rkrenicki's 2004 US "RS30" - The End.. 2019-12-20

[rkrenicki]

Well, there goes that idea.. I went to put the XV wheels back on the car, and there is no way that they will clear the 4 Pot brakes.. They are just shaped the wrong way. I did find out that the stock 16x6 wheels will clear the 4 Pots with no spacers. Since the XV wheels are a much larger investment on my part, I put the stock brakes back on and swapped the wheels on. Since the driver caliper was sticking and dragging, I grabbed the one off of the BH that Muse and I are parting out until I can get a replacement. I am very disappointed with this development.. it seems like everywhere I was reading that 17x7 rims would be fine, but I guess that does not take into account the spoke design.

It is hard to take a picture of the differences, but the Outback rims have a "dish" to the spokes, where the XV rims do not... they just protrude from the hub straight out to the edge.
Outback rim:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140308_105943_zpskaogtpb6-1.jpg

XV rim:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140308_105952_zpsvvwwgud7-1.jpg

[Emsea]

Well, there goes that idea.. I went to put the XV wheels back on the car, and there is no way that they will clear the 4 Pot brakes.. They are just shaped the wrong way.
Very unfortunate, I know that feeling. I had Enkei wheels from my old Subaru WRX and was hoping to use them on my old Lancer and it turned out the center hub is too shallow aligned with the rest of the rim. That looks exactly like what you are suffering. I really liked the look of the XV wheels on your Legacy too.

[rkrenicki]

The offset is the same between the wheels, it is just the way that the spokes are shaped that is the problem. It all worked out in the end.. the XV wheels are indeed back on.. I just wish I could have had these and the 4 Pots on at the same time.

[rkrenicki]

Today, I re-cleared my headlights and my spare S-edition/S401 lights since my tube of Opti Lens showed up yesterday. My drivers side light was yellowing pretty badly, and the passenger side had some slight white haze on it. The S-edition lights also had some yellowing, but they each came from different cars and had different levels of damage too.

This is the drivers side light before I started:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_123427_zpszdv15ezs-1.jpg

After 500 grit sanding:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_124048_zpsinef0wj4-1.jpg

After 800 grit sanding:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_124521_zpsr1dhqdjw-1.jpg

After "2000" grit wetsanding:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_125344_zpsihxcw31o-1.jpg

After rubbing compound:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_130014_zpsniwl2vr7-1.jpg

After Opti Lens application.. You can actually see the pictures on the adjacent wall reflecting on them:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_140024_zpsehpnkpec-1.jpg

I snapped a picture of both sets of lights just after I put on the Optilens, and it just happened to show the chrome really well on the S-edition/S401s. A great comparison shot:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140316_134913_zpsqe3bsszx-1.jpg

[Grimmrican]

Wow huge difference. And I was gonna mention u could see ur wall photos in the reflection much better lol

[Hinyo]

Where did u buy opti lens from? what did you use with the rubbing compound? by hand? (I have to redo mine as well)

[rkrenicki]

I used the 3M Headlight Restoration kit that you can buy here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY It attaches to a drill for all of the steps. The compound was also part of this kit. It is not a 100% perfect solution, as it does leave some very very minor circular scratches, but they are significantly better than they were before.

The Optilens I bought from Detailed Image here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OP ... /10-cc-S1/ (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OPT-M36/Opti-Lens-Coating-P767/10-cc-S1/) I used a coupon (which is no longer valid it seems) to get 25% off. Of the 10mL that I received, I only used about 2mLs. I intend on saving the rest for doing other sets of lights in the future, as long as it does not "go off" now that it has been exposed to air.

[rkrenicki]

Today, I decided to try to get my bumper back to one color. I pulled it off the car, stripped off the plastidip, and sanded down some of the damaged spots. I have never painted a car before, this is this a learning experience for me. I know I am not going to do a fantastic job, but I wanted a bumper that is largely one color for the meet. I will be having the bumper professionally resprayed in the summer to the same color as the rest of the car (19X).

I sanded down parts of the bumper with a 150 and 250 grit sanding block until I was somewhat satisfied with the smoothness, and hit it with two layers of primer.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140318_105706_zps2vmg9g4m-1.jpg

Once it dried, I wetsanded the primer down with some 500 grit wet-dry, and put down two layers of 01G spraypaint from AutomotiveTouchup.com. I am using 01G because that is the color of the bumper.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140318_123945_zpscratptdz-1.jpg

I did not do every spot, there is some curbing along the bottom edge from the previous owner of this bumper.. the paint cracks there are bigger than I am willing to tackle for my first try. I will either try again in the summer, or let the shop do it for me. The end result is not great, especially since there is no clear on it, and my painting skills are very poor.. but at least the bumper is back to mostly one color.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140318_140340_zpscnqodaod-1.jpg

For reference, this is what the damage was before I scraped off the loose paint:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/12/IMG_20131221_145037_zpsnxj0yo1f-1.jpg

While I had the bumper off, I decided to swap out the front tow hook. The tow hook on the Outback is a little over an inch lower than the Legacy, because of its increased ride height and taller bumper. The mounting is the same, the difference is in the way the hook itself is shaped. Because the Outback hook is lower, it was interfering with the JDM Legacy bumper. At the time, I just notched the bumper to make it fit, but this left me with no functional tow hook if I ever needed it. I took the one off of the BH that we are parting out, and I swapped it on. Here is a picture showing the difference between the two hooks, Legacy on the left, Outback on the right:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140318_110947_zps3a6opf77-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Last night, I decided to tackle the dent on my hood and its cracked paint. I managed to get most of the dent out, and I sanded it down to repaint. I also black plastidipped the chipped chrome on my grill. This morning I repainted the dent and reattached the grill. Again, I suck at paint, but at least there is no more bare aluminium exposed to the elements and it is largely one color again. As for the grill, that came out great.. better than I expected.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140319_112635_zpsaaoad6eh-1.jpg

[Dead91silvia]

Look's good! Nice work on the lights! Thom would be proud! :smt023

[rkrenicki]

Last night I sanded down some of the paint that I did yesterday morning, due to some streaks that developed from somebody touching it before it was dry.. >.> I will touch up that section this afternoon when it warms up a little more.

I also installed an LED strip in my trunk to improve on the lighting back there. I forgot to snap a picture after it got dark, but it is very nicely bright in there now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140319_181921_zps4tqrfl5l-1.jpg

[98legwag]

Reminds me of what R-Rev makes for the 4th gen.
http://www.rrevsports.com/p_pro_trunkled_ice.htm

[98legwag]

If you have time while you are down here next weekend there is a pick and pull in Mt Airy MD that has a hand full of BEs. Some Outbacks, a GT Limited and I think another GT. Not sure on the years but a few of them have black leather seats.

[rkrenicki]

Thanks! Lancaster6 just texted me about that. I will check them out when I am down there.

In other news, I went out and snapped a picture of the trunk illumination in the dark.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_20140321_222135_zpsbalnxnof-1.jpg

[98legwag]

Holy mother of brightness Batman! Yeah. I was able to snag the door car he needed. The car that it came from also have a factory under seat sub under the passenger seat.

[rkrenicki]

The factory sub goes either in the parcel shelf on the BE (like it was on mine), or on the passenger side of the truck on the BH (like it is in Lancaster6s). I think the only item that goes under the passenger seat from the factory is the Macintosh amplifier. If there was a sub there, then it did not come stock.

[MRLancaster]

Looks so much better with the bumper one colour!!!

[rkrenicki]

Picture day! It was nice and sunny, so I found an empty parking lot to update some pictures.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1742_zps5df1b9bc-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1744_zpsb09cb561-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1747_zpsd3305cb3-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1749_zps5ea51f4b-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1751_zps1415c86b-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1753_zpsf68d13af-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_1757_zps691e0168-1.jpg

[Muse]

I was just looking at the pictures from the last Rhode Island meet, and it hit me. Your car was like... Almost Cleg-levels of sky-high back then. It looks so much better now, even on those monster truck tires.

[Yamazaki]

Ooh, you missed a spot.....wait a minute. No, that's dirt on my computer screen. Damn it! Why does your car have to be so perfect?!

[xSCARSx]

Saw this in Maryland! Very well put together vehicle!

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_20140407_170158_zpstlcjdn7b-1.jpg

Thanks for the tip, yaya! The auto-up/down on both fronts is quite slick!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[yaya]

Nice!

[Somthy]

Just spent a few hours reading through your thread. You sir have build one sweet legacy.

[rkrenicki]

I finally found a "matching" seat for the front passenger. I picked it up this morning after my daughters swimming lessons:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_20140419_114804_zpsgrnatjti-1.jpg

This seat came from an Outback, so it has the net "pocket" on the back of it, where my drivers seat came from a GT and does not have the net.. but at least from the front, it all matches.

I tried to change the exhaust doughnut, but the bolts were not cooperating with me today. I do not have my sawzall at home, so that idea was stalled out, but while I was sitting under the car looking up at the transmission, I decided to go ahead and do a little swap that I have been meaning to do for a bit now.

Now.. where did my shift selector go?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/493edaaa7b9b4eab893f96771abc4d6f_zpse286-1.jpg

Ah.. there we go, much better now. The sportshift stuff obviously does not work yet, but the normal mode selections work perfectly. I also did not have to trim it for the Power/Hold switch either.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/fbea84dd3d814411953bd8ee45f0e753_zps160f-1.jpg


Just spent a few hours reading through your thread. You sir have build one sweet legacy.
Thank you very much, Yours is coming along very nicely.. I am excited to see the end result! I dont think I have commented over in that thread yet.

[rkrenicki]

I ran by the junkyard today and picked up a number of things. The only thing for this car is the wiper control stalk and the wiper timer from a SG Forester.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/cda8bc31b9b941a2847ca94c3a1ce0fa_zps228a-1.jpg

While installing it, I found out that the rear wiper hose was pinched and that is what was causing my rear wiper to not work properly. I nearly squirted myself in the face once I got it working.. and after a few minutes of readjusting the nozzle.. I have a fully working rear wiper now.

The other day, received a set of Rallyarmor Basic Mudflaps (The $15 ones) to use as front flaps for now until I can source some GT flaps. I am not really that thrilled with the look of them, but they will keep the rocks off the sides of the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140502_135442_zpsuazqnhmb-1.jpg

[SpeedmanRC]

Just amazing. Love all the work, and just can't get over how the sharp the front end is now. I want the type D.

[2point5GT_Dan]

I definitely need to pick up a variable wiper stick for my wagon.

[rkrenicki]

Variable front, or On/Intermittent rear?

If you are looking for just the variable front, I have my old switch available which has that feature, but the rear is either off or intermittent only.

If you are looking for the On constant/intermittent rear, you would need the switch from a forester, the timer module from a forester, and to run an additional wire from the stalk to the timer. The timer also needs to be re-pinned, as it is not a plug-and-play deal.

[thesavo]

Does the switch from the Forester use the same potentiometer for front and rear? Setting it got long delay, sets it for both?

[twoheadedboy]

The rally armor flaps look good, but I can understand why you want to get GT flaps since correct me if I'm wrong you don't have any aftermarket parts on your car (I don't count JDM or parts from Subarus as aftermarket).

[rkrenicki]

Does the switch from the Forester use the same potentiometer for front and rear? Setting it got long delay, sets it for both?
No, the adjustable timing is only for the front.

The Forester rear has Off, Intermittent (single speed), On constant.
The Legacy/Outback Wagon rear has Off, and Intermittent (single speed) only.


The rally armor flaps look good, but I can understand why you want to get GT flaps since correct me if I'm wrong you don't have any aftermarket parts on your car (I don't count JDM or parts from Subarus as aftermarket).
Correct, other than the stereo.. all parts are Subaru parts... well.. except for the Nissan aftermarket window switch, and some suspension stuff that you cant see anyways.

[2point5GT_Dan]

Variable front, or On/Intermittent rear?

If you are looking for just the variable front, I have my old switch available which has that feature, but the rear is either off or intermittent only.

If you are looking for the On constant/intermittent rear, you would need the switch from a forester, the timer module from a forester, and to run an additional wire from the stalk to the timer. The timer also needs to be re-pinned, as it is not a plug-and-play deal.

I was going to get just variable front, but if I'm replacing it I might as well go all in and get the forester one. Problem is I suck at wiring so.... Probably just a junkyard plug and play front for now.

[rkrenicki]

I went down to NYC to meet up with rougeben83 and swapped some doors around... My car started the day looking like this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/6e4730bc6f37487bb3f0f145e805673a_zpsf6ee-1.jpg

And now it looks like this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/42176d44ec544f938aaf3bf5ffdf091f_zpsd902-1.jpg

I still need to swap the front doors and the rear glass, but I am well on my way to a de-cladded car that is *one color*! For the record, a BE/BH front door fits inside the trunk of a BE with no problems.

While I was there, I was convinced to pick up his STI Genome front strut bar and the Cusco rear strut bar.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/65cb5d9187714875a0a741fa4e83b3ec_zps1acb-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/802f06fae33c479885da15579866c689_zpsc1df-1.jpg

I also snagged the last remaining bits for my subframe spacer removal project with the exception of the transmission crossmember, so that will be happening sooner rather than later.

[rkrenicki]

Drivers side is done. Front door is now on after I swapped the door cord and door card. Dogleg insert replaced with Legacy type. Rear door now has the JDM tinted glass, proper speakers, and my leather door card.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/b84f2b22f2724e23a7f95bb8fcfeb00c_zps1b4e-1.jpg

I have not done the other sides front door or dogleg, but the rear has the JDM glass, speaker, and door card swapped as well.

[yaya]

Looking good.

Any plans for body color skirts?

[Lancaster6]

Nice!

It looks like your car lost weight now that the clunky Outback cladding is gone.

[rkrenicki]

Skirts will stay black, I like the contrast, and the rear bumper also has a black "lip" painted along the bottom edge. I do need to fiddle with the fitment however, this one did not cleanly go back on for some reason, and there is a bit of a gap in the middle. I will need to take them off later anyways to do the flaps properly, so I will fix it then.

Right now, I am working on tracking down a transmission crossmember, as that is the only piece I am missing from the subframe spacer removal project. Well, that and the transverse links..


It looks like your car lost weight now that the clunky Outback cladding is gone.
Now if only I could easily take some of my cladding off, hah.

[Yamazaki]

Flaps? What are those?

[soba noodle]

A few more bits on/off (i.e RS30 grill), balloon tractor tyres/wheels off, JDM 5 spokes on and she'll finally look like a stock RS30 :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Yamazaki]

A few more bits on/off (i.e RS30 grill), balloon tractor tyres/wheels off, JDM 5 spokes on and she'll finally look like a stock RS30 :lol: :lol: :lol:
He already has the RS30 grille on.....

[soba noodle]

A few more bits on/off (i.e RS30 grill), balloon tractor tyres/wheels off, JDM 5 spokes on and she'll finally look like a stock RS30 :lol: :lol: :lol:
He already has the RS30 grille on.....


Oh that's right, sorry :roll:

[Muse]

No way is he ditching the XV wheels. He went through a lot to get them. And they really don't photograph well. I pretty much hated them until I saw them in person.

Smaller tires though? Definitely needed.

[rkrenicki]

As Muse said, there is no way I am getting rid of the XV wheels.. They are (now) the second largest purchase I have made for the car only topped by the rear windshield.

Legacy profile tires are on my to-do list, but they are still a little bit away from happening. I would like to at least use up the life of these tires, and there are other mechanical changes I need to make to ensure that the speedometer will still be accurate.


In the meantime, I cleaned up the SPT battery tie-down that I picked up from rougeben, and my battery while I was at it. They are now the cleanest things in my engine bay.. to be honest, I think they are a little embarrassed by the state of their surroundings. The rest of the bay is going to need a good degreasing here soon.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140511_150435_zpsoit2xozg-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

I finally finished the last door today. Door cords were swapped, and the lock cylinder was swapped on the passenger side. I still need to reconnect the folding mirrors and swap the lock on the drivers side. I also need to re-do all of the shot lines, as the gaps are all over the place... but all 4 doors are water tight, and close just fine.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140519_123241_zpsq6xkafyu-1.jpg

Over the weekend, I changed the oil and cleaned all of the plastic caps under the hood with some Simple Green. Seeing how well it did on the caps, I will attack the rest of the engine bay here when I have a nice day outside.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140519_123328_zpsrf7cvyhp-1.jpg

[dodik]

simple green is great for a quick clean up of the bay, but scrubbing bubbles is the hsit for caked on grime

[rkrenicki]

It has been a little while, but I have not really done much other than maintenance to the car. I did finally swap the drivers glass as Ben's was quite scratched up. I changed my oil.. which at 7k mile intervals takes me a few months to come around to. I also finally got around to changing the exhaust doughnut.

After I took the spring bolts out (with some force.. and perhaps some cutting).. This is what I found was left of my original gasket.. As you can see, there is a tiny bit of material on the top of the flange there, and that is about it:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140607_093450_zpsrtfmwjnn-1.jpg

There, that looks much better now:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140607_093844_zpshxupa9zz-1.jpg

Unfortunately, there is a crack on the mid-pipe as well.. so either I am going to have it welded back up, or I am going to replace the midpipe outright.. I am not really sure yet. But, in the end it is much much quieter than it was before.

I also picked up some new NGK "Laser Platinum" spark plugs.. the OEM part number listed in the service manual, but they have not yet gone in. I hope to have those done sometime this week.

[98legwag]

After seeing what you did to the oil cap and other yellow caps I need to that on the 3.0R. I changed the oil yesterday and somehow the dirtiest part is the oil cap....

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140611_114006_zpse60sxvh2-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

As a birthday present to myself, I finally picked up a Double-DIN Navigation system for my car. I had originally wanted the AVIC-Z140BH, but for some reason its price has been going up. It has a sister-model.. the AVIC-X940BT which has all of the same capabilities except it has a 6.1" screen (instead of 7"), is missing HD Radio (which I never use), and has 2.2v Pre-outs instead of 4v (which do not really matter to me). The best part is.. the X940 is less than half of the price of the Z140.

It showed up yesterday, and I installed it this morning. I modified it to not care about the emergency brake for DVD and Navi input use, and I am about to update the maps. It has a "dongle" for all of the various audio ins and outs, which I only really needed one of.. so I took the time to carefully de-pin the connector and store all of the jumpers in a safe place in case I need them. This cuts down on the clutter in the dashboard significantly.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140621_122602_zpshqnqlxay-1.jpg

I say goodbye to the Pioneer DEH-P8400BH. It is a good radio, but no navi :)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140622_103855_zpsjtzld1wy-1.jpg

It only took a few minutes to install, but I am temporarily using the GPS antenna by sticking it up on the dash for now. I have an adapter cable to connect the OEM Onstar GPS antenna to the radio, but it will not be here for a few weeks (it is on the slow boat from China) It will be nice to clean up the install when I get back.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140622_111913_zpslhcj6tjn-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_20140622_111923_zpsnccrhbcu-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Back where it all began.. of course, there have been a number of changes since the last time this car has been here..

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/IMG_3787_zpsd452b1bb.jpg

[colbh5]

You're car is so clean!

[rkrenicki]

My car came with OnStar, which has its own GPS and Cellular antenna module preinstalled on the roof. I decided I would use this antenna for my Navigation system instead of the little patch antenna that they included. This did require an adapter for the cabling, which I managed to source on eBay.

The OnStar system has two Fakra connectors, a blue one for the GPS antenna, and a purple one for the Cellular antenna. The antenna on the Pioneer GPS system is specific to the AVIC series, so it is called the "AVIC Green connector". I found a chinese seller on ebay selling adapter cables for Fakra "C" to AVIC Green, so I ordered one that was 20cm long. This cable was found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380683213147

During the Navi installation, I realized that the car itself has a male Fakra connector, and the adapter cable also had a male connector.. so I ordered a 10cm long female to female Fakra C cable too. If I had known this originally, I would have asked the seller to put a Female connector on instead, but I discovered the problem after the first cable was already shipped. Both of these cables showed up yesterday and the two together look like this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140706_112139_zps0blcjyue-1.jpg

This morning, I installed the cable. The car's Fakra connectors are on the left side of the center console, right around the Airbag computer.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140707_104147_zpso2xqvd79-1.jpg

After connecting it up, the GPS status is great! I see 13 satellites with the OnStar antenna, where the Pioneer antenna sitting on the dash only saw 10.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140707_105456_zpsiptjhr8c-1.jpg

And while I am talking about the Navigation system, I also installed a bootup splash screen that I liked:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140707_104743_zpsebinxckr-1.jpg

[Dead91silvia]

That looks cool! Is this one of the JDM units?

[rkrenicki]

The Navi is a North American market Pioneer AVIC-X940BT unit. It is a similar unit to what was a factory option on the 2013 Canadian WRX.

It is the 2012 model of navigation from Pioneer, but it is the last year that still would support my Carrozzeria Minidisc changer.

[rkrenicki]

I found out that the Japanese STI Lugnuts (found here: http://sti.jp/parts/catalogue/bmbr_legacy/3_5.html), are made by McGard, and are identical to the SplineDrive nuts that they sell directly without the branded cap on them. I was having a hard time finding a set of just the SplineDrive nuts, so I bought the whole "Wheel Installation Kit" which comes with wheel locks as well.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140709_171253_zps5js0p7jl-1.jpg

Each nut came with a rubber cap on them to keep them from getting scratched.. it was a nice touch!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140709_171308_zpsq1zbxqyp-1.jpg

I do not really like the wheel locks, personally. I will probably buy another 4 Spline Drive nuts and take the locks off later, but these look way nicer than the rusted up eBay nuts I had on there before!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140711_081753_zpstnzjw5no-1.jpg

I also found a set of Stainless Steel Brake Lines for the front.. for only $22 shipped! It looks like they were a customer return from Amazon, but the lines are completely unused so I am happy with it. I have not put them on yet, but they will go on soon.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140709_172901_zpsxm6xf8bo-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

My new Summertime STI Co-pilot showed up yesterday. I figured I would have a summer and winter bear to swap.. to cut down on the UV exposure on both limited edition bear.. He is wearing the STI Poncho that is available for full-size humans too! More info here: http://sti.jp/sticollection/pickup-rainy.html

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1768_zps183c5c87-1.jpg

[rougeben83]

I just took out my rear SS lines if you want them...cheap as usual. lol.

[rkrenicki]

I had some time today and the weather was cooperative, so I decided to tackle the rear subframe spacer removal. I have not started the front yet, but their days are numbered.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140717_101738_zpsosioi7dr-1.jpg

This shows the difference in bolt length. The Outback bolt is the top, and Legacy bolt on the bottom.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140717_102209_zpsb7pull96-1.jpg

The spacers.. Outback on right, Legacy on left.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140717_102222_zpsxrltlzij-1.jpg

The rear support brackets. Outback on the left, Legacy on the right.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140717_102954_zpskhnkxrha-1.jpg

Trailing arm brackets/subframe brace bracket. Outback on left, Legacy on right.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140717_111441_zpstrtygt2t-1.jpg

And again, Outback in rear, Legacy in front.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140717_111533_zpsbyfvisvt-1.jpg

[Dead91silvia]

This will be good!

[rkrenicki]

I managed to get all 4 spacers out, both rear support brackets, and one of the trailing arm brackets swapped yesterday.

The drivers side trailing arm bolt is seized, and I cannot remove the bracket due to this problem. The car is together, but with mis-matched brackets right now. I hope to get my co-workers angle grinder today to cut the old bolt out. Luckily, I kept the bolts from the BH that I tore apart.

[rkrenicki]

I have a number of things I have been working on, so I am updating the thread here.

First, my tires have developed a fairly significant imbalance over the last few months from uneven wear and cupping on the inside edge. It looks like either the ball joints or tie-rod ends are on their way out, so I picked up replacement Moog parts for both sides. I am hoping for some good weather this weekend to get them changed out. I also hope to remove the front subframe spacers, but that is wholly dependent on my Legacy-length steering column getting here in time.

Once all of that is complete, I will have to replace the tires. I managed to get just shy of 35k miles out of them, so I am not overly upset about changing them out. If I am going to have to get new tires, I might as well get Legacy sized tires. The problem with that is in the 215/45R17 size, the Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 does not have a high enough load rating for my needs. I spent some time researching other tires, and I think I am going to get the Hankook Ventus S1 Noble 2, which has a much higher wear rating, and a sufficiently high load rating. I will be getting an alignment at the same time, since I would have messed with a lot of the front suspension geometry by then.

But, those are all "future plans".. In other news, the only real change I have made to the car since my last post has been changing out the steering wheel... In my last order from my proxy, I found a nearly pristine Momo steering wheel and some d-type car wiring. The wheel is exactly the same as the one I had in the car, except it was not heavily worn like my old one.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140722_102403_zpsnttglukh-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

I managed to get the tie-rod ends changed out today.. it looks like the drivers side had decided to gush all over the place in the last week or so. I should be getting my ball joints tomorrow, so they will be done this weekend most likely.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_20140725_130918_zps8jlo6euf-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Let's play a guessing game.. Who can guess which is the old, and which is the new?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140726_111457_zpscvuoropi-1.jpg

[98legwag]

The one on the right is clearly the old one.

[dodik]

im with 98legwag, the one on the left is complete with a crown nut the one on the right is not.

[rkrenicki]

I ended up buying this for dirt cheap on eBay. I am downright shocked that it ended for only $66 + $57 shipping. I expected to be outbid, but here we are.

I seem to be missing something today..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140809_143523_zpsldk55m5f-1.jpg

Drilling holes..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140809_144241_zpslzigyk3s-1.jpg

And.. BAM! Blitzen Spoiler.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140809_144854_zpsaimsbnb6-1.jpg

I need to take it back off and seal up the old wiring hole. The Blitzen brake light wire travels down the center, where the original wing traveled down the drivers side edge. I am not sure what I am going to use to plug that old hole, but for now I am just hoping that it will not rain before I do it.

[thesavo]

I need to take it back off and seal up the old wiring hole. The Blitzen brake light wire travels down the center, where the original wing traveled down the drivers side edge. I am not sure what I am going to use to plug that old hole, but for now I am just hoping that it will not rain before I do it.
Use an unpierced rubber grommet. Lowes should have a variety in their fastener drawers.

[twoheadedboy]

I have had that same experience on ebay many times, but with vinyl records instead of Subaru parts.

[Muse]

Still got any Niteshades to tint that third (fourth?) brake light like you did on the OE spoiler?

[rkrenicki]

I do, but I think I am going to leave this one alone. The tint made that light pretty hard to see, so in the interest of safety, I am going to keep it red.

[Dead91silvia]

I like it!

[MRLancaster]

Mind taking a few pictures from farther away?

[rkrenicki]

Mind taking a few pictures from farther away?

Once the suspension work is complete, and the tires are replaced.. I will take a new series of shots of the car. The last batch still has the Outback doors on them, so they are in need of updating anyways.

[rkrenicki]

I was able to finally complete the subframe spacer delete for the rear. The outback drivers side trailing arm bracket was being stubborn, but a few minutes with my co-workers angle grinder fixed its attitude quickly enough.

While I had the suspension apart, I decided to go ahead and swap out the rear shocks. I have not yet done the fronts.. those will likely be done tomorrow. Here is a picture comparing the two shocks. As you can see, the STI Black springs from the S401 have one less loop, but the coils are much much thicker than the Outback spring. The Bilstein shock seems to be about 10mm shorter than the KYB as well.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140815_110139_zpssbjfjigq-1.jpg

Everything back together, as you can see.. no more Outback spacer, and a not so shiny new Bilstein installed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140815_110533_zps3zozy5nd-1.jpg

Back on the ground. I did not take measurements at the start, but it appears to be about an inch shorter than it was before. I may need to change out the bump stops with Legacy ones to prevent running on the stops too much..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140815_113638_zpsuoyjclms-1.jpg

[98legwag]

Looks good. Are those still the Outback size tires or did you install Legacy size tires yet?

[rkrenicki]

I will do the legacy tires after I am done screwing with the suspension. That way I only need to do one alignment, which the tire place will do for me.

[Muse]

Went out to see rkrenicki today, and inspect the progress. I could get one finger between the tire and the body. It's really stiff, too. Can't wait to see the new tires and proper stance with the fronts done.

[rkrenicki]

More progress today. I was able to swap in the S401 control arms, S401 front struts and springs, trim the rear bump stop, change the drivers side ball joint, and change the oil.

Many thanks to Rogueben83 for letting me borrow this tool.. It helped immensely. It did not help putting it back in.. but it made a 3 hour job into a 1 hour job.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_111151_zpsk0cnotp0-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_111203_zps0egu4kxa-1.jpg

Here is a shot of the drivers side all back together. The Bilstein is dirty, but works great, and the aluminium control arm fit in perfectly. This picture does have the wrong swaybar endlink.. I thought I could reuse my Moog ones, but the bottom bushing ended up getting pulled out of the dogbone. I ended up putting in the ones that came with the control arms, which seemed to be in pretty good shape.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_123635_zpstdn5otsc-1.jpg

Here is the passenger side control arm before I put it in. As you can see, it has the endlink and transverse link bushing still attached which made things pretty easy. They did also have balljoints attached to them as well, but since I just put in brand new Moog ones, I decided to take those off.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_124059_zpsgub9udlm-1.jpg

As for the rear, this is what I ended up doing. I cut off about an inch from the end of the bump stop. This made my ride 10x better. It is still very tight, but it no longer bounces all over when I hit a tiny bump. I will be picking up some Legacy bump stops next week, but this makes the car drivable for now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_135634_zpsbc6jv08c-1.jpg

Here is the front ride height as it is right now. I cambered out the wheels as much as it would go to prevent rubbing on the perch until I get new tires. I also have no rubbing in the wheel wells at full lock. I am more than happy with the results.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_145029_zps5crsudit-1.jpg

[Muse]

How about an overall shot?

[rkrenicki]

Front height: 67.5cm (I did fix the fender liner after I took this picture..)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_161952_zpsbh2gwbvy-1.jpg

Rear height: 65.5cm
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_161934_zpsezrvneuj-1.jpg

Overall shot:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_162412_zpslbd5nch7-1.jpg

[soba noodle]

What's the difference between S401 LCA and stock alloy LCA?

Looking good, those tyres though... :D

[rkrenicki]

There is no difference from the normal RSK one, these just came from an S401. The swaybar links may be special, but I am not sure on that one.. I need to look up the part numbers.

The tires will be replaced this week. I just scheduled the alignment and tire install for Thursday.

[Muse]

I've come to the conclusion that you take your pictures at a funny angle. Your car consistently looks stranger in the pictures than it does in real life.

[thesavo]

Front height: 67.5cm (I did fix the fender liner after I took this picture..)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_161952_zpsbh2gwbvy-1.jpg

Rear height: 65.5cm
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140816_161934_zpsezrvneuj-1.jpg


You are so into JDM, you have a metric only tape measure.... And I am jealous.
I want one of those?

[rkrenicki]

I've come to the conclusion that you take your pictures at a funny angle. Your car consistently looks stranger in the pictures than it does in real life.

Stranger how? I take most of these shots from my eye height.

[rkrenicki]

Front height: 67.5cm (I did fix the fender liner after I took this picture..)
Rear height: 65.5cm

You are so into JDM, you have a metric only tape measure.... And I am jealous.
I want one of those?

It is a normal meter stick, I have had it for as long as I can remember. It has centimeters on one side, and inches on the back side. I never really use the imperial side.

Amazon has a similar one here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J0ARWW

[Grimmrican]

.....dammit rob..... Damn u lol

Guess I'm going lower now lol

[r3v_v3ng3]

:smt023

[rkrenicki]

When I was cutting the bump stops, I noticed that there was a piece of metal keeping the subframe from sitting flush with the car. I looked it up, and sure enough, it is an Outback specific part. I cannot for the life of me figure out what it is there for. It sits between the subframe and the swaybar mount, and has a tab that would be beside the outback spacer. The tab does not connect to anything. The drivers side does not have one, so it is not simply a big washer to space out the swaybar.. I have no idea what it is, but it is gone now!

Here is what I found, as you can see.. there is a gap between the top washer and the subframe of about 3mm:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140818_175525_zpsdobrpucp-1.jpg

After loosening things and a bit of prying, this is what I ended up with.. a nice flush washer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140818_181053_zpsiiy9xpej-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140820_091156_zpsfzdu8atz-1.jpg
Front spacer on top.. it was a bit bigger than I expected, it was partially obscured by the car frame..
Outback drop bolt on lower left, Legacy on lower right.

I still need to do the steering joint and column, and the transmission crossmember.. then I am done.

[Dead91silvia]

This is great that you are do this right and documenting it all. I dont think any one has done this any where else.

[rkrenicki]

There are a few people who have done it, but it seems more popular with the 05-07 Outback crowd. I have found more than a few well documented threads on the spacer removal for them.

Once I am all done, I will put a master list of parts needed, and bumps along the way in the suspension thread here.

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/6261948b7ea74ece804f95721524b036_zps635d-1.jpghttps://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/47d71cd066d74fa1b8e6ec6186f5e68b_zpsc061-1.jpg
Both front and rear toe was way off. I knew front would be because I changed the tierod ends.. I guess the rear is because of the subframe changes there. I nailed the front camber myself which I am pretty stoked about.

I picked up a transmission crossmember today, so that will go in on Saturday (weather permitting) along with the column and steering joint. That should complete this project, and lead me straight into the exhaust replacement.

[rkrenicki]

Transmission crossmember is swapped. The car that I pulled the Legacy one from did not have an exhaust manifold on it.. so I sort of forgot that you have to drop the manifold to get to this bracket.. That made it take a little longer, but not really a big deal. I ended up using the original transmission mount, as it was in better shape than the one I pulled at the yard.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140822_145159_zpslggoyxg8-1.jpg

This picture better shows the difference. The Outback crossmember is in the foreground, and Legacy in the background.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140822_145206_zpskegwnrcs-1.jpg

I now can close the hood with the engine cover on, and everything clears quite nicely. In fact, now that the engine is about an inch higher than it used to be.. It should be easier to change the sparkplugs out now :)

New side shot with the new tires as well.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140822_163155_zpsnj4r74yy-1.jpg

[Muse]

*wolf whistle* Hell-o, nurse!
Those tires make a world of difference.


In fact, now that the engine is about an inch higher than it used to be.. It should be easier to change the sparkplugs out now :)
cue a round of H6 owners scrambling to remove their spacers

[rkrenicki]

Today marks the completion of the De-Outbackification project. I ran into a slight issue with the propeller shaft, which I will get into a little later, I started the day with the steering column and joint.

The car looks weird without a steering column..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140823_090717_zpsjj01spvz-1.jpg

Here are the two columns side by side. Outback on top, Legacy on the bottom. The Legacy column is about 3cm longer.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140823_090659_zpsfhq3yvux-1.jpg

Here are the two steering couplers. Outback on top, Legacy on the bottom. The Outback one is about 2cm longer.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140823_093453_zps87f0k9d9-1.jpg

Without dropping the exhaust, there is very little room to do this job. Even with the exhaust out of the way, it is not a whole lot.. but better than what I had to deal with.

After yesterday's transmission crossmember swap, I noticed that I was having a high pitched scraping sound that varied with my speed. I never did change the prop shaft, so the center carrier is lower than it should be since it is made for an Outback. I figured that since the heatshield went up during this process, that it was rubbing on the shaft. Apparently, I was incorrect in that assumption. Turns out that the exhaust resonator itself was rubbing against the propshaft.. but I did not figure this out until after I had removed the heatshield.

After looking at it for a few minutes, I decided that I needed to raise the center carrier a little bit just to get it off the resonator. There are some spacers in between the center carrier mounting points and the chassis of the car, so I removed those to raise the carrier just about 4 or 5mm. This isnt a whole lot, but it was enough to keep the two pieces from touching any longer. At some point, I will need to get my hands on a Legacy propshaft for an Automatic Transmission to solve this problem once and for all.

This is a picture of the spacer that I removed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140823_111109_zpslviz6mjh-1.jpg

Next on my to-do list is the exhaust. I have a new Bosal mid-pipe here, and next week I am picking up a new muffler. In the meantime, I am just enjoying my nicely lowered car. If I can manage to clean her up well enough, I will probably update the original post pictures today, as those are quite out of date now.

[Grimmrican]

Wow. I really am at a loss of words

[rkrenicki]

New series of pictures.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_3806_zpsd0e62cb8-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_3810_zps561c5819-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_3805_zps6146169c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_3812_zpsc71f88d4-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_3814_zps71576624-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_3800_zps47f95395-1.jpg

[98legwag]

Looks fantastic.

[Dead91silvia]

Wow! Now that is looking sexy! Love the stance!

I can't believe the column is that much different. Looking forward to sting that competitive thread on this.

[soba noodle]

Knowing your attention to details, putting a boot lid spoiler on - what's the best way to map holes for drilling? Any tricks?

[dplacencia]

Looks Great!!!

[rkrenicki]

Knowing your attention to details, putting a boot lid spoiler on - what's the best way to map holes for drilling? Any tricks?

Well, I lucked out in that the outside edge mounting points for both the original and the Blitzen spoiler were the same. I just put some painters tape down where new holes needed to go, put the spoiler on lined up with the original holes, and the new studs in the middle scraped the painters tape a little bit. I then drilled the new holes at those points.

You could possibly do the same sort of trick by eyeing where it should go on the trunk.

[soba noodle]

Knowing your attention to details, putting a boot lid spoiler on - what's the best way to map holes for drilling? Any tricks?

Well, I lucked out in that the outside edge mounting points for both the original and the Blitzen spoiler were the same. I just put some painters tape down where new holes needed to go, put the spoiler on lined up with the original holes, and the new studs in the middle scraped the painters tape a little bit. I then drilled the new holes at those points.

You could possibly do the same sort of trick by eyeing where it should go on the trunk.

Ok cheers, was pretty easy in your case then. My bootlid is virgin :lol:

[Cooper197]

This is one impressive ride you have here. It's amazing how much different it looks than a stock USDM 3rd Gen

[rkrenicki]

Exhaust replaced.

Old vs New. I had cut the pipe just to speed up removal..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140829_183812_zpsfflb1dnx-1.jpg

About 2 seconds later, the rest of the exhaust flange fell off.. Good thing I replaced this when I did.. it was going to rust apart any day now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140829_184130_zpschlyhup6-1.jpg

This is where the propshaft was rubbing on the resonator. The new resonator is a bit lower now, so no chance of rubbing.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140829_184348_zpsp2el7bhv-1.jpg

And this is the crack that prompted the exhaust replacement to begin with.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_20140829_184354_zpsd8gpqz29-1.jpg

I have not actually driven the car around yet, but it is much quieter than before... not that it was loud. I cannot wait to get it out on the highway for the pressure bypass to open up, I am sure that the old one was rusted shut before I got her.

[rkrenicki]

Today, I changed out the rear garnish with the brand new one that I bought from japan. It turns out that there is a smallish crack on the upper right corner from being damaged in shipping, but overall it is in quite good condition. I took the time to replace the gaskets behind the tail lights as well.

Brand new center garnish:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/8c7f465819eb45db8c3880f3284108e4_zpsbe2f-1.jpg

All of the lights off, and the metal all cleaned up:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/cbe951bc5df249689d105d4121b3a85c_zpse8b8-1.jpg

New gaskets on the tail lights.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140901_101702_zpsuo6f2lxy-1.jpg

All back together:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/96524a93a0514c41910d83adafe9763f_zpsbe6d-1.jpg

I finally opened up my new SLi decals, but I didnt realize that the text was silver and not white.. I am not sure what I am going to do with them, but I will work at least one of them onto the car somehow..

I also took the snails off the fenders I picked up from rougeben83 today, as they really do not belong on the car. I also did a little light cleaning of the interior.. I wanted to really attack it today, but it is far too humid to do any real work outside.

[Muse]

The snails will be missed.

[dplacencia]

Looks great!!!

[dodik]

its a shame snails are gone, but car looks great otherwise

[Dead91silvia]

Man, I hope I can make it out to next year MD meet again. Would love to see it in person!

The muffler bit cracks me up! So much rust! My BD is not even close to that rusty on the exhaust!

[rougeben83]

No snails, no care!!!

[rkrenicki]

I swapped the TCU with one from a 2002 Legacy GT. The final drive does not match so the speed registering on the OBD port is off by a little bit, but the cluster is spot on accurate now since it was off by a bit too. The two inaccuracies cancel each other out, yay!

[rkrenicki]

I had a couple of hours of decent weather when I got home from work today so I had to decide between changing the rear upper control arms/lateral links or doing my spark plugs. After some deliberation, I decided to do the plugs. With the engine being a bit higher than it was originally intended, it made the job much much easier. In fact, it took me longer to change the plugs on the BG, and it has two less plugs to do! This job took me 2 hours start to finish, and there was very little swearing involved.

Here are the plugs that I pulled out:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140909_184551_zpsxbu7jop9-1.jpg

Here is a comparison to a new one, I went for the OE NGK PLFR6A-II plugs which are the same as what was in it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140909_172944_zpsppdjyexb-1.jpg

Obviously, the old plugs were not that bad. I doubt that they are original with 157k miles on them.. but best case scenario, they are at least 50k old as I have never changed them since I bought it (that is, until now). The car is running a little bit smoother, so I am happy.

Also, in unrelated news... I refurbished the grill. Before the Maryland meet, I plastidipped the grill to cover some peeled chrome, but after a few weeks, the plastidip shrunk a bit, and pulled off even more of the chrome. I decided to take the time to sand it all back and properly paint it. I hit it up with some semi-gloss black, and I am very happy with the results.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140908_081656_zpsufp3jjh1-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Rear upper control arms/lateral links and bump stops are swapped. That leaves only the driveshift to replace, and all of the suspension bits are correct. The ride has greatly improved with this last bit, I am actually quite amazed at how much of a difference this made.

As per usual, here are the pictures. Outback on left, Legacy on right.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140910_165115_zpsvb2nscjj-1.jpg

Outback in back, Legacy in front.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140910_165127_zpslcjswyo4-1.jpg

Overall shot, lots of suspension travel before hitting the stops now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140910_172505_zps6jsvmvoj-1.jpg

[Yamazaki]

It just goes to continue to show how different the Legacy and Outback are. The Lancaster in Japan had basically the same setup as the Legacy.... So North America was the only place to get the Outback stuff.

[Dead91silvia]

It just goes to continue to show how different the Legacy and Outback are. The Lancaster in Japan had basically the same setup as the Legacy.... So North America was the only place to get the Outback stuff.

I think Australia got the same as well did as well, at least the lift bits, but I could be wrong.

[Barbbachello]

Yep we got outbacks with the lift as well.

[rkrenicki]

I know that the Lancaster had the bigger tires.. So it has to have some sort of lift. But, I have never looked into it very much to know how different it is.

[Yamazaki]

Okay, I looked into it and the Lancaster is totally different parts.
I admit I was only looking at pictures when I typed that.... :oops:

[rkrenicki]

Today had some good progress. I managed to change out the driveshaft and front fender liners today with ones from a Legacy which completes the de-outbackifcation process.

I also installed all of the Stainless Steel brake lines, but I ran into an issue with the drivers side rear caliper.. The bleeder screw is seized, and I do not dare force it.. so, I have a big air bubble in that corner. Luckily, I replaced this caliper about 18 months ago, so it is still under warranty. I just need to figure out how I am going to get to and from the parts store, since my work truck is in the shop right now.

[rkrenicki]

Now that the subframe spacers are gone, I ran into an interesting issue. The engine is about 1 inch higher than it used to be, but the radiator is in the same place. This means that the radiator hoses are either twisted or kinked. Due to the fantastic kindness of another member (who I wont mention in case they do not want to get parts requests for the future), I managed to get my hands on a set of RS30/GT30 radiator hoses from Japan.

All the hoses, sitting in a row.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140922_090146_zps2h5iusa2-1.jpg

Left side top hose. You can clearly see that the new one is shorter.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140923_174114_zpsprpn5y2b-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140923_174122_zpsgqxp8vt1-1.jpg

Right side top hose. It is the same length.. but it does bend down slightly instead of up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140923_175042_zpspwfzjlhi-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140923_175102_zpseccllatl-1.jpg

No more kink! Also, the radiator is no longer being pushed forward excessively..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140923_175711_zps2tqcmuk5-1.jpg

[Grimmrican]

Oh yea look at that. Big difference. Small change but big difference

[rkrenicki]

I think I finally have a fully working solution for my Legacy-sized tires and an accurate speedometer. Putting a Legacy TCU in my car worked 90% of the way. The car would drive, shift, and show my speed correctly, but the Torque Converter Lock-up would not work properly, and shift at odd times. I tried a number of different TCUs (2002 GT, 2003 L, 2004 L Fed), the 04 L TCU was the best, but still did not lock up the Torque Converter properly.

I took a look at the wiring diagrams, and I decided to use two TCUs. The 04 Outback TCU will drive the transmission, and the 02 GT TCU drives just the speedometer. This involved tapping into the VSS wires and the power wires on the Outback TCU and connecting them to the Legacy GT one. I did it in such a way, that the whole solution is plug-and-play.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121224_zpsnbq2br4n-1.jpg

This is where I connected the speedometer wire. I cut the pin and connected a wire to it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121433_zpspx010hdw-1.jpg

All buttoned up, with the pigtails sticking out. I put double sided tape to hold the Legacy TCU in place.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121534_zpsodrc390c-1.jpg

All together. There are some connectors adjacent to the TCU location so I had to shift the Legacy one down a bit to make it all fit properly.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121648_zpsrnc33qwn-1.jpg

[Yamazaki]

I think at this point it goes without saying (although I'm saying it anyway): You, my friend, are a god among men.

You've gone way beyond the bolt-on mods and yet kept 99% of your car OEM. Amazing.

[Muse]

^ this. very much this. I think between you on the electronics, Robin on the bodywork and either Slavik or Reuben on the mechanicals, there is absolutely nothing that can't be done to a Legacy.

[rkrenicki]

Well.... this didnt quite work, as I am still getting a check engine light with this setup. I also discovered an omission on the FSM that I thought might have caused this problem, but I tried another method today and while I did not get a CEL.. the speedometer was wrong again. One step forward, two steps back.

I have reverted back to the 2004 L TCU for now until I can figure this out. This TCU works fine except for the Torque Converter lock-up at highway speeds. I may be loosing a few MPGs, but it largely works for me right now.

[Grimmrican]

because nobody like a check engine light lol

[98legwag]

This might be a stupid question and something you have already tried, would using a Legacy speed sensor work?

[rkrenicki]

All of the VSS are the same, the difference is all in the TCU.

[98legwag]

Ah, OK.

[Dori Ninja]

What the hell did it run u to get that hood?? lol i really really want one (but Turbo) for my car!

[Muse]

What the hell did it run u to get that hood?? lol i really really want one (but Turbo) for my car!
If you get a D-type hood to match your lights, you'll need a D-type grille to fit in the hood. Then, you'll need a D-type bumper, as the bits that go around the lights don't match up in height or width from bumper to hood... Basically, if you want more than just the lights, you'll have to do the full nose, minus the quarter panels.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/IMAG0070_zps3f13e1e8-1.jpg

You can see the width difference better here:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/IMAG0071_zps8dfbd4d0-1.jpg



So, after looking at other cars on here, seeing amgarrety's D-type front end, and talking to YamazakiSubaru.. I had the idea in my head to turn my car into a full blown RS30 replica. I started looking at D-Type front ends, aluminium hoods, B4 rear glass and a rear wiper, badges badges and more badges... I even sent an offer to someone on ebay for a JDM H6 engine cover for $170 (which he declined! thank goodness)... then I brought myself back to reality before I spent thousands of dollars on something that will not do anything to the car but make it look a different..

......

In the meantime, the BEE that I have will not get any more significant changes.. Once the wheels are done, the badges (that I have) are put on, and whatever I end up doing with the suspension is done.. the car will be "complete".

Just found this old post, looking for that picture... HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

[rkrenicki]

Yea... Yama and I were kind of talking about that earlier...

[Muse]

I'm quite glad you weren't actually done. Your car is so much better now than it would've been if you'd stopped there.

[Dori Ninja]

Damn... I only have the lights... Grrr... I want the hood and bumper too.... But that's gonna kill me in freight.... :/

[rkrenicki]

Can anyone spot the change I made today?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141008_182654_zpsnh1x3swu-1.jpg

[r3v_v3ng3]

Tow hitch :)

[rkrenicki]

Damn... I only have the lights... Grrr... I want the hood and bumper too.... But that's gonna kill me in freight.... :/

elady01 on eBay sells hoods and bumpers with free shipping. You can buy both for about $1200 shipped.. Not exactly cheap, but way better than trying to use a normal proxy service.

[rkrenicki]

Tow hitch :)

Ding! Ding! Ding! Ding! Winnar Winnar Chicken Dinnar!

[Muse]

Looks tow-tally out of place on such a clean car.














...I'm so, so sorry for that.

Edit: No. after that last post you made while I wrote this, I'm not anymore.

[Dead91silvia]

Give that hitch some new black paint and your set! You car would be able to tow the Toyota Tacoma trailer I just built! :smt023

[rkrenicki]

Once I cut the lock off of it, I will not be driving around with a rusty ball anymore. I can also pick up the bike rack that I wanted once I get the receiver cleared too.

[Dead91silvia]

Once I cut the lock off of it, I will not be driving around with a rusty ball anymore. I can also pick up the bike rack that I wanted once I get the receiver cleared too.

Yakima? :smile: I love Yakima stuff! My GF's Jeep has a Yakima hitch bike rack on it. Works pretty good.

[rkrenicki]

Hmm, I am not sure if it was Yakima or not. My wife has it on her amazon list, and she is not home at the moment for me to check.

In related news, my friends pop-up camper has a 7 pin connector on it, so I needed an adapter from the 4-pin harness that came with the hitch from Dodik. I also gave up on my double TCU idea, as I could never really work out all of the kinks, that means that I need an adjustable speedometer adapter. Turns out that Dakota Digital makes one that has lots of different options and is not overly expensive, so I picked one up along with the 7 pin trailer adapter. Both of these will go in during the week.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141011_105652_zpsqhuy1o6i-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

I installed the SGI-5C today, and it works great. After a few test runs, I managed to calibrate it to be 100% accurate. I replaced the SVASpeedos adapter, so this is doing km/h->MPH and the Outback to Legacy tire adjustments in one step. I have not yet permanently mounted the adapter, as I want to do a few more test runs to verify my calibration.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141014_123230_zpsp3kruavh-1.jpg

I also managed to find a 2002 H6 VDC car in black at the junkyard, so I grabbed a replacement for the very last piece of beige in my car.. the passenger side defroster vent with the sun-load sensor.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141013_143051_zpsx5jaemm2-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Since I was able to re-use the Onstar antenna for my Pioneer navigation system, I started thinking about my Sirius radio and ways to get rid of the hockey puck on the roof. I discovered that the Onstar antenna is generally universal to GM cars, and that the newer GM cars have a combination Onstar/XM antenna module. So, with that in mind, I purchased a used Onstar/XM antenna assembly from a 2005 Cadillac STS.

I had to widen the hole a little bit for the larger base, and I also had to drill a 1/8" hole for a locating pin. I reconnected the GPS wire, and everything works well in that respect. I ordered a FAKRA K-type cable so I can connect the sirius portion, but it is not here yet.

Here is the antenna with the wires run into the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141027_153356_zpsydnzeo4g-1.jpg

The blue connector is the GPS antenna. The yellow is the Sirius/XM. I did not bother reconnecting the Purple one, as that is the cellular antenna.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141027_160721_zpsud2qj8jm-1.jpg

All buttoned up. Hopefully sometime later in the week, the puck will be gone!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_20141027_160842_zpsm0nnfaer-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Ever since I finished the front end lowering, I have had an annoying rattle in the front left suspension that seems more pronounced when the car is cold. Since it has been cold lately, it has been really getting on my nerves. I also have some new play in the steering, which may or may not be related. When I put the S401 Bilsteins on, I also replaced the control arms along with their bushings and the swaybar endlink. I do not know the history of any of these bushings, so I have decided to replace them all.

I have on the way new 20201FA070 and 20201FA080 LCA rear bushings, which are used on the GD/GG Imprezas here and BE/BH Legacies in Japan. I also picked up Whiteline W51709A LCA front bushings (I suspect these are the ones giving me the rattle right now), and Moog K750049 endlinks.

If these do not also fix my steering issue, I do also have new Moog EV473 inner tie rod ends, but I do not have the proper tool to change them right now. I will be replacing those as a last resort.

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/IMG_20141214_145035_zpsvjsnx27a-1.jpg
Turns out that the endlinks were the source of my rattles. I replaced the driver side endlink and I have not heard a rattle since. I will still replace the other bushings since I already have them in hand.

This morning, I took the S401 Bilsteins out, as my car sat much lower with them than I ever wanted. I am back to the Legacy KYBs with Outback springs for now until I can source a set of BH GT springs. It is such a huge difference between the two heights, I will be happy to have it land somewhere in the middle when I am done.

Also, in other news.. I finally paid off the car. It is now officially mine, and I have the title in hand.

[rkrenicki]

After some discussions with zaho_baho, I managed to get my hands on a MPH BFM, and reprogrammed it for my correct mileage. This is actually a mix-and-match of clusters, as I had already modified my cluster for the sportshift display to function. This is my modified 090 cluster with the MPH gauge of the 110, and the EEPROM of the 110. Since I was going from one BFM to another, the mileage is copied from the original so there is no loss of mileage. Since this cluster now natively counts in Miles, I had to adjust the SGI5 adapter to only compensate for the tire size and not the MPH->km/h difference.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/IMG_20141215_112338_zpso2gaastb-1.jpg

[rougeben83]

I think I still have my old set of GT springs... :wink:

[nepbug]

I think I finally have a fully working solution for my Legacy-sized tires and an accurate speedometer. Putting a Legacy TCU in my car worked 90% of the way. The car would drive, shift, and show my speed correctly, but the Torque Converter Lock-up would not work properly, and shift at odd times. I tried a number of different TCUs (2002 GT, 2003 L, 2004 L Fed), the 04 L TCU was the best, but still did not lock up the Torque Converter properly.

I took a look at the wiring diagrams, and I decided to use two TCUs. The 04 Outback TCU will drive the transmission, and the 02 GT TCU drives just the speedometer. This involved tapping into the VSS wires and the power wires on the Outback TCU and connecting them to the Legacy GT one. I did it in such a way, that the whole solution is plug-and-play.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121224_zpsnbq2br4n-1.jpg

This is where I connected the speedometer wire. I cut the pin and connected a wire to it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121433_zpspx010hdw-1.jpg

All buttoned up, with the pigtails sticking out. I put double sided tape to hold the Legacy TCU in place.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121534_zpsodrc390c-1.jpg

All together. There are some connectors adjacent to the TCU location so I had to shift the Legacy one down a bit to make it all fit properly.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/09/IMG_20140928_121648_zpsrnc33qwn-1.jpg

Good to see others doing things like this. I was considering running two TCUs to get sportshift into my Forester, but instead was able to source a TCU out of Russia. Though, I wouldn't mind playing around to get the dual TCu system working as well.

[rkrenicki]

Well, that dual TCU didnt work properly for me.. but it was not a fault of the idea.. instead I accidentally swapped the TCU circuit boards around, so I had the wrong board doing the wrong function.

By the time I figured this out, I had already bought the Dakota Digital adapter.

[Muse]

Congrats on paying it off!

[86bratman]

Best mod in existence, no lien on the title.

[rkrenicki]

Completed cluster shot. I am not sure why the gas light is on.. I will have to fill it up to see if it really is out of gas, or the cluster is just confused for some reason.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/12/IMG_1857_zpsc32c2914-2.jpg

New dashboard shot for the first post.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMG_1864_zps6485ee2d-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

What I was greeted with this morning.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/P1070134_zpshqvbavgh-1.jpg

After the plow came by and cleared out the middle of the lot some, I wiped off the front window, and drove the car (and truck too, 4x4 Lo helped) straight through the remaining 5-6 feet of snow in front of them and let the plow take a swipe at where my vehicles were.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/P1070152_zpskzkdawhv-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/P1070155_zpsotpms2ay-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Yet another stereo. This time I have given up thoughts of Minidisc for improved Satellite Radio integration, improved iPod integration, and vastly improved navigation. I went for the Kenwood DNX571HD paired up with a SiriusXM SXV300.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_100410_zpsol8jb2fm-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/02/IMG_20150213_100135_zps6vvesh1c-1.jpg

[peugoby]

That stereo setup looks awesome! How do you like it?

[rkrenicki]

I like it a lot so far. I have had it for a week now, and it is much better than the Pioneer AVIC-X940BT that I had before it. Just about every function is better. The only thing that bugs me about it is that it is slightly slower to respond than the AVIC when switching between modes or entering addresses in the navi.. But, all of the extra functionality more than makes up for it.

Added functions over the X940BT: Much larger volume knob (easier to use), HD Radio, Garmin based Navi (which also allows garmin updates, and navteq traffic), HDMI/MHL input, SiriusXM now displays more than one line of text, SiriusXM now has pause/fast forward/rewind, iPod integration is SIGNIFICANTLY improved.. better searching/unicode support/more intuitive operation.

After buying the new setup, and selling the old setup.. It only cost me about $140, money well spent for all of the plusses.

[lord flashheart]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMG_1864_zps6485ee2d-1.jpg

THIS IS WHAT YOU GET TO LOOK AT WHILE YOU DRIVE?!?! that's borderline pornographic! Im Mad jealous you lucky bastard.
If that was my car I would likely hit someone because I was looking at the dash all the time lol

[rkrenicki]

Well, I managed to get my steering rack changed out today, just in time for my tire install/alignment tomorrow morning. Along with the Legacy steering rack with its 16.5:1 ratio (as opposed to the 19:1 ratio of the Outback rack), I also installed Whiteline steering rack bushings and replaced the swaybar endlinks with Impreza GD/GG type Moog parts.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/03/IMG_20150128_201001_zps2gs2kimx-1.jpg

Since I was on a time crunch before sunset, I did not take any pictures of the process, but there are a number of clean/shiny parts underneath now ;)

[Yamazaki]

Looks like I have to do this too now... I want faster steering on the H6 as well. And since I'm guessing that faster steering racks (like the STI) don't fit without a LOT of trouble, I'll be happy with the Legacy one.

[rkrenicki]

The STI one would work, but the splines are different so you need to chop up two steering couplers and weld them together. Seems like a whole lot of work for only a relatively small increase from 16.5:1 to 15:1.

A remaned 05 rack is also $385 plus the cost of the knuckles and welding. The Legacy rack was only $250 and needed no extra parts.

[Yamazaki]

Okay, you sold me on it.

[rkrenicki]

So, I had a combined front toe of almost -5! It was downright scary to drive to the shop this morning, but it is very happy now with its new alignment and winter tires. Just in time for me to take them off the car, and put the XV wheels back on!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/03/9F613FB56AA54F698D4B554237C0CCB3_zpsbtbe-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

I swapped the noble2's and XV wheels back on, so I snapped a picture of them with the General Altimax Arctics on the outback wheels.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/03/DD8EAF1712904033B927F0B4EBB0F335_zpslduw-1.jpg (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/rkrenickisli/media/Car%20Galleries/2004%20BEE/DD8EAF17-1290-4033-B927-F0B4EBB0F335_zpslduwqquw.jpg.html)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rkrenicki]

On my way to a business trip in Pennsylvania last week, I hit a pothole (*gasp* Pennsylvania has potholes?!?) which caused a significant shake at speed. I pulled over and didnt see anything obviously wrong, so I sort of assumed that I threw a wheel weight.

After I got home, I pulled the two wheels on the passenger side off to swap them around, assuming that the thrown weight was on the front, and I found this.

Front wheel:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/04/C6C3D77D583641E388C0F50A7990F6E9_zpsy0uz-1.jpg

Rear wheel:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/04/FBE9471C37254EBFA4E510CC580147B0_zpsm0hv-1.jpg

... So, now I need to find a place to fix these wheels. Of course, Pennsylvania has a law that expressly prohibits them from having to pay for wheel/car damage from road defects, so I am stuck footing the bill on this.

Luckily, both of these wheels are still holding air, they are just a bit out of round and cause the car to shake a bit above 50mph.. but I guess I need to go put the winter wheels back on the car.

[geckoboy86]

Sorry for my state's shitty roads.

[98legwag]

Yup. PA might have the worst roads I have ever encountered.

[rkrenicki]

Well, my car is now grounded for a few days as I am getting the bushings pressed out from the front control arms.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/04/F28F7F8F011E4EAC95FCF12447B9B706_zpsbpzq-1.jpg

Up on stands until I get them back.. Hopefully my landlord does not complain about the car on stands...

[peugoby]

PA has terrible roads, especially inside of Philly. Feels like driving in a bombed out 3rd world country. Pittsburgh is definitely better imo in terms of road quality. Sorry about your wheels.

[rkrenicki]

Thank you, Subafreak for getting these bushings pressed out for me today. My car gets off the stands tonight, as long as the weather holds out.. I am not installing control arms in the rain ;)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/AEFB83FC499F488FB368DD766C877FCA_zpssml7-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

The car is back on the ground, but I need to find a 22mm box wrench to tighten up the nut on the rear LCA bushings so my rattles will go away. Otherwise, it all seems pretty good!

Whiteline goodness:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/49f114faa4154418b9961e67007b4740_zpsknxu-1.jpg

While I was in there, I regreased my swaybar bushings as I had some extra moly grease with the bushings, but I managed to snap one of the bolts during the reinstall.. so I need to dig out a replacement bolt for that too. Oh well.

[dodik]

Sucks about the wheels, having that happen a number of times to me my advice is find new wheels or run these on the back. Proper repair is gonna be close to 150 per wheel if not more and truthfully I haven't had luck with anyone actually doing proper job, bending lip back is easy but truing the wheel is not, if its just the lip then maybe fix them but if the wheel is oval scrap them.

[rougeben83]

Yeah, they also say that once a wheel is bent, the likelihood of it bending again after the repair is higher...likely because most time they have to heat the rim during the repair. Check the tire pressures too, its harder to spot low-air in low-profile wheels. Lower tire pressures increases the chance of a bent rim.

[rkrenicki]

Well, there is a junkyard relatively close to me that has some XV wheels for about $150 each. I might just get those instead of repairing these, especially if the cost is going to be so similar.

[rougeben83]

If youre willing to make the drive,I've used a really good place in Queens in the past - they charge about $65-80 to fix a bent rim. Its easier to fix damage on the inside barrel vs. the face, as well.

[rkrenicki]

I have been wanting to modify my dash harness for a while to merge in all of my wiring mods and complete a few things on my mental "to-do list", but I wanted to mod a donor harness instead of the one in my car as it was going to take me a while to make it all work nicely. It took me quite a while, but I finally found a Non-VDC 03/04 H6 car at the yard, so its harness is now mine.

I first hacked out the Onstar crap. I had done this to my existing harness, but I only cut it back, instead of outright removing all the wiring.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/0547D47E4E1B4BFD9AACE877FBFCA30C_zpsca9s-1.jpg

Next, I started on the cluster wiring. My goal is to have a D-type cluster plug-and-play here.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/AD67C3201BAE426BA2AE896C86EFA5CD_zpsievx-1.jpg

I had to extend a few wires to reach their new locations, add a few power wires, and also pre-wired in Sportshift and power/hold. I had forgotten how many duplicate wire colors there were, so I made sure to tag a few as I went along.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/FB5A51FE79A74A9B998F771968E137BB_zps2op8-1.jpg

Drivers side is 90% done here. Cluster wiring is complete, I also merged in the headlight leveler switch from a D-type JDM harness. I am now working on the Fog light switch relocation down to the center stack. Once that is complete, I can tape this harness up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/13E4A0F8DBBF4B9CB8A63B1DB9EEDB00_zpseufy-1.jpg

[dodik]

make sure to use proper harness tape, otherwise it will become a sticky mess

[rkrenicki]

make sure to use proper harness tape, otherwise it will become a sticky mess

Part of me really does not care that much about it, as I should "never" have to touch it again... but I am using some low-residue tape

[thesavo]

You may benefit for from spiral wrap than harness tape. Don't get me wrong. I love using harness tape when putting it all back together.

[rkrenicki]

You may benefit for from spiral wrap than harness tape. Don't get me wrong. I love using harness tape when putting it all back together.

I hate working with spiral wrap, it is obnoxious to work with, and the fact that the overall diameter of the loom changes quite drastically in some places means that I would be changing wraps fairly often. But, with all of the vinyl sheathing that Subaru put in originally, I am happy with the results thus far.

That being said, I keep finding little differences between the 2003 and 2004 harnesses.. I have spent the better part of the day double checking every connector against the 2003 and 2004 FSMs to see what is different. I have everything checked at this point except for the SMJ and i53.. Some of the changes I can understand, but why would they decide to move the right front speaker wiring from i20 to i40? I am not looking forward to checking the SMJ, but it needs to be done before I power anything up with this..

[thesavo]

If only subaru consolidated all the connector pinouts like they're done in helms manuals. I hate scanning through all the pages that contain circuits for a certain connector just verify all the pins.


Perhaps they made the change because sharing the connector with the blower resistor caused a "hum" in the speakers

[rkrenicki]

So, after some deliberation and discovering that wheels from Japan are not nearly as expensive as I thought... I decided to pick up some new-to-me wheels.

Fresh off the Fedex truck from Upgarage in Kanagawa, Japan:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/8842759890DA4276AA14019EEA6ED6C8_zpsesby-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/05/ECFB7B2811624B329C240C0E8CA90DCB_zpsnqdv-1.jpg

There are some marks and knicks in the paint, but they were only $60 for the whole set of 4 plus another $220 for shipping to my door. These ended up costing me less for the whole set, than it would have cost to fix the two XV wheels.. or even less than one XV wheel was brand new.

[86bratman]

Holy shit, that's cheap. I've been debating checking shipping charges for a few things on UG.

[98legwag]

Holy shit, that's cheap. I've been debating checking shipping charges for a few things on UG.

I bought something from them using http://www.croooober.com/. Shipping was fair. They use Fed Ex for shipping to the US.

[soba noodle]

I am so glad those XV wheels are gone, sorry :D

Love the wheels, will complement your project nicely!

[MRLancaster]

Great find!!!!

[Hinyo]

Im a bit jelous. Want to find a set myself.. guess I'll start looking

[WPEC]

speechless , nice grab JDM goodies.

[98legwag]

Im a bit jelous. Want to find a set myself.. guess I'll start looking

Using Croooober's site is actually quite easy when you switch it to English.

[KNaph]

Yeah buying parts from Japan is really reasonable. I've never used croooober before but I bought my wheels through buyee and it was super easy. 4 day shipping was about $400 for me but I was forced into that option.

[rkrenicki]

Yeah buying parts from Japan is really reasonable. I've never used croooober before but I bought my wheels through buyee and it was super easy. 4 day shipping was about $400 for me but I was forced into that option.

Oh, I am not a stranger to ordering from Japan, as this thread can attest to... But I was downright shocked at the very low price for shipping on something so heavy. Croooober/Upgarage has some serious shipping discounts indeed.

I have never used Buyee, as I have not heard great things about them. I use another proxy for my YJ needs.

[KNaph]

Oh that's not what I meant at all haha. I was super shocked at the prices from Japan. My wheels were super cheap for being relatively rare like they are. Buyee kinda forced me into paying for 3 day shipping but $350 isn't too bad for sending two 40 pound packages and getting them at my door in 3 days. I check YAJ religiously now haha.

[rkrenicki]

Today is an exciting day, albeit a little sad.. The sad part is, my XV wheels are officially off the car and had the tires removed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/06/CBBA991929AE46B799C95E03088DD586_zps7dwp-1.jpg

The exciting bit is that the JDM wheels are on! Something about these make the whole wheel look so much smaller for some reason. I know they are the same size, but perhaps all of the open-ness of the spokes make it look very different.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/06/cb6eb6023a0d44f4b47e173917bf42d9_zpsmoyl-1.jpg

[98legwag]

I like it. Did you change the suspension again? The wheel gap at the front looks huge.

[rkrenicki]

I like it. Did you change the suspension again? The wheel gap at the front looks huge.

That was my thought too... but no, the suspension hasn't changed in quite a while. Still the Legacy struts with Outback springs.

Perhaps the black wheel with the black tire made it all blend together with the gap..

[Lancaster6]

Looks great, I've always liked those wheels. You're right though...they certainly do accentuate the wheel gap but their JDM fanciness is worth it.

[Dead91silvia]

Ehh.. miss the XV wheels. Still a good deal though.

[r3v_v3ng3]

You always find good stuff from japan. Maybe one day I'll grab the rear glass with wiper lol

[Dead91silvia]

You always find good stuff from japan. Maybe one day I'll grab the rear glass with wiper lol

We think along the same lines.. haha

[rkrenicki]

Well... It has been a while since I have posted in here.

I have not done a single thing to the car, other than I am now driving it daily since I parked my work truck at the office. It has developed a heat shield rattle that I need to take care of, and I am still toying around with getting parts repainted, but otherwise just business as usual.

[rkrenicki]

My car started to sputter/stumble at cruising speeds, and I narrowed it down to the Throttle Position Sensor. I received a new one today, stuck it on the car.. and it works very well now. Easy fix (if a bit expensive for a simple potentiometer..)

[rkrenicki]

I keep forgetting how much better the ride is on 55 profile tires than 45 profile tires.. I think I may get a different size tire next time I need three seasons. Perhaps a 205/50R17..

In related news, I put my winter wheels on the other day in anticipation of winter.. whenever it decides to rear its head, as it has been unseasonably warm here lately.

I also have some sort of suspension rattle that is forming in the right rear corner. I need to track that one down.

[rkrenicki]

Not much to report as of late, but today marks the 4th year of ownership on this car. She has come a very long way since 2012, and while I may not be modifying her anymore.. she is still just as faithful and reliable as the first day I drove her..

[rkrenicki]

The front passenger side caliper seems to be sticking/seized.. It has developed a very strong shimmy in the steering wheel accompanied by a strong brake burning smell.

Since both sets of my active wheel sets support them, I am going to put GC8 4 Pot calipers back on. I ordered a set today, and the car is effectively "grounded" until they come in and get swapped on.

That does unfortunately mean that both of my cars no longer fit the XV wheels.. so, I guess I am going to try to sell them off. If I can at least recoup the cost of the new front brakes, I will be happy.

This also means that the Blitzen is now my primary car until this gets sorted out.

[Dead91silvia]

The XV wheels wont clear red 4 pots? Interesting...

[rkrenicki]

The XV wheels wont clear red 4 pots? Interesting...
Nope, the overall diameter is good, but the shape of the spokes are a straight line from the center hub to the outer rim. They would need about a 10mm spacer to clear.

I also ordered all new Stoptech pads and Centric premium "E-coated" rotors for front and back.. I figure if I am going to do one set of brakes, I might as well get rid of the rusty ones in the rear too.

[Dead91silvia]

Well thats a bummer, good to know though. I would actually be interested in the wheels for my girls car, but the shipping would be a killer. :P

[rkrenicki]

Well thats a bummer, good to know though. I would actually be interested in the wheels for my girls car, but the shipping would be a killer. :P

Well, heck.. if you end up driving to the MD meet... I could bring them with me..

[98legwag]

Nope, the overall diameter is good, but the shape of the spokes are a straight line from the center hub to the outer rim. They would need about a 10mm spacer to clear.

I also ordered all new Stoptech pads and Centric premium "E-coated" rotors for front and back.. I figure if I am going to do one set of brakes, I might as well get rid of the rusty ones in the rear too.

I have Stoptech pads on my wagon. The stopping power is nice. But they make a good bit of dust. There is a noticeable amount after the driving the car a few times after cleaning the wheels.

[rkrenicki]

I have Stoptech pads on my wagon. The stopping power is nice. But they make a good bit of dust. There is a noticeable amount after the driving the car a few times after cleaning the wheels.

I had heard that, but I figured I would give them a try. I was wrong about what ones I ended up ordering.. The fronts are the Stoptech performance, but the rears are Centric Ceramic.

[Dead91silvia]

Well, heck.. if you end up driving to the MD meet... I could bring them with me..

Dont hold your breath on that one... haha...

[rkrenicki]

So, the GC8 calipers I bought ended up being more seized than the ones on the car.. I cant even compress them to put in new pads. so.. back to the eBay seller for those.

I did find a set of Cardone remanufactured 06-07 WRX calipers for sale, that even after the core charges ended up being $10 less than the GC8s that I am returning.. The only problem is, they are backordered and won't be here for at least 2 weeks. I may do the rear brakes in the meantime, since the rotors and pads are all here... but the Blitzen is going to be my daily for a little while longer, it seems.

[Dead91silvia]

Why dont you go to Subaru for those calipers new? They are actually some what reasonable in price.

[rkrenicki]

The Cardone remaned (with the core charge) was about $265 shipped for both, where new they would be $250+ each.

[rougeben83]

The Cardone remaned (with the core charge) was about $265 shipped for both, where new they would be $250+ each.

You wanna upgrade to some LGT front brakes? I have the calipers with stoptech pads, one side needs to be rebuild though :lol:

[rkrenicki]

I appreciate the offer rougeben83, but I have some WRX 4Pots on order.

In somewhat related news, I have a very exciting package on the way for this car. Unfortunately I will not see it for about 2 months. I am keeping its contents under wraps for now, but I am very anxious to receive it.. that is for sure.

[Muse]

Oooh, I know! I know! and it's pretty nifty. But my lips, too, are sealed.

[rkrenicki]

Well.. 2 months turned into 3 days. These ended up being too large for SEA shipping, so I had to use EMS.. Even then, they were heavy enough that they needed to be shipped separately. One of them showed up today..

S401 trailing arms with everything attached. 2 pot Brembos, S401 backing plates, 190mm parking brake, STI stainless lines, and 316mmx20mm 5x100 rotors.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/A1E2DBDDEE7C4D6EA027CC89123BEA56-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/1DA86C002DAF4318B0A976D20DEC43D5-1.jpg

Close of of caliper
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/07725CB465F34B91AFD598515FFDEAA5-1.jpg

Sanity check for wheel clearance. I never really doubted it, but the 17s clear just fine.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/2E276041BBBD4F17BE30D247904A2573-1.jpg

I also have a set of STI catalog rear lateral links which I have had for months, but apparently never took a picture of. They will go on at the same time.

I am really happy that I stumbled across these. They just need a bit of a clean up, and to straighten out the top and bottom of the backing plate that bent in shipping.

[foohfooh]

Great! I had no idea 17 's like that cleared brembos. What jdm car did those come off of again? I swear they were a usdm option for early wrx's

[rkrenicki]

Well.. they clear the REAR brembos.. I doubt they would clear the much larger fronts. The do clear the FHI/Sumitomo 4-pots, which I will be running in the front, so I am okay..

I do need to check my 2004-2005 16" Outback H6 wheels that I use for winters.. they clear the 4 pots, so I think I am good.. but I will find out when I get one off the car to try.

These wheels are just normal 3rd gen Japanese (sedan?) wheels, but they were also available as a catalog option for Imprezas here for a while.

[soba noodle]

Those are BE/BH rev.D turbo rims. No way the fronts will clear Brembos. 4 pots are fine.

[rkrenicki]

I am positive this style of wheel was also on earlier models, but I cannot remember which ones off the top of my head. I will have to check the parts book later on.

That being said, the 16" Outback wheels sort of clear the calipers. It is EXTREMELY close, and the barrel mounted wheel weights are in the way. I guess I will need to get some 17" wheels for winters next year, and these will be relegated to my wifes Corolla.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/ECEBAA424B624B0D9D778C19B154429F-1.jpg

I have had a set of Whiteline trailing arm bushings sitting on a shelf for quite some time, well over a year now. I figured if I am going to change out the arms, I might as well use the new bushings, so I went to work today on getting them installed.
I cut out the rubber with a sawzall (boy did that stink)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/EE83BAFA081349A6B7D96AEAE7443FAC-1.jpg

And made two cuts across the ring. The bushing popped right out afterwards.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/D82C915ECF364BC0A724B88818A33126_1-1.jpg

New poly bushing goodness installed:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/0AB17D5ACF024EEF93B5F966821324F0-1.jpg

The pile of parts to install in the rear end:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/aeac6302b92540948a6a2cc2a10dac12-1.jpg

[soba noodle]

Do not know about USDM business, but JDM-wise those rims only came on rev.D. Nothing else.

[rkrenicki]

Ah, you are right. I am thinking of the earlier RS/RSB wheels which are similar, but not the same... either way..

1 sheared bolt, seized axle in the hub, and a seized toe adjustment bolt later...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/03/B8250311F3834C248307D3A25D3BDEC1-1.jpg

I havent removed the toe bolt yet, and the other side is just as seized.. I will likely have to cut them both out. I also found out that I am missing the spacers for the STI lateral links, so I am going to have to come up with something to fix that.

[Dead91silvia]

Very cool! I like! Didnt realize the diameter size, they are big suckers!

[Matty2Hotty]

I'm pretty sure everyone has one of those HF floor jacks, mine is already 6 years old definitely paid for itself. Careful on that rear diff, hear plenty of people ripping the old diff bushings(entire rear subframe has to be removed for proper replacement)

[rkrenicki]

Hah, yea that jack has been great. I kind of wish I grabbed the aluminum version, but this one goes higher. The car is up on stands, I just hadn't pulled the jack out yet in that picture.

[rkrenicki]

The drivers side rear setup is "complete." All installed, but needs all of the suspension bolts to be tightened up once everything is done.. I got it together enough so that I can get the car turned around to work on the other side. I did not take a picture of it yet, but I will once I get this other one at least partially on. I also changed the muffler today, as the bypass valve was rattling around. Luckily it has a warranty, so I was able to get it replaced for free.

My front calipers will also be here tomorrow, so my goal right now is to have all of the brakes done and be driving the car again by the end of the weekend.

[rougeben83]

I wonder what your brake bias is going to be...

[rkrenicki]

A few people have asked me this question, so I dug up a brake calculator to come up with numbers. The 2 pot brembo has similar pad surface area to the Sumitomo 2 pot which normally gets paired with the 4 pots going up front. The pistons are actually smaller (36mm vs 38.1mm).

Going from OEM Legacy 2000-2004 brakes to Subaru 4 pots with "Performance Pads" will increase front brake torque by 18.20%
Going from "H6" Legacy 2000-2004 brakes to 2004 STI with "Performance Pads" will increase rear brake torque by 14.67%

That gives me a 3.53% forward brake bias from stock balance.

[rkrenicki]

Brakes are all installed. I ran out of brake fluid when I was bleeding them all out, so I need to pick up some more and finish the job this weekend.

Brandy new everything up front: calipers, hardware, rotors, pads.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/48AC388A4C2C48E09C5DF011C0522F4E-1.jpg

Front all buttoned up:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/A8A5FB91390B44A58925D932FCFB4C76-1.jpg

Rear all buttoned up:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/9DB78B8525AD46E3A608695BE5906971-1.jpg

STI Lateral links (I havent changed out the struts/shocks yet.. that will be this weekend)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/C89B4FF0696048C08856D1BA4A202B69-1.jpg

[soba noodle]

With all honesty I'd rather have a complete set of FHI calipers front/rear or a full Brembo set-up.

[rkrenicki]

I would rather Brembos all around as well, but I do not want to have to ditch every wheel I have to make them fit. Perhaps at some future point, but for right now.. this will work.

[rkrenicki]

The struts and shocks have been swapped out, back on to S401 springs and Bilsteins. I also changed out the front swaybar. I took out the whiteline bar and installed a 19mm front sway from a 2nd gen legacy, which is 1mm smaller than stock, and 3mm smaller than the whiteline bar. This is the same size bar as the S401 comes with stock, but in its non-turbo form.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/E1C7D43221674A00AACF2BD812464C8E-1.jpg

I took the car out for a spin, and it handles well for not having an alignment. It is not at all harsh but communicative, very close to the actual S401 but it will never be exact. I am quite happy with the results, and I can't wait to have it aligned.

[98legwag]

I find it odd to back to a smaller FSB. When I had the upgraded rear and stock front on my 3.0R and my 2nd gen it felt like there was still a lot of body roll and the cars would nose dive into corners. With the bigger fsb it feels like the inputs are more immediate and the car has much better grip in the front. They both still corner and handle well. I guess that is just my personal preference.

[Muse]

I actually went down to an 18mm front bar on my car. I'm noticing that the car's fighting understeer harder on long curves, like onramps. The transition form straight to turn feels about the same, but in the turn, it feels more stable.

[rkrenicki]

I find it odd to back to a smaller FSB. When I had the upgraded rear and stock front on my 3.0R and my 2nd gen it felt like there was still a lot of body roll and the cars would nose dive into corners. With the bigger fsb it feels like the inputs are more immediate and the car has much better grip in the front. They both still corner and handle well. I guess that is just my personal preference.

My understanding is that it has to do with the stiffer springs, and the sway bar balance between front and rear. STI spent a lot of time and money tuning the suspension of the S401, so there must be a very excellent reason for this specific setup.

I went to the alignment shop this morning since I replaced the lateral links and toe bolts in the rear, figuring that just the back would be off.. but it turns out that the front was way off too. I do not know how that happened, but it has been corrected.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/46C61A86E13E4C608536DAE636109BB2_1-1.jpg

The rear camber is non-adjustable, so I asked the guy to bring the front in within 1 degree of the rear. I felt like such a stance kid asking him to dial in negative camber. I must say, this car rides like a dream now. It is too bad that it is really slushy out today, otherwise I would give it a real handling test.. but first impressions are extremely positive.

[Muse]

I really hope the weather's nice tomorrow. Accuweather's calling for mostly sunny in your area, but who knows.

[98legwag]

My understanding is that it has to do with the stiffer springs, and the sway bar balance between front and rear. STI spent a lot of time and money tuning the suspension of the S401, so there must be a very excellent reason for this specific setup.

Yeah, that makes sense. I would not say either of my cars have that stiff of a spring. Stock 02 wrx springs on the wagon and stock springs (same as Spec B) on the 3.0R.

[rkrenicki]

New photo day! Some of just this car, some of both together..

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMG_2066-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMG_2065-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMG_2068-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/10/IMG_2071-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2061-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2058-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2055-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2048-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2044-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2041-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2036-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2030-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/IMG_2027-1.jpg

The light really wasnt working in my favor today, but I think they came out pretty well.

[Muse]

Here's my two cents from the day.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/DSC_0060_zpsmiecdnnx-1.jpg (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/SubaMuse/media/DSC_0060_zpsmiecdnnx.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/DSC_0069_zpsopjlgxzn-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/DSC_0088_zpsw6tiq5sj-1.jpg (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/SubaMuse/media/DSC_0088_zpsw6tiq5sj.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/DSC_0100_zpsxpyf23ys-1.jpg (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/SubaMuse/media/DSC_0100_zpsxpyf23ys.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/DSC_0107_zpsld8czvud-1.jpg (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/SubaMuse/media/DSC_0107_zpsld8czvud.jpg.html)

[rkrenicki]

Got your nose!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/F60DBAC5BFD94DEA95B701C464E7F9C4-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

So, there has been some fresh paint slapped on the car. The silver blitzen spoiler was the wrong color, and had some bad oxidation and chips in the clear coat. I had a spare spoiler that was in great shape, but was blue. I had it painted the correct color at the dealer, and sold the "old" oxidized spoiler to someone who is going to have it repainted. I do not have any decent pictures of the oxidation, as I generally avoided taking pictures of it.

New shiny spoiler:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/42947A5E751D45BAB8158DC88DD21CFD-1.jpg

In other related news...

So I had a little minor accident with the car today. I "kissed" the back bumper of the person infront of me who decided they didnt want to pull into traffic after all. Luckily, the damage is purely superficial. My bumper is not cracked or malformed in any way, but the paint is damaged and is coming off in chunks. All of the "cracks" in the below picture are only paint-deep. The other car was not really damaged either, only some scratches and some frayed nerves.

I was going to get this bumper repainted at some point anyways, so this just gives me more of a reason to do it sooner.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/12/IMG_20131221_145037_zpsnxj0yo1f-1.jpg

Apparently, my definition of "sooner" was 2 1/2 years later.. My biggest deciding factor was seeing things like this in my photo shoots..
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/D452A49A69F1432AA3D6CD9B2B12E10E-1.jpg

I went and had the bumper resprayed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/07B9EEF5F7DB4C39BA4B7CA616CE7DFB-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/3AC87C739F8C402587E52ECA99358D9B-1.jpg

I am not quite as impressed on the job this time around, but it is still very good. Then again, the bumper was in significantly worse shape as compared to the spoiler.

That only leaves the hood in need of a repaint. and the fenders if I decide to replace them. I need to let my bank card rest a little bit before I jump into either of those at this point.

[rkrenicki]

I finally finished the brakes on this car. I ordered new pads and rotors for the rear and realized that there are two bleed nipples on each of the rear calipers. Now that they are properly bled and have Stoptech performance pads, the car stops on a dime.

One little bit of information that I am going to share for posterity...

So, as anyone who has changed a rotor or rear caliper bracket on a 2nd-4th gen knows.. the lower caliper bracket bolt is in an inconvenient place. Luckily... Subaru, in their infinite wisdom, cast a hole in the trailing arm for you to get a ratchet in there. This hole was very smart.. however it does not help anyone who has.. shall we say.. "Non-standard" brakes.

Here is a picture of said hole, and as you can see there is a notable lack of a bolt head. If you look very carefully, you can just sort of see the edge of the bolt head in the upper right of the hole.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/2e7b7f2e3bbf408f89889ef36b7a37e8-1.jpg

Okay, so I guess I need to go from the side, but there is a lip around the edge of the backing plate that prevents a box end wrench from working.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/12B7643C7026468F914F5CC8F48870CF-1.jpg

That means that I must have an offset wrench, which I did not have. A quick run to Harbor Freight later, I managed to get the proper tool and changed out the rotors and pads.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/62e5a48c26ff4079867f283924585153-1.jpg

After I was all done, I was thinking about what I might have been missing. After a little thinking.. Spare Tire! The spare that came with the car does not clear the brakes at all. If I ended up with a flat, I would be screwed. Some internet searches later, I find out that the S401 and 2004 STI have a 17x4 spare. There are a couple of versions of it, basically depending on the number of venting holes (if any). I did a little hunting, and I tracked down a 17" spare from a 2009 Impreza for $20, which clears quite nicely.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/5DE4A05DF88B4C32BCB4944103DEB04A-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2016/04/C56204BA6F504AF298392519D307B56D-1.jpg

I also found a couple of bolts that I didnt tighten down fully in the rear, and now that those are fixed.. the car is handing like a dream. I couldn't be any happier right now.

[Muse]

Wasn't the S401's spare yellow? Just saying... you may wanna grab a can of paint.