Engine maintenance

[loganmossmusic]

So I am about to hit 200,000 miles and I am planning on doing a lot of maintenance on the motor. The reason for me posting this is so I can get opinions on whether or not I should do everything I have planned and if there is anything else I should do.

What I have so far is:
Timing belt (Full Gates kit with water pump)
Valve cover gaskets (Fel-Pro)
Rear main seal (Timken)
Oil pan reseal with RTV
Access ports reseal with RTV
Intake gasket (Fel-Pro)
Exhaust gasket(Fel-Pro)
Oil and coolant change
New air filter
Clean throttle body and IAC

I am thinking about doing cam seals and the front crank seal as well. Not sure if it is worth it because I personally have never heard of problems with them.

[Navi271]

One reason why I wanted to to do my timing belt was because both of my cam seals were leaking. Every seal will eventually wear out and leak, so if they haven't been replaced in a really long time might as well replace them since you're doing the timing belt too. That includes the front crank seal as well. But I'm also a believer in if it's not broken, don't fix it. So that's kinda up to you.
Just looking back at what I did for my 150,000 mile maintenance consider:

New PCV valve
New fuel filter
New revised metal version of the rear inspection plate (I forget exactly what it's called, it's the plate right next to the rear main seal.)
New thermostat

Other things not on the motor to maybe include:

Transmission oil change
Mid and rear differential oil change
Brake fluid flush

[loganmossmusic]

So basically you said I should fix it but it aint broke don't fix it. Its not very complex is it? I may as well if I am tearing it open anyway. Otherwise I need a fuel filter, and I thought that the inspection plate just needed resealed? I didn't know there was a revised one. Would I get that from a dealer or will they sell me the original one?

[98legacygt22]

The oil air separator plate is what he is talking about, the original one from the factory is plastic and is prone to breaking. Subaru revised it and came out with a metal plate to replace the plastic one. I also go by if it aint broke don't fix it, but I'm also a firm believer of while your in there do the preventative maintenance so say 20,000 miles down the road you don't have oil seeping out of a random seal. I'd recommend replacing every seal you can think of while your in there. Might as well.

[Dead91silvia]

If you pull the motor to do the separator plate, it would almost be worth doing head gaskets as well. However it is a 2.2 so they dont go bad as much as the 2.5's do.

But yeah, do ALL your forward oil seal's. Crank, cam's, and what not.

If you can, I would say pull the motor to at least do the rear main and the separator plate. Also if you do this, it maes working on the motor so much easier when it's on a stand.

[Wiscon_Mark]

I am thinking about doing cam seals and the front crank seal as well. Not sure if it is worth it because I personally have never heard of problems with them.

They do all leak eventually. Mine started to get bad and I had timing belt due anyways, so I got them replaced when they did everything else. On the way to the shop, they started leaking oil like crazy. The mechanic said when he removed the rear timing belt cover, they fell right out. Just in time...

[loganmossmusic]

Anyone know the price of the air/oil separator plate? I don't know if mine is the plastic one or not, but if it is, I will be replacing it.

[thenines']

Don't forget to check all of the pullies-make sure they spin freely and smooth-not rough and replace the tensioner-mine let go (at idle-thank god!) not something you want to blow up at highway speeds!

[Wiscon_Mark]

He did specify the full gates kit which I believe includes the pulleys.