:

[Dead91silvia]

Holy crap, that's amazing! :smt007



.........please move in with me.
Slow down, tiger... can't we start out with a nice dinner and movie or something first?
He's married already anyways (just a heads up).
We can be discreet. My wife doesn't need to know.

:lol:

ROFL!!!! :smt005

[amgarrety]

Picture this:
You've finally got a hot date with that girl you've had a crush on for ages. It's springtime, love is in the air. After a spirited drive, you've arrived to pick her up. She's wearing that black dress, tight in all the right places. She opens the passenger door to get into the car... But what's this? A wild stain in your seat, an offensive odor, and a slimy armrest! Disgusted, she leaves and goes out with that guy you hate, crushing your hopes and dreams forever. Rumors start circulating about you. Your friends refuse to hang out and don't return texts or calls. You've committed social suicide! Oh if only you had asked Thomistopheles how to remove that organic stain, properly clean your panels, and eliminate that gym sock smell...

I have absolutely no questions for a detailer, but I think I'm going to start watching this thread. If not to improve my car, to improve my day. :flower:

[bulldozer24]

Just a little bump for Thomistopheles Headlight polish and protection technique. This is after one very salty winter and they still look good even though my camera doesn't do them justice.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/e61c9233773d41f4b3139777a0f35ce0_zpsd12d-1.jpg

I also did a full inside and out detail a week ago. I used m105 and m205 due to Thomistopheles recommendations. However I would recommend m101 over m105, it is much more user friendly and just works better all the way around. But that's just my opinion.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/IMG_0760_zpsf1373a14-1.jpg

[Thomistopheles]

Headlights are looking good. Hell, the whole car looks damn good.

M101 is still on my shopping list, I have a bunch of M105 to use up. Then again, I might just give away the rest of my M105... M101 has a longer working time, cuts better on foam, and finishes better. Menzerna FG400 seems to be getting popular as well, I need to pick some up and test it.

[bulldozer24]

The only problem with m101 is the price, 50 dollars for 32oz! I haven't really looked at Menzerna products lately, I might have to try it out on my sisters 2013 legacy and get some before and after pics up.

Also what kind of DA do you use? I use the meguiars g110v2 with meguiars pads but I was thinking of changing up. What foam pads do you like or recommend, e.g. Lake country, buff & shine, Chemical guys?

[Thomistopheles]

FG400 is about the same price for 32oz, but you can get it in 16/32/128oz bottles. If I wind up getting a large bottle, I could probably bottle some up and mail you a sample.

I have the 3" griots garage DA for bumpers and small areas, but I use a Flex PE-14 rotary and another no-name rotary that I've had for years to do 95% of the work. Can't beat the power and finish of a rotary in experienced hands. I might add a Flex 3401 eventually. Lake Country CCS and Chemical Guys Hex Logic pads are good. Stick to 5.5" and smaller for a DA.

[bulldozer24]

I have never had that much experience with a rotary so I just stick with my DA. That would be great if you could send some fg400, I would return the favor with some m101 when I get some more. I only had a small sample from a friend of mine. But then again I might cant wait, I don't have the most patience when it comes to things I want to try. Ether way I will let you know what I get and my thoughts on it.

Where do you buy your products online from, if you purchase them online

[Thomistopheles]

Whoever has the best sales going, lol. Autogeek.net sometimes does 20% off plus free shipping sales, and they're always rotating products into "buy one get one free." Otherwise I get things from another local detailer, usually gets me 20-30% off whatever Detailed Image is selling it for.

Bottles, buckets, sprayers - USplastic.com

[kimokalihi]

I've really been wanting to shampoo my seats and headliner. There was a couple black marks on my headliner and my seats were pretty dirty. I used some turtle shampoo in a can with brush and it ended up getting the stain out of the headliner but when it dried the whole area that was wet turned into a slightly darker than the rest of the headliner stain.

It worked ok on the seat but could be a lot better. Any tips or products? I was considering a detail shop and the worst part about it is the smell from the shampoo is so strong and is taking weeks to go away.

[Thomistopheles]

Headliners reaaaally don't like being soaked with product... I use steam to clean them, and make sure it stays dry. If I have to use a little diluted all purpose cleaner or other cleaning product, I'll spray it on a 1" boars hair brush and agitate the stain, then dry it immediately by blotting with a towel. You might need to take it to a detailer to get dark spot out of the headliner. They can extract your seats to get them spotless as well, and the shampoo smell should be removed.

[bulldozer24]

what paint sealants do you recommend?

[Thomistopheles]

Blackfire Wet Diamond and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 are both excellent sealants.

The Wolfgang has a warmer, more carnauba-like look compared to the blackfire. I love Blackfire on darker colors, and it looks incredible topped with a good carnauba wax... Souveran, Chemical Guys Pete's 53, Dodo Juice Supernatural, Blackfire Midnight Sun.

Here's my car with three coats of Wolfgang sealant. It really brought out the flake and made the red look warmer than it did when I used Blackfire Wet Diamond.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3280649_zps20c8e0e5-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/P3280641_zpsf3696796-1.jpg

[bulldozer24]

okay thanks, now its time to do some pricing.

[Neatfellen]

Wish I lived closer to Madison... Or u lived closer to Wausau. Would totally hire you to detail my car! All the after shots are amazing!

[Thomistopheles]

Pffft, it's only a 2 hour drive :lol:

If you have a garage and an outlet, I can make it happen... as long as I don't have to lug my hot water extractor all the way up there, lol.

[Neatfellen]

Currently in an apartment with no garage option.. But that will be changing soon. I've vowed to myself that my next apartment will have a garage for the Subie and to house any projects on it I want to start. So much nicer to work on cement with close outlets, than on gravel..

[Thomistopheles]

I have a crappy gravel driveway too. I'm just staying here until I can move out to the Tacoma WA area, where I'll get a place with a decent garage and a yard. Somewhere I can park a Legacy GT-B and live the American dream, hah. All the magic happens in clients' garages or at the shop I work with.

I don't even park in my driveway... When it's not full of snow, it's muddy. When it's not muddy, I still don't want to park there because it'll get my car all dusty. :lol:

[Neatfellen]

haha ik exactly how that is. What could make you want to ditch the few Wisconsin SL-I members here n make u wanna move to WA?

[Thomistopheles]

No salt, no rust, higher pay in my wife's profession, better weather, mountains, ocean, and I have a bunch of friends out west. Madison isn't bad as far as the midwest goes... but I neeeeeed to live in the pacific northwest.

[bulldozer24]

Your just moving because of the high amount of rain fall and you can watch the water bead off your car every day.

[Thomistopheles]

I don't know what you're talking about...

I'm totally not the kind of guy who takes a DSLR out into the rain just because I wanted to get a shot of Collinite 476S beading water 6 months after application...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/IMG_1226_zps580ac25b-1.jpg

Awww dammit, I am that kind of guy aren't I? :smt011

[kimokalihi]

How come tacoma? That place is a nasty city. I live an hour south of tacoma and I avoid it at all costs. How much you charge for a full detail? Maybe I will pay you to do my legacy one day if you move to washington.

[Thomistopheles]

How come tacoma? That place is a nasty city. I live an hour south of tacoma and I avoid it at all costs. How much you charge for a full detail? Maybe I will pay you to do my Accord one day if you move to washington.
Wife works in psych, Western state hospital is there. Who knows where we'll actually live, lol.

Right now my base package is $169. I offer all sorts of services that can be added on to create a package that meets my customer's goals based on the vehicle's condition and what kind of use it sees... 1/2/3 step paint correction, special coatings, engine detailing, headlights, etc.

[kimokalihi]

Nice. Well if you do move let me know.

[Neatfellen]

What options do you offer/ do most often for customers?

[Thomistopheles]

There's two basic kinds of clients/vehicles I work with. Your average Joe's daily driver, and a car enthusiast's pride and joy.

The car enthusiasts will often spring for a two or three step paint correction to achieve 95-100% defect removal ($75 one step, $150 two step, $225 three step), interior steam clean + extraction to deep clean carpet and upholstery ($40), and an engine detail ($40). Opti-coat and other coatings are big with this group as well. They want perfection, and I give it to them.

The average daily driver just needs to be clean, not perfect. They'll almost always add on the interior steam + extraction, kills bacteria and odor from kids and pets. Most interiors really need this to bring the carpet and cloth seats back to life, or get smoke smells out of everything. Some will opt for a one step paint correction to fix light/medium swirl marks, hazing, light oxidation, or holograms and marring from a bad detailer. If they're selling the car soon, a clean engine bay can make all the difference.

[kimokalihi]

So about $300?

[Thomistopheles]

SL-i people don't pay full price. :wink: I'll hook you guys up and treat your car like it's my own... extra coat of paint sealant, and top that with Souveran or Dodo Juice Supernatural wax for a gloss so deep you'll be tempted to dive into your hood.

Base + engine + steam & extraction = $200
Base + engine + steam & extraction + one step correction = $260
Base + engine + steam & extraction + two step correction = $320

Around 20% off.

Factory subaru clear corrects very easily since it's rather soft. That black 2.5RS a few pages back was swirled all to hell, and a one step removed all those defects. Even the AIO product I use in the base package will remove some defects in Subaru clear.

[kimokalihi]

Mine is pretty bad. The last 20 years have been rough on my poor ss. So...hurry up and move on over the PNW! by chance, might you be here before august? :) also, how long does it take?

[Thomistopheles]

Just let me know when you want it done, Neatfellen.

Mine is pretty bad. The last 20 years have been rough on my poor ss. So...hurry up and move on over the PNW! by chance, might you be here before august? :) also, how long does it take?Ha, I wish I were moving that soon. Without inspecting it, somewhere between 8-12 hours is my guess.


New page needs more photos...

Looking forward to getting 89chevondaSI's RS in the shop for a nice spring detail soon.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/_1100225_zps39ddd316-1.jpg

Did a quick rinseless wash and a coat of Wolfgang sealant on a buddy's Teg. Love this sealant.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/P3230620_zps49f83a42-1.jpg

[Dead91silvia]

Not to sure how well you can see them... but, how do you get grease/oil marks out of this kinda stuff? Previous owners did it... Bugs me...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMG_2251_zps7bcfa980-1.jpg

[Thomistopheles]

Robin:

If they're old oil and grease stains, you might not be able to completely remove them.

Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner is a miracle worker. Dilute one part APC to 10 parts water. Vacuum the area, then spray the APC on. Let it work a bit, agitate with a brush, then blot the area with a wet towel. Blot dry with another clean towel. Repeat as needed. Once the oil is gone, you can clean it normally with a hot water extractor/carpet cleaner. If you don't have an extractor you can mix up your cleaning solution in a spray bottle with super hot water. Spray on, then use a wet/dry shop vac to pull it out.

You can also use dish soap (bleach free for obvious reasons!) to break up the oil/grease in a pinch, just make sure you remove all the soap. Another trick you can try is blotting the oil stain with isopropyl alcohol on a white paper towel. Blot from the outside edge of the stain and work your way in.

If any of you guys are looking for a small inexpensive extractor for carpets and upholstery, the Bissel compact Proheat works well and is under $100. A lot more affordable than the giant Mytee I've been using, lol.

[bulldozer24]

I have a question. What do you get when you combine an idiot with a shopping cart and a 2013 legacy?

I know, This!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/68a349f0fab34104a4cb8e85ddd9fc24_zps65e8-1.jpg

Now, what do you get with 2000 grit sandpaper, a DA, compound, polish, and half an hour?

I got this one too.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMG_0763_zps33e2d7b6-1.jpg

Its not perfect but the two scratches left went through the paint and there was nothing i could do about it. But it sure is better than it was.

[Thomistopheles]

Things like that are why I park a million miles away from other cars in parking lots. Nice save!

[Thomistopheles]

I'm still waiting for Optimum Polymer Technologies to release Opti-repel, an advanced hydrophobic polymer coating that repels dirt and shopping carts.

[Dead91silvia]

Robin:

If they're old oil and grease stains, you might not be able to completely remove them.

Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner is a miracle worker. Dilute one part APC to 10 parts water. Vacuum the area, then spray the APC on. Let it work a bit, agitate with a brush, then blot the area with a wet towel. Blot dry with another clean towel. Repeat as needed. Once the oil is gone, you can clean it normally with a hot water extractor/carpet cleaner. If you don't have an extractor you can mix up your cleaning solution in a spray bottle with super hot water. Spray on, then use a wet/dry shop vac to pull it out.

You can also use dish soap (bleach free for obvious reasons!) to break up the oil/grease in a pinch, just make sure you remove all the soap. Another trick you can try is blotting the oil stain with isopropyl alcohol on a white paper towel. Blot from the outside edge of the stain and work your way in.

If any of you guys are looking for a small inexpensive extractor for carpets and upholstery, the Bissel compact Proheat works well and is under $100. A lot more affordable than the giant Mytee I've been using, lol.

Ok cool! These are months old and pretty deep. I have a feeling it wont all come out, but it's not like I can get these floor panels at pick and pull since they are JDM.

I've been wanting to get one of those little steam cleaners since I saw what Slavic did with his WRX seats.

[bulldozer24]

I thought about doing the dr.color chip rather than a spray. So Thomistopheles, would this product work for this scratch, or is it strictly for chips?

[kimokalihi]

I want a da and some compounds and pads to make my car presentable for west coast subaru show in august. Thinking of the porter one that's popular but it comes in tons of different packages of bonus products. How do you decide which to get? I want to make my old paint that's not very shiny look newer again. They're all about $200-$300 and that's fine I'm just lost on the pdocut packages.

[Thomistopheles]

I thought about doing the dr.color chip rather than a spray. So Thomistopheles, would this product work for this scratch, or is it strictly for chips?It'll work for scratches as well. Like any touch up paint, it won't make them invisible but they will be less noticeable.


I want a da and some compounds and pads to make my car presentable for west coast subaru show in august. Thinking of the porter one that's popular but it comes in tons of different packages of bonus products. How do you decide which to get? I want to make my old paint that's not very shiny look newer again. They're all about $200-$300 and that's fine I'm just lost on the pdocut packages.Are you looking at Autogeek.net? They have a billion packages with the porter cable... I'd be confused too, lol.

Take a look at this kit. Porter Cable 7424 Meguiars kit (link) (http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-meguiars-kit.html) It has the DA, 5.5" pads (better suited to a DA than the 6.5" in other kits IMO), compound, polish, and the bonus red pads will let you machine apply wax or sealant. Everything you need, nothing you don't.

Mike Phillips has some great articles HERE (click me) (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/questions-about-porter-cable-7424xp-7424-7336-griot-s-meguiar-s-dual-action-polishers/38399-da-polisher-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html) that will help you get started with a DA. Lots of reading, videos to watch, and good information to soak up before you give it a try. I'm here to answer any questions you have about it.

[Wiscon_Mark]

I love my 7424 DA. Plenty of power, feels well crafted, and I got it on sale for around $110 at Lowes.

[bulldozer24]

Harbor freight has one for 59 but they have coupons for 49
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-variable ... 69924.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html)

Most reviews that I have read love them and heck for that price i have been thinking about getting one. It is the same DA that HD sells but for much less. Also some reviewers said that it had more power than the porter cable but i wouldnt know that to be fact, I have a meguiars g110 v2.

[Wiscon_Mark]

If it is more powerful, I have no idea why it would need to be. I don't usually go much higher than halfway on the speed setting on mine and I can't slow it down very much when I put the pad down hard.

[bulldozer24]

If it is more powerful, I have no idea why it would need to be. I don't usually go much higher than halfway on the speed setting on mine and I can't slow it down very much when I put the pad down hard.

Really? I use mine on speed 5 and 6 regularly, it really helps with defect removal.

As for the power of the harbor freight unit it may be bs but then again it is against the law to lie on the internet ,right? :roll:

[Thomistopheles]

Yeah, 5-6 is where you need to be if you want to get anything done.

DA's in general don't have much power... unless they have forced rotation or long throw. Rotary polishers are king when it comes to power, but you can burn right through the paint if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

[kimokalihi]

Haha I saw a detailer burn a large hole down to the plastic on a brand new mazda3 they had just sold because the salesman wanted a small scufr buffed out real quick.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Really? I use mine on speed 5 and 6 regularly, it really helps with defect removal.

That's basically a little more than halfway on my PC. Maybe yours is different?

[Thomistopheles]

It happened in about 3 seconds of buffing. Not enough compound methinks and too much pressure.Stayed in one spot waaay to long, and probably cranked the speed way up, too. Rotaries generate more heat than DAs, just a part of how they move. If you stay in one spot, push down too hard, and crank the speed way up.... you're going to burn right through. If you know and respect the rotary, you'll correct paint faster than with a DA and achieve a better finish IMO.

Mark, don't be afraid to go full throttle with it. Lower speeds are fine for applying waxes, but you need to crank your 7424 up to 5-6 and apply 10-15lbs downward pressure when working with compound and polish. Put a line on your backing plate so you can visually confirm that the pad is still rotating... if it isn't, ease up pressure a bit.

[Neatfellen]

How did you get into detailing anyway? previous job? or just learned from loving and treating ur cars very special with all the paint correction and everything you know? spawn from being OCD about ur cars exterior possibly? lol

[Thomistopheles]

My love for detailing was forged in the early years of my childhood... polishing my dad's 1970 Mustang Mach 1's wheels and helping him prep for car shows.

[camroncamera]

My love for detailing was forged in the early years of my childhood... polishing my dad's 1970 Mustang Mach 1's wheels and helping him prep for car shows.

I have an old school friend who had a '70 Mustang coupe (not fastback) during our high school days, and that has ever since been my favorite year/style of the classic Stangs. :smt023

[Neatfellen]

My love for detailing was forged in the early years of my childhood... polishing my dad's 1970 Mustang Mach 1's wheels and helping him prep for car shows.
Yup, that would definitely do the trick.. no wonder ur so into it.

[Dead91silvia]

It happened in about 3 seconds of buffing. Not enough compound methinks and too much pressure.Stayed in one spot waaay to long, and probably cranked the speed way up, too. Rotaries generate more heat than DAs, just a part of how they move. If you stay in one spot, push down too hard, and crank the speed way up.... you're going to burn right through. If you know and respect the rotary, you'll correct paint faster than with a DA and achieve a better finish IMO.

Mark, don't be afraid to go full throttle with it. Lower speeds are fine for applying waxes, but you need to crank your 7424 up to 5-6 and apply 10-15lbs downward pressure when working with compound and polish. Put a line on your backing plate so you can visually confirm that the pad is still rotating... if it isn't, ease up pressure a bit.
Haha I saw a detailer burn a large hole down to the plastic on a brand new mazda3 they had just sold because the salesman wanted a small scufr buffed out real quick.

It can also happen on random cars also. I took some off of the GT-B but I'm also going to repair the rear so I didnt care. haha... If it's a scratch down to the plastic, then I stay away from it, unless I just dont care.

But yeah, it can ripe right off if you dont do it just right. My dad burned the paint on his 67 Volvo 122 when I was teaching him. Mind you, the paint is shit and is not saveable, but it was the best for me to teach him on.

[Thomistopheles]

Well, if we're talking rotaries... I used a rotary on this rotary wagon:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/P4080635_zps2e1506bf-1.jpg

and turned that oxidized mess into a beautiful rare beast:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/P4140744_zpse8e0eb8d-1.jpg

Of course, all the paint correction and opti-coat in the world didn't stop it from blowing the apex seals. Silly rotaries :roll:
Still waiting for the owner to drop in his new engine so I can wash it and get a good photoshoot done.

A rotary polisher is direct drive... that pad isn't slowing down, not stopping, and it'll rip off anything in its way. I learned on practice panels acquired from body shops and my wife's old Sunfire that had clear coat failure on the hood. Can't just pick one up and dive right into a viper :lol:

[kimokalihi]

Can this type of thing be restored? Sun-faded interior plastics. And how do I get that velcro adhesive off? Goo-gone didn't get it off.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/13651915730000-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/13651915962141-1.jpg

[Thomistopheles]

Can this type of thing be restored? Sun-faded interior plastics. And how do I get that velcro adhesive off? Goo-gone didn't get it off.The adhesive is going to need to be soaked in a solvent to get it soft again. There's a 3M adhesive remover that is safe on vinyl, try using that to liquefy the adhesive.

Clean the plastic with Meguiars APC and a stiff brush to remove any grunge and oxidation on the surface. You can try a trim restorer/dressing to darken it after cleaning, or just pull it off and paint.

[Grimmrican]

How do I demagnetize my car so these damn broads stop leaving their streaks of juices on my car?! It's really getting to be annoying. Idk what's worse. Wash ur car and then it rains or wash ur car and a moment later have clam juice all over it. Wtf I need help plz !!!

[chrish8r]

A guy in my local Subaru group is talking about this product called Ceracoat. Have you heard of this one before or ever used it?

http://usa.ceracoatdirect.com/index.php ... &Itemid=63 (http://usa.ceracoatdirect.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=25&category_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=63&lang=en&vmcchk=1&Itemid=63)

[bulldozer24]

A guy in my local Subaru group is talking about this product called Ceracoat. Have you heard of this one before or ever used it?

http://usa.ceracoatdirect.com/index.php ... &Itemid=63 (http://usa.ceracoatdirect.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=25&category_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=63&lang=en&vmcchk=1&Itemid=63)

I have never used this product but just reading the application instructions makes me not want to buy it. Opticoat 2.0's application is much more straight forward and would make the price difference worth it.

[Thomistopheles]

How do I demagnetize my car so these damn broads stop leaving their streaks of juices on my car?! It's really getting to be annoying. Idk what's worse. Wash ur car and then it rains or wash ur car and a moment later have clam juice all over it. Wtf I need help plz !!!You know how a freshly waxed car seems to attract dust sometimes? It's due to a static charge. Try something like Chemical Guys M-seal anti-static paint sealant. That should cut down on dust and broad attraction, and if any clam juice gets on there it'll keep it protected. Nobody wants their car getting the clap or the herp, so make sure your car has protection at all times.



A guy in my local Subaru group is talking about this product called Ceracoat. Have you heard of this one before or ever used it?

http://usa.ceracoatdirect.com/index.php ... &Itemid=63 (http://usa.ceracoatdirect.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=25&category_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=63&lang=en&vmcchk=1&Itemid=63)

I have never used this product but just reading the application instructions makes me not want to buy it. Opticoat 2.0's application is much more straight forward and would make the price difference worth it.Yeah, never heard of it. Stick to Opti-coat, G|techniq, or 22ple VX1 glass coat.

[kimokalihi]

Just bought a whole bunch of protection. Let's see if I'm any good at this. In the past its all been done by hand, hopefully this da polisher will cut down on some of the fatigue and time.

[bulldozer24]

Just bought a whole bunch of protection. Let's see if I'm any good at this. In the past its all been done by hand, hopefully this da polisher will cut down on some of the fatigue and time.

what DA did you end up getting?

[kimokalihi]

7424xp the same one that was linked above. Can't wait to get it!

[Wiscon_Mark]

In the past its all been done by hand, hopefully this da polisher will cut down on some of the fatigue and time.

I found it so much easier even with wiping excess down by hand because of the way the DA polisher works everything in nice and even. You waste less and do less work at the same time, it's great!

[kimokalihi]

Nice. I've always wanted one and someday a rotary as well. Now I have to figure out what multimeter to buy so I can diagnose my tps issue. Want a good unit that will literally last forever.

[Thomistopheles]

Just finished cleaning some Siberian Husky nose art off my apartment's windows.

Meguiars D120 is an excellent glass cleaner, I use nothing else... but I might have to find another product to use in my home. It's rather counterproductive when I clean husky nose smudges off the windows, and then he comes around to investigate the grape kool aid smell... and smudges them back up while sniffing.

[Grimmrican]

The previous owner (old man) was a subie enthusiast and loved the BE I own now but it seems as he got it detailed and it went wrong at one point. Seems like very small cracks in the pain under the clear coat. At first it didn't voter me but its starting to eat at me. Is there a fix mr. Detailing god??
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/0DEED8B3696A45FB93802D04A8587D8642500000-1.jpghttps://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/3E73FB11B7874A75B1AAD6E3DC9E84DB42500000-1.jpghttps://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/B1B9CC2203374653BBECB99C8B1C5E7442500000-1.jpg

[Thomistopheles]

On another note the previous owner (old man) was a subie enthusiast and loved the BE I own now but it seems as he got it detailed and it went wrong at one point. Seems like very small cracks in the pain under the clear coat. At first it didn't voter me but its starting to eat at me. Is there a fix mr. Detailing god??]Yes, there's a fix for that!


Unfortunately the fix is a respray. That's clear coat failure... give it some time and it'll spread and then start flaking/peeling off.

[Grimmrican]

On another note the previous owner (old man) was a subie enthusiast and loved the BE I own now but it seems as he got it detailed and it went wrong at one point. Seems like very small cracks in the pain under the clear coat. At first it didn't voter me but its starting to eat at me. Is there a fix mr. Detailing god??]Yes, there's a fix for that!


Unfortunately the fix is a respray. That's clear coat failure... give it some time and it'll spread and then start flaking/peeling off.so should I wait until it starts flaking or get it resprayed before it does?

[Thomistopheles]

Same work goes into if either way... just depends on how long you want to look at a dying paint job.

Subies are meant to be whatever you want them to be. Muddy, clean, whatever you want. You won't see me doing flat spins in mud, and you won't see our off roaders spending 20 hours correcting paint. :wink:

[camroncamera]

On another note the previous owner (old man) was a subie enthusiast and loved the BE I own now but it seems as he got it detailed and it went wrong at one point. Seems like very small cracks in the pain under the clear coat. At first it didn't voter me but its starting to eat at me. Is there a fix mr. Detailing god??
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s41/ ... 8bbebd.jpg (http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s41/kingbiz360/0DEED8B3-696A-45FB-9380-2D04A8587D86-425-0000000F0B5B0910_zps7a8bbebd.jpg)
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s41/ ... ee072d.jpg (http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s41/kingbiz360/3E73FB11-B787-4A75-B1AA-D6E3DC9E84DB-425-0000000EF050EA18_zps23ee072d.jpg)
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s41/ ... 8cb5f2.jpg (http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s41/kingbiz360/B1B9CC22-0337-4653-BBEC-B99C8B1C5E74-425-0000000EFA3010A1_zps9a8cb5f2.jpg)

Yeah my hood has looked like that since I got it (see page 1), though I don't think it's gotten any worse in the two-and-a-half years since we got it. I want to get it repainted.

[Grimmrican]

I had the car for about 2 months now. And like I said it didn't bother me at first bit now it's starting to eat at me. I'm sure ill get over it soon enough lol

[kimokalihi]

My windshield wipers are squeaking and streaking. They started doing it only a month or less after buying them and they're the bosch icon wipers which are expensive. They usually last a year. I think my windshield maybe has sap on it or some other grime or buildup.

Is there a cure for this? The noise is driving me crazy. Is there a product to treat the rubber on the blades?

[Thomistopheles]

You can clay glass the same as paint to remove bonded contaminants. Stoner tarminator or isopropyl alcohol can take care of sap. Let me get back to you on the wipers... I have an idea, just want to check with a few other detailers to get their take on it.

[bulldozer24]

you can rub the wipers with IPA to remove stuck on contaminates and make them last longer. I have done it for years with my wipers.

[Grimmrican]

Best product I've known to use is alcohol pads on the blades But If u just got those Bosch icon wipers I know for a fact there is a 90 day warranty. So just go grab urself a new pair and warranty out it old one (defective exchange) I did this last month at work and now brand new with no streaks or songs lol. Just be sure to keep ur window free from any debris and sand.

[Thomistopheles]

Yep sounds like ipa is the way to go. I was just checking to see if anyone had used 303's wiper treatment and find out if it's any good. No dice.

[kimokalihi]

Thanks ill get on that. After a good cleaning I will rainx the windshield. That brought new life to my wipers on my other car. I certainly don't have the receipt, how did you warranty them?

[Muse]

you can rub the wipers with IPA to remove stuck on contaminates and make them last longer. I have done it for years with my wipers.
IPA? Like, beer? India Pale Ale?

[Thomistopheles]

Yep. A good doppelbock will work too.

Isopropyl alcohol :P

[Neatfellen]

I'll have to invest in some. Already have the Rain-X coating. (took back the 2in1 Rain-X wiper fluid per the reviews of a few people here of it leaving a nasty film on the windshield.)

[Muse]

Isopropyl alcohol :P
Ah. That makes sense. Tastes about the same, too.

[kimokalihi]

Haha no way! IPA's are the bomb. I found a potential solution here: http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-deta ... itons.html (http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/113994-glass-polishing-lake-country-glass-polishing-kit-reivew-instrucitons.html)

[Muse]

BAH, I say! You should not be able to see what's on the other side of your beer.

[Thomistopheles]

^ this man speaks the truth

[Muse]

I'm going to go have a beer now. O great detailer... Guinness or Sam Adams Cream Stout?

[Thomistopheles]

Drink both, my son. The detailer has spoken!

I'd go with the sam adams cream stout first.

[Grimmrican]

Thanks ill get on that. After a good cleaning I will rainx the windshield. That brought new life to my wipers on my other car. I certainly don't have the receipt, how did you warranty them?i had my receipt XD

[Neatfellen]

so the icon wipers have a 90 day warranty? And if they get streaky u just take em back into the parts store u got em at with ur receipt? (I have mine still lol)

[Grimmrican]

Shotgun? They're in bottles! Glass bottles!figure it out man or ill drink it on u!!

[Grimmrican]

so the icon wipers have a 90 day warranty? And if they get streaky u just take em back into the parts store u got em at with ur receipt? (I have mine still lol)yup take it aap and ask u want a defective exchange and that their not even a month old. Hopefully that's where u bought the wipers lol.

[Thomistopheles]

Forgot my camera... again. Luckily my new phone has a decent camera.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/DSC_0005_zps334b39e3-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/DSC_0010_zps0f30862c-1.jpg

Husky hair removed from carpet and upholstery via black magic and a virgin sacrifice
Seats removed, vacuumed, spot treated with D101 4:1
Carpet vacuumed, stains pretreated
Hot water extractor and D103 for ALLLL the things
Plastic, vinyl, rubber cleaned with D101 APC 10:1
Dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant
Glass cleaned with D120 glass cleaner
Front Husky Liner mats cleaned with D101 10:1
Headrests casually tossed in the back because my extractor started acting up :lol:

Total of 5 somewhat lazy hours... a couple dr pepper breaks, dicking around and shooting the sh*t with the installers at the shop. The hair removal took a little over an hour by itself.

Oh, and a gear shot for scheisse und giggles.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/DSC_0009_zpsc264b16f-1.jpg

[Grimmrican]

Forgot my camera... again. Luckily my new phone has a decent camera.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/DSC_0005_zps334b39e3-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/DSC_0010_zps0f30862c-1.jpg

Husky hair removed from carpet and upholstery via black magic and a virgin sacrifice
Seats removed, vacuumed, spot treated with D101 4:1
Carpet vacuumed, stains pretreated
Hot water extractor and D103 for ALLLL the things
Plastic, vinyl, rubber cleaned with D101 APC 10:1
Dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant
Glass cleaned with D120 glass cleaner
Front Husky Liner mats cleaned with D101 10:1
Headrests casually tossed in the back because my extractor started acting up :lol:

Total of 5 somewhat lazy hours... a couple dr pepper breaks, dicking around and shooting the sh*t with the installers at the shop. The hair removal took a little over an hour by itself.

Oh, and a gear shot for scheisse und giggles.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/DSC_0009_zpsc264b16f-1.jpgdamn she's clean. Come over to my place and detail my baby plz!!! And I'm context cluing that what u said in German means shits and giggles??

[kimokalihi]

I keep thinking of more and more detailing questions! It never ends.

How do you take care of matte paint? More specifically matte wheels. I kind of asked this before but I found a couple interesting products I'd like your opinion on. I want to keep them from getting dirty so fast and resist buildup of brake dust and dirt. I saw a video on youtube when watching opti-coat 2.0 videos on a guy who did his wheels with opti-coat 2.0. He didn't wash them for a month and they cleaned up extremely effortlessly and still beaded and water alid off with ease. These were not matte wheelz so I was wondering if opti-coat will provide the same protection for matte wheels?

Then I found dr.beasleys matte paint product line and they sell a few matte wheel products. Which should I use or is there something better? Cleaning these wheels has not been easy and I've only done 1 so far haha.

[Thomistopheles]

Opticoat will add some gloss to a matte surface. Not high gloss like paint, but not totally matte anymore. I'd coat them, even if it adds a little gloss. It's worth it when you can pretty much rinse brake dust right off.

I've never had a problem using P21s or Sonax wheel cleaner. Use minimal gentle agitation with boars hair brushes, do not let the product dry on the wheel, rinse thoroughly, and dry with compressed air so you don't get spots. Chemical Guys makes a wash soap and a spray detailer for matte paint and wraps, Meticulous Matte, and it has worked well the few times I've had to use it. I'll use it on matte wheels that are fairly clean to begin with, or after cleaning with Sonax. I haven't heard much about any of the Dr. Beasley's products.

[kimokalihi]

Awesome. I think I'll give it a shot. Is it necessary to use a wheel cleaner made specifically for matte paint? I've already purchased a couple bottles of sonus wheel cleaner. I put two coats of mothers cleaner wax on the one wheel I cleaned already and it looks good. Didn't make it shiny but it made it look about the same as when they were brand new. That wax needs to come off now before applying opti-coat, correct? And the best method of removal is 15% IPA?

[kimokalihi]

Washed and 2 coats of wax. Basically haven't had a real cleaning since new....20,000 miles ago... :shock:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMG_20130404_131757-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMG_20130409_085748-1.jpg




Here they are new.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMG_1818-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMG_1816-1.jpg

[thenines']

Just finished cleaning some Siberian Husky nose art off my apartment's windows.

Meguiars D120 is an excellent glass cleaner, I use nothing else... but I might have to find another product to use in my home. It's rather counterproductive when I clean husky nose smudges off the windows, and then he comes around to investigate the grape kool aid smell... and smudges them back up while sniffing. I love clean pet people-gives us a good name :cool: Now-bring on the sheading season!

[Thomistopheles]

Noooo, no more shedding! I've had enough for one spring already :lol:

[Thomistopheles]

Yeah, but he is supposed to blow his coat once in the spring and once in the fall. That warm streak this winter tricked him into blowing his coat, then it got cold so it came back in... now it's spring, and he blew his coat again.

If anybody is looking for a good method to remove hair from carpet... blow the car out with compressed air and use a pumice stone to pull the hair out and sweep it toward your vacuum. Keep it away from plastic, vinyl, leather, etc. for obvious reasons. It's the fastest and most effective method I know for cleaning up after someone's Mr. Precious Pinky Poodles McSheddington... or in my case, Woden von Huskybutt.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/b6033687-1.jpg

[Muse]

How old is he?

[Thomistopheles]

He'll be 2 years in August.

[Felipe]

Tail light small cracking... Fixable or needs to be replaced... Pictures up in a lil bit

[Muse]

So... I just looked at my old Neon for the first time in, like 4 months. SOMEONE, it seems, *coughneighborschildrencough* likes to climb into cars to play around and not close the doors right.

How do I get rid of mold/mildew in my car? Apart from stripping it and starting anew?

Because I don't feel up to doing an engine/trans swap on this thing just yet, and that's waiting at the bottom of that slippery slope. You know, the one that starts with me seeing my beloved zippy little runabout with a racecar interior.
Mmmm... High-comp 2.0 DOHC mated to a dog-ring 5-speed...
Or a Talon TSi drivetrain swap... 250hp AWD Neon coupe anyone?

[Thomistopheles]

So... I just looked at my old Neon for the first time in, like 4 months. SOMEONE, it seems, *coughneighborschildrencough* likes to climb into cars to play around and not close the doors right.

How do I get rid of mold/mildew in my car? Apart from stripping it and starting anew?Oooooh boy. I'm going to have to write a fairly long post on this one. This is a graphic description... but I'd rather clean up after someone who projectile vomited all over and simultaneously pissed their pants and had a bloody shart in the back seat, than clean up a moldy interior. OK, maybe I'm exaggerating... but mold is nasty stuff. Wear gloves and a respirator at all times. Nobody wants a mold spore party in your lungs.

Writing long post, check back soon.

Tail light small cracking... Fixable or needs to be replaced... Pictures up in a lil bitAny cracks or fine "crazing" in the taillight lens will require replacement.

[Thomistopheles]

Weeeeell maybe the post won't be too long... I've written and rewritten this post about 10 times now, trying to condense things down to the basics... but there's a thread on autopia that illustrates the process better than I can.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag ... ement.html (http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/112826-1979-mercedes-450sl-complete-interior-mold-abatement.html)

You don't need to use the exact products that David Fermani used in that thread. Shurhold Moldaway is and enzyme cleaner, great for carpet, vinyl, plastic, and fabric. Boat supply shops might carry similar products... I know 3M has some in their marine product lineup. I would use 1z Einszett Klima-cleaner for the HVAC system.

You'll want to pull everything apart... and there's still not a 100% guarantee that you'll remove all the mold. Hopefully it's not too bad.

[Muse]

It seems to be only on the plastic and vinyl.
Also, though that link helps, I have cloth seats... how should I deal with them? seats out, covers off, do as it says for carpet?

[Thomistopheles]

Same as carpet, just use a softer brush when agitating and make sure you're not soaking the padding too much. I bet it is hiding on more surfaces than just the plastic and vinyl, soooo....

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/responsibility12alternatepng-1.jpg

[Muse]

Starting to think It would be easier to pull all cloth and carpet bits and use a rapid oxidation method* on it, then follow the link for the plastic and vinyl stuff.













*set it on fire

[Thomistopheles]

Make sure you invite your neighbors over for the bonfire.

Maybe give them a gentle nudge into it

[bulldozer24]

well I was buffing my 2006 ford f150 yesterday, and what a hassle. I was using M105 and lake country ccs pads on my g110v2 and I got crazy dusting every where. I don't know if it was the weather or just the paint type that caused this because i had used it on my subaru with no issues. It was also crazy hard to get off, I was even forced to using IPA to get it off. I really need to get some M101, or whatever you would recommend for ford paint.

[Thomistopheles]

You can mix meguiars d300 with m105 to reduce dusting and extend working time. Cheaper than m101. I can deal with the obnoxious dusting... it's the short working time of straight M105 that drives me nuts. Great with wool, huge pain in the ass with foam.

[redlegacygt]

so this may be a dumb question, but how much product do you use when doing one section and moving to the next...in other words, when i'm done with a 2x2 sq ft section, when i move to the next, am i putting another small dab on to do the next section? I never know whether i'm using too much or too little...

[02_Legacy]

I am wondering what is the easiest way to clean brake dust off of rims. Is there any product that i can spray on, wait 5mins then rinse off? I have a hard time keeping my rims clean because I don't have the time to sit there and get a brush into every little corner, and the corners are where the dust likes to sit. So far I have not found anything that works very good on brake dust. Any advice?

[Muse]

I am wondering what is the easiest way to clean brake dust off of rims. Is there any product that i can spray on, wait 5mins then rinse off? I have a hard time keeping my rims clean because I don't have the time to sit there and get a brush into every little corner, and the corners are where the dust likes to sit. So far I have not found anything that works very good on brake dust. Any advice?
In this same vein, is there something you can apply beforehand that keeps it from sticking so bad in the first place?

[Thomistopheles]

so this may be a dumb question, but how much product do you use when doing one section and moving to the next...in other words, when i'm done with a 2x2 sq ft section, when i move to the next, am i putting another small dab on to do the next section? I never know whether i'm using too much or too little...Varies from product to product, some go a long way. 4 pea sized drops on the pad per section will do it. For compound and polish I usually lay down a 6-8" strip on the panel and pick it up using the 10° at 10:00 technique rather than putting the product on the pad.


I am wondering what is the easiest way to clean brake dust off of rims. Is there any product that i can spray on, wait 5mins then rinse off? I have a hard time keeping my rims clean because I don't have the time to sit there and get a brush into every little corner, and the corners are where the dust likes to sit. So far I have not found anything that works very good on brake dust. Any advice?If the brake dust is thick and baked on, you'll have to agitate the wheel cleaner with a brush... no way around it. Look into Sonax wheel cleaner. It's an excellent wheel cleaner, safe for all finishes, and it'll break down the bonded iron particles from the brake dust. It's the closest you'll get to a product than can be sprayed on and rinsed off.


In this same vein, is there something you can apply beforehand that keeps it from sticking so bad in the first place?Wheel wax will help. Opti-coat is magic on wheels, the brake dust has a very hard time sticking to the coating at all and often rinses right off.

[02_Legacy]

If the brake dust is thick and baked on, you'll have to agitate the wheel cleaner with a brush... no way around it. Look into Sonax wheel cleaner. It's an excellent wheel cleaner, safe for all finishes, and it'll break down the bonded iron particles from the brake dust. It's the closest you'll get to a product than can be sprayed on and rinsed off.

was just looking at product videos on youtube and it looks like it may work for me. I will order some and try it. I will report back when I try it out. Thanks Thom!

[camroncamera]

If the brake dust is thick and baked on, you'll have to agitate the wheel cleaner with a brush... no way around it. Look into Sonax wheel cleaner. It's an excellent wheel cleaner, safe for all finishes, and it'll break down the bonded iron particles from the brake dust. It's the closest you'll get to a product than can be sprayed on and rinsed off.

was just looking at product videos on youtube and it looks like it may work for me. I will order some and try it. I will report back when I try it out. Thanks Thom!

Here ya go, lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfUaKXasdD4

[98legwag]

I just bought a 6 pack of Sonax from detailersdomain.com. It came to about $10 per bottle.

[Thomistopheles]

I buy it in 5L bottles, two at a time. Works out to $7/500ml. You guys should definitely jump on the deal at Detailers Domain though, it's a killer price.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Sonax-Fu ... p_716.html (http://www.detailersdomain.com/Sonax-Full-Effect-Wheel-Cleaner-4-plus-2-FREE_p_716.html)

[bulldozer24]

I Finally broke down and bought m101.

Auto detailing solutions has m101 on sale for 45 and 10% off with coupon VIP10.

[98legwag]

The code "newbie" will get you 15% off at detailersdomain.com

[Thomistopheles]

Bumping with headlight porn:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/P5210905_zpse4af071ajpgoriginal-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/P5210906_zpsb22a363ejpgoriginal-1.jpg

I've been running a Madison Subaru Meet Headlight Restoration Super Ultra Mega Extravaganza Sale for the last week up through the meet on June 9th. Soooo maaaany heaaaadliiiights...

[Thomistopheles]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/BeforeAfter_zps77278604jpgoriginal-1.jpg

CLICK ME for appropriate music while viewing this thread! (http://youtu.be/ns510OqKgKA)

[Thomistopheles]

^The god has spoken. Now I must do as told lolIf you're doing the compound & polish by hand, wetsand up to 3000 grit. It'll make it easier to cut through the sanding marks with the compound. You should be able to get Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish locally, those can be used in place of the M105/D300 mix and the M205.

I have a DIY guide for headlights here on SL-i, it contains info on a urethane coating that can be used to protect the lenses. I use Opti-lens now because it's easier and faster to apply, and it looks better IMO, but the urethane holds up very well if you do it right.

[98legwag]

It may have been asked here before. What do you use to clean and treat the dashboard and door cards? And what would be something a little less pricey that works well too?

[Thomistopheles]

Whoops, thought I replied to this before I left for my alignment this morning. I use Meguiars D101 all purpose cleaner diluted 10:1 for cleaning the dash and doors. It's under $20 for a gallon of concentrate, and it's something that has a million uses. Everyone should have some APC on hand. For protection, I like 303 Aerospace Protectant. Meguiars natural shine protectant will do the job too, if you can't find the 303 stuff. Sometimes hot tub/pool supply places carry it because it's also used for spa covers. 303 is also my product of choice for most convertible tops. Highly recommend it.

[rkrenicki]

So, here is a question. I cannot seem to keep my front inside door handles clean. I have tried cleaning them with various products which clean it for a short time, but it comes back pretty quickly.

I do not think that it is just dirt on my hands, because I would expect to see it on the steering wheel or shift selector since I touch them more often than the door.. What can I do for this, and what can I do to prevent it?

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/IMG_20130523_090640_zps0be4810a.jpg

[Thomistopheles]

Cleaning it gets rid of it 100%, no trace remaining, then it comes back? That's odd. What have you tried using in the past?


More bonus headlight porn, this time from a SL-i member's car (89chevondaSI's RS):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/BeforeAFter_zps42d706bbjpgoriginal-1.jpg

Split open, orange bits removed, holes shaved, housing blacked out, resealed, then my usual process for the lens exterior.

[rkrenicki]

Cleaning it gets rid of it 100%, no trace remaining, then it comes back? That's odd. What have you tried using in the past?
.


Well, I cannot say that it is gone 100%.. But at least I clean it until it is no longer visible. I suppose it could be some thing sticky/tacky that I am not fully removing..

I have tried a few random car interior cleaners, and the last attempt was with a microfiber with some mothers quick detailing spray on it. That seemed to clear it up for the longest amount of time, but alas.. It has returned.

[Thomistopheles]

If you can hit it with a steam cleaner, that'd be the way to go... if not, try using an all purpose cleaner like Meguiars D101 or Optimum Power Clean. If that doesn't take care of the problem, try hitting it with 3m adhesive remover. Dress/condition after you're done.

[Neatfellen]

so... God of detailing and exteriors... What black magic do u have of keeping bird sh!t off my car or at least make it easier to get off when it does get on there? Lol something that just kills any bird b4 it craps on the car will also work ;) lol

[Thomistopheles]

so... God of detailing and exteriors... What black magic do u have of keeping bird sh!t off my car or at least make it easier to get off when it does get on there? Lol something that just kills any bird b4 it craps on the car will also work ;) lol
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/51663_zps4dc29760-1.jpg

:lol:

Seriously though... make sure you've got good wax or sealant on the paint. That'll help protect it... bird sh#t is acidic, and will etch into your paint. The sooner you remove it, the better. Here's a write up by Mike Philips that shows how to remove bird sh#t without scratching or marring the paint when you can't wash it. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how ... pping.html (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/23231-how-safely-remove-dried-bird-dropping.html)

[Wiscon_Mark]

If you already have the bird shit on your paint, isoprophyl alcohol removes it quite easily.

[bulldozer24]

Nice, Mosseberg 590A1, the military spec bird repellant.

[Thomistopheles]

Isopropyl alcohol will strip your wax and provides zero lubrication.

[Thomistopheles]

Figures, all this talk about bird sh#t... Washed my car due to bird crap before going down to Keaton's house. Then it rained. Delivered headlights. Drove home to grab some mounts I forgot. Bird crapped on my car. Cleaned it. Drove back down, installed headlights, did some grille modding. Stopped to get gas on my way home, bird crapped on my car. :smt019

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/P5260990_zps758017d1jpgoriginal-1.jpg

[kimokalihi]

Birds live to crap on cars.

[Thomistopheles]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/05/427244_476079549114492_507562619_n_zpsc9-1.jpg

[Muse]

My dash is really REALLY bad at collecting dust and pollen. Should I just use Armor All wipes or is there some Magic-Known-Only-To-Thomistopheles-Super-Awesome-Dust-Repellant-Stuff that I can get?

[Thomistopheles]

Grab some Meguiars quick interior detailer and wipe it down every couple days to keep it clean. Use it with a microfiber towel, they trap the dust in the fibers instead of just pushing it around. Armor All is really greasy, and anything greasy will make that dust stick.

I haul my husky around, have the windows down a lot, have a gravel driveway, and I'm right next to train tracks... so I'm constantly wiping off the dash.

[Yamazaki]

How about restoration of beaten colored leather seats that are losing their color? How do I go about doing that?

[Thomistopheles]

I've used Leatherique to redye BMW and mercedes seats, worked great and the dye was a perfect match.

http://www.leatherique.com/

Instead of doing just a spot, I mask it off at a seam and do the entire section. This way I don't have to blend the repair into the panel and the repair isn't obvious. I don't think they have formulas for subaru dyes, so you may have to send in a part for them to color match.

[Yamazaki]

Will that also fix the cracking of the leather or does it just paint over it?

[EDIT: nevermind, I read more than just the first page of the link and got my answer]

[Thomistopheles]

They have a crack filler you can use before the redye, but I'm not sure if that would work on a seat. I would give them a call and see what they say about it.

[Yamazaki]

Okay, will do. Thanks!

[Odycee]

Any thoughts on Adam's detailing polish and spray?
http://www.adamspolishes.com/

[Thomistopheles]

I haven't used them, but I haven't heard anything bad about them on the detailing forums so I'm sure they do the job just fine.

[kimokalihi]

^ there are detailing forums?! You learn something every day lol.

Lol there's a forum or two or twenty for everything these days. Autogeek.net is a good one however I don't like how they don't allow selling on their forum simply because it takes away from sales of their website but they're paying for the forum so who could blame them.

However, if you like having money in the bank stay away from the detailing forums!

[Thomistopheles]

It gets washed again. I have a bird sh#t kit in the car for normal sized bird related emergencies.

I'm about to go detail 89chevondaSI's 2.5RS, a full balls to the wall detail in preparation for the big Madison Subaru Meet next weekend. Wheels off, debadging the trunk, 2 step correction & Opti-coat... awwww yeaaaaaah

[Wiscon_Mark]

Okay, I pruned a few posts here.

New rule in this thread:

Let's keep it on topic. Having fun is OK, but I want this thread to stay fairly clean for Thom as it's his wealth of information on display.

The cleaner it stays, the more useful it is to go back to in the future which is really the point of these forums.

Thanks,

Management

[Thomistopheles]

Thanks Mark. :smt023

The RS is coming along nicely. I have the car ready for finishing polish, and then it will be getting Wolfgang sealant (instead of Opti-coat) for now. I wasn't certain I had enough opticoat to do his wheels and paint, so we're going to put in another session later on.

I have some hands on experience with the Harbor Freight DA polisher now. My rotary's bearings started shitting out less than half way through the detail, so I picked up the HF DA. It vibrates enough to tickle my hands and forearms, might just be more noticeable since I'm used to a rotary gliding over the paint smoothly. Power was decent, it had no issues tackling the defects in the 2.5RS's paint. The power switch is a bit awkward at first. Overall, I would have no problem recommending it to a weekend warrior who wants to apply wax or remove swirls every once in a while. I wouldn't want to use it all day every day as a professional, but it will make a fine backup/secondary polisher.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/P6010994vert_zps175781a2jpgoriginal-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/P6011004_zps83a95a46jpgoriginal-1.jpg

Should look minty after finishing polish is done and LSP is applied! :grin:

Subaru clear is always an adventure... some cars need M105 on a light cutting pad to get any real correction. Some, you can one-step with M205 on a polishing pad. This thing? It's so soft and sticky that M205 on a polishing pad leaves haze, so I have to follow up with an even less aggressive combo to clean it up and restore clarity after defect removal.

[thenines']

We had a car in our shop (toyota) that had a water leak-they had to replace the entire interior-seat covers/carpet/headliner-and the mold smell was still there-found out it was growing in the rubber undercoating between the carpet and the floorboards-what a mess!

[camroncamera]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/P6011004_zps83a95a46jpgoriginal-1.jpg


Looks awesome, and I think I spot some Strobist action goin' on! I really appreciate that you not only make the cars you work on look awesome, but you know how to capture that awesomeness in a photograph as well :)

[Grimmrican]

Damn is that a new chrome paint finish?? Look at that reflection :0

[Thomistopheles]

Strobist 500w halogen action, lol. I have another 4hrs into the paint today so far. Home stretch!

[Thomistopheles]

Alright... so by "another 4 hours" I apparently meant 8 hours. :lol: I finished up at 11:00 tonight.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/DSC_0037_zps05c9cfb4jpgoriginal-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/DSC_0056_zpsb9f8842djpgoriginal-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/DSC_0041_zpsecb433f9jpgoriginal-1.jpg

Sorry for the cell phone photos, I'll get some good ones soon.

This car was a 20 hour adventure. The car has had some repairs done in the past, so the clear hardness varied from "normal" to "are you serious, Subaru?" Most panels had incredibly soft and sticky Subaru clear, the kind that gets marred and scratched if a gentle breeze rolls in or if you look at it funny. M205 and a white polishing pad left the panels hazed. Yes, that's right... the stuff I usually use to remove compounding haze was leaving haze. My solution was to use a gray finishing pad (less cut than the white polishing pad) and Optimum GPS, an all in one polish/sealant product. This combination had just enough bite to get the job done, and restored clarity to the finish. I topped it off with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 for protection. We plan to give the car a once-over and opti-coat it later in the summer, since it is much harder than the 2.5RS paint and will have much better scratch resistance.



Damn dude UR a god amongst us in detailing. Do how much to bring U out here and detail my car in ct? LolI can't really travel right now...otherwise it'd be my usual rates plus travel expenses. I might be coming out east next year, though.

[Thomistopheles]

No details or headlights today... I planned on lounging around the house doing nothing all day. Instead, I gave the car a quick rinseless wash, clayed, one pass with Optimum GPS, then two coats Wolfgang sealant. Figured I'd sneak in a bit of work on my day off, since the Madison Subaru Meet is this weekend and I'm booked solid the rest of the week.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/06/DSC_0005_zps6a16ff4ajpgoriginal-1.jpg

[bulldozer24]

how much of that wolfgang 3.0 sealant, in oz, does it take to do an average size car? per coat of course

[Thomistopheles]

how much of that wolfgang 3.0 sealant, in oz, does it take to do an average size car? per coat of course4-5 pea sized drops on a primed pad will do a coat, not sure how many ounces it is. I've been working on this 32oz bottle for months, it's still half full :lol:

[Muse]

Sooo... My boss just spray-bombed all the shelves in our store on a breezy day, and got a light misting of paint all over my car. I don't care in the slightest about the paint, but I am as much of a clean freak as you when it comes to my windows. What can I use to get rid of the paint that isn't a razor?